RSS

Tag Archives: colour

More of a hair fashion great link


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

This is just a good place as a reference for looks colours style fashion.

 

http://www.squidoo.com/topics/fashion-and-beauty/hair-care-and-style

Advertisements
 
Comments Off on More of a hair fashion great link

Posted by on April 1, 2012 in Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, elegant evening /party looks, Make over, up do'd

 

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Hair colouring and techniques idea’s


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

 Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                             sharing thoughts

Over the years hair coloring techniques have changed with the times with the demands. From. Fashion trends. The constant demands for new looks for individual looks requiring new techniques and skills, that allow us to create new looks to correct and possible camouflage poorly or badly done hair colour.

In some cases colour that is so badly done or damaged. That the last resort calls for radical action maybe a perky cut or as a last resort a wig. Yes this can and does happen. but it should not it need not! how ever extreme a look it can still have a eye stopping edge and look great!

Formerly lightening/lifting jet-black hair would mean hours of bleaching.This would leave hair in. Poor condition. Unhealthy and over processed. Often with orange red mid-lengths and ends. With yellow roots more straw like than anything close to blonde. In some cases those looking for strawberry blond commonly end up with some shade of red or copper.

We now have some colour removing products on the market. These are worth considering when wanting to go from light to dark but always do a strand test. Get professional advise or a consultation.For those wanting to try a darker shade. Without care thought and attention to the process a Gothic look caused from going to dark can happen. Bad hair, Bad High lights is quite common place!

Modern hair coloring techniques and liberation of colour and appearance have made fire-engine red a fashion trend for some. Instead of a hair coloring catastrophe this can be a acceptable life saver now days when the removal of dark hair fails and a red hue takes over. It’s is possible over time working with your client to change both look and colour. [ above shot and below same model]

Modern hair coloring techniques can when done correctly add true dimension and tone working with the  natural movement and swing of your hair cut and style.

Highlights and low lights are just a few of the choices that enhance both your hair your face style and appearance.  In addition hair coloring techniques include paneling and chunks, semi permanent and Demi permanent colour to refresh and brighten colour as it fades.

Types of Hair Coloring Techniques


Highlights:

Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brighten and add shine. Highlights work best on blonde to warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied with permanent hair color, but after time should be carried out colour balancing by addressing root issues and refreshing the previous colour with a gentle formulation

Problems can and will arise when continued permanent colour is continuously laid over previously coloured hair.

Low lights:

A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color.  low lights add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a dramatic, trendy look. this process can be applied with various shades can also be very effective when wanting to add darker shades of colour putting darker low lights can add as much dimension and tone as introducing lighter shade.

It is worth noting. That when going tone on tone and darker that a Demi formulation is sufficient when going darker we do not have to lift hair as part of the process. a common mistake made! if you go darker with a permanent colour you will introduce warmth to the chosen shade!

Refreshing: 

Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a richer tone over a permanent shade.

Paneling /Chunks: 

Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. or dramatic Blonde it is a hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding vibrant shades and bright  trendy colors to natural hair color.

Hair Coloring Technique Processes
 that are used most often are highlighting and low lights. Many different methods are used to achieve this effect. It’s my opinion the one that needs the least skill, is when your stylist pulls small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances your basic hair color the cap tends to not get as close to the root as other techniques and the holes dictate where the highlight goes with a cap only one shade can be applied at a time.

Foiling: 

Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root. many different techniques and products for this method papers foil it is favored by professionals and colour technicians.

freehand painting:

A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific areas and hand paints them with color. working with the wave and the way the hair naturally falls this  technique creates a dramatic implementation of a hair coloring technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance!

It’s important to note that although kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques. Professional stylists have the skill that comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like Grey, platinum, and black hair. It would be recommended to consult a professional if you intend to try a new hair color technique at home!  products designed for home use do not perform in the same manner as professional colour and techniques and application come with training and experience.

For many blog topic’s and to leave comment join and follow oh have fun but be professional. thanks Mike B2MR

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Make over Colour correction and re style


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?

Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.

This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.

This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.

Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:

After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.

My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!

Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

It may seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.

The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took.Time and patients. Communication Consultation. That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.

Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Make over Colour correction and re style

Posted by on October 20, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Hair colour. How and why it works


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

Hair Colour pigment lift deposit. Following on from yesterdays hair structure article. This should make for a good follow up and bring things together.

The Relationship between. Natural hair colour, Hydrogen peroxide, and Permanent colour is a complex one.

 

                                                       lets talk colour.

This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour, their are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost the consultation, a time to gain as much information and history as possible, a time for some honest and frank questions.

Before we can consider away forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of this head, assess amount of Grey if any, discuss goals and targets .Are they realistic? Are they achievable?

It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

 

Permanent colour. This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.

The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results.

We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

What makes it challenging

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

 

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

 

                                     Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.

10 volume or 3% Peroxide:

In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

 

 

 

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

10=yellow

9=yellow orange

8= orange

7=red orange

6= Red

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

 

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

 

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

 

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system,

Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

 

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

FACT:  Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction, with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

Take the time to understand and trust the colour wheel, make choices and decision based on. skill, knowledge, not on guess work and ego.

Note:  Not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

 

Tags: , , ,

Highlights,lowlights multi tonal hair colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

 

Low Light Colour a technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades:

How can one create this look?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look.  So it’s back to that consultation if in the salon both stylist and client have to be honest about goals expectation and out come! Or  if home application being honest with yourself with regard to past applications and what you expect from this wonder box!! oh and leave the wine to one side!

 

There are man formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required.The tone and shade being used. The shade and tone expected as the final look.

Lets use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde. One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured  or never processed hair.

The Look tends to be a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair.

In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots, for the sake of this lets not go to complicated. So we will presume grown out Highlights and low lights. This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is creating a lighter brighter look lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very bright ends. Ombre technique.

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colour would be

to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer.

I would suggest using on our pre-coloured hair  three different levels of Bleach decolouriser fading them into each other. How? You may ask.

Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions.

2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.

You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to.

Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade  desired. If going darker you will not leave lift only a Demi formulation.

If wanting lighter or richer more vibrant some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history.

But again play with both colour and level of peroxide. Just remember as you up the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! yes a balancing act. over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour!

 

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice here is my choice and suggestion.

Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

So my choice would be 8A or 9A .why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

 

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time think through both. Timing, application, formulation, use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique.

You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

 

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation.

remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would  use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area. So two different formulation on each weave.

have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results. Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Highlights,lowlights multi tonal hair colour

Posted by on September 2, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , ,

Dark hair. Brunette to Natural looking Blonde.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

 

 

How do you go from brunette to blonde? 

What are the pit falls things to look out for when going from dark to light shade ? How blonde can you go? What shade should you expect to achieve from a brunette level 4 to5? I raise this questions because skin tone. Eye colour.  play such a key role when switching colour.

Brunette to Blonde can certainly have it’s challenges. Having decided to go lighter the question becomes. How blonde you want to go? You then have to decide on all over colour or highlights? If your hair is Naturally Brunette level 4 to 5 then the lighter you go. The more issues of warmth will come in to the equation.  This warmth will normally present as. Red orange . Orange .Yellow orange. Also roots or regrowth have to be considered.

Brunette natural lifted 4 levels still very warm.

As you lift your hair the pigment it contains is exposed. So as you lift from natural level the first tone you will see is Red. Second level would be Red with orange hue. Third level would be orange. Forth level orange yellow. This amount of lift would normally be about 4 levels. Depending on the level we are staring from we can choose our target level of colour and shade.  With high lift colour and using the pigment it contains to control tone exposed pigment. Any thing lighter than four levels will require Pre-lightening.

Consider what shade you want. Maybe highlights and low lights would give you a lighter but more natural look. Lots to consider.

If very dark hair maybe Asian. Oriental. 1st Nation native or previously coloured then unwanted pigment will be an issue.

 

pre lightened and high lighted

I strongly suggest a professional consultation before embarking on this. It’s not just slap on the shade indicate don the box.

If your hair has been coloured to a Brunette shade and your wanting to go Blonde you really need help you could end up with a hair night mare. Many issues when doing this procedure. Be warned you could end up with yellow roots orange mid lengths and red ends!! Consultation honest advise good service from a knowledgeable Styling and technical team.

 

 

Some the issues raised, have covered in past blogs and topic’s  Lift deposit . Tone. Highlighting and Blonde looks feel free to look at back issues or ask question via blog contact.

Considering how light to go can take some thought. Hold light swatches against your skin. Hey try wigs you will be amazed how skin colour. Eye colour. Changes when you lighten your hair.

Also make up and indeed choice of clothing colour shade and style might have to be thought about.

Good luck be brave but consider it harder to go light and get the right shade than going back to natural or darker!

A use full link on controlling shade pigment tone.

 

 

 

 

 

How dark? How blonde? much to Consider. Just remember skin colour, eye colour, Pigment and tone.

have your stylist explain this to you.

Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Dark hair. Brunette to Natural looking Blonde.

Posted by on August 8, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , , , ,

Our love of hair colour. All things natural.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Our Love with Hair colour:

Be it organic based all natural or synthetic our love of hair Colour is never ending so we need to be well informed.

Here are some facts and useful basic information.

 

                                                 Primary Colours: Pure Colour.

 

 

These are pure Colours they cannot be made by mixing others Colours together.

We use colour. To describe people and emotions. e.g Green with envy, feeling  down feeling Blue, seeing Red, Red with anger.

Colour surrounds us constantly changing sky. Blooming flowers.

A world with out colour would be a very dull world indeed. We even use colour to describe how we feel warm cold excited tranquil.

We use hair colour. To describe people. We have all been guilty of Stereotyping people because by hair colour. Their look.

 

The Big debate.  Gentlemen prefer Blondes! Blondes have more fun! or do they just get noticed quicker? or as suggested in some circle,  ‘Just get dirty quicker’!

The Fire associated with red heads hot head out spoken, head strong! or is it self confidence?

The Brunette. Safe Approachable. Natural, health. Inwardly content? maybe.

Throughout the ages we have explored different products some natural some chemical to dye and stain our hair be it short term or longer lasting.

 


Examples of these would be as follows:

True vegetable Dyes: The are derived from Herbs. Plants . Flowers. Vegetables and Bark.

As a note. These natural alternatives. Do not contain Alkaline be that Ammonia. MEA or products produced from grain Alcohol added to them.

They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine.

Advantages. Natural stain will not enter hair shaft may build up over time. Disadvantage will not cover Grey hair.

TIP Vegetable rinses and Infusions should not be used on Chemically treated hair!

 


Henna as a Colour

Red Henna comes from. The dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.

Natural henna comes from the crushed root.

Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products with formulation that have contained Ammonia. Hydrogen Peroxide.

if in any doubt  do a strand test. Strong dis coloration. An unpleasant smell no colour change. Uneven results down hair shaft. In some case applying permanent colour over the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!

 

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!

Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.

{Again before attempting any new colour strand test is essential!}

 

                                                   SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR

Rich dark Chocolate Brown!
Semi permanent Colour will make the same hair depth as the Natural base shade, good for changing tones gold,red, copper, Burgundy,

It works by depositing relatively small colour Molecules in the hair [Red molecule is the largest of all] these products generally have a Ph around 8 to 9 so they do open the cuticle a little, over time can build up and stain ! But in normal case they fade with shampooing as it’s only a partial deposit.

Used a a good introduction with clients to colour. {remember results will vary given hair type, condition, clients colour history, the chemistry of the product, sadly some colour companies mislead us} 

  

Advantages:

Useful for enhancing hair colour or refreshing tint applications. adds shine and Gloss.ideal for bold fashion statement . Safe to use on Permed hair .

Disadvantage:

Wash out four to six weeks depending on frequency of washing. Result can be patchy uneven, cannot lighten hair. Over time may build up causing longer term staining.



Permanent Colour: 

Permanent hair colour affords us the ultimate service: allowing us the choices of infinite shades full Grey coverage. These dyes lighten the hairs natural melanin and tint at the same time. These Dyes will only become effective when mixed with hydrogen peroxide a topic i will cover down the road but at this juncture i will advise the level of peroxide one chooses can and will effect the colour you choose and final result on so many levels! normally comes in  strengths of 10. 3% 20.6% 30.9% 40.12%Volume  Hydrogen Peroxide comes in levels up to 100% nothing more than 40% is recommended for hair application.

[At this point i think things will get to technical if i out line how this process works contact me to discuss}

Problems to watch out for:

Colour fade  this is generally due to the cuticle being raised or damaged. allowing the colour wash out and fade.  This can be result of over processing porosity and Ph of the hair. 

Another huge mistake many make when doing permanent colour is a root-regrowth application and then combing through that same formulation after a period of time to the mid-lenghts and ends. this leads to muddy colour and over processing one should always colour balance.{ topic for future discussion}.


                                                          Rich reds are possible.


 

Hair resistant to colour:

Strong white or Grey or cause thick  hair the cuticle scales packed close together. In this instance we might need to pre-soften one school of thought is to run 10 vol 3%through the hair leave for 20 mins rinse cool water prior to applying colour.

I think That given that 10 Vol 3% alone could still give some lift and given that Grey hair still holds pigment I might suggest an alternative.

Having chosen you desired natural target level mix as a pre-soften solution 1 part N series{target level} with 1.5 or 1 1/2 times water leave for 20 mins. after this apply your target colour directly  over this  application. {proceed as normal root application colour balance.}

 

Natural Blonde looks with highlights

Advantages :

permanently changes hair colour,

Can lighten and tone at the same time,

100%Grey coverage,

wide choice colour, versatility,

Disadvantages:

requires Client commitment to regular process,

Colour fade especially if hair is or becomes over processed.

Risk of skin allergy irritation : {always do skin test}

In my next blog I will talk about peroxide hair Lift, exposing different pigment in the hair, becoming part of the colour equation,

 

 

Many colours can be added to create texture and dimension,

Cool red, natural blonde, beige, we just need to consider the head of hair we are working on.

Finally in these days of hot straitening irons, craving for the sun, Chlorine build up we have to be super careful.

Condition protect cover up ! have fun Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Our love of hair colour. All things natural.

Posted by on August 2, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

 
%d bloggers like this: