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The N series and Beyond:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some colourist say “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well.

I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel” it works !

When we think about hair colour when we pull out that shade chart whether it be to refer to it or in some cases drop it in a clients lap and say what colour do you want today!!![ you may be smiling it happens]

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.

The N series is designed for what? to give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair, it can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal.

My question today is do you consider what the process is what your asking of any given shade?

Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.

Why do i ask this because it’s key the same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series, so back to question pigmentation.

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean?

Well lets think about our level 8 natural level, If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams 8N

45grams 20vol peroxide  what will happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift

by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

So having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide we now have to hope that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created so what do we need?

Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural,  we have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level , we have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.

Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit  that is what am i going to expose how do i control it!

its; balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

the same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds, our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates whether our colour will be really bright or controlled why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!

So please consider it not just a tube that works wonders ! it’s a tube if pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you!

A poor colourist technician stylist will always blame the colour the reality is it’s not the colour!

Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge ,

Think about what your wanting from that colour understand it read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! it’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it, maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. also what pigment base will control

the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!

have fun.    Mike B2MR

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Hair color. Hair colouring.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Poor and bad information! all that we read all that is posted is not sound advise: always do lots of research.

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

So lets take a look.

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                        1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLORED HAIR CARE TIPS

Colored and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade.

Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair.

Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style & shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protectant for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material.

please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Thanks MikeB2MR

 

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