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Grey hair Embrace it work with it!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Grey Hair: This is such a huge topic so many option so quite a long article:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by both men and women as this silver threads start to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must go. women of all ages dread the day the first one shows up!

It does not have to all be bad! 

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Think about it. Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey? Why is it such a social stigma, why is it seen as not caring letting one self go! Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. Should We. Can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?} Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether? Genetic? Any all or some of the above!

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our mid to late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change. It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives. Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair. When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey. Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks. Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.

The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful. As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed. The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger. That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly. I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work. I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.
“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned” and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey they have the most horrible patches of it. Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey
and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           
Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, Instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer} If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them. In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation. As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote
Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/
Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂
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Hair colour correction challenges


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR : Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                   Hair Colour Correction:

I have decide this week to post topic’s on. Bleaching. Toning. and of course colour correction. Colour correction that journey into the unknown. That adventure that we have to be fully prepared for. the one that can and will at some point challenge us all.

To succeed we need. Knowledge.Skill. Technical ability. Good products and what? Communication and consultation skills. Colour correction starts with consultation!

Elasticity.Porosity.Moisture level. Overall condition key to successful out come and application.

An honest consultation who wants to end up with! An over processed shapeless mess!hardly an endorsement of ones skill or ability.

After a few days of postings hopefully providing information on many aspects of hair colouring.From the colour wheel to Ph Chart . reviews of Pigment. Lift. Deposit. Tone developers timing.With all the information provided one should have more knowledge to embark on corrective hair colour issues.

A huge topic how do you define or categorise it? What is classed as corrective colour? cause concerns Options:

Causes.

Client has Indulged in a cocktail hair colour party trying to get that salon look at home on the cheap! Or Sadly a poorly done colour service done by an unskilled hairdresser.

A mixture of both of the above some salon visits some home colour therapy! Can and will result in need of expert help and advise.

What must we consider when Taking on a Corrective colour  challenge?

Do some salon over charge for this service? sadly yes in many cases!

Are all stylists qualified to do this service? certainly not many just don’t have the knowledge and experience!

Are clients punished because they need this service? Yes, quite often they can feel like they are being punished.

The key to successful colour correction are as follows:  

Firstly as a client consumer. If you find your self in this dire situation. I really think it’s time to take stock seek out professional advise from someone who knows what they are doing. A professional that you as a client can trust.A person that has your best interest at heart!

Please don’t just buy another box of instant over the counter wonderful fix!

If it’s a poorly done Job by a hairdresser. I would suggest refund go else where. I would not trust them to put right a wrong!

As a Stylist:

If you as a stylist don’t feel comfortable. Don’t feel you have the skills to do corrective work, be big enough to admit it! Drop the ego get the skill.

The Key to successful Correction. Is communication and honesty by all concerned. History, concerns,  reservations, Expectations, should all be discussed.

The Consultation

This must be an honest conversation. Both parties must decide on a goal and what can realistically be achieved! {it is worth noting that correction can take more than one visit}

A Commitment to work together for how ever long this journey might take.

During the consultation, a stylist must use all tools available to them. Ask as many questions as possible thus getting a full history of events running up to this point!

Touch and feel,visual study of the hair.{ look for banding. fading. build up. breakage.porosity.} 

Do a strand test. Healthy hair floats, over processed hair sinks. Hair that sinks will not hold colour! Step one is to re build that moisture level 

How ever challenging the correction is. How ever good you are. We all like a challenge and to show off!   { oh yes it’s correction so big earner!}  But make sure you know what you doing. Are your up to the task.

What is classed as corrective hair work? Badly done Colour, Wrong Colour or shade. Poor coverage issues. Over Deposit. Damage by over process long term abuse.                                                                                         

Picture to the above is corrective from the first shot:

Colour added but existing Blonde utilised. Colours added all Demi formulation for deposit no lift

Stylist consider this 

If at the end of the day you don’t get a good feeling about. The client commitment or if it’s not going to be a good advert for your skill. Why take it on? EGO!

Think about this. Really damaged over processed hair, that is fading, falling apart a lot to take on. As soon as you agree to attempt to correct this you are saying. I take on full responsibility for this and all that has been done in the past!

A huge risk. Remember if it’s not going to be a good advert for you, that it can cause damage to your reputation. Hard as it is their is nothing wrong with saying. I’m sorry this is just to damaged to work with at this time. Recommend products see if there is commitment to work with you!

If the motivator is driven by your fee you should not be doing it!  

You should be thinking long term. This could be a long term relationship with a client. One who will trust you for ever, so be honest look at it as an investment! educate them.

The Next Step: 

So we have decided that we can and want to proceed:

Corrective Colour will usually be one or a combination of the following:

*Wrong level: the hair is to dark or too light.

*Wrong Tone: the hair is to warm {Orange} to cool {ash}

*Uneven colour: Dark ends. Lines of demarcation. light { hot} regrowth.

* Insufficient or poor Grey coverage.

* Colour that won’t holds on ends and or fade very quickly.

The key to understanding corrective colour is. The understanding of what pigment is missing from the hair. What needs to be replaced or removed?

Hair colour is about balance and harmony. Ask your self do i want utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? The chart below shows the relationship of tone and corrective tone. Remember that perfect balance of our primary colours Red, yellow, blue.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow}So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

You must learn to trust these charts to get the correct results:

It would not be possible to give an example of a corrective case, They are all different just way to many possibilities and things to watch out for.

Problems:

Colour may not be removed evenly over the entire head. Due mainly to varying porosity and build up. Always work from dark to light! Repeat on dark areas before moving on to lighter area. Be patient always protect virgin hair – regrowth.

Lifting the cuticle causes damage to the hair shaft. Rule use as little chemistry as possible, protect that condition get that hair Ph back to 5.5!

Test the hair: 

Do not remove colour if:

* Hair is extremely porous or slimy, does it stretch when wet? sort of cotton wool Like!

*Skin is broken and or sensitive.

*Do a stand test, do a skin test be safe.

Repeat performance:

In a perfect world we could say this is a one off service! But be prepared for follow up fine tuning to get the perfect results.

Decolourizer or Bleach  one of the key tools needed for corrective service when mixed with the correct volume of Hydrogen peroxide on the market now many really good colour removers. 

Finally:

Follow-up this involves. Recommending the correct products, to maintain the colour and hair condition it’s your prescription for success!

Book a follow up appointment. Within two weeks is ideal, so colour retention can be checked and adjusted if necessary!

Remember it’s a journey an adventure with the right tools knowledge and education correction can be fun!    { if you don’t have the skills and confidence seek help get the knowledge}

 

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Highlights and low lights techniques.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience. and most importantly sharing.

The art of hair colouring is a passion to me. As it is with so many hair colour technician’s. True professionals know that having both the technical and practical skills are key to being successful. Maintaining standards and being current is also key.

I would like to try and cover some points that relate to high lighting, with the various products available to us! when we think High lights we are naturally drawn to thinking Blonde. Consider adding more natural tone sand shades . Mixing low lights and high lights.

It seems as I monitor key search words that the most searched topic’s that come up are always relating to issues around blonde hair highlights bleach and tone.The other key search being searches on all topic’s related to the colour wheel the law’s of colour controlling pigment shade and tone.

I hope that although a topic written on many times this is of help and pushes some buttons regarding process and techniques skill and understanding.

In am fortunate that I get to meet so many salons and so to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. I like to watch techniques hang out with technician chatting about techniques and products. Always trying to discover a stylist’s favourite. what is the current chosen product. Many use foils some use easy mesh. I use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding as much as some other products might during the process time and as the product expands. A thing that can happen with foil easy mesh or many of the products available to us, especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced.

One of the biggest thing I observe with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken attention to detail. Those being foil placement formulation application. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired. But we also have to consider the evenness of the weave desired thick fine ect. The cleanness of section.The application of product. oh and formulation.

We have to remember that when taking section we are not working on a flat surface it’s curved so we have to structure out sectioning pattern to accommodate this plain.

However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to! consider all the curves as indicated below.

Lets take some time to reflect and review on sectioning and placement :

My question is on sectioning it’s hard to write about i wish i had a way to draw on screen any way here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!

when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.

The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.

The below although for cutting indicates well the sections and angles discussed.

How do we get round this? By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.

take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Look at those roots that re-growth consider formulation how you are going to run your colour to deal with root issue. Try not to over lap any bleach! decide on your weave pattern. Discuss with your client the look .Highlights thick streaks fine weave high light and low lights final goal!

How do your Highlights stack up ! maybe you should take a little more time with placement sectioning foil placement!

I speak from experience I used to book highlights back to back i could weave full head in just over half an hour.  Would I do this now ‘No’ it’s not the way to work to do things or get the best results.

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections it all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

If you are interested in the waxed high light papers here is some contact information for you.

Also a useful link for the papers:          http://www.sparenity.com/

Hope these tip helps to some degree. Feed back and comments are always welcome on content and or future topic’s it helps keep things current.

Mike B2MR

 

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Natural hair colour Pigment lift and tone.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

As a follow on from the posting yesterday on the N series a more technical look at the issue.

Natural hair colour and trying to recreate it can be a challenge for some why? It’s that balance between pigment lift and tone. Chosen colour formulation and timing.

Patient’s and knowledge, skill, honestly, caring,

As a stylist do you  understand the ‘Law of Color’ ?  As they relate to hair colouring?Yes Laws? Oh your one of those hands on stylist who are fortunate enough to know everything. who don’t need to know or understand the law’s of colour. Your a free spirited artist!  Your just someone with a huge Ego who muddles along getting bye with hit and miss colouring mishaps! A stylist who when things go wrong blames the product! How and why understanding and indeed trusting the colour wheel is so important to succeed.

Hair color is an art.  The natural laws as they relate to hair colour  apply to everybody everywhere. They work off of a Natural scale of hair depth and tone one to ten. The  higher the number lighter the shade or level. Laws are simple they are  beyond one’s control they never require a second guess or questioning. Never the less we still insist on the odd experiment to verify them. When you come to accept the law of  colour cannot be broken then you learn to trust it, you always know the outcome. The laws of hair color  are important and often very neglected. It’s imperative that all professional hair stylists know why we do what we do. Why do you choose the color you do to use on your client?

When you as a stylist take the time to learn the universal laws of hair color. You will be better equipped to work with and advise your client on the best course of action and an ideal formulation for them.

What is color?

Color is light and pigment. When we color someone’s hair with the right choice of colour, we can emphasize their skin tone and eye color. When we understand these laws and trust them we can grow and improve. understanding is one thing trust is much more! We will never have to guess the outcome of our  results will always feel in control confident and professional.

Essentials of Color

There are three essential traits of color.  Working from a natural level. The any given natural level will always have a hue: a leaning towards one of the primary colours found in the hair example. red, yellow, blue. The percentage of the hue is called saturation. Gold or copper is a good example of a low percentage (saturation) of red. Tone is the lightness or darkness of a color. For example, Copper is a tone of Red with a percentage of Yellow and indeed in some case a tinge of Blue. Balance always

The Color Wheel

There are three primary colors: Blue, Red, Yellow.

They are called primary because all other colors are made from them. 

The secondary colors:

Blue + Red = Violet, Red + Yellow = Orange,  and Yellow + Blue = Green

Tertiary colors are made by mixing the primary and secondary colors together. There are six possible combination’s. They are yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, and yellow-green.

Two colors are called complimentary colors if when mixed together they produce a neutral color.  They are located opposite from each other on the color wheel. When you mix any color with their complimentary color:

You will produce a neutral or browned-out color. sometimes Mud is created.

A colorist should not only always consult and understand the color wheel.

It is a tool that will be used almost every time you color a client’s hair. It will help you create colors with a better understanding of utilising and neutralising pigment and tone.  contrasting colors are placed directly across from their opposite.  This is very important since it is necessary to know which colors can be used to “neutralise” or “brown-out” undesired tones.

A good example of this and indeed a common issue for stylists is neutralising unwanted orange and yellow tones in the hair. When you know and understand the color wheel and can see that violet is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, you can then choose a violet pigment in order to neutralize the yellow.  Violet being a even mix of red and blue. these will restore balance to unwanted yellow  creating a natural tone. If the unwanted color is orange, you can see that blue is the color to use to neutralize the unwanted tone. Orange being made up or Yellow and Red so blue is required to restore balance.See it;s easy common sense and understanding.

The color wheel is also separated into warm and cool colors. Blue (one of our three primary colors) is the coolest cool color and is also the darkest. It generally lives at a level three, masking out both gold and warm red tones or Hue!  The more blue that is added to your hair color the more it will produce a darker, cooler tone. Red or yellow (our other primary colours) are warm colors. Adding red to your hair color formula will create a warmer tone. Just as blue is the darkest cool toned color, yellow is the lightest warm toned color. Adding yellow to your color formula will always produce a lighter, brighter color. depending on the level you are working at Yellow normally comes out to play between the natural level 7 to 10 any level darker than this the yellow will be over powered by either the Red or Blue Pigment.

This is such a huge topic that one can expand on when introducing the effects of lift from chosen formulation and level strength of hydrogen peroxide or developer. These lifting agents will expose pigment as they lift the hair in the colour process adding warmth from the hair to your formulation.

So again understanding the colour wheel really is key.

Good luck Mike B2MR

 

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New year new look ready for blonde


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

New year perfect time to think Blonde

With the start of the new year, why not consider stepping things up a colour change or just re vamp to brighten than colour !

The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That natural looking bright holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan for that feel good look.

If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look? Some blondes can be subtle honey or golden others well just full on blonde.

What works for you? what shade do you like?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.

Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while. How about from red head to honey blonde!

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.

Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or long fringe or bangs!

Formal up do with lots of colour and tone to create dimension and texture .

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.

Mike B2MR

 

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Grey hair: questions answers to the age old issue!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 Grey Hair:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by men and women as this nasty stuff starts to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must Go.

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

The challenges for the stylist are correct assessment of the Grey hair percentage on the head during the consultation process. Type of hair, fine course ect. Formulation required. client’s goals expectation.Ongoing maintenance! Lots to be considered and discussed.

Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey?

Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. The social stigma grey hair indicates old age!

Should we- can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

 What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?}

Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether?

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change.

It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives.

Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair.

When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey.

Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks.

Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful.

As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed.

The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger.

That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly.

I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work.

I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.

“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned”

 and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey

 they have the most horrible patches of it.

Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey

and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another

approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into

the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you

are mad when you suggest this.

             Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           

Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer}

If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them.

In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation.

As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote

 Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/

Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂

 

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Hair colouring the Chemistry. How it works.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Through out history man has coloured his or her hair from using tribal muds and stains to the days of fancy pre dyed and styled wigs. Discovering permanent ways to alter and colour our own hair. Having an understanding of how this process works is key to attaining good results without causing damage or having a hair disaster.
A French chemist Eugene Schuller. Discovered the first safe commercial hair colour around the early 1900’s. Using chemical paraphenylenediamine.
Today with over 75% of women coloring their hair to some degree or another. With either help form a professional hair colour technician or by applying store purchased home colour  It is also now more widely acceptable that a growing percentage of men now also colour their hair .
With society so acceptable of hair colour how does it work? What is the hair colour process.
It’s a finally balanced series of chemical reactions between the molecules in the hair structure, the natural pigments that make up the hair’s colour. Along with a formulation that may also contain. A peroxide and ammonia or some other form of alkaline to help make the process work.
What is Hair?

Hair is mainly keratin, the same protein found in skin and fingernails. When warm and wet it’s soft and pliable. When dry or heated it hardens and protects the hair’s inner structure.

The natural color of hair depends on the ratio and quantities of two other proteins, eumelanin and phaeomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for brown to black hair shades while phaeomelanin is responsible for golden blond, ginger, and red colors. The absence of either type of melanin produces white or grey hair pigment deficient. It is having an understanding of these pigments that is key to successful hair colouring .Do we want to utilise or neutralise the pigment’s as we expose them in the lifting process.This in simple terms is do we want to sue the pigment to enrich the colour and shade or do we want to control or mask it!

Natural Colorants

As I stated at the start of this topic man and different cultures have been coloring their hair for thousands of years. Using plants extracts and minerals. It is these pigments found in such products as  (e.g., henna, black walnut shells beetroot juice.) others contain natural bleaching agents or cause reactions that change the color of hair (e.g., vinegar lemon juice). Natural pigments generally work by coating the hair shaft with colour  they coat the outer shaft some times lasting for several shampoos, however they aren’t necessarily safer or more gentle than modern formulations. So can have metallic salts in them. Some can and will build up on the hair.In some cases they cannot be removed.  It’s difficult to get consistent results using natural colorants, Skin test is alway recommended even with these so called natural products

Temporary Hair Color

Temporary or semi-permanent haircolors may deposit acidic dyes or direct dyes onto the outside of the hair shaft .Direct dyes are fully matured and so are to big to be readily absorbed into the inner hair structure.unless an amount of an alkaline is present to open the cuticle. In some cases smaller  pigment molecules are used they can more readerly slip inside the hair shaft  some using a small amount of peroxide.

If peroxide is used in  a product one should expect some lifting of the hair natural level and possible warmth from said lifting of the pigment. or none at all depending on formulation. In some cases, a collection of several colorant molecules enter the hair to form a larger complex inside the hair shaft. Shampooing will eventually dislodge temporary hair color. These products don’t contain ammonia,  but may have some other form of alkaline in them. If an alkaline is present the deposit will be more long lasting that normal temporary colour.

In normal temporary colour the hair shaft isn’t opened up during processing and the hair’s natural color is retained once the product washes out.

How Lightening Works

Bleach is used to lighten hair. The bleach reacts with the melanin in hair, removing the color in an irreversible chemical reaction. Normally after bleaching toning will be required to some degree to neutralise unwanted undertone exposed. The bleach oxidizes the natural melanin molecule. The melanin is still present, but the oxidized molecule is colourless.  Bleached hair that is fully lifted of pigment will retain a pale yellow hue. The yellow colour is the natural colour of keratin, the structural protein in hair.

Bear in mind bleach reacts more readily with the dark eumelanin pigment than with the phaeomelanin. Some gold or red residual colour may remain after lightening,again tis is when toning may be required to rebalance the pigment exposed.

Hydrogen peroxide is one of the most common lightening agents. The peroxide is used in an alkaline solution, which opens the hair shaft to allow the peroxide to react with the melanin lifting it in degree’s depending on the strength of peroxide timing and formulation.Of course it will also vary depending on the natural level of the hair .the darker the hair the more lift will be required and so the longer it will take to get a desired level of lift.The darker the shade the more red and orange you will have to contend with when trying to get to that pale yellow. required if you want a very blonde tone!

Permanent Hair Color

The outer layer of the hair shaft is the cuticle or order to permanently change the hair  colour and for new artificial colour to be deposited into the hair we have to open this cuticle.  We open the cuticle by using an alkaline and raising the hair’s natural Ph from around 5.5 up to around 7 in some cases higher levels are used this can and will damage the hair and lead to poor colour retention. The dye reacts with the inner portion of the hair, the cortex, to deposit or remove the color. Most permanent hair colours use a two-step process normally they work simultaneously. First removes the original colour of the hair at the same time depositing the new color. It’s essentially the same process as lightening, except a colorant is then bonded within the hair shaft.

Ammonia or another alkaline is the chemical that opens the cuticle and allows the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair. It also acts as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide. Peroxide is used as the developer or oxidizing agent it does this by aggravating the colour molecule and making it swell. The developer removes pre-existing color. Peroxide breaks chemical bonds in hair, releasing sulfur, which accounts for the characteristic odor of haircolor. As the melanin is decolorized, a new permanent color is bonded to the hair cortex. Various types of alcohols and conditioners may also be present in hair colour. The conditioners help  close the cuticle after colouring and re balance that Ph level to seal in and protect the new colour.Alcohol is quite drying on the hair and is also another ingredient used to open the cuticle in the colour process,It can be also found in semi and temporary colours again to help with deposit of the colour molecules.

In closing this rather long and  technical blog all is not what it always seems and appears to be. Understand that chemistry trust your knowledge and research stay informed question and think. As and raise question seek the answers you need. Remember This! The only stupid question is the one never asked! 

Mike B2MR

 

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