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Tag Archives: Blonde hair

Darker side of life! trying a darker hair colour or shade!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 LIGHT TO DARK shades and tone:

Can you go from blonde hair to Darker shade. Can it look good? Will it work ? yes yes yes! In many cases it can make your own natural colouring come alive. Your eyes look brighter . Your skin tone takes on a whole new look. When you want to go lighter with a little patients  it can be done without to much effort.

[See posting on going from solid to lighter tones].

If you’re are  like so many. Not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Another key advantage is how easy it is to lift out when you want to start going lighter or brighter.

                          The big question Should I go Darker?  Why not ?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour. Even with multiple shades as below if you wanted to go darker could you? The answer is yes .A Demi formulation of a level 5 or darker would give you depth and tone but with multiple shades due to the starting tonal base shades.

                                    Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:  Transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker do some research maybe try on a darker wig hold some darker shades up to your face see how it works with eye colour and skin tone.

In many case a Demi colour application will last longer than a permanent hair colour due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to. the above is a perfect example of grown out lighter shade that could so easily go darker with a Demi application.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. As soon as you use a formulation to lift the hair warmth will come into play!!!

The above looks in some ways far to dark and solid but when going from light to dark the hair will tend to take the colour as a very solid look but within a couple of washes tone will start to shine through! remember hair that has been previously pre lightened will not hold colour as much as no lifted hair!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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Hair: Lift deposit tint and tone!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

long blonde healthy natural

This is such a huge topic it can and will open up many. Different application, formulation, situations. I will try to cover as  much a s is possible in one Article.

I think before we start to look at the various colour options available to us. We have to take a look at and understand the process of lift deposit and hair pigmentation. The law’s of colour. The colour wheel. How to control the unwanted tones exposed in the lifting process.

Whether doing all over lift with a Bleach De-colouriser or using High Lift Blonde permanent colour for all all over colour techniques.  One will encounter unwanted pigment in the form of warmth. The key to controlling this is to understanding the colour wheel, tones needed to control the exposed pigment.

The same will apply if doing a High lighted effect requiring lift and deposit.

Let’s look at lift and lightening

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on for long periods or if the lifting action is kept going. This action would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the lifting action  of removing pigment going.

Remember the Colour wheel:

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade! So consider this when making choices regarding lifting pigment and tone.

So to Primary colour. Secondary colour . Tertiary colour as seen on the colour wheel.

These being Primary.

Red.Blue.Yellow

Secondary.

Orange.Green. Violet.

Tertiary

Yellow/green Yellow/orange Yellow/red   Red/orange Red/Violet Blue /violet Blue/green .

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel learn to trust it.

Level 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

At the top of the coloured pie section

10=yellow

9=yellow orange

8= orange

7=red orange

6= Red

And so on down the chart of natural levels 5.4.3.1

 Lets use an example:

working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? Is it possible to get there? Lets see.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

The Relationship between. Natural hair colour . Hydrogen peroxide. Permanent colour is a complex one. When lifting hair we have to take so many variations into account if we are going to achieve the desired colour and tone.

This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour, there are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost. The consultation our time to gain as much information and history as possible a time for some honest and frank questions.

YOUR TIME TO SHINE

Before we can consider our way forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of the head. Assess Natural level. Percentage of Grey if any. Discuss goals and targets desired colour and tone Are they realistic? Are they achievable?

It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour. This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.

The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results.

We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential.

If in doubt do a strand test.

what makes it challenging

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.

10 volume or 3% Peroxide:

In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system,

Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken. Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

FACT:  Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction, with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

               Natures Colour is around us all the time we just have to take the time to take it in!

Take the time to understand and trust the colour wheel, make choices and decision based on. skill, knowledge, not on guess work and ego.

Note:  Not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

More to follow Mike B2MR

for all those home hair colour lovers and experts check this out!!

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/6245090/5_reasons_not_to_color_your_own_hair.html?cat=69

 
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Posted by on August 10, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Blonde hair colouring and Highlights:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 


                           Badly done Blonde hair: WHY?

Why is it that with so many wonderfully talented stylist’s. So many Salons’. So many products both for professional use and indeed the much promoted over the counter wonder hair colours. The question is. Why is there much poorly done over processed badly coloured Blonde hair wondering our streets? What is going on? What is going wrong? Is it our our client are to accepting of looks and standards? I we dropped our standards? Or is bad hair the acceptable norm?

I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair. Really badly done highlights and streaks. An example of this can come in many forms but none are a pretty sight ! They certainly do nothing as a walking advertisement for either our industry or any given salon and or stylist.

 

When things go wrong hot bright roots not left down full hair shaft.

Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights and  lowlights that have been done by bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by. Over processing. Over lifting. lack of porosity in the hair. What was going through the head of a stylist who they attempts to take previously coloured dark hair lighter resulting in Yellow Blonde roots and dark ends!

In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly why? because of over processing lack condition so the hair lacks natural moisture.

Patchy streaks dull blonde. Caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer. Then selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.

Of corse not all of this is caused by stylist’s in the salon.A considerable amount is home done But none should come from the salon.

 

                     Over processed Blonde out of condition no tone.

All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. As we have covered in previous articles  everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair’s natural colour.Our primary colours. Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

These two shots above and below show that with knowledge patients and skill anything is possible.In this instance we are managed to create a Blonde healthy tone with texture and dimension.

It’s creating a blonde utilising what we had to start with. By adding shade and tone.

 

                         colour corrected with highlights and low lights.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry the pigments you have exposed through the lifting process. For lets face it colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.

Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.

 

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base.

So if your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige? It’s all about the balance of tone corrective Toner and always Condition.

 

                                   Condition and Tone both key.

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 using 40 volume peroxide. This degree of lift is not possible! Why? Because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer. Or are skilled enough to know how to manipulate both colour and pigment in formulations? Yes there are ways  I could share with you but hard to just write down warrants explanation. Let me know if your interested.

This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots!

Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation. Look. Touch. Question. But remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are   using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

                                    blonde high lights low lights

Herbal. Ammonia free. Organic. Natural. No lift, No peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!!  Then ask How can this be ? What no Alkaline! Maybe it’s hidden disguised.  Get all the information you can. Be the best you can. Understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide? Or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider. What it really attainable with regard to tone and look.

 

Good luck Mike B2MR

Want more colour information  contact me we can chat. about your colour issues and requirements.

 
Comments Off on Blonde hair colouring and Highlights:

Posted by on June 27, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair and salon topic’s upcoming week


A look at Blonde hair highlights introducing more pigment and low lights,section and weave.
A look at a successful home business model a journey. working on both posting Tuesday.

 
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Posted by on May 29, 2011 in Beauty hair salon

 

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