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The dark side of hair colouring


A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

If you’re are  like so many not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour.  This form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Leaving the hair full of life and shine,The amount of shade and tone created depends on choice of shades and number of different colour tones added. I would normally suggest add four complementary shades that work with natural base level.

The big question Why?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour.

                                                       Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.


It helps you to transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker.  In many case a Demi  colour application will last longer than a permanent hair color  due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. Remember if you are going dark or if as a stylist your taking someone dark then think formulation Demi formulation is as good for coverage as full blown permanent formulation. It will however over time make going lighter agin an easier transition!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

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Posted by on October 3, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair


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Demi formulation fact or fiction


regular postings of fresh new topic’s

sharing lets talk colour
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Having just posted an article about Demi lotion. I was very interested to find these to articles until i read them. They not only contradict each other they both mislead. The one below in the first line by confusing Demi lotion application as being another name for a semi permanent this article i was

unable to write a comment on!


The second posting although better was still incorrect however i was able to post comment as to whether it gets posted or not is another question!


Article one: from online posting

Semi Demi Colour:

Hair color procedures come in many forms. Semi-permanent (sometimes called Demi Color) is one of my favorites. This color does not enter the hair cuticle[ Demi does enter cuticle to some degree]. It’s a non-ammonia, low peroxide hair color [ As above if Demi Ammonia may be present] that only affects the outside of the hair shaft. It won’t lighten hair but can cover some Grey. I love to use it because it does not have any damaging effect on the hair, in fact it gives hair brightness and shine and makes hair look fresh and less frizzy. It’s a great process for men also as it can cover grey without looking like a guy who’s coloring his hair (which is what most men want)! It’s very natural looking.

I love doing hair color because it has the power to change how people look and feel. In my salon, over 80% of my clients get color. I’ve been doing hair color for over 35 years and still love going to work every day!

I’ve seen every change and new process in the hair salon business and change is what makes the business so exciting for me. I love sharing these changes with my clients, going to advanced hair classes and learning all the new hair trends and treatments.

Semi-permanent hair color is not exactly new but it will make you fell like you’ve got a brand new, fresh look and make your hair look healthy and shiny as well.

Above Written and posted by hairdresser



Demi-permanent hair color: from online posting

Demi-permanent color level lasts much longer, It can last through 24 to 26 shampoos. In the demi-permanent color process, pre color molecules go into the cuticles and will enter the cortex where they then partner to create medium sized color molecules. Their bigger in size which means they can take much longer to wash out. Demi-permanent color products do not contain any ammonia so the natural pigment of your hair can not be lightened. Demi-permanent color does contain a very small amount of peroxide, which adds a subtle, but noticeable, color enhancement to your hair. It also helps to blend and cover gray hair.

Above Written and posted by hairdresser


Article Two:

Demi response to above article:

Had a look great article most informative: But a Demi formulation may well have ammonia or another alkaline in in it, as you stated the colour molecules deposit in the cortex to get in to the cortex the cuticle has to be opened hence need for alkaline such as ammonia to create this environment the colour molecules then develop when they meet with the peroxide stimulating them to swell and develop.

The ammonia or alkaline create the environment for the colour molecules to enter the hair the peroxide reacts with the molecules swelling the new colour

It is the peroxide that lifts hair not Ammonia over time a Demi application can lighten hair given that the peroxide level is around 5vol. This lightening will only occur with prolonged use and over

Razor cutting dem
razor cutting

lapping!Thanks for the article Mike B2MR



By definition Demi Lotion formulation is as follows:

What is Demi colour how does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish.

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle  and to some degree in the Cortex, ammonia or another alkaline is required for this chemical process,  although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol. this percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide is required to develop the colour molecules enabling them to deposit partially in the cuticle and cortex, Semi permanent colour tend to be direct dye that lie on the cuticle layer will fade out with washing but may build upon very porous hair, In some formulation a semi permanent may have an alkaline in the to partially open the cuticle for extra deposit.

[ direct dye is fully developed colour molecule the larger the colour molecule the more the cuticle has to be opened the larger ones will not deposit as deeply so will fade quicker]


I hope this is helpful MikeB2MR


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What colour is right for you!


Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Getting the shade that compliments your skin, eyes and that you feel good and look good with!.

Yes we as stylist or you maybe as the client can give you create for you any colour or colours that you want but the real skill is one that really works one that makes your eyes pop, your face come alive!  

Yes we as stylist or you maybe as the client can give you create for you any colour or colours that you want but the real skill is one that really works one that makes your eyes pop, your face come alive!

Are you cool?

Your skin tone and eye colour play a big role in helping to determine which hair colour will be best for you there are two main categories, depending on the above: cool and warm.

Cool category:

eyes: deep brown or black brown; Grey blue or dark blue; hazel with white, Grey or blue flecks;

skin tone: very dark brown; true olive (most Asians and Latinos); medium with no color in cheeks medium with faint pink cheeks; medium with golden undertones ;pale with no color in cheeks ;pale with pink undertones ;brown or bronze when you tan;

Natural hair colour: blue black ; deepest coffee brown ; medium ash brown; medium golden brown dishwater blonde; salt and pepper; white.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the cool category. Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones in hair colour. These warm tones have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair colour shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re also fortunate enough to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” hair colours like lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, purples.

Warm category:

eyes: golden brown ; green, green blue or turquoise; hazel with gold or brown flecks;

skin tone: brown with pink undertone; brown with golden undertone; pale with peach or gold undertones; freckled;

Natural hair colour:

Deep brown with gold or red highlights red; strawberry blonde; grey with a yellow cast; natural golden blonde.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the warm category. You should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, ash based hair colours which will seem to “wash out” your natural colour. Depending on your skin tone and your preferences, you’ll find dark, warm browns, rich golden browns and auburn, warm gold and red highlights, and golden blond shades look best on you. Highlighting is a great way to add warm tones to your hair. see previous blog on natural high lights using high lift blonde matching shades with your natural colour.

What ever your colouring:

I think the key thing here is does the colour you are choosing for your hair make your eyes pop! if it compliments your skin tone and your eye colour then it’s a go!!

Hair Colour cut style it’s all part of the bigger picture that is you makeup, clothes, accessories that is you says this is me individual stunning stylish!

All possible patients faith and a willingness for change!! hairdressing plays a part in this and that’s what makes what we do so special  we have the power to solve problems come up with solutions make a difference. work with our clients to educate and advise them to get that unique look and style.



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