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Hair colour: Hair Colouring techniques.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                            sharing thought

Over the years hair coloring techniques. 

Have changed with the times with the demands. From. Fashion trends. The constant demands for new looks for individual looks requiring new techniques and skills, that allow us to create new looks to correct and possible camouflage poorly or badly done hair colour.

In some cases colour that is so badly done or damaged. That the last resort calls for radical action maybe a perky cut or as a last resort a wig. Yes this can and does happen.

Formerly lightening/lifting jet-black hair would mean hours of bleaching.This would leave hair in. Poor condition. Unhealthy and over processed. Often with orange red mid-lengths and ends. With yellow roots more straw like than anything close to blonde. In some cases those looking for strawberry blond commonly end up with some shade of red or copper.

We now have some colour removing products on the market. These are worth considering when wanting to go from light to dark but always do a strand test. Get professional advise or a consultation.

For those wanting to try a darker shade. Without care thought and attention to the process a Gothic look caused from going to dark can happen. Bad hair Bad High lights is quite common place!

Modern hair coloring techniques and liberation of colour and appearance have made fire-engine red a fashion trend for some. Instead of a hair coloring catastrophe this can be a acceptable life saver now days when the removal of dark hair fails and a red hue takes over.

Hair coloring techniques can when done correctly add true dimension and tone working with the natural movement and swing of your hair cut and style.

Highlights and low lights are just a few of the choices that enhance both your hair your face style and appearance.  In addition hair coloring techniques include paneling and chunks, semi permanent and Demi permanent colour to refresh and brighten colour as it fades.

Types of Hair Coloring Techniques


Highlights:

Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brighten and add shine. Highlights work best on blonde to warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied with permanent hair color, but after time should be carried out colour balancing by addressing root issues and refreshing the previous colour with a gentle formulation

Problems can and will arise when continued permanent colour is continuously laid over previously coloured hair.

Low lights:

A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color.  low lights add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a dramatic, trendy look. this process can be applied with various shades can also be very effective when wanting to add darker shades of colour

putting darker low lights can add as much dimension and tone as introducing lighter shade.

It is worth noting. That when going tone on tone and darker that a Demi formulation is sufficient when going darker we do not have to lift hair as part of the process. a common mistake made! if you go darker with a permanent colour you will introduce warmth to the chosen shade!

Refreshing: 

Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a richer tone over a permanent shade.

 Paneling /Chunks: 

Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. or dramatic Blonde it is a hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding vibrant shades and bright trendy colors to natural hair color.

Hair Coloring Technique Processes
 that are used most often are highlighting and low lights. Many different methods are used to achieve this effect. It’s my opinion the one that needs the least skill, is when your stylist pulls small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances your basic hair color the cap tends to not get as close to the root as other techniques and the holes dictate where the highlight goes with a cap only one shade can be applied at a time.

Foiling: 

Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root. many different techniques and products for this method papers foil

it is favored by professionals and colour technicians.

freehand painting:

A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific areas and hand paints them with color. working with the wave and the way the hair naturally falls this  technique creates a dramatic implementation of a hair coloring technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance!

It’s important to note that although kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques. Professional stylists have the skill that comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like Grey, platinum, and black hair. It would be recommended to consult a professional if you intend to try a new hair color technique at home!  products designed for home use do not perform in the same manner as professional colour and techniques and application come with training and experience.

For many blog topic’s and to leave comment join and follow oh have fun but be professional. Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour Demi application formulation:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

What is Demi colour how does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish.

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex, although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair.

The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black!

Formulation: for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results, this way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair color. Hair colouring.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Poor and bad information! all that we read all that is posted is not sound advise: always do lots of research.

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

So lets take a look.

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                        1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLORED HAIR CARE TIPS

Colored and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade.

Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair.

Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style & shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protectant for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material.

please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Thanks MikeB2MR

 

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Summer time Blonde:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Summer perfect time to try being Blonde

Its summer the perfect time to consider going blonde having that sun kissed  hot holiday hair colour to match that fun summer tan if you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you, Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play fro a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone, skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead, apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. this will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. for very long hair highlights are a better from of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde, take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde this might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light if your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

For dark brunettes, a deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it Try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.

Choose your colour carefully consider all your options you maybe seek professional advise And remember, combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.

Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!and in the fall with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.

Mike B2MR

 

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Blonde & in Hong Kong


I have arrived

picture say 1000 words

I have posted many pictures and articles on the subject of blonde hair and the correct way to highlight it.

So a chance to post pictures of my work but in a totally different setting was quite appealing. I do so with full consent of the model for it was her trip her adventure.

The reason for going down this route rather than staying totally on topic is that doing hair talking about hair is only a small part of the equation of feeling and looking good easy to forget that the reason for getting ones hair done is to feel and look good

How one feels and looks is what makes us feel special dressing up being seen getting looked at are all reasons but they are all external the main one is to feel good in side taking care of ones self be that ones hair skin health are all part of the same well being.

When we stop caring when we stop making an effort its time for a personal conversation with your self that honest look in the mirror.

I very fortunate to have played my small roll in this by being able to colour and maintain her hair and know it looks good  so for my part and why i can write about this in my hair blog its striving to do ones best to know that what you do represents you skill your passion and is helping someone feel good about them self.

I write and post on these blog sites to share thoughts and experience maybe educate in an honest manner but also connect.

The main blog site posted below is very informative on many aspects of the hair industry techniques, education, reviews join in check it out add comments thoughts idea’s

Thanks Mike B2MR  http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/

 

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Brunette and red heads:


Deep Brunette hair colour

This Brunette hair colour was created to give the hair depth and shine.

Colour Balanced permanent formulation on the roots Demi formulation to re fresh mid lengths and ends.

Changing ones colour can always be hard but with patients and planning moving with colour range is possible.

Going from deep dark colours to bright full of life copper reds.

For that vibrant summer colour

The same model takes on new look with her hair colour for summer.

In general the reds and coppers are the hardest to maintain and keep rich and vibrant. So it is really important not to over process the hair and look after condition and try to avoid lots direct sun light.

This is a more solid look than the above style but still razor cut to allow softness and movement.

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/

Vibrant colour reds coppers!

 

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Red, Copper, Hot!


volume colour texture

full volume and summer colours

Natural level 10 real hair to colour

making hair extension

Coloured the above hair using two different shades. Permanent colour was used on the ends, whilst the mid lengths and ends had Demi formulation copper on the top section darker level 5 red under section.

The two examples of extension one pre coloured were then processed to match in perfectly for up do extension hair piece to give soft look and volume.

It is possible to re build pigment on real hair by layering desired colours on top of each other in this case copper and reds. fun vibrant rich summer colour.

 

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