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Health or wealth in your salon


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR


Health or wealth: 

As mentioned we are living through some very challenging economic times. Business models that work no longer seem to.There are no guarantee’s when it comes to customer loyalty. With this comes worries about revenue daily and weekly takings.  Products and techniques come and go Perming, Henna, Highlights, Lowlights,Ombre. All have taken there place in the salon hall of fame for both looks and indeed for profitability. 

Now we have a new challenge facing us! The chemistry of our products is changing at a rapid pace some of the manufacture are less than transparent about how these products work and any possible side effects. Frankly this is worrying and we as professional have to ask more question and be either less trusting  or hold the manufacture to account. The chemistry in many cases of our hair colour has changed Ammonia got gets a bad warp it seems an Alkaline derived from grain has a more natural quality to it so it must be safer and healthier! You decided MEA come from the ethanol family.

Back to the profit the revenue.The services that are great money makers. The safety of the chemicals in the Keratin products [relaxers] our ability to trust the manufacturers of these products. Follow the money…so many stylists see only the quick return the fast cash made from these services, ignoring the cancer, COPD and asthma dangers to ourselves and our clients. In some cases if not the product it self. It’s the reaction caused when high heat is applied and fumes are given off.  Formaldehyde. Aldehydes produce toxic fumes in our salon workspace.  Will we be seeing more and more cases of serious breathing issues and potentially even worse side effects and health issues.

What is it going to take for salon owners and stylist to sit up do some home work ask some key questions about these products.

Greed is winning out over the safety and health issue! What will happen to our industry when the inevitable legal actions start by anyone who has side effects contracted from being around these fumes? We need to wake ourselves and each other up to the very real dangers of these product do your own research read some of the true facts. Don’t trust me i’m just a messenger but wealth is no replacement for health! The manufactures need to be more honest and we stylist have to demand more of them. Ignorance is not an excuse when it comes to health and safety.

Here are some links below and some food for thought.  But hey please do your own home work!

Lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products: They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in an effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations. Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product and how and why it works explanation of the process.

Warning flags:

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons. The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin. How do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application. I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions: 

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a Curl interrupted smoothing system. How does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde. The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health. or so it’s claimed .just yesterday i was sent copy of lab report showing high levels of formaldehyde present in products claiming to be safe. The very high het required plays a key roll in the production of the harmful fumes.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5. This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray. The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle? The keratin is manufactured.  

Relaxers,Straitners, Keratin, Blow out: Sharing a health warning

Over the past week I have written reviews and posted information on the new Keratin hair products designed to relax De frizz promote a healthy look promoted as a system that last up to three months without any damage and side effects.

Much of what i read and re-searched was very exciting but as with all products and claims of the new wonder product did it have side effects. The one thing that did keep coming up as a warning light was initially with the Brazilian Blow out and Formaldehyde the problem being as the heat with the hot iron is applied the fumes can be dangerous. Question raised have and were met with denial in many quarters sadly fears have come to be true as yet only in Canada but a red light is a red light. Please if using these products take care follow all direction protect your self and your client.

Warning Oct. 7, 2010

Brazilian Blowout Solution Contains Formaldehyde

The Issue:

Health Canada is warning Canadians that Brazilian Blowout Solution manufactured by Brazilian Blowout of California has been found to contain unacceptable levels of formaldehyde. The Brazilian Blowout hair smoothing treatment is known to be available at salons across Canada.

Health Canada has received complaints of burning eyes, nose, and throat, breathing difficulties, and one report of hair loss associated with use of the product.

Testing conducted by Health Canada found that the Brazilian Blowout Solution contains 12% formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is permitted in cosmetics at less than 0.2% when used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is a known irritant, sensitizer, and is linked to cancer in humans when inhaled chronically over a long period of time. Health Canada believes that the reactions are being caused by formaldehyde becoming aerosolized during the blow drying and flat ironing stages of the treatment. Any procedure containing formaldehyde above the allowable limits places clients and stylists at increased risk.

Who is Affected:

Consumers receiving hair smoothing treatments using Brazilian Blowout, and stylists performing the treatment may experience reactions of burning eyes, nose, throat, and breathing troubles.

What Consumers Should Do:

Consumers who have had adverse reactions to Brazilian Blowout treatments are advised to seek medical attention. There is no cause for concern for consumers who have used this product and not experienced any reactions.

Stylists who use Brazilian Blowout treatments should immediately stop using the affected product.

Adverse reactions to cosmetics can be reported to Health Canada using a form available on Health Canada’s website.

Consumers and health professionals can contact Consumer Product Safety toll free at 1-866-662-0666.

* Health Canada, Oct. 7, 2010. is the look worth the risk?

Moving on we now have companies rebranding and so re packaging with new formulation claims ALDEHYDES are the term used. are they safe ? what happens when exposed to high heat? In the end you the stylist have to decide is it worth risking?

What is an Aldehyde? It’s the new kid on the block in keratin relaxers. Formaldehyde without the form!!!!!

Aldehyde is now found in many products ingredient listings instead of formaldehyde. Could it be it is derived from a natural source? maybe in the same way as we take Ammonia free as being better because MEA is derived from a natural source. It’s classed as natural herbal organic and so we are lead to believe safer and so Ok! when the fermentation takes place it makes ethanol. A grain Alcohol derivative the alkaline required for the process.

Aldehydes when heated with a flat iron to a heat of 450 degrees in the keratin process produce a gas guess what it’s called? No prizes folks but it’s bad stuff and can be carcinogen!

all good stuff i think worth knowing. I write so much on the topic of questioning product and the difference between what we are told an what is withheld. we have to stay current on all these products as they change and become re invented. . Mike very useful link

http://www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/


As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light.Mike B2MR

A special thanks for input and sharing to Pamela Decharo and Sal:

http://www.businessinsurance.com/article/20120108/NEWS05/301089989#


   

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What is an Aldehyde? you need to know


What is an Aldehyde? It’s the new kid on the block in keratin relaxers. Formaldehyde without the form!!!!!
Aldehyde is now found in many products ingredient listings instead of formaldehyde. Could it be it is derived from a natural source? maybe in the same way as we take Ammonia free as being better because MEA is derived from a natural source. It’s classed as natural herbal organic and so we are lead to believe safer and so Ok! when the fermentation takes place it makes ethanol. A grain Alcohol derivative the alkaline required for the process.
Aldehydes when heated with a flat iron to a heat of 450 degrees in the keratin process produce a gas guess what it’s called? No prizes folks but it’s bad stuff and can be carcinogen!
all good stuff i think worth knowing. I write so much on the topic of questioning product and the difference between what we are told an what is withheld. we have to stay current on all these products as they change and become re invented. . Mike very useful link
http://www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/

 
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Posted by on February 29, 2012 in Beauty hair salon

 

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Hair Products danger from Formaldehyde.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

I have decided to post the article as a link to a topic that i hope many of you will read and think about.

The dangers of Formaldehyde in some hair products is real the health and safety issue are real Not all the Keratin base relaxers are dangerous but please do take time to do some research.

Here is a link to a posting on Keratin relaxers

http://back2myroots.co.uk/2011/08/17/keratin-treatment-relaxers-and-more/

More Air Testing Confirms Hazardous Levels of Formaldehyde in the Air During Hair Straightening–So Now What?fashionista.com

be safe keep your clients safe be informed. Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Hair Products danger from Formaldehyde.

Posted by on October 14, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Keratin treatment relaxers and more


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some of this is a re post on the Keratin topic

I feel that these products have now had a good amount of time and exposure enough time has passed so that salons and stylists have had time to use these products.Clients have had them applied and in many cases loved the effects.

The flip side of this is health warnings. Some negative client reviews. Some misleading manufacturer claim’s.

I have spoken to stylists who think the health warnings are a waste of time for the clients want the products. The stylists like the process and the fee they can charge.

I have spoken with a stylist who spent a week in hospital in an oxygen tent having had breathing issues related to breathing in the toxic fumes created when some products are heated to high levels.

So lets review .

This is a long article so please be patient.

I had the good fortune recently to have a discussion with some one from Nano keratin systems who was kind enough to reply to my E-mail asking question about the product and it’s hair straightening properties.

The new trend name for this process is the Brazilian Blow Dry: I find this a tad generic.

Nano technology has been an engineering break through in the hair industry for a while reducing the molecular size of colour pigment to now reducing the keratin Molecule thus making it possible to perform services without having to overly open the cuticle.

Having a basic understanding of keratin and the role it plays in the hair’s structure proved to be most helpful in understanding the Nano keratin System product.

The Nano keratin system is an innovative development at the forefront of technology that utilizes Nano-molecular keratin. The name Nano keratin means. Nano-molecules of keratin. A substance that successfully repairs the core of damaged hair. The Nano-molecules of Nano keratin penetrate hair follicles and repair each strand. Nano keratin system is a microscopic substance and each Nano-molecule is 1/1000 of 1/1,000,000 the size of an original keratin molecule particles are so minute that millions of them can be gathered onto a pin head!

Minute traces of  product and vapor with extraordinary penetration capabilities enter and completely fill damaged hair with Nano-molecular keratin particles. During the next step those Nano-molecules are locked into the hair as additional vapor is infused, thus creating permanent, non-soluble keratin, just like natural keratin!

Regular conditioners and hair treatments sometimes contain protein molecules, but these are too large to penetrate the core of your hair or to be precise. They naturally over the course of time are rinsed out each time you shampoo.  Anything with a larger molecular weight cannot be readily absorbed through the cuticle in to the hair many products try to attain this by changing the pH of the hair in an effort to open the cuticle more! even keratin derived from natural sources such as animal, vegetable or mineral will only lie on or coat the outer shaft of the hair they are to large to be absorbed.

Professional hair care products have always relied on the process of opening up the hair shaft chemically, facilitating the color or perm process then “neutralizing” or stopping the chemical process thus halting the action.

The chemical process has always had the downside of “blossoming the hair shaft – causing what we see as frizz conditioners smoothing products, and moisturizers help to smooth the cuticle layer, but never fully return it to it’s previous pre-chemical luster.

As the world of professional hair care products evolves, we will see nanotechnology play an ever increasing role. Minimizing chemical damage while maximizing health and shine. feeling healthier and easier to style

The process:

Keratin  is the basis of the innovative hair straightening method called keratin relaxing. This method utilizes keratin. Which penetrates hair follicles and completely coats your hair. Hair stylists perform the process using an innovative hair straightening device. This tool allows the keratin dry it becomes like a film of varnish. It penetrates and coats helps make damaged hair seem repaired. ultimately straightens the hair strand.

In our discussion i equated this process to having a slice of Swiss cheese and spreading cream cheese over the top thus filling all the holes I then equated the heat and flat iron process as smoothing down the cuticle whilst hardening the keratin i presume the dissolving substance to be an agent that also closes the cuticle and restores the ph to the hair?

Once the hair strand is coated with a layer of keratin formulation, a dissolving substance is vaporized through an additional process. At the end of this process a reaction called polymerization occurs, filling the hair fissures and making the hair both durable and flexible. Who is suitable for  it is suggested any one as I understand more I will share and inform you with more.

I really can’t imagine any manufacturer of professional hair care products not embracing this technology in the near future. Molecules that measure a mere billionth of a meter will result in products that are infinitely more capable of doing the job intended.

Nanotechnology will undoubtedly bring better and broader lines. The marketplace will fill every niche we could possibly imagine as the world of professional hair care products moves from the world of pH balanced formulations that we all came to know and love.

Over view

Well we have introduced the keratin products and the technology behind them but now to be fair we must look at how they work the good the bad the pro’s and Con’s oh and some of the health warnings that have been associated with some these product’s the full spectrum.

Keratin the key component if the structure of human hair it gives the hair strength shine along with the 19 Amino found in hair moisture playing a hugely important role in the overall condition along with the Ph .

             So lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products:

Ideal for treatment for control and smooth hair:

They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in a effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations.

                                        blown out and ironed.

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons.

Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product  and how and why it works explanation of the process.

Recently I had the good fortune to exchange some discussion with the help people at Kerapure the provided some very interesting information I will share with you. Whilst i don’t have any financial incentive pushing me to mention products this one did seem to have integrity and honest information disclosing many facts. I will put a link at the end to there web site. 

                                                        http://www.kerapure.com/

Some facts: 

How does KERAPURE™ differ from other Brazilian Keratin type Treatments (BKT)? Why do all other BKT contain Formaldehyde or Formaldehyde donors?

In Brazilian Keratin treatments, the formaldehyde is the active ingredient that straightens the hair. Although many Keratin Treatments claim that their products are formaldehyde-free, they actually contain formaldehyde-donor ingredients that when exposed to heat, emit toxic levels of formaldehyde gases. These vapors are not only irritating, but inhalation of these levels of formaldehyde poses a known carcinogenic risk.

Most Brazilian Keratin Treatments contain anywhere from 2% to 12% formaldehyde – and all of these treatments exceed the OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Association) and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) limits for release of formaldehyde vapors by 5 to 10 times the 

The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin.

Charts and tables:

allowable limit.  Health Canada tested multiple hair smoothing products for formaldehyde and published the following results on December 10, 2010:

PRODUCT LEVEL OF FORMALDEHYDE
Brazilian Blowout Smoothing Solution by Brazilian Blowout

8.4

%
Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Teixeira

1.8

%
Advanced Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Teixeira

1.7

%
Chocolate Extreme De-Frizzing Treatment by Marcia Teixeira

1.6

%
Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy Treatment by Copomon (Coppola)

1.8

%
Global Keratin Taming System Strawberry by Global Keratin

3.0

%
Global Keratin Taming System with Juvexin Strawberry Resistant by Global Keratin

4.4

%
Global Keratin Taming System with Juvexin Strawberry Light Wave by Global Keratin

1.4

%
Pro-Collagen RX Keratin Treatment

2.8

%
IStraight Keratin (Advanced Keratin Treatment) by IBS Beauty

2.3

%
Brazilian Thermal Reconstruction by Cadiveu

7.0

%

The following table provides the names of the products and the levels of formaldehyde found in Health Canada’s recent round of testing that concluded in March 2011:

PRODUCT LEVEL OF FORMALDEHYDE
Keratin Complex Express Blowout by Copomon (Coppola)

1.70

%
Brazilian Keratin Treatment (Mint) – Royal Keratin Professional Line by Keratin Connection (This product is also available in Chocolate and Strawberry)

1.54

%
Veloce by La Brasiliana

0.35

%
Zero(Apple) by La Brasiliana (This product is also available in Clear and Mocha)

0.76

%
Moroccan Hair Treatment by Inoar

2.84

%

The following table provides the names of the products which contain unacceptable levels of formaldehyde based on data submitted to Health Canada. Health Canada has not tested these products but based on the information submitted, they are not permitted for sale in Canada.

PRODUCT
Original by La Brasiliana (This product is also available in Original Chocolate)
Domani by La Brasiliana
Spruzzi by La Brasiliana
Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Pro Skin Solutions
Marcia Teixeira Chocolate Extreme De-Frizzing Treatment EU by M&M International
Marcia Teixeira Brazilian Keratin Treatment EU by M&M International

Lastly what is Formaldehyde:

What is Formaldehyde? What are the risks?

Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable gas at room temperature. It has a pungent, distinct odor and may cause a burning sensation to the eyes, nose, and lungs at high concentrations. You are exposed to small amounts of formaldehyde in the air. It occurs from both natural and man made sources although combustion is the largest source. There is usually more formaldehyde present indoors than outdoors and is often used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is irritating to tissues when it comes into direct contact with them. Some people are more sensitive to the effects of formaldehyde than others. The most common symptoms include irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, along with increased tearing, which occurs at air concentrations of about 0.4–3 parts per million (ppm). The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) states that formaldehyde is immediately dangerous to life and health at 20 ppm. The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that formaldehyde may reasonably be anticipated to be a human carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen.  Given its known health risks, it is important to limit exposure to formaldehyde especially in high and repeated concentrations.

What are other names for Formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is also known as methanal, methylene oxide, oxymethylene, methylaldehyde, oxomethane, formalin, aldehyde, formic aldehyde, formol, biformyl, glutaraldehyde, ethyl alcohol, methylene glycol, glyoxal

 

 

So how do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application.

I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions: 

http://www.short-hair-style.com/formaldehydefree-keratin-products-are-carcinogens.html

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

https://mikeb2mr.wordpress.com/2010/08/24/nano-keratin-a-hair-break-through/

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a

Curl interrupted smoothing system.

So how does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde,  

The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application 

Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5.

This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes

The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray.
The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle?

The keratin is manufactured.  

pre any treatment

So my questions yet to be answered 
So the Ammonium Bisulphite is the alkaline certainly sounds like it could be a alkaline but if naturally produced  source it may be called natural! used to open the cuticle so to what level of Ph?  Your Keratin  what is it’s source given that hydrolised human hair keratin has the smallest molecular weight of all the naturally sourced keratin’s? or is your manufactured ie Nano?
Once you add the heat to the Keratin and it hardens giving the hair a shine not unlike a coat of varnish.
Does the colour last longer due to the flat cuticle? when applying colour having already changed the Ph with the Ammonium Bisulphite does this overly effect the fact that most professional colours already have an alkaline in them so to some it might seem we are over processing by opening the cuticle to much given the effects on the Ph of the hair!  Many questions sorry but when educating products or writing about then i like to have as much information as is possible, i used a keratin based  product some 12 years ago so have some understanding of the technology.

In closing 

It sounds like a product that works but really has not been around long enough to know what the effects long term are to hair and health or how well it will be received by stylist and the pay client. 

New innovative products that can give us tools to improve the daily lives of our clients are always so exciting and bring with them hype expectation motivation these keratin based products are all that new and exciting.

As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light.Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Keratin treatment relaxers and more

Posted by on August 17, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Nano Keratin system’s technology:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some of this is a re post on the Keratin topic.

But I feel now some time has passed salons and stylists have had time to use these products.Clients have had them applied and in many cases loved the effects.

The flip side of this is health warnings. Some negative client reviews.

I have spoken to stylists who think the health warnings are a waste of time for the clients want the products. The stylists like the process and the fee they can charge.

I have spoken with a stylist who spent a week in hospital in an oxygen tent having had breathing issues related to breathing in the toxic fumes created when some products are heated to high levels.

So lets review .

This is a long article so please be patient.

I had the good fortune recently to have a discussion with some one from Nano keratin systems who was kind enough to reply to my E-mail asking question about the product and it’s hair straightening properties.

The new trend name for this process is the Brazilian Blow Dry: I find this a tad generic.

Molecules of current size are limited in their ability to penetrate the hair shaft have been limited to the delicate game of chemical invasion by way of perms and colors. Shampoo and conditioning products have historically performed their job topically and have had limited ability to do much else.

Nano technology has been an engineering break through in the hair industry for a while reducing the molecular size of colour pigment to now reducing the keratin Molecule thus making it possible to perform services without having to overly open the cuticle.

Having a basic understanding of keratin and the role it plays in the hair’s structure proved to be most helpful in understanding the Nano keratin System product.

The Nano keratin system is an innovative development at the forefront of technology that utilizes Nano-molecular keratin. The name Nano keratin means. Nano-molecules of keratin. A substance that successfully repairs the core of damaged hair. The Nano-molecules of Nano keratin penetrate hair follicles and repair each strand. Nano keratin system is a microscopic substance and each Nano-molecule is 1/1000 of 1/1,000,000 the size of an original keratin molecule particles are so minute that millions of them can be gathered onto a pin head!

Minute traces of  product and vapor with extraordinary penetration capabilities enter and completely fill damaged hair with Nano-molecular keratin particles. During the next step those Nano-molecules are locked into the hair as additional vapor is infused, thus creating permanent, non-soluble keratin, just like natural keratin!

Regular conditioners and hair treatments sometimes contain protein molecules, but these are too large to penetrate the core of your hair or to be precise. They naturally over the course of time are rinsed out each time you shampoo.  Anything with a larger molecular weight cannot be readily absorbed through the cuticle in to the hair many products try to attain this by changing the pH of the hair in an effort to open the cuticle more! even keratin derived from natural sources such as animal, vegetable or mineral will only lie on or coat the outer shaft of the hair they are to large to be absorbed.

Professional hair care products have always relied on the process of opening up the hair shaft chemically, facilitating the color or perm process then “neutralizing” or stopping the chemical process thus halting the action.

The chemical process has always had the downside of “blossoming the hair shaft – causing what we see as frizz conditioners smoothing products, and moisturizers help to smooth the cuticle layer, but never fully return it to it’s previous pre-chemical luster.

As the world of professional hair care products evolves, we will see nanotechnology play an ever increasing role. Minimizing chemical damage while maximizing health and shine. feeling healthier and easier to style The Nano keratin System appears to revitalizes hair.

The process:

The Nano keration method utilizes the same protein that is found in your hair, keratin, but in its most minute size, thus it is locked into the hair strand where it repairs and nourishes hair immediately. Nano keratin is simply the most advanced technology – the fastest and most efficient method in the world to repair, revitalize and care for your hair. All hair types can benefit from this innovative technology, but the results are particularly impressive in cases of severely damaged hair.

Nano keratin is an innovative, advanced technology that was developed for those men and women who are interested in straightening their hair. Nano-technology has also been successfully applied to the deposit of hair colour molecules the red molecule is the hardest to get into the hair due to it’s size nano Technology has helped  hair scientists and chemist improve success and deposit of the red colour pigment molecules greatly

Nano keratin  is the basis of the innovative hair straightening method called Nano keratin system this method utilizes a Nano-molecular substance. Nano keratin, which penetrates hair follicles and completely coats your hair. Hair stylists perform the process using an innovative hair straightening device. This tool allows the Nano keratin Nano-molecules to penetrate, coat and repair the damaged hair core and ultimately straightens the hair strand.

In our discussion i equated this process to having a slice of Swiss cheese and spreading cream cheese over the top thus filling all the holes I then equated the heat and flat iron process as smoothing down the cuticle whilst hardening the keratin i presume the dissolving substance to be an agent that also closes the cuticle and restores the ph to the hair?

Once the hair strand is coated with a layer of Nano keratin molecules, a dissolving substance is vaporized through an additional process. At the end of this process a

reaction called polymerization occurs, filling the hair fissures and making the hair both durable and flexible.

Who is suitable for  it is suggested any one as i understand more i will share and inform you with more

I really can’t imagine any manufacturer of professional hair care products not embracing this technology in the near future. Molecules that measure a mere billionth of a meter will result in products that are infinitely more capable of doing the job intended.

Nanotechnology will undoubtedly bring better and broader lines. The marketplace will fill every niche we could possibly imagine as the world of professional hair care products moves from the world of pH balanced formulations that we all came to know and love.

Well we have introduced the keratin products and the technology behind them but now to be fair we must look at how they work the good the bad the pro’s and Con’s oh and some of the health warnings that have been associated with some these product’s the full spectrum.

Keratin the key component if the structure of human hair it gives the hair strength shine along with the 19 Amino found in hair moisture playing a hugely important role in the overall condition along with the Ph .

             So lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products:

                          Ideal for treatment for control and smooth hair:

They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in a effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations.

                                     blown out and ironed.

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons.

Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product and how and why it works explanation of the process.

The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin. 

So how do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application.

I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions: 

http://www.short-hair-style.com/formaldehydefree-keratin-products-are-carcinogens.html

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

https://mikeb2mr.wordpress.com/2010/08/24/nano-keratin-a-hair-break-through/

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a

Curl interrupted smoothing system.

So how does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde,  

The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application 

Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5.

This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes

The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray.
The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle?

The keratin is manufactured.  

                                            pre any treatment

So my questions yet to be answered
So the Ammonium Bisulphite is the alkaline certainly sounds like it could be a alkaline but if naturally produced  source it may be called natural! used to open the cuticle so to what level of Ph?  Your Keratin what is it’s source given that hydrolised human hair keratin has the smallest molecular weight of all the naturally sourced keratin’s? or is your manufactured ie Nano?
Once you add the heat to the Keratin and it hardens giving the hair a shine not unlike a coat of varnish.
Does the colour last longer due to the flat cuticle? when applying colour having already changed the Ph with the Ammonium Bisulphite does this overly effect the fact that most professional colours already have an alkaline in them so to some it might seem we are over processing by opening the cuticle to much given the effects on the Ph of the hair!  Many questions sorry but when educating products or writing about then i like to have as much information as is possible, i used a keratin based  product some 12 years ago so have some understanding of the technology.

In closing 

It sounds like a product that works but really has not been around long enough to know what the effects long term are to hair and health or how well it will be received by stylist and the pay client. 

New innovative products that can give us tools to improve the daily lives of our clients are always so exciting and bring with them hype expectation motivation these keratin based products are all that new and exciting.

As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light.Mike B2MR

 

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Brazilian blow out: take care!


Relaxers,Straitners, Keratin, Blow out:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

Sharing a health warning

Over the past week I have written reviews and posted information on the new Keratin hair products designed to relax De frizz promote a healthy look promoted as a system that lasts up to three months without any damage and side effects.platform work

Much of what i read and re-searched was very exciting but as with all products and claims of the new wonder product did it have side effects.

The one thing that did keep coming up as a warning light was initially with the Brazilian Blow out and Formaldehyde the problem being as the heat with the hot iron is applied the fumes can be dangerous. Question raised have and were met with denial in many quarters sadly fears have come to be true as yet only in Canada but a red light is a red light.

So please if using these products take care follow all direction protect your self and your client,

Mike B2MR

Oct. 7, 2010

Brazilian Blowout Solution Contains Formaldehyde

The Issue:
Health Canada is warning Canadians that Brazilian Blowout Solution manufactured by Brazilian Blowout of California has been found to contain unacceptable levels of formaldehyde. The Brazilian Blowout hair smoothing treatment is known to be available at salons across Canada.

Health Canada has received complaints of burning eyes, nose, and throat, breathing difficulties, and one report of hair loss associated with use of the product.

Testing conducted by Health Canada found that the Brazilian Blowout Solution contains 12% formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is permitted in cosmetics at less than 0.2% when used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is a known irritant, sensitizer, and is linked to cancer in humans when inhaled chronically over a long period of time. Health Canada believes that the reactions are being caused by formaldehyde becoming aerosolized during the blow drying and flat ironing stages of the treatment. Any procedure containing formaldehyde above the allowable limits places clients and stylists at increased risk.

Who is Affected:
Consumers receiving hair smoothing treatments using Brazilian Blowout, and stylists performing the treatment may experience reactions of burning eyes, nose, throat, and breathing troubles.

What Consumers Should Do:
Consumers who have had adverse reactions to Brazilian Blowout treatments are advised to seek medical attention. There is no cause for concern for consumers who have used this product and not experienced any reactions.

Stylists who use Brazilian Blowout treatments should immediately stop using the affected product.

Adverse reactions to cosmetics can be reported to Health Canada using a form available on Health Canada’s website.

Consumers and health professionals can contact Consumer Product Safety toll free at 1-866-662-0666.

Source:

* Health Canada, Oct. 7, 2010.

 

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