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challenges and change in the hair industry .


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

              Is there need for change in our industry? 

                                  ‘If so’

                How can this change happen?

Sadly although it can happen by itself when this happens it’s not normally good and positive change. It’s a change that happens slowly over time normally caused by neglect and complacency.

Rather than point out areas that need to change or be addressed i think it better to look at the big picture and how positive on going change can and will impact our industry. Not every one is open to change some might even be dead against it but it happens with or without some guidance and direction when this happens it can become quiet chaotic and seem very random and uncoordinated.

The hair industry has so many facets that it becomes quite hard to think about it as a whole I think of it more as many smaller units that are all linked under one umbrella ‘our industry’.

From Salon ownership.To Distributor.To Manufacturing. These might be considered the three main arms with other avenues leading off and yet connected within the industry.

This might be Stylists. Training education. Product knowledge. Product education. Platform work Product promotion. This would then break down again into others area. Colleges.Academy. Salon training. Product educator Sales person. Artistic team member and so on. Many avenues to many to split them up.

What has changed over the years? Certainly government involvement in standards and levels of training by the setting up of training standard bodies creating over legislation has this been for the better good of the industry? For both the standards and indeed for the types attracted into the profession? Are the right people steering controlling and setting mandates for our industry?

The number of colleges and academy’s. The standards they teach  the number of students they produce qualified each year. Is it now just a business and  way to control unemployment numbers? Should they work more closely with the industry at grass roots levels the salon and business owner the end consumer of the trainee’s.The industry expected to employ these constantly growing number of newly qualified professionals.

Manufacturers the products they produce, they way they market them. Do they respect our industry or dictate to it? Should they be more transparent about the products they expect us to use and promote. The salon business. Is on longer seasonal. The demands from stylist are different. The way we can connect with our clients is different. what clients demand is constantly changing. The age of expected discounting is consuming many salon and spa owners.

I do not have al the answers to the points raised but i do know that over the years we have allowed these changes to influence our industry. These changes some good some not so good now effect and influence our profession greatly. Judging by the number of industry professional voicing opinion globally on various professional group forums the need and want for change is growing. Build up a Linkedin professional profile join a some groups become active.One such group ‘professional hairdresser knowledge networking group’

There are many passionate motivated professional who work tirelessly to try and raise awareness and have a voice. Every salon every spa has the power to make change happen. How. By starting in your own salon with staff and owner collaboration with innovative thinking. By taking action start to think about and discuss the things your ant to change have a vision and work towards it salon owners stop competing with each other by our discounting each other you are hurting your selves some time competition is not healthy it’s distractive and negative.

Start in salon training develop your team have high standards start hold the manufactures accountable for the products they expect us to use. Join discussion groups share your voice have opinion.When things are not acceptable say so communicate openly with staff. learn and understand how to use social net working and multi media to your advantage. Encourage personal development as well as salon and team development. Take back control of your business and so a little bit of our industry by being educated skilled and professional. Being informed having knowledge is power having opinion and sharing views is powerful.

Finally the internet and the information available we cannot trust everything that is posted to be totally true we owe it to our sleeves and those we work with or influence to do a great deal of research to make sure the facts that we are presented with are correct. To be willing and open for change and challenges to embrace all the new possibilities available to us.

The internet is a marketing tool as well as an information high way so we have to all learn to navigate it and stay current and up to date!

I hope that this starts up some discussion and gives me some feed back.

Mike B2MR.

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Natural hair colour the N Series


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some colourist say “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well.

I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel” it works !

 

 

When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Be it to refer to or in some cases so we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!![ you may be smiling it happens]

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.

 

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal.

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade?

Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.

 

Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. do you understand it?

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean?

Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift

by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

So having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. So what do we need?

Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural.  We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.

Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose how do i control it!

it’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!

 

So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you!

 

 

 

A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour!

Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge ,

Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control

the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!

have fun. But be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can.

 

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour,shade & tone


Colour and pigment:

The Relationship between natural hair colour, Hydrogen peroxide, and Permanent colour is a complex one.

This is not a simple process. Why?

As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour.

We have to consider the formula, another we consideration is the level of Hydorgen peroxide we require to attain our target colour level ! when making this choice we must consider the pigment we will be exposing! why because it becomes part of our colour formulation so has to be considered!

So what makes it challenging

When we assess our hair natural colour we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour we have to access the natural hair level of the hair before choosing a target colour a big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6

{ that being dark Blonde, Light Brown, or rat} Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use we are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

This gets a little complicated mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect from any given strength of the Hydrogen Peroxide.

10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift.

The lift you get is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level, so on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by bringing this out to play we now have to decide as we chose our new target shade do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we look at our shade chart and choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment so working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their?

lets see.

Level 6  10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

Level 6  20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6   30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6  40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow. 4 levels of tint will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Depth and Tone:

I C S, International colouring system, offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour, they don’t ever read the technical manual, they mix shades hit and miss oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

Understand the colour Wheel trust what it tells you consider the environment you are working on take  the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual it normally has the answers to your issue sand problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

FACT: Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

Natures Colour is around us all the time we just have to take the time to take it in!

TAKE THE TIME TO FULLY UNDERSTAND THE COLOUR YOU USE IN YOUR SALON ITS OK TO ASK QUESTIONS. note:  not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

 
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Posted by on May 26, 2010 in Hair Colour

 

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