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Tag Archives: Blonde

Full head bleaching and tone.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s    http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

                                lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works. Hair Lighteners  and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting ability is dictated by strength of hydrogen peroxide and timing formulation. 

Lotions Oil -Gel: 

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/scalp during the lightening process.Most powder bleaches are not recommended for direct scalp application they may cause reaction an for burning or irritation {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide. { Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented  darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment little or no peroxide is required.Designed to neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed in the lifting process.Deposit only no lift when using a toner in some cases low volume of peroxide may be required to activate the colour molecule. When toning one should always stay with it as it continues it’s neutralisation and despot until rinsed off.The should be considered as a from of colour correction.

                                    High lift Blonde series:

All these shades are toners:

B indicates Beige = Green Orange Base will neutralise pale yellow.

G indicates Gold =yellow orange base for warmth and tone.

V indicates  Violet= red blue base with neutralise  yellow or yellow pale orange

A indicates   Ash =blue  yellow green  will neutralise  Orange orange yellow

Above classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold. What might you use here?

To beige this look out on would use a violet toner worked in for a few minutes it would restore balance getting rid of unwanted warmth .again there is no exact time stay with it do not leave alone for any period. you may end up with  sludge tone!!!

I found a link for this skin test sight happy to share as i think skin testing is so important.

http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

                                                         Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin. Colour start is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon. Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

With a little patient a good consultation and some formulation planning a great shade of bleached an droned hair can be achieved without undue stress and or damage.

Mike B2MR

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Blonde issues and thoughts


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Time to move on lets look at Blonde hair colouring issues :

Lets start with a case study of Highlights and low lights  [lift and deposit] This in it self can create many issues both from a technical stance and from a client stylist relationship point of view. Many years of experience have shown me that when a client is unhappy with her blonde hair the maintenance required and yes the cost things can start to go down hill on the communication front.

Let me introduce to you our client Emily and our Stylist Ted.

Emily has long hair and is a natural level 6 [mouse/rat] she loves being blonde but over time feels that she has lost the highlighted look that she so loved and that the maintenance and cost is starting to become an issue an condition is starting to be a worry!

The consultation: Ted sit down with Emily and off the bat say’s you have no idea how many young women like your self i have this conversation with. Just how common place this issue is. But don’t worry it’s fixable today and maintainable for the future. Oh really says Emily that is so good to hear I was worried that was future was turning very dark! Does this look ring any bells with you as a stylist? Back with. Ted he begins to explain that over time sadly the highlighted look can get lost it’s a mixture of a few factors, some responsibility for this falls with you the client some with us stylist’s. Yes he say’s not perfect just trying to be! They both laugh another good sign.

Firstly says Ted. I agree that Blonde works well for you you have the perfect natural base shade the problem is over time you and your stylist have allowed your hair to get to blonde. It has lost any any depth and tone and just become a bleached highlighted look.You see say’s Ted the lighter we allow you hair to the quicker the roots will appear. It’s not intentionally done it creeps up. But it’s my opinion that we as stylist’s owe it you as our clients to be honest and some times draw the line when it comes to letting you go blonder and blonder!  Ted goes on to say. We have to explain to you what we think is best.You may not always listen or like what you hear, but hey you are paying me for my professional advise as well as my skill. Wow say’s Emily that’s a first no one have ever told me all that.

Well here is what we are going to do.

Firstly only Highlight the top half of your head and this will be some highlights to keep you blonde and we will re introduce two other shades.One shade at your natural level and a nice Beige to pull it all together. we will then fill in all the under section of your hair taking it back to your own colour. Ted explains that the darker under section will look more natural and look way better when Emily put her hair up. Emily says sounds great lets do it!

A Formulation for this: 

Roots 1oz [30 grams ] Bleach powder with 2oz [60 grams] 2o Volume peroxide.This will be used on the weaved highlights but only on the roots and with a slight over lap to prevent banding.

Second formulation is two mixtures:

8N with 30 Volume. Why more lift but the pigmentation of the 8N will control the yellow orange we will expose making it a nice beige.1oz 8N  11/2 oz 30 volume peroxide roots only Mid lengths and ends 8B Demi lotion formulation mixing ration 1oz 8B to 2oz Demi lotion developer for mid lengths and ends so we are in effect lifting and depositing at the same time.[ mark your bowls so you don’t mix them up] Final Formulation 6B as a Demi formulation  for deposit only this is also the shade we will run through the under section again no lift just deposit. 2oz 6B 4oz Demi lotion developer enough to do both the low light and go straight in to the under section application. Making full use of your time and not wasting product.

Once all the formulations mixed up Ted sets to work. Oh says Emily you don’t use foil no say’s Ted I like these waxed papers they stay much closer to the roots they don’t slip less pain when i take them out! Oh i like the sound of that says Emily, it’s always painful.Not today says Ted! Once all done the process time will be dependent on the last few Highlights we have put in says Ted. But don’t worry I stared at the front so they will be a little blonder and we will not lift the crown as much. the Darker shade is none progressive so stops once it reached desired colour. So all good be patient no heat but will not be to long. they wait the out come.

Ted checks the progress a couple of times and after 30 Minutes it ready to come off he takes all the papers out and then rinses very quickly holding the highlighted hair away from the darker underneath once it’s all rinsed of colour it’s a normal shampoo and conditioning process.

Remember those dark roots that line of demarcation? All gone and blended in. Now we have a very natural looking Blonde with highlights and low lights to tone it down and control the root issue. Emily say’s she is so happy it’s the best it’s been is such a long time. Ted says leave it as long as possible our goal is to get you coming back every three months. Why are not all hairdresser like you most say 6 weeks are says Ted. Here is the deal you like your hair you tell your friends you and your friends and their friends keep me busy  to the point that i can only see you every three months!Oh says Emily i see  me and my friends keep you busy I hope so says Ted.

Oh and as for the under section check this out! As a form of re colouring and depositing pigment I cannot express enough what a wonderful gentle formulation a Demi application is. It will give even depth and tone without the need for and lift. Its a satin finish that loos so natural. give it a try. I think that as stylists we have so many options choices of technique and products at our disposal, we are truly very lucky. Oh and having great clients helps. We have so many issues that can arise when working with our clients to create that natural blonde look to maintain it.The key is communication and honesty. Our clients will always push to be that little bit blonder it’s up to us as professional to some times to pull the reins in to prevent future issues.

What are these issues, They normal arise from over processing, poor condition, colour fading. longevity of colour lasting, leading to cost issues. Always keep your client on track be open about maintenance issues cost of up keep. Remember your the professional your in control.

As promised some extra views and thoughts on some Blonde hair issues 

I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair,  badly done highlights and streaks examples of this can come in many forms. Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone. In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair.

Patchy streaks dull blonde caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer, then  selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice. All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head. Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base. If your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

                             blonde high lights low lights

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots! Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is    it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation look touch question. but remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

Herbal, Ammonia free, no lift, no peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!! get all the information you can be the best you can understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider.  The above is a perfect balance of high lights and low lights a very natural multi-tonal look.

Well we are having a very varied day and lets be honest the time needed to deal with all these issues is quite considerable. But with all the knowledge we had and all the new knowledge we have we should be coping very well.

enjoy Mike B2MR

 

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New year new look ready for blonde


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

New year perfect time to think Blonde

With the start of the new year, why not consider stepping things up a colour change or just re vamp to brighten than colour !

The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That natural looking bright holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan for that feel good look.

If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look? Some blondes can be subtle honey or golden others well just full on blonde.

What works for you? what shade do you like?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.

Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while. How about from red head to honey blonde!

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.

Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or long fringe or bangs!

Formal up do with lots of colour and tone to create dimension and texture .

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.

Mike B2MR

 

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Red heads and brunettes wanting to go lighter


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I don’t quite remember when the penny really dropped about understanding hair colour. I don’t just mean the application of it . I refer to understanding. Lift. Deposit. Pigment achieving that desired perfect colour and shade. One of the main issues for any natural red head and brunette wanting to go lighter is getting a lighter shade that works with skin tone eye colour. A shade that still looks natural the key is not trying to go to light or kill all the natural pigment off go for a warm or golden blonde not ash! Why? well see below.

A challenge in it self but some natural colours are harder to cope with than others. Depending on what the desired shade is.

Lets take a look at our warm shades Reds, Coppers, Rich brunette.

Lets use a scenario of wanting to go lighter. By that  i suggest a Blonde shade. Most people who want blonde do not want to see. Orange or Yellow.

This create many issues for our natural reds and coppers heads. Lets take a look at what may arise and some option of how to address them.

In so many cases the main thing to consider are? How light  to go? What shade of blonde is achievable? The consultation process is key here before making any application of colour, bleach/decolouriser.

With Red pigment being the hardest to lift and control a realistic vision and a game plan are the key to success.

With a natural bright copper colour [sometimes know as ginger]. A bright copper natural base shade would normally be around a level 7 on any shade chart. So quite light and yet full of those pigment tones red and red orange, yellow. To get to any shade of Blonde we have to lift up to and beyond level 9 and infact 10 and beyond and be able to control pigment exposed.

The issue being. As you manage to lift the red and orange pigment out you then hit the yellow pigment bar. Because of the strong pigment in this hair the yellow pigment will be really intense so mistakes can be made when controlling it with a toner.

I have seen so many natural Bright copper heads with attempts at highlights that can look. Green, dull metallic, drab.

The main reason is choice of toner. In many cases we reach as stylists for a toner with an ash base, but lets think about this ash is blue base toner,  blue and yellow make? Green hence the dull drab tone

Consider using a violet base.Why? Well we have lifted the hair removing all the red pigment. There was hardly any blue to start with. So to find a balance of shade we have to replace the missing pigment red and blue, this equals Violet in some cases maybe a blue violet base could be required.

Its all about considering the pigment you have exposed and what your target is. Its also worth mentioning that one needs to consider skin tone and eye colour when taking a natural copper level into blonde shades will it look good!

The same consideration should be applied to rich brunettes although a little blue pigment on the surface you with be lifting from around a natural level 5 into reds then copper orange, my suggested goal here would be a caramel shade not to blonde it will look dull yellow slightly dirty!

Lift to a pale orange yellow shade. Then tone with a blue violet toner. This will re balance the pigment exposed leaving a really rich caramel highlight.

Again when lifting the hair consider skin tone eye colour. A natural brunette will normally have brown or hazel eye colour so to light will wash out the skin and the eyes will not pop!

The main considerations as stated are. Natural hair level, skin tone, eye colour. A realistic vision of lifted goal level. Will the desired look be flattering? It’s not our goal to dictate but is is to advise,honestly in the consultation process.

Consider the pigment you will be encountering make sure you have thought through what you are doing and what look you want. It’s all about pigment control. Understanding the colour wheel trusting the colour wheel. Yes trusting the laws of colour. Do this and you will not have unwanted tone.

 

Know your products that is the colours you use know how they work what you can expect from them.

If you are lifting hair that has been previously coloured I would suggest consultation strand test. I would suggest working from the ends into the roots when lifting?

Many more issues can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.

 

                                                                 Mike B2MR
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

 
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Posted by on August 25, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Summer time Blonde.Autumn tone down.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Summer perfect time to be Blonde: But?

 

 

Last weeks of summer. The perfect time to consider that blonde look. That sun kissed look we have loved over the summer months whilst enjoying  those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan.

If you have had the need. Have had the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun blonde look?

now we have to consider the autumn and maybe introducing some low lights so those roots don’t get out of hand!

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.

Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style. Focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will maintain you on the road to staying blonde with out over processing and leaving you with some texture and tones in your hair caramel. burnt honey. beige. These can all be added with a Demi formulation so deposit only very little chemistry zero lift on hair that has already been lifted.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

 

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards. consider tones that will work for you over the coming months as the tan fades and the sun gets lower. Think of the trees and the colours of the leaf as autumn takes it’s hold.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

 

 

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it. Try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.

Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

                              A series of different looks and different styles on blonde hair

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

Shades of Blonde with texture:

In the Fall or Autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.

You can still be Blonde with a touch of controlled tone down less root issue more dimension and texture. Have fun

Mike B2MR

 

 

 
Comments Off on Summer time Blonde.Autumn tone down.

Posted by on August 24, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Lets look a some hair lighteners.


Hair Lighteners.  Decolouriser’s Bleach, High lift Blonde Tint.

As a follow on from last posting

Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking on lightening hair. We have to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works, sounds easy and yet it’s so easy to get it wrong.

 

Hair Lighteners come in many forms, they are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser. During this lifting process warmth from the hair’s pigmentation is exposed as it lightens.

How do these products work.

These are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide. When these two elements are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair, the lightening process begins.

Depending on the strength of peroxide plus timing will dictate the amount of lift we can achieve.We must also consider the natural hair level as a starting point.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation or change in consistency whilst mixing.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners. These are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} 

Lifting ability depends on. The strength of hydrogen peroxide and will also be dictated to by timing and the natural starting level. Having a clear goal of whats expected, or you are trying to achieve is also very  important.

Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength’s or Volume 10. 20. 30. 40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications. No higher, always consider the use of heat it’s not always required or advised.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency. They are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process, again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients.

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide. Magnesium silicate,and sodium, quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, of a desired strength or Volume to attain results.

Be advised that if the hair has been coloured with, any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain. It could create a heat reaction this can cause burning so do your home work!

Ask the right questions in the consultation process, if in doubt do a strand test.

When to use lifting products.

A key tool for hair colour correction, but generally they are used when. Other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lighteningas a product often used for blonde high lights, and streaks. Again it is always key to assess. What volume or strength of peroxide to use, often toning will be required after Bleaching. Understanding the lifting process and pigment being exposed is key to success. It’s essential to attain required shade or tone, using the wrong toner can cause problems at the back wash!  Remember yellow does not need, ash it needs violet! yellow and Ash makes green,

  

{Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Mixing:  

Always. Follow Instructions on each given product.

For lotions, gel oils double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for, lotions and lighteners, booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,

{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

 

Hair Lighteners come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair.Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting, Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:             

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

 

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. it has no limits it can remove all pigment form the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

 

What is toner

High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!


All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange   


To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?

To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

 

 

more on this subject to come Mike B2MR    

                                            

 
Comments Off on Lets look a some hair lighteners.

Posted by on August 12, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Dark hair. Brunette to Natural looking Blonde.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

 

 

How do you go from brunette to blonde? 

What are the pit falls things to look out for when going from dark to light shade ? How blonde can you go? What shade should you expect to achieve from a brunette level 4 to5? I raise this questions because skin tone. Eye colour.  play such a key role when switching colour.

Brunette to Blonde can certainly have it’s challenges. Having decided to go lighter the question becomes. How blonde you want to go? You then have to decide on all over colour or highlights? If your hair is Naturally Brunette level 4 to 5 then the lighter you go. The more issues of warmth will come in to the equation.  This warmth will normally present as. Red orange . Orange .Yellow orange. Also roots or regrowth have to be considered.

Brunette natural lifted 4 levels still very warm.

As you lift your hair the pigment it contains is exposed. So as you lift from natural level the first tone you will see is Red. Second level would be Red with orange hue. Third level would be orange. Forth level orange yellow. This amount of lift would normally be about 4 levels. Depending on the level we are staring from we can choose our target level of colour and shade.  With high lift colour and using the pigment it contains to control tone exposed pigment. Any thing lighter than four levels will require Pre-lightening.

Consider what shade you want. Maybe highlights and low lights would give you a lighter but more natural look. Lots to consider.

If very dark hair maybe Asian. Oriental. 1st Nation native or previously coloured then unwanted pigment will be an issue.

 

pre lightened and high lighted

I strongly suggest a professional consultation before embarking on this. It’s not just slap on the shade indicate don the box.

If your hair has been coloured to a Brunette shade and your wanting to go Blonde you really need help you could end up with a hair night mare. Many issues when doing this procedure. Be warned you could end up with yellow roots orange mid lengths and red ends!! Consultation honest advise good service from a knowledgeable Styling and technical team.

 

 

Some the issues raised, have covered in past blogs and topic’s  Lift deposit . Tone. Highlighting and Blonde looks feel free to look at back issues or ask question via blog contact.

Considering how light to go can take some thought. Hold light swatches against your skin. Hey try wigs you will be amazed how skin colour. Eye colour. Changes when you lighten your hair.

Also make up and indeed choice of clothing colour shade and style might have to be thought about.

Good luck be brave but consider it harder to go light and get the right shade than going back to natural or darker!

A use full link on controlling shade pigment tone.

 

 

 

 

 

How dark? How blonde? much to Consider. Just remember skin colour, eye colour, Pigment and tone.

have your stylist explain this to you.

Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Dark hair. Brunette to Natural looking Blonde.

Posted by on August 8, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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