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Demi lotion hair colour or just another dye?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour  offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.

Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the  high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. 10 Vol peroxide is not a substitute as it does lift the hair within the natural level an example of this would be at a natural level 6 10 volume formulation would expose the warmth at that level [red orange]

 How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. the goal being to introduce some colour with subtle shade deposit not permanent with root or re growth issues!

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose. Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!

Mike B2MR

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Low lights and multi tonal shades


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

Low light colour: A technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades with going unduly light:

How can one create these looks?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look. It’s back to that need for in depth consultation both parties if using a professional stylist or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project.

Their are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required. The target colour and then tones and shades being used. Again this is so dependant on starting point previous history.

We will use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde.

One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured or never processed hair. The Look tends to to work well on a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair. In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots. For the sake of this lets not go to complicated. We will presume grown out Highlights and low lights.This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is. Creating a lighter brighter look, lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very light or bright bright ends. Known as ‘Ombre technique’

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colourwould be to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer. I might suggest on our pre-coloured hair using three different levels of ‘Bleach decolouriser’ fading them into each other. How? You may ask. Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions

.2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to. You may had have to use a toner to blend.

1*Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

2*Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade desired or required. If going darker you will not require a formulation to lift this will only introduce unwanted warmth! For tone on tone or darker hair deposit only use a Demi formulation.

If wanting to go lighter or richer  or for more vibrant colours some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history and choice of shades and tones. Again play with both colour or shade choice and level of peroxide. Just remember as you increase the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment or warmth you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! Yes a balancing act. Caution: Over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour! 10 volume would bring out the required pigment with out over lifting.

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair. I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice. Here is my choice and suggestion.Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play. How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

My choice would be 8A or 9A Why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time, think through both. Timing, application, formulation. Use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique. You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation. Remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area.Two different formulation on each weave. Have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results.

Mike B2MR

 

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