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Pre lightening hair. Bleaching lift pigment tone.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

                               how not to bleach!

How to Bleach your hair:

A huge topic with so many different answers options variables.

Above i found this information for bleaching a head maybe it was put up in jest if that was the case it’s in bad taste and dangerous in content or lack there of. If not in jest then very dangerous if taken seriously by some one. We should always consider the content of what we post and the damage bad information can do !

Lets look at it in a little depth:

Step one suggested supplies.

I would suggest for an on scalp bleach an oil bleach rather than a powder. {why} powder bleach is harsh on the scalp, has a tendency to dry out creating patchy lift.

Oil bleach mixed with booster will give even lift and will not dry out. { Do not mix with any higher volume of peroxide than 20vol} Skin test and possible stand test is advisable.

*If a virgin application start at the ends  work up to roots, the roots will always lift the fastest.

*If a re-application try not to over lap re-growth application over hair already bleached.

*If trying to lift out one fashion shade to apply another go carefully don’t just slap bleach all over remember this hair has already been lifted so is fragile. You may well encounter  build up of colour the ends may well be harder to lift.Compromise and toning may be required .Do not just keep bleaching!! hair can only take so much abuse!

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching} as pigment and or toner is removed

                          If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Got side tracked as is aid huge topic, foil is not advisable for an all over application some schools of thought advocate heat, i do not!

The biggest heat loss in the body is through the head so why not use this if heat is required a plastic bag over the application with suffice. { heat only seems to speed up the process but given that the formulation for lift is dependent on the volume of peroxide chosen why rush it’s a process} 

Lets Touch on second stage mix powder bleach until creamy!

How informative is that!  normally direction and mixing instruction come with products they need to be followed, the goal is to get the correct mix of lifting agent to peroxide.

With powder bleach normally 1-part Bleach decolourizer powder to 2-parts peroxide but follow each products instructions:

No Mention of Gloves!!

                                                       [as stated on scalp no more than 20 vol}

example of colour home kit  contents on right oil base with boosters:

below on left natural level  on right lift attained

I recommended oil bleach this comes with a bottle of liquid+sachets of powder you can mix one or two sachets or boosters with the correct amount of liquid. mix together until a gel then add the recommended    amount of peroxide mix thoroughly.

Another option for removing  some of the fashion shades is Colour remover it works very well but i must state that some of the fashion shades really stain  heavy build up of staining can cause problems.

                          lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair.Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting, Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:             

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. it has no limits it can remove all pigment form the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

                              High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!


All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange   


To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?


To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

A really well done look both bleaching and tone look good and very natural. How things should be done.

                                            http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!

Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon  one cannot be to careful.

Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.

Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon

Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

Mike B2MR

                                       Oh Finally Gloves at all times!!!!!

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Make over Colour correction and re style


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?

Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.

This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.

This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.

Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:

After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.

My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!

Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

It may seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.

The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took.Time and patients. Communication Consultation. That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.

Mike B2MR

 
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Posted by on October 20, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Colour correction a journey and adventure


Colour Correction:

A challenge a journey an adventure:

Cause client has Indulged in a cocktail of home colour trying to get that salon look on the cheap!

Sadly a poorly done colour service done by an unskilled hairdresser.

A mixture of both of the above some salon visits some home colour therapy!

What must we consider when taking on a Corrective colour  challenge?

The key to successful colour correction are as follows:  Consultation. This must be a honest conversation both parties must decide on goal and what is realistically be achieved! {it is worth noting that correction can take more than one visit}

Commitment to work together for how ever long this journey might take.

During the consultation a stylist must use all tools available to them. Ask as many questions as possible thus getting  a full history of events running up to this point!

Touch feel the hair visual look study.{ look for banding. fading. build up. breakage.porosity.}

Do a strand test  healthy hair floats over processed hair sinks: hair that sinks will not hold colour! step one is to re build that moisture level

How ever challenging the correction is and how ever good you are and we all like a challenge and to show off! { oh yes it’s correction so big earner!}

If at the end of the day you don’t get a good feeling about the client commitment or if it’s not going to be a good advert for your skill why take it on? EGO!

Think about it really damaged over processed hair fading falling apart as soon as you agree to attempt to correct this you are saying i take on responsibility for this and all that has been done in the past!

A huge risk remember if it’s not going to be a good advert for you then it can cause damage to your reputation. Hard as it is their is nothing wrong with saying I’m sorry this is just to damaged to work with at this time recommend products see if their is commitment to work with you!

If the motivator is driven by the fee you should not be doing it!

You should be thinking long term this could be a long term relationship with a client who will trust you for ever so be honest look at it as an investment! educate them.

The Next Step:

So we have decided that we can and want to proceed:

Corrective Colour will usually be one or a combination of the following:

*Wrong level: the hair is to dark or too light.

*Wrong Tone: the hair is to warm {Orange} to cool {ash}

*Uneven colour: Dark ends. lines of demarcation. light { hot} regrowth.

* Insufficient or poor Grey coverage.

* Colour that wont holds on ends, and or fades very quickly.

The key to understanding  corrective colour is the understanding of what pigment is missing from the hair what needs to be replaced or removed?

Hair colour is about balance harmony ask your self do i want utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? the chart below shows the relationship of tone and corrective tone: remember that perfect balance of our primary colours Red, yellow, blue.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

You must learn to trust these charts to get the correct results:

It would not be possible to give an example of a corrective case they are all different and way to many

possibilities things to watch out for.

Problems:

Colour may not be removed evenly over the entire head due mainly to varying porosity and build up always work from dark to light! repeat on dark areas before moving on to lighter area. be patient always protect virgin hair – regrowth.

Lifting the cuticle causes damage to the hair shaft rule as little chemistry as possible: condition get that hair Ph back to 5.5!

Test the hair:

Do not remove if:

* hair is extremely porous.

*Skin is broken and or sensitive.

*do a stand test do a skin test be safe.

Repeat performance:

In a perfect world we could say this is a one off service! but be prepared for follow up fine tuning to get the perfect results.

Decolourizer or Bleach  one of the key tools needed for corrective service when mixed with the correct volume of Hydroperoxide

Finally:

Follow-up this involves recommending the correct products to maintain the colour and hair condition it’s your prescription for success!

Book a follow up appointment within two weeks so colour retention can be checked and adjusted if necessary!

Remember it’s a journey an adventure with the right tools knowledge and education correction can be fun!    { if you don’t have the skills and confidence seek help get the knowledge}

 
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Posted by on May 5, 2010 in HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,

 

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