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Hair cuts style creative techniques


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

 

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

When asked how many different hair cuts are their? my first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it’s quite an interesting thought process.

We need to break it down thinks i !

Long.            lets say anything past shoulder blades

Medium.       shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting, back to the plot!

So next my thought went to layers why layers well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape.

It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

Yes we must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.

But the basic’s don’t change the length and degree of layering.

All hair cuts are length and shape created by degree’s of layering this sounds very simplistic but it’s not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training,

 

Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and bend of above techniques.

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation on length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation if you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat you have know room  for change maybe maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together?

As an exercise try this.

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up

now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

I would so happily discuss this with anyone it’s so complicated to put into words and yet such an interesting topic. Mike B2MR

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Comments Off on Hair cuts style creative techniques

Posted by on October 23, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Razor cutting creating texture movement dimension


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.


                                   Razor hair cutting tools and skill

This started out as a razor cutting blog. Exciting and easy for me as razor cutting is my passion second only to hair colouring.

So it’s my hope you enjoy this and it pushes those buttons to get you wanting to explore the world of razor techniques.

The various techniques. The creative texture that can be created. Soft looks with unlimited movement and no demarcation lines. It has been over 15years since I last  cut hair with scissors.I still get excited and find it challenging to cut hair with a razor.

This has been a wonderful journey for me into understanding how hair falls. How to create shape and form. Working with clients in this time i have not had a single client request from a client to go back to using scissors. Or any complaints about the shape look or way it has grown out. why is this? I hope this article explains all.

So down to Business

 

                                                         cut throat razor

How to do a razor Cut:  

When we think Razor cutting. I think in most cases ones thought go directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor. A valuable tool indeed. A tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:

                                                shape weight distribution:

Learning how to do. 

A razor cut How to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.That is not saying don’t try but don’t just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution. My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.

                       Hand drawn the angles i process when building shape:

 

To get the most out of razor cutting one has to understand weight distribution. Hair growth patterns, texture. How to build shape and form. Can you do you visualize the shape you want to create in 3D before you start? when finished does it look the way you hoped?

Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on.

With the sketch above i’m trying to show the curve plains on the head the curves directly impact the angles and so the weight distribution and shape we create,

These angles have to be considered and understood to be able to do frees style hair cutting:

Over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!

Maybe you don’t agree with me that’s great let share  exchange some thoughts?

I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped

with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.    { this was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley and i gave her an amazing Scissor hair cut memories}

                                                           The claw’s

To this day I still get that buzz when it just works! the hair falls into place and shape looking natural almost no need for styling. free style cutting at it’s best.

So these little sucker’s claw’s: not for the faint hearted!!

I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape and how hair falls moves and swings.

They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion as you can see below on this short little hair cut.

                               Me working with the claw’s on a model:                                       

Maybe I’m getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.

There are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor. 

A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?}  you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this!  cool ha.

                                                      Right razor for the job:  

      It has to be a feather style razor: after many years the best razor                                    blades the longest lasting Kasho

 Here in the Uk contact              http://www.coolblades.co.uk/

I use Kasho Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair.  { it is by choice the tool of my trade}

It is widely thought that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.

What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.

Once you get to this level of understanding their is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting.

I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director  for L’anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i  did and have never looked back.

I became a platform artist working for L’anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting. 

                                    Crystal blade razor:glass blade

In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut.

Well that story was needed because the a razor to the right has a glass blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:

Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.

When it comes to style creating that new look have fun

Challenge your self push the envelope get new skills invest in your self go on course

learn new techniques watch others share idea’s we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!

A great place to find razors shears and interact with on their face book page committed to professional tools for professional stylists:

I have a group page for thoughts and discussions leave comments. or join follow this blog here.

Exploring techniques with a razor will open up a hole new world of creativity:

If you need would like help encouragement group or individual instruction I’m sure i could help you reach a new level of expertise.

Mike B2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

full contact details on my web site:

.


 
Comments Off on Razor cutting creating texture movement dimension

Posted by on October 18, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Bad hair low standards. None creative.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

If it’s a bad look done at home it’s sad. If it’s a bad look and not very well executed cut style or colour done professionally that’s even worse.

Why is it? how is some people can go out without looking in the mirror and being honest asking the question. Does this look good?

As stylist we need to remember that a client leaving the salon is our walking promotion.It’s a free walking bill board or the reason why your not getting recommended. Standards creative skill. consultation with clients about what will work!

below some examples of bad looks and why!

over processed candy cane hair bleached within an inch of it’s life shapeless hair cut looking like she stuck a finger in a electric socket! would you be proud of this creation?

When you see bad hair out in public do you ever think? What was going through the person mind who created that? Or do they know how bad that looks? Did they pay for that?  I do it amazes me what stylist’s can do produce that is deemed acceptable. How low standards can get. What poor standards people will accept as looking good !

The same can be said for dress sense looking in the mirror and thinking maybe not! Or for me this hair do is wrong on so many levels. Its shape well lack of ! Its colour. In this case a stylist has taken three looks and tried to join them together very badly.

I’m not sure if the nape and the nasty line there .The crown and that flat bald like area . Or the weight line carried round to the sides and face. It’s just wrong on all levels.

Oh! Perfect a side view to show off what I am trying to point out! No flow. Disconnection it not an excuse for total shapeless mess. The crown area is two short and blunt . Cutting hair short does not create height! or volume. Texture does with shears or a razor and an understanding of weight shape and form, well that and styling.

This to me looks like she turned her head up side down and blasted it with a hairdryer. Sadly the shape or lack there of does allow for a lazy styling approach .The blonde is a nothing colour dull patchy leopard spotting caused by over layering coloured area’s. No thought has been given to shape look or colour not to mentions the clients features and dress sense or lack of.

This is all a classic example of not caring and low standards. In this instance. The stylist not only let’s the client down but also them selves for it is no advert  to produce work like this.

Want more? Ok How about this look:

What does this say to you? Would you produce this ? Would you be proud to say this totally represents my work and who I am ?  Hum not so much ha!

Again really bad choice of colours and look. Whether the client did this her self or paid for it .Well it’s a rat’s nest. Why do people go out looking like this. Because they really take very little time to think does this look good ! do I feel good! If your a stylist looking at this say to your self I am better than this ! If you are  a client then say! From now on I will take time to make an effort to look and feel good.

In closing It is possible to see a look that works that is well done I think that it was the  contrast of these three women all taken at the same location that set this topic in motion.

For me this is a well executed little cut. A really well done colour it work and suites the women. I hope this brings my point home that as stylist’s we have to consider so much not just a hair do. we have to work with and cater for all sorts and types!

But life style. The way the client looks. What she wears. Does she really care about appearance. Some women don’t getting a hair cut or colour is just a routine event,We have the skill and ability to make a difference to open their eye’s

Where does all this start With the image we present and the service  the consultation the honest sound advise we offer. can you do you do this ? Do you really care? Don’t be any thing other than the very best you can. Never settle for second best as a Stylist or as a client.

We attract what we project and present that look that say’s this is me. Or as a stylist’s it says. This is what i can do for you. Standards never let them slip !!!! Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Bad hair low standards. None creative.

Posted by on September 27, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Hair cutting Technique form shape.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

When asked how many different hair cuts are their? my first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it’s quite an interesting thought process.

We need to break it down thinks i !

Long.            lets say anything past shoulder blades

Medium.       shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting, back to the plot!

So next my thought went to layers why layers well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape.

It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

So yes we must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.

But the basic’s don’t change the length and degree of layering.

So all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree’s of layering this sounds very simplistic but it’s not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training,

Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and bend of above techniques.

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation on length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation if you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat you have know room  for change maybe maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together?

As an exercise try this.

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up

now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

I would so happily discuss this with anyone it’s so complicated to put into words and yet such an interesting topic.

What are your thoughts?  Mike B2MR

 

Tags: , , , ,

Razor cutting what a skill


How to do a razor Cut:

When we think Razor cutting i think in most cases ones thought go Directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor a valuable tool indeed, a tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:

How to do a razor Cut:

Learning how to do a razor cut how to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.

That is not saying don’t try but don’t just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution.

My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.

To get the most out of razor cutting one has to understand weight distribution, hair growth patterns, texture, how to build shape and form. can you do you visualize the shape you want to create in 3D before you start? when finished does it look the way you hoped?

Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on.

{over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!}

Maybe you don’t agree with me that’s great let share  exchange some thoughts?

I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped

with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.

{ this was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley and i gave her an amazing Scissor hair cut memories}

to this day I still get that buzz when it

just works!

So these little sucker’s claw’s:

I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape.

They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion as you can see below on this short little hair cut.

{LEFT ME CUTTING WITH THE CLAW’S}

Maybe I’m getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.

their are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor.

A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?}  you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this!  cool ha.


The razor to the right is a feather razor:

I use Kashio Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair. { it is by choice the tool of my trade}

It is widely though that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.

What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.

Once you get to this level of understanding their is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting.

I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director  for L’anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i  did and have never looked back.

I became a platform artist working for L’anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting.

{This little baby is a glass crystal razor}

In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece. Imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut.

Well that story was needed because the above razor has a glass blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:

Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.

When it comes to style creating that new look have fun

Challenge your self push the envelope get new skills invest in your self go on course

learn new techniques watch others share idea’s we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!

http://www.hji.co.uk/Home/ I have a group page for thoughts and discussions leave comments.  or join follow this blog here.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/ my web site

.http://uk.linkedin.com/in/mikevallanceb2mr

Join me see my profile and Bio on linked in.

 
Comments Off on Razor cutting what a skill

Posted by on May 14, 2010 in Razor cut is cutting edge

 

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