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Multi toned low lights.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

Low Light Colour a technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades:

How can one create this look?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look. It’s back to that consultation or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project. If you really want healthy hair soft multi tonal colour.

There are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required, the tone and shade being used.

Lets use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde. One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured  or never processed hair. The Look tends to be a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair.

In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots, for the sake of this lets not go to complicated. So we will presume grown out Highlights and low lights. This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is creating a lighter brighter look lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very bright ends. Ombre technique.

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colour would be to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer.

I would suggest using on our pre-coloured hair  three different levels of Bleach decolouriser fading them into each other. How? You may ask.

Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions.

2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.

You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to.

Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade  desired. If going darker you will not leave lift only a Demi formulation.

If wanting lighter or richer more vibrant some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history.

But again play with both colour and level of peroxide. Just remember as you up the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! yes a balancing act. over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour!

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice here is my choice and suggestion.

Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

So my choice would be 8A or 9A .why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time think through both. Timing, application, formulation, use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique.

You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation.

remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would  use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area. So two different formulation on each weave.

have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results. Mike B2MR

 

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Full head hair bleaching


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

                                                          How not to bleach!

How to Bleach your hair:

A huge topic with so many different answers options variables.

Above i found this information for bleaching a head maybe it was put up in jest if that was the case it’s in bad taste and dangerous in content therefore very misleading!

If not in jest then very dangerous if taken seriously by some one.

lets look at it in a little depth:

Step one suggested supplies.

I would suggest for an on scalp bleach an oil bleach rather than a powder. {why} powder bleach is harsh on the scalp, has a tendency to dry out creating patchy lift.

Oil bleach mixed with booster will give even lift and will not dry out. { Do not mix with any higher volume of peroxide than 20vol} Skin test and possible stand test is advisable.

*If a virgin application start at the ends  work up to roots, the roots will always lift the fastest.

*If a re-application try not to over lap re-growth application over hair already bleached.

*If trying to lift out one fashion shade to apply another go carefully don’t just slap bleach all over remember this hair has already been lifted so is fragile.

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

                                  If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Got side tracked as is aid huge topic, foil is not advisable for an all over application some schools of thought advocate heat, i do not!

The biggest heat loss in the body is through the head so why not use this if heat is required a plastic bag over the application with suffice. { heat only seems to speed up the process but given that the formulation for lift is dependent on the volume of peroxide chosen why rush it’s a process} 

Lets Touch on second stage mix powder bleach until creamy!

How informative is that!  normally direction and mixing instruction come with products they need to be followed, the goal is to get the correct mix of lifting agent to peroxide.

With powder bleach normally 1-part Bleach decolourizer powder to 2-parts peroxide but follow each products instructions:

No Mention of Gloves!!

                                                                        [as stated on scalp no more than 20 vol}

example of colour home kit  contents on right oil base with boosters:

below on left natural level  on right lift attained

I recommended oil bleach this comes with a bottle of liquid+sachets of powder you can mix one or two sachets or boosters with the correct amount of liquid. mix together until a gel then add the recommended    amount of peroxide mix thoroughly.

Another option for removing  some of the fashion shades is Colour remover it works very well but i must state that some of the fashion shades really stain  heavy build up of staining can cause problems.

                                  lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair.Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting, Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:             

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

Mixing:  

Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. it has no limits it can remove all pigment form the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!


All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange   


To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?


To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

    

                                            http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!

Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon  one cannot be to careful.

Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.

Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon

Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

Mike B2MR

                                                           Oh Finally Gloves at all times!!!!!

                                                         Share your thought with me on this site:

  


               

                  



 
Comments Off on Full head hair bleaching

Posted by on October 6, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair Colour: What is a demi application.how it works


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

What is Demi colour? How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift.

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair.

The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be.  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.

Formulation: for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair Bleaching Toning Condition Damage


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

 

High Lift bleach Powder

lifting agent bleach powder:

 

Hair Lighteners: Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

 

Hair Lighteners  and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

 

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

 

 

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!}

 

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

 

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide}

Dark shade can be lifted but pigment ha stobe considered

 

 

 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

 

 

 

 

Mixing: Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

product choice

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

 

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

 

What is toner

High lift blonde shade also toners
High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  Deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!


All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange


Bleached lifted but in need of toning

To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?


To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!

Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon  one cannot be to careful.

 

Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.

Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon

Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

 

Mike B2MR

 

 


 

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