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Our love of hair colour.Professional and Home.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR


                                               Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS,

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject . Offer some advise and share some experiences gained from so many great years in our industry.  It’s very cool.

I will try and cover some subjects from the every day challenges to the creative over the top looks oh and some of the hair nightmares we get to fix and advise on! We all need to do understand how things happen and why ! 

Misuse of products. Miss information. Inpatients and not following guide lines and instructions. We can all be guilty of these things at some point in our career!

 

I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching. Lift deposit. Toning . Damage .Condition  but have decided that as topic’s they can always be re visited.  Reviewed in depth so will post more individual topics over the coming days. 

In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

                                                A list of topic’s that may well be added to:

 

                                           Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe: 

Bleaching Root application.

                              I also think at this juncture. That it is worth mentioning that. 

Not all home colours be they permanent tints or fun fashion shade are what they claim to be. It’s buyer beware. If  your wondering should I colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test.


Take a strand test. Remove a small amount of your processed hair and drop it into a glass of water. If it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. If you have a history of colouring and bleaching it on a regular bases. It may feel slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted! will not hold colour.


 

Many Products: 

Claiming to be .Ammonia free have something else doing the same Job MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives. Other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.

They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts. This is why it’s essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat. 

     

                              In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

 

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

I hope that this information is helpful and that the topic’s  covered do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair. Without knowledge of the products chemistry or formulation the risks of a chemical reaction or poor results or indeed allergic reaction can be a risk.

 

Although I offer sound advise. Every head is different the  history on any given head is different so information and advise offered is only guidance. Although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

If in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment. 

All of the topic’s and articles posted are to try and share knowledge and experience .Hoping to inspire and raise standards.

 

                                                 http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/   

On a bad day you could end up like this! anyone guess how this 

was done or why?  Mike B2MR


 

 

 

 

 

 


 
Comments Off on Our love of hair colour.Professional and Home.

Posted by on August 1, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Home hair colour. Choices and consequences.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

 

 

One of the biggest dangers that consumers face when heading down to. The supermarket . Chemist. Drug. Store .Searching the hair color aisle is a daunting process and sometimes impulsiveness.

Lack of knowledge. To much choice. To little direction and helpful information.

Don’t assume that because the biggest print on the box says Ammonia free all natural that it’s safe!

Pictures of half an Avocado, suggesting health and shine.

 

If it’s permanent colour with no Ammonia it has something else doing the same job be that MEA or De alcoholised grain extract. So its buyer beware get informed!

(Image of models on the boxes promoting that look that natural colour}

 

Celebrities and advertising gurus have heavily promoted the idea that if you change your hair color, you instantly transform your life.

 

While that concept may potentially be true in some cases, any home hair coloring projects undertaken in haste could result in months of growing out regrets.

Is it possible to create a magical perfect hair color? Yes! Just Wave a wand and get that home hair color with natural hues with success?  Although more complicated coloring projects should be outsourced to a professional colorist. With some careful planning and consultation every thing is possible.

A list of realistic expectations and a little patience, new shades of beautiful blonde, radiant red, and chocolate brown, can all be possible.

But it is buyer beware and pitfalls can and do often happen. Trying to go from one shade to another trying to jump to one colour to another totally different colour issues with over processing!

Oh! they forgot to mention that on the box!

 

Things to Know and consider.

Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia.  Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing color but may well chemical properties to help deposit a little.

Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle and down to next layer.  Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia.  May be more permanent in some situations again by changing the Ph of the hair the colour will deposit last longer in some cases.

Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos.  Deposits color between cuticle and cortex.  May contain some peroxide and/or ammonia.

Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex.  Contains peroxide and ammonia. Color lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is re-colored.

Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia.

Double Process Color – Cuticle is first opened and hair is lightened 4-6 levels with peroxide, ammonia and bleach.  New color is then deposited via a toner into the cortex through the cuticle.

 

While Temporary, Semi and Demi-Perm hues are generally considered “safe”  “there are always exceptions to every hair rule”. sometimes the Chemistry of these colours is misleading. Changing the Ph of hair changes the way colour will deposit.

For example, In “some situations, “wash out” tones may become “permanent” if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments.”

 

What does this mean exactly?  That if you apply a temporary color to strands that are damaged and thus “porous” or more absorbent than normal, the color will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain.  Thus repeated attempts to wash out the color will be ineffective.

If you’re brand new at the shade changing game consider products with training wheels such as temporary, semi or demi-perm colors  that last only through a series of shampoo treatments.

Once you get the hang of coloring with temporary colors, you can step up to the permanent colors that lasts until it grows out, hair is cut or a new hue is applied.

 

But be aware that over time colour desired and used might need to be adjusted. also over time the condition of hair coloured on a regular bases can and will change.

In some cases the colour used on re growth might be different from colour needed to match in the mid length and ends.

Note:  If you are unsure how your strands will adopt to hair color, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair color kits or skip the home color exercise and contact a professional colorist.

 

So many choices so many shades so much to consider! maybe it’s time to have a no obligation consultation with a Professional Stylist. Before making that leap of faith into the unknown world of hair colour! Mike B2MR

Quote:

Hey Mike,

I am loving the blog, great information and wonderful layout.  Sheila Szonyi

 
Comments Off on Home hair colour. Choices and consequences.

Posted by on July 29, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Our Love of hair colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Our Love with Hair colour:

Be it organic based all natural or synthetic our love of hair Colour is never ending so we need to be well informed.

Here are some facts and useful basic information.

Primary Colours:

understanding colour key to successThose natural primary colours

it's all about Red Yellow BlueThese are pure Colours they cannot be made by mixing others Colours together.

We Use Colour to describe people and emotions, e.g Green with envy, feeling down feeling Blue, seeing Red, Red with anger.

Colour surrounds us constantly Changing Sky. Blooming flowers.

A world with out colour would be a very dull world indeed, we even use colour to describe how we feel warm cold excited tranquil.

We use hair Colour to describe people we have all been guilty of Stereotyping people because by hair colour.

The Debate  Gentlemen prefer Blondes! Blondes have more fun! or do they just get noticed quicker? or as suggested in some circle,  ‘Just get dirty quicker’!

The Fire associated with red heads hot head out spoken, head strong! or is it self confidence?

The Brunette, safe Approachable, Natural, health. inwardly content? maybe.

Throughout the ages we have explored different products some natural some chemical to dye and stain our hair be it short term or longer lasting.

Examples of these would be as follows:

True vegetable Dyes: The are derived from Herbs, plants ,flowers, vegetables, and Bark,

[As a note these do not have MEA or products produced from grain Alcohol added to them.] They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine.

Advantages. Natural stain will not enter hair shaft may build up over time.

Disadvantage will not cover Grey hair.

TIP Vegetable rinses and Infusions should not be used on Chemically treated hair!

Henna a herbal compound though out history

Henna as a Colour

Red Henna comes from the Dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.

Natural henna comes from the crushed root.

Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products including Hydrogen Peroxide.

If unsure do a strand test,[ Strong discoloration,an unpleasant smell. no colour change, uneven results down hair shaft, in some case applying permanent colour over    the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!]

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!

Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.

{Again before attempting any new colour strand testis essential!}

rich shinning healthy

SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR


Rich dark Chocolate Brown!

product understanding

Semi permanent Colour will make the same hair depth as the Natural base shade, good for changing tones gold,red, copper, Burgundy,

It works by depositing relatively small colour Molecules in the hair [Red molecule is the largest of all] these products generally have a Ph around 8 to 9 so they do open the cuticle a little, over time can build up and stain ! But in normal case they fade with shampooing as it’s only a partial deposit.

Used a a good introduction with clients to colour. {remember results will vary given hair type, condition, clients colour history, the chemistry of the product, sadly some colour companies mislead us}

Advantages:

Useful for enhancing hair colour or refreshing tint applications. adds shine and Gloss.ideal for bold fashion statement . safely used on Permed hair.

Disadvantage:

wash out four to six weeks depending on frequency of washing, result can be patchy uneven, cannot lighten hair,


product knowledge

Permanent Colour:


Permanent hair colour affords us the ultimate service: allowing us the choices of infinite shades full Grey coverage. These dyes lighten the hairs natural melanin and tint at the same time. These Dyes will only become effective when mixed with hydrogen peroxide a topic i will cover down the road but at this juncture i will advise the level of peroxide one chooses can and will effect the colour you choose and final result on so many levels! normally comes in  strengths of 10. 3% 20.6% 30.9% 40.12%Volume  Hydrogen Peroxide comes in levels up to 100% nothing more than 40% is recommended for hair application.

[At this point i think things will get to technical if i out line how this process works contact me to discuss}

Problems to watch out for:

Colour fade  this is generally due to the cuticle being raised or damaged. allowing the colour wash out and fade.  This can be result of over processing porosity and Ph of the hair.

Another huge mistake many make when doing permanent colour is a root-regrowth application and then combing through that same formulation after a period of time to the mid-lenghts and ends. this leads to muddy colour and over processing one should always colour balance.{ topic for future discussion}.

Rich Demi deposit

Rich reds are possible

Hair resistant to colour:

Strong white or Grey or cause thick  hair the cuticle scales packed close together. In this instance we might need to pre-soften one school of thought is to run 10 vol 3%through the hair leave for 20 mins rinse cool water prior to applying colour.

I think That given that 10 Vol 3% alone could still give some lift and given that Grey hair still holds pigment I might suggest an alternative.

Having chosen you desired natural target level mix as a pre-soften solution 1 part N series{target level} with 1.5 or 1 1/2 times water leave for 20 mins. after this apply your target colour directly  over this application. {proceed as normal root application colour balance.}

Bright natural low and high lights

Natural Blonde looks with highlights

Advantages :

permanently changes hair colour,

Can lighten and tone at the same time,

100%Grey coverage,

wide choice colour, versatility,

Disadvantages:

requires Client commitment to regular process,

Colour fade especially if hair is or becomes over processed.

Risk of skin allergy irritation : {always do skin test}

In my next blog I will talk about peroxide hair Lift, exposing different pigment in the hair, becoming part of the colour equation,

highlights low lights lift deposit

Many colours can be added to create texture and dimension,

Cool red, natural blonde, beige, we just need to consider the head of hair we are working on.

Finally in these days of hot straitening irons, craving for the sun, Chlorine build up we have to be super careful.

Condition protect cover up !


 

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Product knowledge choice decision:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related. copy right pending.

 

 

Salon International is a few days away:

 

I am looking forward to going to the show meeting some of the wonderful people that i have had the good fortune to net work with over the last months.

Sharing knowledge and information promoting products and businesses that work to serve us with in our industry is for me what this is all about.

 

I strive to share my knowledge and experience with others to encourage those new to our industry to get well trained and stay focused and learn all there is to learn about our profession.

 

I constantly write about the importance of salon service the art of the consultation, being educated on the hair colours the chemistry of these products are constantly being changed  we are told improved in some cases i think it’s to early to know.

 

I am really pleased with the new look to the blog site http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/ and the links we have manged to make both with my own groups and media pages and the companies that now allow mutual promotion and sharing.

In the past weeks some disturbing press has been written about some of the new products available to us as stylist.

It is so important that we get all the facts on these products both for our own personal safety that of our team mates and indeed our clients. no all of the companies supplying these new wonder products fully disclose all the relevant information chemistry or effects of these products, it is up to all of us to share  with each other comments reviews effects results of these products.

With the Internet and so many site allowing sharing we can stay informed we can net work we can monitor these products we can make the companies become more transparent in disclosing product content and any possible side effects.

 

Lets all enjoy salon international but lets all start to ask deeper questions let become more educated more informed.

Its all part of the service the service we offer the service we give. can i help you with this?

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Home hair colour Pitfalls:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS,

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject, In my search to find information I came across this wonderful sight a place for alternative hair colour  people go to with real hair issues.

A place people offer advise and share their experiences with each other shame stylist don’t do this! it’s very cool.

http://www.hairdyeforum.com/

I am going to try and cover some subjects to try and save some hair nightmares, I do understand how things happen and why !

Misuse of products, miss information, inpatients, and not following guide lines and instructions,

Another sight to see some funky coloured heads           http://haircrazy.info/gallery/red/

I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching, Lift  deposit toning, damage , condition  but have decided that it is such a huge topic so that i think to cover all issues in depth so will post more individual topics over the coming days.

In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

A list of topic’s that may well be added to:

Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe:

Bleaching Root application.



I also think at this juncture that it is worth mentioning that not all home colours be the permanent Tints or fun fashion shade are what they proclaim to be it’s buyer beware if wondering should i colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test .

Take a strand test and drop it into a glass of water if it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. if you have coloured it or bleached it a great deal if slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted!

Many Products claiming no Ammonia have something else doing the same Job MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives, other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.

They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts, this is why it’s essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat.

In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

I hope that this introduction page is helpful and that the topic’s i cover do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair.

Although i can offer sound advise every head every history of an given head is different so information and advise offered although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

if in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/



On a bad day you could end up like this! anyone guess how this

was done or why?

I would love to hear comments feed back .

Enjoy anything really is possible if you put your mind to it take your time and be patient!!

Mike B2MR

 

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