Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.
The Consultation your time to shine:
I’ve been a fully trained stylist involved in our industry for well over 30 years have been fortunate enough to have experienced many aspects of the hairdressing Industry. In my many years of working with clients, I like to think that nothing shocks or surprises me many clients have shared every issue that may arise and come to us at our chair and station chair.
I’ve seen young women come in with orange roots and white ends. I’ve seen red roots and black ends. I’ve seen hair looking like a traffic light from violet to blue, colors that usually are reserved for flowers.When I see these mistakes colour failures in some case hair nightmares one cannot help but feel oh so sorry for the client to which these hair are attached.
Normally when the color mistakes are so apparent the truth is impossible to ignore the poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic that one really wants to help and fix this problem if at all possible. The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.
Usually they have learned from the mistake after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation. Then there are the liars. I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie. As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service.
Here is an example of a normal client consultation:
A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change; let’s say going lighter. We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair. It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history. whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage, If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair. It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month. If there is a any sort of line of demarcation, we know there was something “done” to the hair, and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp. When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason. When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything. To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue. In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. stale mate helps no one!
Here’s some information everyone needs to know.
Anything from a box color to a highlighting shampoo that causes any visible difference in your hair color has permanently altered the hair structure. Sun-In or anything like that, especially highlighting shampoos and conditioners have any variety of alkaline chemicals that diffuse your natural pigment. Beware of these products since they may contain sodium hydroxide which is relaxer. Any color from a box that is made from 2 or more components that are mixed together have some sort of peroxide component. Peroxide oxidizes your natural pigment, so if there is any alkaline in the formula, you will get lift. Many box colors say that they last 24 shampoos simply put if your color is changed by a box and if you grow out roots, it is not temporary the hair structure has been permanently affected. When hair is colored or receives any chemical service it is permanently affected till it is is cut off.
You may have correction to re colour blonde hair with brown pigment, it may be a perfect colour match but the hair still has any inherent damage caused by the initial service in this case going blonde. As a client try and be as open as possible the more history the better their is no advantage in trying to hide any chemical service that you have introduced into their hair. there is no reason to hide any details no matter what the box says informed decisions are easier to make with all the information at hand and every thing must be taken into consideration. When we ask you questions about what has happened to your hair for the past year or so, we need to know everything so we can make the right decisions for your services.
Next time you come in to get any chemical service done be completely honest with your colorist or as a stylist you are doing a consultation make sure you ask all the right question.We can read the history of your hair and there is no need for deception. After all, we have your best interests in mind. As it’s said ‘The truth will set you free’. A lie may break your hair!
Our goal a professional stylist is to work with clients to deal with the issue at hand offering the best service possible supported with education knowledge and an honest understanding of what is possible given any situation and history. Always retaining the right to say ‘No’
some extra facts:
TYPES OF HAIR COLOR
Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth. Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.
Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.
Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol. Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.
Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation. Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent
These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage. A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.
Temporary/ Color Rinse:
Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft. As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues
There there is always the herbal organic products that you might want to consider.