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Hairdressers Stylist. Do you know?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What do you know about Formaldehyde?

What do you know about Ammonia and MEA ?

Some facts for us all to know and so i thought I would share some chemistry with those who might be interested. We owe it to ourselves our work mates and our clients to be informed. We have to make the right choices and also pass on the right information.

What do you know about Formaldehyde?  yes it’s found in many of the keratin relaxer!

What is Formaldehyde? What are the risks?

Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable gas at room temperature. It has a pungent, distinct odor and may cause a burning sensation to the eyes, nose, and lungs at high concentrations. You are exposed to small amounts of formaldehyde in the air. It occurs from both natural and man made sources although combustion is the largest source. There is usually more formaldehyde present indoors than outdoors and is often used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is irritating to tissues when it comes into direct contact with them. Some people are more sensitive to the effects of formaldehyde than others. The most common symptoms include irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, along with increased tearing, which occurs at air concentrations of about 0.4–3 parts per million (ppm). The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) states that formaldehyde is immediately dangerous to life and health at 20 ppm. The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that formaldehyde may reasonably be anticipated to be a human carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen.  Given its known health risks, it is important to limit exposure to formaldehyde especially in high and repeated concentrations.

What are other names for Formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is also known as methanal, methylene oxide, oxymethylene, methylaldehyde, oxomethane, formalin, aldehyde, formic aldehyde, formol, biformyl, glutaraldehyde, ethyl alcohol, methylene glycol, glyoxal

 

What do you know about Ammonia and MEA ? used as the active Alkaline in hair colour?

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

 2. Ammonia is a gas. 

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile. 

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour. 

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive. This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released. (Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc.)

7. The Danish government has banned the mixing of ammonia colours in the salon. They have to be mixed under an extraction system in a separate room.

8. The symptoms associated with specific ammonia concentrations are as follows:

0.6ppm-53ppm 25ppm-50ppm

Odour threshold. Irritation of the eyes and mucous membrane, which can be tolerated for several hours. Immediate irritation of the throat which may be tolerated for 1 hour.

100ppm-150ppm (Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc.)

9. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

10. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

11. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

12. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

13. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

14. Tints of Nature uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly, the MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

I hope having read this it was helpful maybe pushes a few buttons raises some questions? If so seek out the answers ! We all have choice.

Mike B2MR

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Hair colour Herbal organic natural or chemical? Hum


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.

I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across. We owe it to our selves and indeed our clients to be informed have all the facts and information about new products as they come to the market place and so the salon.

Many colour lines now have so many ways of manipulating the way the colour is deposited what makes one bottle seem chemically safe for the may hide a different result when mixed with part B! some times low chemistry in parts A and B create a double trouble when mixed. read the formulation see what you are using. Stay and be informed be a true questioning professional.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See information brief description on MEA below in article. 

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote:

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

So in preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

So as quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 
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Posted by on September 22, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hairdressing health and safety. An international issue.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: regular postings of fresh new topic’s

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Health and safety in the Salon :

Not a topic that i really ever thought worthy of writing about! that is until now this really is so very important for it effects us our clients our daily lives. please do take the time to read this article not many pictures but many facts!!!!

We are exposed to so many products chemical processes, we breath fumes, we handle products, we apply them onto our clients.

We expose these chemicals to heat be it from dryers to streamers to very hot ceramic irons, how often do we really take the time to think are they safe do i know what reaction may take place can i explain fully what this process is doing to my client

Do i have all the facts all the knowledge and skill to make this safe?

Going back to past topic’s Service is key to success so is safety, as is the consultation for it is through consultation that we get the facts to know if a chemical process might be possible i say might be for we may still have to do skin test and or a strand test.

When i first came across the term COSHH  Control of substances hazardous to health:

I thought here we go health and safety gone wild.

More over legislation by bodies out of touch with the workings of a hairdressing salon.

Having suffered as most stylist have done with skin issues especially when training all day shampooing having breathed in way to many fumes! having coloured hair, highlighted hair, for years without wearing gloves or protection i have to say the regulations make sense.

But so much of it is common sense  I think sometimes we are put off because with all the regulations because they are written and taught to us like we are all idiots.

So we have to take control of our safety our clients safety, be sensible about products application and working environment.

Service and safety.

I will attempt to touch on the key issues of safety in the salon but a good guide to own maybe even have in the salon is Hairdressing the foundation NVQ has a great deal of information.

Also great site with so much information on many topic’s

http://www.hair-heads.co.uk/salon-health-and-safety/coshh.php

In 1974 health and safety act was born to this day it is continually updated.

For me up dates of health and safety is key especially given the ever changing world of products available to us and how to use them.

With the high heat styling tools and flat irons we have to be aware of the danger from heat damage and also the effects from fumes when Chemistry and heat come together. This can be a danger to stylists and  clients.

Sometimes these effects are not readily noticeable we have to be aware to the danger understand the chemistry the process cause and effect.

Stay current search the internet for products reviews ask questions, be informed for both your sake and your clients: all common sense!!!!! research on the internet read reviews raise questions on forums be active get involved share opinion’s good and bad, Share experiences.

Heat and chemicals Fumes : breathing, vision,

I have said that service and safety go together so does consultation and safety with out doing a full in depth consultation how do you establish the history of any chemical work done on a clients head? how do you know that it will not cause a heat reaction causing hair to melt maybe even scalp burn.

If this happens you as the professional are responsible question, question, look, touch. if needed strand test. all this come sunder health safety !!!!!

With new products coming to the market all the time be they hair colour .the new and innovative Keratin based relaxers being aware of the products how they work how they are formulated .the very chemistry of how and why they work is our responsibility. Not knowing or ignorance is not an excuse when things go wrong

Formaldehyde one of the biggest dangers found in some of the keratin relaxers can cause toxic fumes that can and will cause breathing issues.

Here is an explanation

What is Formaldehyde? What are the risks?

Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable gas at room temperature. It has a pungent, distinct odor and may cause a burning sensation to the eyes, nose, and lungs at high concentrations. You are exposed to small amounts of formaldehyde in the air. It occurs from both natural and man made sources although combustion is the largest source. There is usually more formaldehyde present indoors than outdoors and is often used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is irritating to tissues when it comes into direct contact with them. Some people are more sensitive to the effects of formaldehyde than others. The most common symptoms include irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, along with increased tearing, which occurs at air concentrations of about 0.4–3 parts per million (ppm). The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) states that formaldehyde is immediately dangerous to life and health at 20 ppm. The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that formaldehyde may reasonably be anticipated to be a human carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen.  Given its known health risks, it is important to limit exposure to formaldehyde especially in high and repeated concentrations.

What are other names for Formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is also known as methanal, methylene oxide, oxymethylene, methylaldehyde, oxomethane, formalin, aldehyde, formic aldehyde, formol, biformyl, glutaraldehyde, ethyl alcohol, methylene glycol, glyoxal

Below a list of topic’s all key to salon health safety, the salon and it’s staff all work together so taking care of the salon making it and maintaining it as  a safe healthy palace is everyone responsibility.

Key roles such as record keeping, regular checks should be carried out by designated staff members.

As a salon owner having your self or a staff member with basic first aid is a good course of action i think everyone should do a basic first aid and CPR course well worth knowing.

Safe disposal of products chemicals old sharp objects:

Work place safety, [wet floors. fire safety, electrical, or gas]

Safe salon environment. protection, storage,

Being environmentally aware.

First aid. Training, procedures,

Health hygiene, infection, sterilisation,

The above list of subjects out lines different areas that need to be addressed the days of owning running a salon or just doing hair from home do not allow for complacency with regard to health and safety and liability issues not knowing is not an excuse when things go wrong or accidents happen!

Stay informed offer the highest standard of service in the safest setting possible.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Habia-Health-and-Safety/267250536627899

Need help or advise contact me via my web site:

thanks MikeB2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 
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Posted by on September 20, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair colour. How and why it works


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

Hair Colour pigment lift deposit. Following on from yesterdays hair structure article. This should make for a good follow up and bring things together.

The Relationship between. Natural hair colour, Hydrogen peroxide, and Permanent colour is a complex one.

 

                                                       lets talk colour.

This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour, their are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost the consultation, a time to gain as much information and history as possible, a time for some honest and frank questions.

Before we can consider away forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of this head, assess amount of Grey if any, discuss goals and targets .Are they realistic? Are they achievable?

It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

 

Permanent colour. This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.

The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results.

We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

What makes it challenging

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

 

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

 

                                     Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.

10 volume or 3% Peroxide:

In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

 

 

 

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

10=yellow

9=yellow orange

8= orange

7=red orange

6= Red

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

 

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

 

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

 

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system,

Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

 

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

FACT:  Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction, with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

Take the time to understand and trust the colour wheel, make choices and decision based on. skill, knowledge, not on guess work and ego.

Note:  Not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

 

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Our love of hair colour.Professional and Home.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR


                                               Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS,

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject . Offer some advise and share some experiences gained from so many great years in our industry.  It’s very cool.

I will try and cover some subjects from the every day challenges to the creative over the top looks oh and some of the hair nightmares we get to fix and advise on! We all need to do understand how things happen and why ! 

Misuse of products. Miss information. Inpatients and not following guide lines and instructions. We can all be guilty of these things at some point in our career!

 

I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching. Lift deposit. Toning . Damage .Condition  but have decided that as topic’s they can always be re visited.  Reviewed in depth so will post more individual topics over the coming days. 

In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

                                                A list of topic’s that may well be added to:

 

                                           Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe: 

Bleaching Root application.

                              I also think at this juncture. That it is worth mentioning that. 

Not all home colours be they permanent tints or fun fashion shade are what they claim to be. It’s buyer beware. If  your wondering should I colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test.


Take a strand test. Remove a small amount of your processed hair and drop it into a glass of water. If it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. If you have a history of colouring and bleaching it on a regular bases. It may feel slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted! will not hold colour.


 

Many Products: 

Claiming to be .Ammonia free have something else doing the same Job MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives. Other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.

They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts. This is why it’s essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat. 

     

                              In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

 

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

I hope that this information is helpful and that the topic’s  covered do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair. Without knowledge of the products chemistry or formulation the risks of a chemical reaction or poor results or indeed allergic reaction can be a risk.

 

Although I offer sound advise. Every head is different the  history on any given head is different so information and advise offered is only guidance. Although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

If in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment. 

All of the topic’s and articles posted are to try and share knowledge and experience .Hoping to inspire and raise standards.

 

                                                 http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/   

On a bad day you could end up like this! anyone guess how this 

was done or why?  Mike B2MR


 

 

 

 

 

 


 
Comments Off on Our love of hair colour.Professional and Home.

Posted by on August 1, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair products. Thoughts and views.


Back2myroots :  A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR.

Discussion sharing thoughts and views:

Smoke and mirrors:

In a recent exchange of thoughts with a fellow industry professional we were sharing thoughts and comments around policy and what is accepted as common place with professional hair colour manufactures. The practice of deploying clever marketing tactics to promote products in some cases cases certain Ingredients are promoted whilst others are disguised or played down.

In some cases companies work on the assumption that the majority of users or consumers do not know any difference when the topic of ingredients are raised and their short / long term effect.

We as stylist colour technicians hairdressers owe it to our selves and our clients to be well informed and try to educate our clients on this subject. We cannot do this unless we ourselves stay current and educated.

In the same exchange of views. The issue was raised as to training knowledge of stylists and interest in products ingredients it was suggested that. Many hairdressers and colorists do not consider internal knowledge of ingredients an issue, it was also suggested that for a few. Performance is key and most stylists are content to be part of an industry that  revolves around beauty and creating beautiful color, and the reality of our business is generating results that provide a complimentary service for which people pay a premium.

My view on this is that whilst I agree with this in principle . But don’t see how. Being informed and educated. Being able to inform clients openly about any given product would or should effect our creative talent. clients who are paying a premium should be doing so in the knowledge that the person doing the creative work is well informed and educated and not just using products that some corporate entity or large manufacturer has produced a slick advertising campaign for.

It was also pointed out to me that our lives are touched daily with ingredients that would shock most. However this is a commercial world we live in and is based on reality. Does this mean we should not question does this mean we just have to accept it? I hope not. I think not. Transparence inspires trust!

Manufacturers share technologies and ingredients and their resources are limited to what is tried, tested and approved by the cosmetic federations governing safety and usability.

This was and is not the point products that are tested  and certified as safe can be changed when certain elements come together also many ingredients are disguised and represented if different ways.

I am only saying we as professionals have a right to question and decide. We should not assume everything written on the box is gospel. Manufactures and corporate concerns should hold professional stylist in higher regard when it’s comes to standards of knowledge and education.

In Closing we can as stylist change this attitude of need to know bases education, demand transparency of chemistry and ingredients and effects from manufacturing by questioning becoming educated ourselves and of course most importantly by use!

It is through. Asking questions. Raising issue. Communication. That we can instigate change with both colour companies. Honest. Open discussions all will lead to professional having access to products with a chemistry they can trust.

This same discussion I believe forced many of the companies producing Keratin based smoothing products.The Initial fears about formaldehyde having been addressed to satisfy both stylist’s and clients.

On this topic I have written to a company producing a smoothing product fro more information.

I await a response.

MikeB2MR

 
Comments Off on Hair products. Thoughts and views.

Posted by on July 22, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair colour: Alkalinity Ph


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!

As Hairdressers  when considering doing  hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, but more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no Ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no Ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the Semi Demi but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an Alkaline can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition:

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!


Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle.

Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material.Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

So as we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research!

Thank you!

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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