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Hair colour correction challenges


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR : Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                   Hair Colour Correction:

I have decide this week to post topic’s on. Bleaching. Toning. and of course colour correction. Colour correction that journey into the unknown. That adventure that we have to be fully prepared for. the one that can and will at some point challenge us all.

To succeed we need. Knowledge.Skill. Technical ability. Good products and what? Communication and consultation skills. Colour correction starts with consultation!

Elasticity.Porosity.Moisture level. Overall condition key to successful out come and application.

An honest consultation who wants to end up with! An over processed shapeless mess!hardly an endorsement of ones skill or ability.

After a few days of postings hopefully providing information on many aspects of hair colouring.From the colour wheel to Ph Chart . reviews of Pigment. Lift. Deposit. Tone developers timing.With all the information provided one should have more knowledge to embark on corrective hair colour issues.

A huge topic how do you define or categorise it? What is classed as corrective colour? cause concerns Options:

Causes.

Client has Indulged in a cocktail hair colour party trying to get that salon look at home on the cheap! Or Sadly a poorly done colour service done by an unskilled hairdresser.

A mixture of both of the above some salon visits some home colour therapy! Can and will result in need of expert help and advise.

What must we consider when Taking on a Corrective colour  challenge?

Do some salon over charge for this service? sadly yes in many cases!

Are all stylists qualified to do this service? certainly not many just don’t have the knowledge and experience!

Are clients punished because they need this service? Yes, quite often they can feel like they are being punished.

The key to successful colour correction are as follows:  

Firstly as a client consumer. If you find your self in this dire situation. I really think it’s time to take stock seek out professional advise from someone who knows what they are doing. A professional that you as a client can trust.A person that has your best interest at heart!

Please don’t just buy another box of instant over the counter wonderful fix!

If it’s a poorly done Job by a hairdresser. I would suggest refund go else where. I would not trust them to put right a wrong!

As a Stylist:

If you as a stylist don’t feel comfortable. Don’t feel you have the skills to do corrective work, be big enough to admit it! Drop the ego get the skill.

The Key to successful Correction. Is communication and honesty by all concerned. History, concerns,  reservations, Expectations, should all be discussed.

The Consultation

This must be an honest conversation. Both parties must decide on a goal and what can realistically be achieved! {it is worth noting that correction can take more than one visit}

A Commitment to work together for how ever long this journey might take.

During the consultation, a stylist must use all tools available to them. Ask as many questions as possible thus getting a full history of events running up to this point!

Touch and feel,visual study of the hair.{ look for banding. fading. build up. breakage.porosity.} 

Do a strand test. Healthy hair floats, over processed hair sinks. Hair that sinks will not hold colour! Step one is to re build that moisture level 

How ever challenging the correction is. How ever good you are. We all like a challenge and to show off!   { oh yes it’s correction so big earner!}  But make sure you know what you doing. Are your up to the task.

What is classed as corrective hair work? Badly done Colour, Wrong Colour or shade. Poor coverage issues. Over Deposit. Damage by over process long term abuse.                                                                                         

Picture to the above is corrective from the first shot:

Colour added but existing Blonde utilised. Colours added all Demi formulation for deposit no lift

Stylist consider this 

If at the end of the day you don’t get a good feeling about. The client commitment or if it’s not going to be a good advert for your skill. Why take it on? EGO!

Think about this. Really damaged over processed hair, that is fading, falling apart a lot to take on. As soon as you agree to attempt to correct this you are saying. I take on full responsibility for this and all that has been done in the past!

A huge risk. Remember if it’s not going to be a good advert for you, that it can cause damage to your reputation. Hard as it is their is nothing wrong with saying. I’m sorry this is just to damaged to work with at this time. Recommend products see if there is commitment to work with you!

If the motivator is driven by your fee you should not be doing it!  

You should be thinking long term. This could be a long term relationship with a client. One who will trust you for ever, so be honest look at it as an investment! educate them.

The Next Step: 

So we have decided that we can and want to proceed:

Corrective Colour will usually be one or a combination of the following:

*Wrong level: the hair is to dark or too light.

*Wrong Tone: the hair is to warm {Orange} to cool {ash}

*Uneven colour: Dark ends. Lines of demarcation. light { hot} regrowth.

* Insufficient or poor Grey coverage.

* Colour that won’t holds on ends and or fade very quickly.

The key to understanding corrective colour is. The understanding of what pigment is missing from the hair. What needs to be replaced or removed?

Hair colour is about balance and harmony. Ask your self do i want utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? The chart below shows the relationship of tone and corrective tone. Remember that perfect balance of our primary colours Red, yellow, blue.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow}So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

You must learn to trust these charts to get the correct results:

It would not be possible to give an example of a corrective case, They are all different just way to many possibilities and things to watch out for.

Problems:

Colour may not be removed evenly over the entire head. Due mainly to varying porosity and build up. Always work from dark to light! Repeat on dark areas before moving on to lighter area. Be patient always protect virgin hair – regrowth.

Lifting the cuticle causes damage to the hair shaft. Rule use as little chemistry as possible, protect that condition get that hair Ph back to 5.5!

Test the hair: 

Do not remove colour if:

* Hair is extremely porous or slimy, does it stretch when wet? sort of cotton wool Like!

*Skin is broken and or sensitive.

*Do a stand test, do a skin test be safe.

Repeat performance:

In a perfect world we could say this is a one off service! But be prepared for follow up fine tuning to get the perfect results.

Decolourizer or Bleach  one of the key tools needed for corrective service when mixed with the correct volume of Hydrogen peroxide on the market now many really good colour removers. 

Finally:

Follow-up this involves. Recommending the correct products, to maintain the colour and hair condition it’s your prescription for success!

Book a follow up appointment. Within two weeks is ideal, so colour retention can be checked and adjusted if necessary!

Remember it’s a journey an adventure with the right tools knowledge and education correction can be fun!    { if you don’t have the skills and confidence seek help get the knowledge}

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Corrective Hair Colour issues:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR : Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                          Hair Colour Correction:

 

After a few days of postings hopefully providing information on many aspects of hair colouring.

From the Colour Wheel to Ph Chart . reviews of Pigment. Lift. Deposit. Tone developers timing.

With all the information provided one should have more knowledge to embark on corrective hair colour issues.

 

A huge topic how do you define or categorise it? What is classed as corrective colour? cause concerns Options:

Causes.

Client has Indulged in a cocktail hair colour party trying to get that salon look at home on the cheap! Or

Sadly a poorly done colour service done by an unskilled hairdresser.

A mixture of both of the above some salon visits some home colour therapy! Can and will result in need of expert help and advise.

What must we consider when Taking on a Corrective colour  challenge?

Do some salon over charge for this service? sadly yes in many cases!

Are all stylists qualified to do this service? certainly not many just don’t have the knowledge and experience!

Are clients punished because they need this service? Yes, quite often they can feel like they are being punished.

The key to successful colour correction are as follows:  

Firstly as a client consumer. If you find your self in this dire situation. I really think it’s time to take stock seek out professional advise from someone who knows what they are doing. A professional that you as a client can trust.A person that has your best interest at heart!

Please don’t just buy another box of instant over the counter wonderful fix!

If it’s a poorly done Job by a hairdresser. I would suggest refund go else where. I would not trust them to put right a wrong!

As a Stylist:

If you as a stylist don’t feel comfortable. Don’t feel you have the skills to do corrective work, be big enough to admit it! Drop the ego get the skill.

The Key to successful Correction. Is communication and honesty by all concerned. History, concerns,  reservations, Expectations, should all be discussed.

The Consultation

This must be an honest conversation. Both parties must decide on a goal and what can realistically be achieved! {it is worth noting that correction can take more than one visit}

A Commitment to work together for how ever long this journey might take.

During the consultation, a stylist must use all tools available to them. Ask as many questions as possible thus getting a full history of events running up to this point!

Touch and feel,visual study of the hair.{ look for banding. fading. build up. breakage.porosity.} 

Do a strand test. Healthy hair floats, over processed hair sinks. Hair that sinks will not hold colour! Step one is to re build that moisture level 

How ever challenging the correction is. How ever good you are. We all like a challenge and to show off!   { oh yes it’s correction so big earner!}  But make sure you know what you doing. Are your up to the task.

What is classed as corrective hair work? Badly done Colour, Wrong Colour or shade. Poor coverage issues. Over Deposit. Damage by over process long term abuse.

                                                                                           

Picture to the above is corrective from the first shot:

Colour added but existing Blonde utilised. Colours added all Demi formulation for deposit no lift

Stylist consider this 

If at the end of the day you don’t get a good feeling about. The client commitment or if it’s not going to be a good advert for your skill. Why take it on? EGO!

Think about this. Really damaged over processed hair, that is fading, falling apart a lot to take on. As soon as you agree to attempt to correct this you are saying. I take on full responsibility for this and all that has been done in the past!

A huge risk. Remember if it’s not going to be a good advert for you, that it can cause damage to your reputation. Hard as it is their is nothing wrong with saying. I’m sorry this is just to damaged to work with at this time. Recommend products see if there is commitment to work with you!

If the motivator is driven by your fee you should not be doing it!  

You should be thinking long term. This could be a long term relationship with a client. One who will trust you for ever, so be honest look at it as an investment! educate them.

The Next Step: 

So we have decided that we can and want to proceed:

Corrective Colour will usually be one or a combination of the following:

*Wrong level: the hair is to dark or too light.

*Wrong Tone: the hair is to warm {Orange} to cool {ash}

*Uneven colour: Dark ends. Lines of demarcation. light { hot} regrowth.

* Insufficient or poor Grey coverage.

* Colour that won’t holds on ends and or fade very quickly.

The key to understanding corrective colour is. The understanding of what pigment is missing from the hair. What needs to be replaced or removed?

Hair colour is about balance and harmony. Ask your self do i want utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? The chart below shows the relationship of tone and corrective tone. Remember that perfect balance of our primary colours Red, yellow, blue.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

You must learn to trust these charts to get the correct results:

It would not be possible to give an example of a corrective case, They are all different just way to many possibilities and things to watch out for.

Problems:

Colour may not be removed evenly over the entire head. Due mainly to varying porosity and build up. Always work from dark to light! Repeat on dark areas before moving on to lighter area. Be patient always protect virgin hair – regrowth.

Lifting the cuticle causes damage to the hair shaft. Rule use as little chemistry as possible, protect that condition get that hair Ph back to 5.5!

Test the hair: 

Do not remove colour if:

* Hair is extremely porous or slimy, does it stretch when wet? sort of cotton wool Like!

*Skin is broken and or sensitive.

*Do a stand test, do a skin test be safe.

Repeat performance:

In a perfect world we could say this is a one off service! But be prepared for follow up fine tuning to get the perfect results.

Decolourizer or Bleach  one of the key tools needed for corrective service when mixed with the correct volume of Hydrogen peroxide on the market now many really good colour removers. 

Finally:

Follow-up this involves. Recommending the correct products, to maintain the colour and hair condition it’s your prescription for success!

Book a follow up appointment. Within two weeks is ideal, so colour retention can be checked and adjusted if necessary!

Remember it’s a journey an adventure with the right tools knowledge and education correction can be fun!   { if you don’t have the skills and confidence seek help get the knowledge}

 

Tags: , , , ,

Hair stylist’s, we are the product. Service!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

I find the more I write and think about topic’s to keep my little blog up to date and interesting. The more I reflect on. What it means to me! what I can offer! What can I share to keep them current and interesting:

In working through this thought process it brings me back to the key point of what we all do and offer service.

Yes it’s skill it’s knowledge it’s communication but none of this matters if we don’t offer. Good service and good value for money service. Value for money does not mean discount or cheap just value.

What is the product we market?

It’s our skill, creativity, knowledge. ability to listen to communicate, honesty,

Oh yes and that all important consultation.

We are in the business of offering advise we are also specialist in solving problems!

So we are in a very unique business.

We have a wonderful opportunity to use the many skills gained, utilise the tools at our disposal to do our job to apply our trade. We have the ability to turn a bad day into a good day from disaster into success powerful stuff.

We have to think of ourselves as being totally unique in the service we offer and the skill we have for we are all different we all react in different ways this does not mean we are not part of a team and as such should not share thoughts idea’s we just all have something different to offer a different way of doing things.

The way we present our selves the appearance we project are all part of the personal image package that  is ‘I’ or ‘You’ this initial presentation is very important for it say this is me this is who i am!!!

So what are we selling what are we promoting:

This is easy ourselves our skill, talent, creativity, we are expert in the business of creating image a look experts in finding solutions to problems having answers to question.

Because we are all so very different and as such offer our trade in our own unique way none of us will suite everyone personality issues conflict will always exist so when it happens don’t take it to heart it only becomes personal if you let it! [ so be the bigger person ] a little humility is ok this does not make you a door mat.

Something we as stylist also need to at least be aware of  as gain success get busy get a reputation is Ego just keep it in check a little ego is healthy but to much…………..! not so good.

So to be a good communicator a problem solver what tools do we need? Knowledge is the key here!

Knowledge is power.

With so many different products on the market especially with hair colour both professional and Home kits, and now an onslaught of new Nano technology [ this new hip term} prior to this every thing was multifaceted, What ever the wording the lingo we have be on top of it we have to be up to date with new products new formulations how and why they work,how do we do this ?

Education, training up dates, sharing, and by asking questions?? thing some of us are not so good at!

Remember this the only stupid question is the one we don’t ask!

Be informed have knowledge be a problem solver not a problem maker!

As always thoughts comments idea’s please,

Mike

To this ends we are given the challenge some time to correct badly coloured hair this could be from either a poor professional job or a hope colour gone wrong.

Colour correction is a skill knowing how to re-balance a pigment mantle as a stylist only embark on this if you have the skill and knowledge to take on the responsibility. As a client work with choose some one you trust for this journey. Also get an estimate of both cost and timing for said correction. have a consultation be informed.

As a follow on from yesterdays posting after correction care:

Post Home Haircoloring Tips:                                                    

                                                  [ right pretty bad almost green hair! ]    

                                                                        before shot                 

Recommendations post-colour tips: 

It is recommended to wait 48 hours before washing your hair again after the initial color treatment is completed.  This gives new hues time to settle.

Always shampoo with lukewarm water.  Hot water will speed up color fading.

Use hair products specifically designed to protect coloured hair get professional advise.  Remember that some shampoo products designed to add volume will actually “blow up” the cuticle and thus cause hues to fade much faster.  Use products that are specifically labeled as “colour safe”

Shampoo less often.  Even permanent colors will fade faster with frequent washings.

Avoid the use of hot styling tools as much as possible.  Heat from either appliances or the sun will speed up color loss. When possible, air dry coloured strands.

When out in the sun or when swimming in a pool hats! Sun, surf, sand all the S things and pool chemicals may leach out precious tones or in some cases, cause color to fade or even worse, turn brassy or odd shades of green or orange.

Treat colored hair with care and respect invest in good quality products.that work within your budget   and remember to deep condition on a regular basis to counteract dryness.

Resist the urge to recolor again before at least 2 weeks has passed.  Remember, less is more.

 Avoid any other chemical processes for at least one month.  Keep in mind that perms or chemical straightening procedures may cause hair colors to be altered.

I would always recommend doing a skin test prior to any application it’s always best to be safe.

{ make over from above shot}

With some though sight and thinking it is possible to go from a muddy sludge to vibrant colour just takes time and patients:

In Closing:

If you plan on becoming a home hair colour jockey, consider starting a special journal or notebook so you can write down a record of each treatment.  Note the products that you used and the results.Over time you may discover little tricks that make your colouring techniques more streamlined or successful.

I hope this guide is helpful and saves some of the pit falls that can happen when entering the world of home hair colour and correction if required.

Mike B2MR

 

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