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Professional Hair colour dye the N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Professional hair colour or hair dye! what role does the N series have in colour choice and formulation? It is the opinion of Some hair colourist and or technicians that “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well. For me and many real professionalthat is not the case I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !  

When you think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? Do you pull out that shade chart? do you use it correctly? Do you trust it? Do you do your own thing? Do you blame the product when colour goes wrong? Do you use it to refer to or in some cases do you just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! [ you may be smiling it happens] more often than you might think!

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment. how it works how what you chose decides the out come the formulation you mix!

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. it’s main job is to deliver natural pigment and control the pigment exposed at the level you are working in.In other words be calibrated to deal with unwanted pigment and warmth.

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour/dye Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it?

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! Hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue you have created. So what do you need? Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural. You have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. You have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it. Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. A Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose, how do i control it! It’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level! So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you! when things go wrong consider what formulation you mixed what you expected from your choice . Most colour lines hair dyes that get change din salons are really down to poor technical ability and not the product. Poor formulation assessment and timing.

A poor Colourist / technician or stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! Education skill knowledge .Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise! have fun. Be professional. Be responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can. Challenge your self and those around you raise standards.

Herbal and organic colours and dyes.

It would not be fair of me to not mention that the same rules apply when using organic and herbal hair colour s and dyes. When they are Ammonia free the processes is still the same. The alkaline has been replaced by something normally sourced from wheat so a gain alcohol derivative becomes the driver in place of the ammonia in most cases the results as the same. The role the  N series plays in these colour lines would be the same. refinement of colour and addressing Grey issues.

Mike B2MR

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Red Copper hair dye and colours maintaining them.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                        Hot Reds, fiery Copper, cool Red!

Be it home hair dye.professional colour good reds and copper hair colours are possible work with a stylist who understands colour the issues hair chart and will work with you on your hair dye issues.

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop, look like swimming pools. Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone. The more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play, we achieve this with the correct choice of peroxide the lifting agent that exposes the pigment we want to use. But even this is a balance to much lift will remove the red and orange, so depending on the vibrancy required we choose the strength of peroxide to expose the pigment we want. unless we are going tone on tone as the swatch is to the right the no lift is required just deposit.

Lets Introduce Dawn our client and Russell her stylist.

Dawn loves to play around with levels of and tones of red and coppers. I many cases this does not always turn out with good results it can sometimes fade quite quickly. Dawn again in their consultation explains to Russell that she has enjoyed being a lighter more copper shade over the summer but wants to know if she can go darker over the winter months. she also want a change of style.

Russell explains that this is possible and that it will not restrict going lighter in the future. He goes on to explain that although the roots would need a permanent colour formulation the rest can be done with a Demi permanent colour formulation. This allows for better colour retention and will allow for a switch back to a lighter or more vibrant colour in the future.

During the consultation with Russell. Dawn mentions that the Grey seems to be getting progressively worse. Russell explains that when natural red or copper hair starts to go Grey or lose it’s pigment it tends to look more salt and pepper this can make it look dull. However the up side is that although not as vibrant in it’s appearance it still has a great deal of gold pigment so receives colour more readily and is still quite easy to get target colour. Dawn has about 25% Grey hair per 2 inch section. This would require that 25% of the root formulation be on the N series at the desired level. Finally Dawn also say’s that although she wants to go darker and more solid it must still work with her skin tone and eye colour. Russell say’s that he totally agrees and that so long as we keep the colour warm and don’t go to dark it will not be problem.

As a note once you go darker than a level 5 you are getting more into brown shades due to the amount of blue pigment found in the colour. Russell brings over a few chosen swatches from the shade chart holding then against her face showing Dawn how the colours work with her skin tone and eye colour. They agree on a level 5 shade with a red almost brunette tone. Dawn say’s she is ready for a change and says thank you for all the explanations.

Down to the colour choice.

Although the target is a level five to use a level 5 formulation would be to dark. Given the percentage of Grey of 25% 5N will provide the pigment for the Grey issue and give the colour depth. The rest of the roots formulation 6RB {red beige} 75% , plus 20 volume peroxide

Mixing ratio 1 part colour to 11/2  times peroxide or mixing 7.5 grams 5N+ 22.5 grams 6RB or 1oz. to 45 grams 20 volume peroxide or1 1/2 oz [30 grams =1 oz]

A little technical i hope not!

The reason behind this would be the 5N provide the pigment and controls the warmth exposed by the peroxide [no hot roots] the 6RB gives depth and tone. To colour balance once the root application has been applied the colour application mid lengths to ends,  just 6RB with a Demi formulation deposit only left on for 20 minutes. After full processing time again off to the back wash fro shampoo and conditioning

.

Remember this was a colour request to address both Grey issues and take the colour darker with an even colour healthy colour, no hot roots or line of demarcation.

Russell sits with Dawn and explains that to colour her roots is a fine balance of using the N series to colour the Grey. But not wanting it to be drab or dulled down warmth has to be kept. One of the dangers Russell explains this is something known as Hot roots! we see them all the time. Sadly done by professionals as well as the at home when using home hair dye applications. It’s caused by to much lift at the roots this brings out to much natural red/orange pigment and lifts the roots to much creating a very bright line. Known as hot roots. In reality it’s a formulation lacking blue pigment.

Above first shots a before shot showing hot root issue dark ends. Below new colour showing rich dark vibrant even colour with textured razor cut.

Remember the Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker.Careful regular maintenance is essential.use of good shampoo and condition at home is also highly recommended. stylist should recommend home hair care retail advise. Finally a happy smiling clients says it all. job well done

Some tips on hot and cool reds,vibrant coppers:

Is it seasonable reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours. When we think of reds their are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.

Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour

choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients Hair. All food for thought? but we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on  tone, to go Darker to lighter the key is to A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain  what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun. use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race.

Using this  method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. Consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job! Discuss with your client a long term plan and vision that allows for change and creativity.

All shots below and above the same model so change is possible so is long term client retention and relationships!

 

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Natural level three wanting high and lowlights


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Naturally Level 3 Natural Asian hair wanting Highlights:
Wanting natural honey shades caramels shades of summer. Cool blonde, creamy caramel sun kissed honey, strawberry are they possible? yes.

How do you feel about working with really Dark hair be it Native American. Japanese. Chinese. Asian.

A challenge to many of us stylists. What do all these different cultures have in common? They all present the same colouring issues. Especially when trying to achieve a really good Blonde beige shades. The issue pigment control unwanted warmth!

Lets Introduce Melissa our client and Linda our stylist.

The issue:

Melissa sits down with Linda for a consultation. Again this is the time Linda can ask the questions to find out about Melissa, her life style, her hair history, her goals. Linda sits with Melissa and as they chat and she takes notes it’s established that Melissa has never coloured her hair, but would like some Blonde and caramel Highlights through the top of her hair. She has shoulder length hair that she enjoys and likes to play with putting it up.

Having listened to Melissa Linda says well as i”m sure you are aware getting your hair to Blonde can have it’s issues.Melissa says yes many of my friends have nasty orange brown hair i don’t want that. I fully understand says Linda. Don’t worry i will explain why this happens and what we can do.

Firstly getting the right shade is always much hard  due to the structure of your hair you have more layers to your cuticle. Secondly and the most important factor is how dark you are naturally you have a great deal Blue pigment this controls any red showing through.But as we start to lift your hair the big issue is always red and orange. Oh i see says Melissa. Linda goes on with an example. She say’s if I lift my natural hair level 4 shades I get blonde as you can see she says smiling! If i lift your hair four levels we will get a red orange shade. So we have to consider our best options and agree on our target shades.

Let me get a shade chart so we can get a shared vision. Great says Melissa. Thank you for explaining all this to me.No worries say’s Linda i like a challenge.

Right say’s Linda here we are. Sitting with Melissa she says you see this top row on the chart with the N yes? Says Melissa, well your natural shade is here second in from the right.That dark? Say’s Melissa. Yep now Linda says [LEVEL6] watch this she counts in four levels from the right including the level started from knowing that this level has to also be lifted through. Oh Say’s Melissa is that it as light as i can be. No say’s Linda I’m just taking you on a little colour journey.

Now she says watch this and Linda counts down 4 levels. Her finger now sitting on then tone line C [COPPER 6CR]  Linda say’s if we lift four levels this is what we can expect, with all that pigment you have. Melissa says this is quite complicated. Not really says Linda but it’s best to be realistic about goals and expectations. Linda says If we lift it to this level we can control all this warmth giving us a nice Caramel shade our second shade. She now moves her finger again on the shade chat to the B level [BEIGE] and says this one 4th in from the right two shades up from the copper [6CR]. Wow says Melissa you can do that yes we can.

I will use a high lift Blonde formulation it takes longer it has a higher level or peroxide for the lift we need and more pigment to control all that warmth here is what we will use to attain this shade.

Right here we are say’s Linda.With another swatch. Now at this point you may be thinking what is going on? well stay with us Linda will explain. Melissa says your using that yes say’s Linda which one do you think she says to Melissa . Who points to the 100B Ok says Linda.  We will be using this one Pointing to the 100A that’s Grey say Melissa ,  Linda laughs no it’s ash and we need all that pigment to control all that red orange .Oh how cool is that. This really is a science Isn’t yes it is says Linda.

Now for the lighter shade we will be using a bleach decolouriser with 20 volume peroxide but will be applying it a number of times. If you like it will be coats or layers or product on top of each other as your hair starts to lift. We will also be working from the ends in toward the scalp as they will take the longest to lift. I’m thinking slightly thicker panels so they show rather than fine weave fine says Melissa I’m in your hands.

Finally says Linda. Our goal is for that 7B beige shade the blonde will be around the 1000B shade that you pointed out and of course your own colour so this look will create three shades and lots of texture and dimension . How does all that sound . Great say’s Melissa I’m excited this will take some time so be patient with me I’m thinking around three to four hours max start to finish. no problem.

Ok lets talk formulation: whilst Linda does some mixing.

First the Caramel shade we can gain a little extra lift by using the 100  it is pigment fee so acts like a booster note [never use more than 25% of this in your formulation or it will dilute down your required pigment]

1/2oz 100+ 11/2oz100A total 2oz [60 grams] 40voume peroxide 4oz [120 grams] this a lot for formula but we have a great deal of hair to deal with [a normal formulation would be half this amount]

Second formulation we may have to mix up more than one lot  seeing a swe are working in towards the scalp

1oz or 1scoop bleach power to approx 2 oz [60grams] 20 volume peroxide mixed into desired consistency.

Back with Linda who now has her trolley papers and product ready to go. She starts to work on the  thicker alternating highlights applying the 100A formulation over full section.

The bleach is applied from the ends into the mid lengths to start with as this starts to lift more product will be applied both to the mid lengths and ends and in to the roots until desired level of lift is attained. Linda works away very skillfully alternating shades applying the product where she wants it every so often checking on hair already starting to lift. As time goes bye Linda starts to apply the bleach formulation closer to the scalp having mixed up two fresh batches of product.

The development time on the on the High lift formulation is 50 minutes 30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit . Knowing that she wants the pigment to control the unwanted warmth exposed she is happy with the way that is progressing. As things moves along Linda is constantly checking on the effective lifting of any given section and then  re applying  product to needed area’s.

Once finished she look at Melissa says now it’s awaiting game to get even lift. She explains mistakes happen when not enough time is taken to get the desired shade of Blonde or level of lift. Linda says I’m happy with the lift and the caramel shade I just need to lighter shade to lift beyond Orange if we can do this i can tone to a desired colour. After much checking Linda says perfect we have a nice even even bright Yellow and that’s the best we expect.Oh say’s Melissa i was hoping for Blonde not yellow.  Don’t worry smiles Linda yellow is good I can tone that to a nice Beige. How Melissa asks well another mistake that is often made is using the wrong toner .Many might reach for a Ash base but that would not be good [Ash is Blue ] blue and yellow make green  not such a good look.

We will use a strong Violet toner this will control the yellow perfectly [The balance restored Violet being red +blue so a perfect balance to the yellow]  She sets to work rinses all the processed colour out . Now to  the work of toning the hair working it thought out the top section. slowly as she works it in the Violet toner works is magic creating the desired tone.

Finally all done Linda as she washes and conditions says I am very happy with this i know it’s taken quite a long time but we have the shades and tones we wanted.

Lets go to my station take a look and style it for you to get the full effect. As you can see from the picture to the left the effect was first class. Controlled blonde with a burnt caramel shade braking up Melissa’s natural darker coloure.It’s only on the surface of her hair the underneath is still dark and solid so a great introduction to colour. Finally Linda advises Melissa on products to maintain the colour and suggests a return visit in a couple of weeks just to check on the tone and that all is well. Melissa  has a face that says it all a very happy client another huge job that was discussed and executed and finished to the highest standard.

Information on Colouring using Highlift blonde shades

The most natural form of High- Low Lights:

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind,Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shades lighter than our natural base shade.Shade stat add dimension tone shine a really natural look. In so many cases client will ask for low lights that give a few shades of lift for a natural look however on so many occasions. they can end up with bleach decolourised cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment with a toner to control the lift.Why can this occur? How does this occur and happen? poor consultation.sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural level hair 1,2,3,4,5  these are what we would normally consider the darker shades Brown through Dark Brown into black {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange! To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.You cannot lift colour with colour!! If a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using a high lift blonde formulation will ‘not’ work. Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour: { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are} My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is.

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  does the product Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required heat can be very bad in the colour process it can cause bleeds due to expansion of product. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7. As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed! The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better  than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

 Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour. Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing! Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing !Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour ! There are many different opinion’s on applying heat to colour. Always follow manufactures instruction, It’s is my thinking that adding heat changes the process. If after our consultation we decide on a formula . That Being tube pigment + Developer= Timing  that process of lift and development.

My thoughts oh added heat:

Consider that heat with a plastic cap. It creates moisture and condensation where does that mositure come from? The formula so it’s changing the chemistry and so the process. Foil highlights with a cap again Condensation in the cap it forces the product to expand rapidly leading to bleeding. With out a cap it will dry the product out as the mixture drys out causing patchy lift on any given section. Always consider what you are trying to achieve patients and timing is the best way learn to manage your time during the process of development.

Thoughts and comments Mike B2MR


 

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Pre lighteners Blonde hair toning


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Bleaching Lifting and Toning:

My goal is to post topic’s on various aspects of our industry. Hair colouring. The process. The techniques.The skill.The knowledge.

All of these skills come together to enable us to carry out many different processes and applications on our clients who trust us to be both skilled and professional.

Bleaching and toning hair is a subject I have covered in the past but it seem’s to get researched for information constantly as stylist’s and client’s look for information on the subject

Full head bleaching or High lighting are a process that requires lifting or lightening the hair to a point of removing enough of the hair’s natural pigment. To then create a natural looking shade from light brown or copper to blonde depending on the natural level or colour of the hair . How do we achieve this?

As always it starts with a consultation with you client or as a client with your stylist. This is key especially with bleaching. Past history. Condition. Goal. Expectation.

At this time it should be decided if the hair is in a condition that is ok for this process. Be it just a root application or new look. If a root application then the key is not to over lap the product onto hair that has already been processed. If in any doubt do a strand test.

Other tests you can do to see if the hair can withstand bleaching.

1/ When wet does it stretch eventually breaking?

2/ Drop a strand test into a glass of water Healthy hair will float. over processed will sink. If this is the case. chances are it over processed and damaged. It will not hold colour much less toner.

Before proceeding a regime of conditioning will be required.Try to get the hair to float in that glass.

Hair Lighteners.  Decolouriser’s Bleach, High lift Blonde Tint.

My reason for putting these thoughts in is because of the amount of very poorly done over processed bleached hair i noticed. Breakage on the crown. Poor and patchy lift. Lack of tone why is this?

Bleach and pre lightening. 

Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking on lightening hair. We have to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works, sounds easy and yet it’s so easy to get it wrong.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms. They are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser. During this lifting process warmth from the hair’s pigmentation is exposed as it lightens. This warmth has to be controlled,the amount exposed is dependant on the Natural level of the hair and the desired amount of lift. so choice of strength of developer plays a key role.

How do these products work.

These are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide. When these two elements are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair, the lightening process begins. Depending on the strength of peroxide plus timing will dictate the amount of lift we can achieve,we must also consider the natural hair level as a starting point. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release. This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation or change in consistency whilst mixing.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners. These are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} 

Lifting ability depends on. The strength of hydrogen peroxide and will also be dictated to by timing and the natural starting level. Having a clear goal of whats expected, or you are trying to achieve is also very important.

Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength’s or Volume 10. 20. 30. 40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications. No higher, always consider the use of heat it’s not always required or advised.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency. They are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process, again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.

{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients.

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide. Magnesium silicate,and sodium, quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, of a desired strength or Volume to attain results.

Take note! If the hair has been coloured with, any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain. It could create a heat reaction this can cause burning so do your home work! Ask the right questions in the consultation process, if in doubt do a strand test. see article on metallic salts in products. 
Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair, it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on or the lifting action is kept going, this would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the  lifting  action going.

Remember the Colour wheel:  {you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

                                             

The stages are as follows

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential. If in doubt do a strand test.

The main reason for this topic is to address toning.  Having lifted the roots to blend be it with previous coloured full head or addressing high lights that are growing out.

We now have to look at the degree of lift and the shade that needs to be toned. At this point understanding the colour wheel is key as is using the correct formulation.

In so many cases the things that can go wrong with toning are. Bad choice of toner. Bad formulation.

Bleached  /decolourised. Lifted hair is by nature very porous and will take any application of toner readily and quickly so once applied stay with it as it works it’s magic.

I class Toning as early stage colour correction it’s an art.

What we are talking about here is. Lift and deposit:

For example. Lets use a natural level 6 this is classed as Dark blonde/mouse. It is a perfect level to work from to introduce natural looking Blonde shade and tone.

There  are many different types of pigment  available to us. From pre mixed tubes of concentrated pigment these might be. Ash . Violet. Amethyst depending on the tone you require.

Normally they will have a shampoo like base and are worked into the hair after the bleach has been washed or rinsed out and prior to conditioning.

Another option. Professional colour pigment tubes some have the ability to allow us to change their chemistry. They deposit pigment with any lift.  Understand your product how they work as well as having a clear goal. Read all instructions carefully.

As you can see with the above chart level six sits within the middle section of the chart. To get to a level of lift to be able to tone. We have to lift four shades into the area of pigment exposed around level 9.

This can be reached with a bleach de-colouriser or it may be possible with a high lift tint using 40 vol developer.

For the sake of this topic we are looking at. We are using an example of bleach being used.

Some may say level 6 to 9 is only three levels but that is misdirection for we have to lift through level 6 to get to level 9! In real terms we are looking at 4 levels max depending on the pigment base you want to work with. ie How much yellow you want to work with to create your shade and tone.

For levels of lift the above chart will show levels and timing from said developers:

Once we have reached a target of lifted shade to a nice even base pale yellow would be desired for a nice blonde. Anything from a very light Orange hue to very pale yellow will give an acceptable level of lift and pigment for toning Blonde.

This chart above Shows.  Both undertone exposed through the lifting process and then the pigment required to tone to a natural shade at the level lifted to.

Note you will be working at levels 8 to 10 anything darker that this will be more like low lights caramel or burnt honey tones. Because you will still have an orange hue. Darker than level 8/7 and down. It should be noted that really shades darker than level 7 are not really classed as blonde.

This I think is where mistakes are made. Considering the level of lift choosing the desired pigment required to tone. To often Ash toner is reached for. When you can see from the chart Ash really will only work for pigments that are of an Orange hue. Ash pigment used as a toner on. Yellow will create a Green hue! Why? Well what does yellow and Blue make ! da Green

Think about our primary colours the secondary shades then think it’s all about balance adding back what we have removed,But at the level we have exposed or are working in.

Guess what it’s back to know understanding trusting the colour wheel and the law of colour.

A small very basic colour wheel but easy to understand Opposites neutralise so yellow requires Violet!

Nice healthy natural shades of blonde lifted and then tones for dimension.

Healthy good condition long blonde hair is possible. It takes time patients client and stylist working together.

Finally bleached and toned full head colour all is possible . Use the right products understand these products. choose the correct formulation and timing.Think the process through!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour correction challenges


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR : Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                   Hair Colour Correction:

I have decide this week to post topic’s on. Bleaching. Toning. and of course colour correction. Colour correction that journey into the unknown. That adventure that we have to be fully prepared for. the one that can and will at some point challenge us all.

To succeed we need. Knowledge.Skill. Technical ability. Good products and what? Communication and consultation skills. Colour correction starts with consultation!

Elasticity.Porosity.Moisture level. Overall condition key to successful out come and application.

An honest consultation who wants to end up with! An over processed shapeless mess!hardly an endorsement of ones skill or ability.

After a few days of postings hopefully providing information on many aspects of hair colouring.From the colour wheel to Ph Chart . reviews of Pigment. Lift. Deposit. Tone developers timing.With all the information provided one should have more knowledge to embark on corrective hair colour issues.

A huge topic how do you define or categorise it? What is classed as corrective colour? cause concerns Options:

Causes.

Client has Indulged in a cocktail hair colour party trying to get that salon look at home on the cheap! Or Sadly a poorly done colour service done by an unskilled hairdresser.

A mixture of both of the above some salon visits some home colour therapy! Can and will result in need of expert help and advise.

What must we consider when Taking on a Corrective colour  challenge?

Do some salon over charge for this service? sadly yes in many cases!

Are all stylists qualified to do this service? certainly not many just don’t have the knowledge and experience!

Are clients punished because they need this service? Yes, quite often they can feel like they are being punished.

The key to successful colour correction are as follows:  

Firstly as a client consumer. If you find your self in this dire situation. I really think it’s time to take stock seek out professional advise from someone who knows what they are doing. A professional that you as a client can trust.A person that has your best interest at heart!

Please don’t just buy another box of instant over the counter wonderful fix!

If it’s a poorly done Job by a hairdresser. I would suggest refund go else where. I would not trust them to put right a wrong!

As a Stylist:

If you as a stylist don’t feel comfortable. Don’t feel you have the skills to do corrective work, be big enough to admit it! Drop the ego get the skill.

The Key to successful Correction. Is communication and honesty by all concerned. History, concerns,  reservations, Expectations, should all be discussed.

The Consultation

This must be an honest conversation. Both parties must decide on a goal and what can realistically be achieved! {it is worth noting that correction can take more than one visit}

A Commitment to work together for how ever long this journey might take.

During the consultation, a stylist must use all tools available to them. Ask as many questions as possible thus getting a full history of events running up to this point!

Touch and feel,visual study of the hair.{ look for banding. fading. build up. breakage.porosity.} 

Do a strand test. Healthy hair floats, over processed hair sinks. Hair that sinks will not hold colour! Step one is to re build that moisture level 

How ever challenging the correction is. How ever good you are. We all like a challenge and to show off!   { oh yes it’s correction so big earner!}  But make sure you know what you doing. Are your up to the task.

What is classed as corrective hair work? Badly done Colour, Wrong Colour or shade. Poor coverage issues. Over Deposit. Damage by over process long term abuse.                                                                                         

Picture to the above is corrective from the first shot:

Colour added but existing Blonde utilised. Colours added all Demi formulation for deposit no lift

Stylist consider this 

If at the end of the day you don’t get a good feeling about. The client commitment or if it’s not going to be a good advert for your skill. Why take it on? EGO!

Think about this. Really damaged over processed hair, that is fading, falling apart a lot to take on. As soon as you agree to attempt to correct this you are saying. I take on full responsibility for this and all that has been done in the past!

A huge risk. Remember if it’s not going to be a good advert for you, that it can cause damage to your reputation. Hard as it is their is nothing wrong with saying. I’m sorry this is just to damaged to work with at this time. Recommend products see if there is commitment to work with you!

If the motivator is driven by your fee you should not be doing it!  

You should be thinking long term. This could be a long term relationship with a client. One who will trust you for ever, so be honest look at it as an investment! educate them.

The Next Step: 

So we have decided that we can and want to proceed:

Corrective Colour will usually be one or a combination of the following:

*Wrong level: the hair is to dark or too light.

*Wrong Tone: the hair is to warm {Orange} to cool {ash}

*Uneven colour: Dark ends. Lines of demarcation. light { hot} regrowth.

* Insufficient or poor Grey coverage.

* Colour that won’t holds on ends and or fade very quickly.

The key to understanding corrective colour is. The understanding of what pigment is missing from the hair. What needs to be replaced or removed?

Hair colour is about balance and harmony. Ask your self do i want utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? The chart below shows the relationship of tone and corrective tone. Remember that perfect balance of our primary colours Red, yellow, blue.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow}So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

You must learn to trust these charts to get the correct results:

It would not be possible to give an example of a corrective case, They are all different just way to many possibilities and things to watch out for.

Problems:

Colour may not be removed evenly over the entire head. Due mainly to varying porosity and build up. Always work from dark to light! Repeat on dark areas before moving on to lighter area. Be patient always protect virgin hair – regrowth.

Lifting the cuticle causes damage to the hair shaft. Rule use as little chemistry as possible, protect that condition get that hair Ph back to 5.5!

Test the hair: 

Do not remove colour if:

* Hair is extremely porous or slimy, does it stretch when wet? sort of cotton wool Like!

*Skin is broken and or sensitive.

*Do a stand test, do a skin test be safe.

Repeat performance:

In a perfect world we could say this is a one off service! But be prepared for follow up fine tuning to get the perfect results.

Decolourizer or Bleach  one of the key tools needed for corrective service when mixed with the correct volume of Hydrogen peroxide on the market now many really good colour removers. 

Finally:

Follow-up this involves. Recommending the correct products, to maintain the colour and hair condition it’s your prescription for success!

Book a follow up appointment. Within two weeks is ideal, so colour retention can be checked and adjusted if necessary!

Remember it’s a journey an adventure with the right tools knowledge and education correction can be fun!    { if you don’t have the skills and confidence seek help get the knowledge}

 

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Hair colouring and techniques idea’s


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

 Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                             sharing thoughts

Over the years hair coloring techniques have changed with the times with the demands. From. Fashion trends. The constant demands for new looks for individual looks requiring new techniques and skills, that allow us to create new looks to correct and possible camouflage poorly or badly done hair colour.

In some cases colour that is so badly done or damaged. That the last resort calls for radical action maybe a perky cut or as a last resort a wig. Yes this can and does happen. but it should not it need not! how ever extreme a look it can still have a eye stopping edge and look great!

Formerly lightening/lifting jet-black hair would mean hours of bleaching.This would leave hair in. Poor condition. Unhealthy and over processed. Often with orange red mid-lengths and ends. With yellow roots more straw like than anything close to blonde. In some cases those looking for strawberry blond commonly end up with some shade of red or copper.

We now have some colour removing products on the market. These are worth considering when wanting to go from light to dark but always do a strand test. Get professional advise or a consultation.For those wanting to try a darker shade. Without care thought and attention to the process a Gothic look caused from going to dark can happen. Bad hair, Bad High lights is quite common place!

Modern hair coloring techniques and liberation of colour and appearance have made fire-engine red a fashion trend for some. Instead of a hair coloring catastrophe this can be a acceptable life saver now days when the removal of dark hair fails and a red hue takes over. It’s is possible over time working with your client to change both look and colour. [ above shot and below same model]

Modern hair coloring techniques can when done correctly add true dimension and tone working with the  natural movement and swing of your hair cut and style.

Highlights and low lights are just a few of the choices that enhance both your hair your face style and appearance.  In addition hair coloring techniques include paneling and chunks, semi permanent and Demi permanent colour to refresh and brighten colour as it fades.

Types of Hair Coloring Techniques


Highlights:

Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brighten and add shine. Highlights work best on blonde to warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied with permanent hair color, but after time should be carried out colour balancing by addressing root issues and refreshing the previous colour with a gentle formulation

Problems can and will arise when continued permanent colour is continuously laid over previously coloured hair.

Low lights:

A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color.  low lights add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a dramatic, trendy look. this process can be applied with various shades can also be very effective when wanting to add darker shades of colour putting darker low lights can add as much dimension and tone as introducing lighter shade.

It is worth noting. That when going tone on tone and darker that a Demi formulation is sufficient when going darker we do not have to lift hair as part of the process. a common mistake made! if you go darker with a permanent colour you will introduce warmth to the chosen shade!

Refreshing: 

Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a richer tone over a permanent shade.

Paneling /Chunks: 

Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. or dramatic Blonde it is a hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding vibrant shades and bright  trendy colors to natural hair color.

Hair Coloring Technique Processes
 that are used most often are highlighting and low lights. Many different methods are used to achieve this effect. It’s my opinion the one that needs the least skill, is when your stylist pulls small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances your basic hair color the cap tends to not get as close to the root as other techniques and the holes dictate where the highlight goes with a cap only one shade can be applied at a time.

Foiling: 

Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root. many different techniques and products for this method papers foil it is favored by professionals and colour technicians.

freehand painting:

A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific areas and hand paints them with color. working with the wave and the way the hair naturally falls this  technique creates a dramatic implementation of a hair coloring technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance!

It’s important to note that although kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques. Professional stylists have the skill that comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like Grey, platinum, and black hair. It would be recommended to consult a professional if you intend to try a new hair color technique at home!  products designed for home use do not perform in the same manner as professional colour and techniques and application come with training and experience.

For many blog topic’s and to leave comment join and follow oh have fun but be professional. thanks Mike B2MR

 

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Permanent hair colour The N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some colourist say “rules are made for breaking” Hum! Ego! is alive and well.

I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !

  

When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Be it to refer to or in some cases,do we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! Do we understand what we can learn how to use the chart correctly? Have we read the technical manual with it? Do we understand it !

[ you may be smiling it happens]

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. over use of the n series in a colour formulation can and will drab out your colour! Under use in a formulation can result in hot roots!

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.

Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. Back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it? The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. what do we need?

Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural.  We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.

Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose how do i control it! it’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!

Please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you.

A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control

the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!

have fun. But be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can.

Mike B2MR

 

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