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New style new look cut colour reds and coppers


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

When we think of red hair colours tones and shades there are just so many shades to choose from. Hot reds, Warm controlled reds. Copper shades all the way through to cool blue mauve reds.

The red shades are the hardest to get to last the hardest to keep that rich true colour. why? because of the size of the colour molecule. Either we have to open the cuticle to much or the colour acts like a stain on the outer surface of the hair and it washes out. Finally the hair is over processed before we start. wrong formulation. many issues.

The rule is hardest to get into the hair last to come out!

Choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide the correct formulation are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients hair to give depth and longevity to colour. If we use to higher volume of peroxide we can lift the hair to much lifting out any red or orange and giving us a yellow orange pigment base. Always consider target colour and what will be exposed in the lifting process.

                      Faded dull with Grey root issue

All food for thought? We also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance on mid lengths and ends. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem. Then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage how much of our N series might be required.

Hot roots are normally caused by lack of N natural series or formulation incorrect the volume of peroxide and lift required high the volume the more lift, so more warmth exposed. Whats required? A controlling green or blue base if to bright.With these examples of red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model. oh and no hot roots! even colour rot to tip balanced.

                        Rich vibrant even colour root to end

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages. Work up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone. To go Darker to lighter the key is to use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise.

A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.

Consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

Take into account any issues during the consultation Grey issues can be resolved so you don’t have a thin deposit or  hot roots . Remember Grey issues will require some amount of the N natural series in the root formulation the level of peroxide you choose is the other deciding factor.

The model above to the right  has a Grey issue but as you can see a rich vibrant even colour is possible

As you can see from these last shots. all new same model new  deeper richer red almost brunette shade.  Why? Well as we are dealing with a little more Grey a to vibrant  copper could cause it to  look thin and with a possible bright roots issue. A razor cut to create texture and movement no scissors used also added more texture with my claw finger razor’s.

I hope that is article is helpful and that it creates thought about lift deposit and target colour. Remember consider the issues and the environment you are working on.

 It is possible over time to take reds and indeed solid brunette lighter it’s best done with patient and a clear vision and understanding of process and final look or goal. above is on the way to the shade we are trying to reach.

Goal a light copper honey shade that will enable us to highlight and get away from a solid colour and the issue of roots because of the amount of grey hair.

The final look and colour we worked together for it’s a journey but well worth while I hope that this has been helpful and instructive as always comments views thoughts

Mike B2MR

 

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Going lighter with natural red hair.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I don’t quite remember when the penny really dropped about understanding hair colour. I don’t just mean the application of it . I refer to understanding. Lift. Deposit. Pigment achieving that desired perfect colour and shade.

A challenge in it self but some natural colours are harder to cope with than others. Depending on what the desired shade is.

Lets take a look at our warm shades Reds, Coppers, Rich brunette.

Lets use a scenario of wanting to go lighter. By that  i suggest a Blonde shade. Most people who want blonde do not want to see. Orange or Yellow.

This create many issues for our natural reds and coppers heads, lets take a look at what may arise and some option of how to address them.

In so many cases the main thing to consider are? How light  to go? What shade of blonde is achievable? The consultation process is key here before making any application of colour, bleach/decolouriser.

With Red pigment being the hardest to lift and control a realistic vision and a game plan are the key to success.

With a natural bright copper colour [sometimes know as ginger]. A bright copper natural base shade would normally be around a level 7 on any shade chart. So quite light and yet full of those pigment tones red and red orange, yellow. To get to any shade of Blonde we have to lift up to and beyond level 9 and infact 10 and beyond and be able to control pigment exposed with the use of a toner to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

The issue being. As you manage to lift the red and orange pigment out you then hit the yellow pigment bar. Because of the strong pigment in this hair the yellow pigment will be really intense so mistakes can be made when controlling it with a toner. choose the wrong or incorrect toner and disaster awaits! I class toning as corrective.

two yellow does Not require ash ! maybe you are laughing but it happens all to often!

I have seen so many natural Bright copper heads with attempts at highlights that can look. Green, dull metallic, drab. cause ? ASH toner

The main reason is choice of toner. In many cases we reach as stylists for a toner with an ash base, but lets think about this ash is blue base toner,  blue and yellow make? Green hence the dull drab tone!

Consider using a violet base.Why? Well we have lifted the hair removing all the red pigment. There was hardly any blue to start with. So to find a balance of shade we have to replace the missing pigment red and blue, this equals Violet in some cases maybe a blue violet base could be required.

Its all about considering the pigment you have exposed and what your target is. Its also worth mentioning that one needs to consider skin tone and eye colour when taking a natural copper level into blonde shades will it look good!

The same consideration should be applied to rich brunettes although a little blue pigment on the surface you with be lifting from around a natural level 5 into reds then copper orange, my suggested goal here would be a caramel shade not to blonde it will look dull yellow slightly dirty!

Lift to a pale orange yellow shade. Then tone with a blue violet toner. This will re balance the pigment exposed leaving a really rich caramel highlight.

Again when lifting the hair consider skin tone eye colour. A natural brunette will normally have brown or hazel eye colour so to light will wash out the skin and the eyes will not pop!

The main considerations as stated are. Natural hair level, skin tone, eye colour. A realistic vision of lifted goal level. Will the desired look be flattering? It’s not our goal to dictate but is is to advise,honestly in the consultation process.

Consider the pigment you will be encountering make sure you have thought through what you are doing and what look you want. It’s all about pigment control. Understanding the colour wheel trusting the colour wheel. Yes trusting the laws of colour. Do this and you will not have unwanted tone.

Know your products that is the colours you use know how they work what you can expect from them.

If you are lifting hair that has been previously coloured I would suggest consultation strand test. I would suggest working from the ends into the roots when lifting? with patients supported with knowledge and understanding of the process.

Many more issues can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.

You can see that it is possible to take a red head and lighten it by introducing a controlled level and tone of blonde.

Mike B2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Hot red hair warm copper Brunette’s


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

When we think of reds there are just so many shades to choose from. Hot reds Warm controlled reds. Copper shades all the way through to cool blue mauve reds.

The red shades are the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour.

The rule is hardest to get into the hair last to come out!

Choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients hair to give depth and longevity to colour. If we use to higher volume of peroxide we can lift the hair to much lifting out any red or orange and giving us a yellow orange pigment base. Always consider target colour and what will be exposed in the lifting process.

                                            Faded dull with Grey root issue

All food for thought? But we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance on mid lengths and ends.

Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.

Hot roots are normally caused by lack of N natural series or a controlling green or blue base if to bright.

With these examples of red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair.

As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

                                        Rich vibrant even colour root to end

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages. Work up and down the shadesslowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone. To go Darker to lighter the key is to use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise.A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.

But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

Take into account any issues during the consultation Grey issues can be resolved so you don’t have a thin deposit or  hot roots . Remember Grey issues will require some amount of the N natural series in the root formulation the level of peroxide you choose is the other deciding factor.

The model above to the right  has a Grey issue but as you can see a rich vibrant even colour is possible

As you can see from these last three shots. new shots same model new  deeper richer red almost brunette shade.  Why? Well as we are dealing with a little more Grey a to vibrant  copper could cause it to  look thin and with a possible bright roots issue.

A razor cut to create texture and movement no scissors used also added more texture with my claw finger razor’s.

I hope that is article is helpful and that it creates thought about lift deposit and target colour. Remember consider the issues and the environment you are working on.

The above shot shows that over the course of a few months colour can be lightened length can be added patients and thinking the process through . working slowly to reach the agreed goal in this case longer hair less root issue.

Mike B2MR

Comment Donna Watson.

OMG…..I WISH! If you didnt live so far away I would be camped on your doorstep to get my hair just the right colour. :o) LOVE IT is an understatement. :O)
 
1 Comment

Posted by on September 30, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Bright red heads. Hot coppers. Brunettes.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.


Hot Reds, fiery Copper, Brunettes.

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary. Yet there seem’s to be a revival sadly so much of the red hair i see is home done. It’s often looks really Red to start but tends to fade very quickly.The colour that seem’s to be the must have is that real red but with a blue edge for control almost a mauve red!

Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop look like swimming pools.

Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift  it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone the more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play But even this is a balance to much lift  re remove the red and orange to little and we control that vibrancy.

The Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker. finally once in the hair it can prove quite difficult to remove.

When we have a natural level 7 it can be Blonde with a undertone slightly gold its very easy to go Copper. When going tone on tone or darker it is not necessary to use permanent colour.

In fact when going Red or copper level 7 and above the more or higher volume of peroxide the more copper the colour, you are adding orange to the hair with the lift.

For level 6 dark Blonde and level 5 light Brown again consider whether you need to lift and expose more pigment in the hair at level 5 and 6 10 volume will be enough to bring out extra red pigment.

Green eyes works with red hair as can cool skin tone it’s a question of getting the shade right so it compliments skin and eye tone.

Different shades can be played with to create tone and dimension, it is possible to go from copper to red to brunette and back it you think the process through!

I have intentionally shown the same model for most of the shots in an effort to show that change of colour and style is possible. with out over processing the hair.

As you can see it is easy to move between shades from quite dark brunette through to warm tones, they do effect skin tone and eye colour but not in an adverse

way.

All of these colour have been done with  10vol for root lift and Demi Deposit the darker shades Demi only remember tone on tone or darker does not require lift.

A choice of high volume of peroxide will warm up your chosen colour.

Above this rich copper colour is sectioned out into Zulu knots and four different shades of red and copper have been applied.

Above this Level 5 natural level 10 vol peroxide enough to bring out the red pigment but not enough for more lift to bring out orange would make this cool red more brown.

Enjoy have fun experiment: So many shades of reds and copper to experiment with.

looking forward to thoughts and comments Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Bright red heads. Hot coppers. Brunettes.

Posted by on September 1, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hot reds, rich copper, Hair colours:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

 

Hot Reds, fiery Copper, Brunettes.

 

 

 

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.

Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop look like swimming pools.

 

 

Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone the more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play But even this is a balance to much lift  re remove the red and orange to little and we control that vibrancy.

 

 

The Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker. finally once in the hair it can prove quite difficult to remove.

 

When we have a natural level 7 it can be Blonde with a undertone slightly gold its very easy to go Copper. When going tone on tone or darker it is not necessary to use permanent colour.

In fact when going Red or copper level 7 and above the more or higher volume of peroxide the more copper the colour, you are adding orange to the hair with the lift.

 

For level 6 dark Blonde and level 5 light Brown again consider whether you need to lift and expose more pigment in the hair at level 5 and 6 10 volume will be enough to bring out extra red pigment.

 

Green eyes works with red hair as can cool skin tone it’s a question of getting the shade right so it compliments skin and eye tone.

 

Different shades can be played with to create tone and dimension, it is possible to go from copper to red to brunette and back it you think the process through!

I have intentionally shown the same model for most of the shots in an effort to show that change of colour and style is possible. with out over processing the hair.

As you can see it is easy to move between shades from quite dark brunette through to warm tones, they do effect skin tone and eye colour but not in an adverse

way.

 

All of these colour have been done with  10vol for root lift and Demi Deposit the darker shades Demi only remember tone on tone or darker does not require lift.

A choice of high volume of peroxide will warm up your chosen colour.

 

Above this rich copper colour is sectioned out into Zulu knots and four different shades of red and copper have been applied.

 

Above this Level 5 natural level 10 vol peroxide enough to bring out the red pigment but not enough for more lift to bring out orange would make this cool red more brown.

Enjoy have fun experiment: So many shades of reds and copper to experiment with.

looking forward to thoughts and comments Mike B2MR

 

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Blonde,Red, Brunette hair and so much more


Having read the reviews posted on the articles post thus far i am pleased that the comments for the most part are positive, For i do not profess to be the best writer in the world.

An on going theme seems to be following the blog maybe being able to leave comments thoughts and idea’s to this ends  i also post on another site and find it more interactive for leaving both thought and comment.

Please feel free to check it out feed back is so important to me. Mike B2MR

http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Reds hot and cold!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

Hot Reds, fiery Copper, cool Red!

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.

Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop, look like swimming pools.

Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone the more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play But even this is a balance to much lift  re remove the red and orange to little and we control that vibrancy.

The Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker. finally once in the hair it can prove quite difficult to remove.

When we have a natural level 7  it can be Blonde with a undertone slightly gold its very easy to go Copper. When going tone on tone or darker it is not necessary to use permanent colour.

In fact when going Red or copper level 7 and above the more or higher volume of peroxide the more copper the colour, you are adding orange to the hair with the lift.

Blue eyes can work with red hair as can cool skin tone it’s a question of getting the shade right so it compliments skin and eye tone.

For level 6 dark Blonde and level 5 light Brown again consider whether you need to lift and expose more pigment in the hair at level 5 and 6 10 volume will be enough to bring out extra red pigment.

Different shades can be played with to create tone and dimension, it is possible to go from copper to red to brunette and back it you think the process through!

I have intentionally shown the same model for most of the shots in an effort to show that change of colour and style is possible. with out over processing the hair.

As you can see it is easy to move between shades from quite dark brunette through to warm tones, they do effect skin tone and eye colour but not in an adverse

way.

All of these colour have been done with  10vol for root lift and Demi Deposit the darker shades Demi only remember tone on tone or darker does not require lift.

A choice of high volume of peroxide will warm up your chosen colour.

To the right this rich copper colour is sectioned out into Zulu knots and four different shades of red and copper have been applied.

Finally to the left Level 5 natural level 10 vol peroxide enough to bring out the red pigment but not enough for more lift to bring out orange would make this cool red more brown.

Enjoy have fun experiment:

 

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