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Dark hair. Brunette to Natural looking Blonde.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

 

 

How do you go from brunette to blonde? 

What are the pit falls things to look out for when going from dark to light shade ? How blonde can you go? What shade should you expect to achieve from a brunette level 4 to5? I raise this questions because skin tone. Eye colour.  play such a key role when switching colour.

Brunette to Blonde can certainly have it’s challenges. Having decided to go lighter the question becomes. How blonde you want to go? You then have to decide on all over colour or highlights? If your hair is Naturally Brunette level 4 to 5 then the lighter you go. The more issues of warmth will come in to the equation.  This warmth will normally present as. Red orange . Orange .Yellow orange. Also roots or regrowth have to be considered.

Brunette natural lifted 4 levels still very warm.

As you lift your hair the pigment it contains is exposed. So as you lift from natural level the first tone you will see is Red. Second level would be Red with orange hue. Third level would be orange. Forth level orange yellow. This amount of lift would normally be about 4 levels. Depending on the level we are staring from we can choose our target level of colour and shade.  With high lift colour and using the pigment it contains to control tone exposed pigment. Any thing lighter than four levels will require Pre-lightening.

Consider what shade you want. Maybe highlights and low lights would give you a lighter but more natural look. Lots to consider.

If very dark hair maybe Asian. Oriental. 1st Nation native or previously coloured then unwanted pigment will be an issue.

 

pre lightened and high lighted

I strongly suggest a professional consultation before embarking on this. It’s not just slap on the shade indicate don the box.

If your hair has been coloured to a Brunette shade and your wanting to go Blonde you really need help you could end up with a hair night mare. Many issues when doing this procedure. Be warned you could end up with yellow roots orange mid lengths and red ends!! Consultation honest advise good service from a knowledgeable Styling and technical team.

 

 

Some the issues raised, have covered in past blogs and topic’s  Lift deposit . Tone. Highlighting and Blonde looks feel free to look at back issues or ask question via blog contact.

Considering how light to go can take some thought. Hold light swatches against your skin. Hey try wigs you will be amazed how skin colour. Eye colour. Changes when you lighten your hair.

Also make up and indeed choice of clothing colour shade and style might have to be thought about.

Good luck be brave but consider it harder to go light and get the right shade than going back to natural or darker!

A use full link on controlling shade pigment tone.

 

 

 

 

 

How dark? How blonde? much to Consider. Just remember skin colour, eye colour, Pigment and tone.

have your stylist explain this to you.

Mike B2MR

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Posted by on August 8, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Darker hair shades wanting to go lighter:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I don’t quite remember when the penny really dropped about understanding hair colour. I don’t just mean the application of it . I refer to understanding. Lift. Deposit. Pigment achieving that desired perfect colour and shade.

The process of lift both naturally red and warm shades as well as the naturally darker shades wishing to go lighter. Both have the same issues dealing with the warm pigment exposed. Orange and Yellow Orange.

A challenge in it self but some natural colours are harder to cope with than others. Depending on what the desired shade is.

So lets take a look at our warm shades Reds, Coppers, Rich brunette.

Lets use a scenario of wanting to go lighter. By that I suggest a Blonde shade. Most people who want blonde do not want to see. Orange or Yellow. The same will apply to Asian hair or any one with natural dark pigment as it’s lifted Orange will be the issue.

This create many issues for our natural reds and coppers heads, so lets take a look at what may arise and some option of how to address them.

In so many cases the main thing to consider are? How light to go? What shade of blonde is achievable? The consultation process is key here before making any application of colour, bleach/decolouriser. or using a high lift Blonde formulation as above

With Red pigment being the hardest to lift and control a realistic vision and a game plan are the key to success.

With a natural bright copper colour [sometimes know as ginger]. A bright copper natural base shade would normally be around a level 7 on any shade chart. So quite light and yet full of those pigment tones red and red orange, yellow. To get to any shade of Blonde we have to lift up to and beyond level 9 and infact 10 and beyond and be able to control pigment exposed.

The issue being. As you manage to lift the red and orange pigment out you then hit the yellow pigment bar. Because of the strong pigment in this hair the yellow pigment will be really intense so mistakes can be made when controlling it with a toner.

I have seen so many natural Bright copper heads with attempts at highlights that can look. Green, dull metallic, drab.

The main reason is choice of toner. In many cases we reach as stylists for a toner with an ash base, but lets think about this ash is blue base toner,  blue and yellow make? Green hence the dull drab tone

Consider using a violet base.Why? Well we have lifted the hair removing all the red pigment. There was hardly any blue to start with. So to find a balance of shade we have to replace the missing pigment red and blue, this equals Violet in some cases maybe a blue violet base could be required.

Its all about considering the pigment you have exposed and what your target is. Its also worth mentioning that one needs to consider skin tone and eye colour when taking a natural copper level into blonde shades will it look good!

The same consideration should be applied to rich brunettes although a little blue pigment on the surface you with be lifting from around a natural level 5 into reds then copper orange, my suggested goal here would be a caramel shade not to blonde it will look dull yellow slightly dirty!

Lift to a pale orange yellow shade. Then tone with a blue violet toner. This will re balance the pigment exposed leaving a really rich caramel highlight.

Again when lifting the hair consider skin tone eye colour. A natural brunette will normally have brown or hazel eye colour so to light will wash out the skin and the eyes will not pop!

The main considerations as stated are. Natural hair level, skin tone, eye colour. A realistic vision of lifted goal level. Will the desired look be flattering? It’s not our goal to dictate but is is to advise,honestly in the consultation process.

Consider the pigment you will be encountering make sure you have thought through what you are doing and what look you want. It’s all about pigment control. Understanding the colour wheel trusting the colour wheel. Yes trusting the laws of colour. Do this and you will not have unwanted tone.

Know your products that is the colours you use know how they work what you can expect from them. know that when lifting red hair however light you go Yellow will be the issue Violet will be you tool.

When lifting level 4 and darker Orange will be the issue Ash will be your tool

If you are lifting hair that has been previously coloured I would suggest consultation strand test. I would suggest working from the ends into the roots when lifting?

Many more issues can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.

In closing I know i bang on about the colour wheel understanding tone  making the right tone choice but it’s the key to successful colouring . Knowledge is power.

Mike B2MR

 

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The dark side of hair colour:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 

 

 

If you’re are  like so many not blessed  with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair color  this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it.

 

 

 

The big question Why?

 

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi permanent colour.

 

 

Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

 

Transitioning:

It helps you to transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker.  In many case a Demi  colour application will last longer than a permanent hair color  due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation.

 

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

 

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

 

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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