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Violet shade or tone In hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic’s or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it’s an issue I can write about .

                                One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic!

Required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!


When one thinks about violet as a colour or tone . I ask my self are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool red that one see’s so much of these days.

Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair colour process. Violet as shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But it’s almost behind the scene in the colour process.

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series Violet will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is .

As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart.

 With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play

from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.

Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash!

Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it .this lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled.

Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow/ Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation?

What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows

Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue

but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8

It’s all about balance.

Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash/blue make  GREEN !

Note the location of al Violet based shades and tones on the colour wheel below

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance  you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process.

If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone !   See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment fro the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this.

Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose.

Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above.

In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR

 
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Posted by on October 10, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Reds hot and cold!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

Hot Reds, fiery Copper, cool Red!

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.

Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop, look like swimming pools.

Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone the more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play But even this is a balance to much lift  re remove the red and orange to little and we control that vibrancy.

The Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker. finally once in the hair it can prove quite difficult to remove.

When we have a natural level 7  it can be Blonde with a undertone slightly gold its very easy to go Copper. When going tone on tone or darker it is not necessary to use permanent colour.

In fact when going Red or copper level 7 and above the more or higher volume of peroxide the more copper the colour, you are adding orange to the hair with the lift.

Blue eyes can work with red hair as can cool skin tone it’s a question of getting the shade right so it compliments skin and eye tone.

For level 6 dark Blonde and level 5 light Brown again consider whether you need to lift and expose more pigment in the hair at level 5 and 6 10 volume will be enough to bring out extra red pigment.

Different shades can be played with to create tone and dimension, it is possible to go from copper to red to brunette and back it you think the process through!

I have intentionally shown the same model for most of the shots in an effort to show that change of colour and style is possible. with out over processing the hair.

As you can see it is easy to move between shades from quite dark brunette through to warm tones, they do effect skin tone and eye colour but not in an adverse

way.

All of these colour have been done with  10vol for root lift and Demi Deposit the darker shades Demi only remember tone on tone or darker does not require lift.

A choice of high volume of peroxide will warm up your chosen colour.

To the right this rich copper colour is sectioned out into Zulu knots and four different shades of red and copper have been applied.

Finally to the left Level 5 natural level 10 vol peroxide enough to bring out the red pigment but not enough for more lift to bring out orange would make this cool red more brown.

Enjoy have fun experiment:

 

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What colour is right for you!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Getting the shade that compliments your skin, eyes and that you feel good and look good with!.

Yes we as stylist or you maybe as the client can give you create for you any colour or colours that you want but the real skill is one that really works one that makes your eyes pop, your face come alive!  

Yes we as stylist or you maybe as the client can give you create for you any colour or colours that you want but the real skill is one that really works one that makes your eyes pop, your face come alive!

Are you cool?

Your skin tone and eye colour play a big role in helping to determine which hair colour will be best for you there are two main categories, depending on the above: cool and warm.

Cool category:

eyes: deep brown or black brown; Grey blue or dark blue; hazel with white, Grey or blue flecks;

skin tone: very dark brown; true olive (most Asians and Latinos); medium with no color in cheeks medium with faint pink cheeks; medium with golden undertones ;pale with no color in cheeks ;pale with pink undertones ;brown or bronze when you tan;

Natural hair colour: blue black ; deepest coffee brown ; medium ash brown; medium golden brown dishwater blonde; salt and pepper; white.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the cool category. Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones in hair colour. These warm tones have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair colour shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re also fortunate enough to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” hair colours like lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, purples.

Warm category:

eyes: golden brown ; green, green blue or turquoise; hazel with gold or brown flecks;

skin tone: brown with pink undertone; brown with golden undertone; pale with peach or gold undertones; freckled;

Natural hair colour:

Deep brown with gold or red highlights red; strawberry blonde; grey with a yellow cast; natural golden blonde.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the warm category. You should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, ash based hair colours which will seem to “wash out” your natural colour. Depending on your skin tone and your preferences, you’ll find dark, warm browns, rich golden browns and auburn, warm gold and red highlights, and golden blond shades look best on you. Highlighting is a great way to add warm tones to your hair. see previous blog on natural high lights using high lift blonde matching shades with your natural colour.

What ever your colouring:

I think the key thing here is does the colour you are choosing for your hair make your eyes pop! if it compliments your skin tone and your eye colour then it’s a go!!

Hair Colour cut style it’s all part of the bigger picture that is you makeup, clothes, accessories that is you says this is me individual stunning stylish!

All possible patients faith and a willingness for change!! hairdressing plays a part in this and that’s what makes what we do so special  we have the power to solve problems come up with solutions make a difference. work with our clients to educate and advise them to get that unique look and style.

MikeB2MR

 

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