RSS

Tag Archives: Herbal

Hair colouring: Lift, shade, deposit and tone:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following on from previous postings on.the following topic’s:

The colour wheel .The law of color as it relates to hair colouring. The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.

It’s now time to look developers lift tone deposit and how they work:

                permanent colour requires cream colour 20 vol

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

The Colour it’s self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi    application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift. It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} so to bring balance to a correct level 7 we would look for a shade with a blue pigmentation or tone.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify:

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex. The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours:

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level. We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.Problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue]. Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine. Wrong formulation. Excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.Wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

                  low vol developer ideal for colour balancing

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally: Herbal or Organic Colour: These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative. Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline. Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour. We are now flooded with adds marketing HERBAL, NATURAL, ORGANIC, Ammonia free products without being given any idea of what the replacement chemistry might be.How it works or what it does. Why don’t we ask questions? seek answers? Why are we so trusting? This colour chemistry revolution is already in home colour hair kits.They promote safety healthy hair. Quick fix ammonia free colour. Is this really professional? The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA: As engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

Some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly.The MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

My hope is that some find this useful and that it makes you question. What your use and why! Is it really so natural organic and healthy!!!!!!

Mike B2MR


Advertisements
 

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Hair colour. Is it Herbal, organic,natural or chemical?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                   Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across them.With so many manufacture’s producing and making claim so so many innovative colour break throughs we have to take some time to try and understand what is on offer.What makes them so different in. How they work. What they do. What we can expect from them we have to know and understand the chemistry of all such products.

Claims that is natural health and organic are not enough.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See past Blog for information on MEA.

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/2011/03/hair-colour-and-alkalinity-ph.html

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote: below.

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them so i can share a review with you all.Sadly nothing was ever forth coming!

I am now waiting fro some information on another colour line so stay tuned!

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Hair colour Herbal organic natural or chemical? Hum


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.

I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across. We owe it to our selves and indeed our clients to be informed have all the facts and information about new products as they come to the market place and so the salon.

Many colour lines now have so many ways of manipulating the way the colour is deposited what makes one bottle seem chemically safe for the may hide a different result when mixed with part B! some times low chemistry in parts A and B create a double trouble when mixed. read the formulation see what you are using. Stay and be informed be a true questioning professional.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See information brief description on MEA below in article. 

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote:

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

So in preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

So as quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 
Comments Off on Hair colour Herbal organic natural or chemical? Hum

Posted by on September 22, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

Our love of hair colour. All things natural.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Our Love with Hair colour:

Be it organic based all natural or synthetic our love of hair Colour is never ending so we need to be well informed.

Here are some facts and useful basic information.

 

                                                 Primary Colours: Pure Colour.

 

 

These are pure Colours they cannot be made by mixing others Colours together.

We use colour. To describe people and emotions. e.g Green with envy, feeling  down feeling Blue, seeing Red, Red with anger.

Colour surrounds us constantly changing sky. Blooming flowers.

A world with out colour would be a very dull world indeed. We even use colour to describe how we feel warm cold excited tranquil.

We use hair colour. To describe people. We have all been guilty of Stereotyping people because by hair colour. Their look.

 

The Big debate.  Gentlemen prefer Blondes! Blondes have more fun! or do they just get noticed quicker? or as suggested in some circle,  ‘Just get dirty quicker’!

The Fire associated with red heads hot head out spoken, head strong! or is it self confidence?

The Brunette. Safe Approachable. Natural, health. Inwardly content? maybe.

Throughout the ages we have explored different products some natural some chemical to dye and stain our hair be it short term or longer lasting.

 


Examples of these would be as follows:

True vegetable Dyes: The are derived from Herbs. Plants . Flowers. Vegetables and Bark.

As a note. These natural alternatives. Do not contain Alkaline be that Ammonia. MEA or products produced from grain Alcohol added to them.

They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine.

Advantages. Natural stain will not enter hair shaft may build up over time. Disadvantage will not cover Grey hair.

TIP Vegetable rinses and Infusions should not be used on Chemically treated hair!

 


Henna as a Colour

Red Henna comes from. The dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.

Natural henna comes from the crushed root.

Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products with formulation that have contained Ammonia. Hydrogen Peroxide.

if in any doubt  do a strand test. Strong dis coloration. An unpleasant smell no colour change. Uneven results down hair shaft. In some case applying permanent colour over the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!

 

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!

Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.

{Again before attempting any new colour strand test is essential!}

 

                                                   SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR

Rich dark Chocolate Brown!
Semi permanent Colour will make the same hair depth as the Natural base shade, good for changing tones gold,red, copper, Burgundy,

It works by depositing relatively small colour Molecules in the hair [Red molecule is the largest of all] these products generally have a Ph around 8 to 9 so they do open the cuticle a little, over time can build up and stain ! But in normal case they fade with shampooing as it’s only a partial deposit.

Used a a good introduction with clients to colour. {remember results will vary given hair type, condition, clients colour history, the chemistry of the product, sadly some colour companies mislead us} 

  

Advantages:

Useful for enhancing hair colour or refreshing tint applications. adds shine and Gloss.ideal for bold fashion statement . Safe to use on Permed hair .

Disadvantage:

Wash out four to six weeks depending on frequency of washing. Result can be patchy uneven, cannot lighten hair. Over time may build up causing longer term staining.



Permanent Colour: 

Permanent hair colour affords us the ultimate service: allowing us the choices of infinite shades full Grey coverage. These dyes lighten the hairs natural melanin and tint at the same time. These Dyes will only become effective when mixed with hydrogen peroxide a topic i will cover down the road but at this juncture i will advise the level of peroxide one chooses can and will effect the colour you choose and final result on so many levels! normally comes in  strengths of 10. 3% 20.6% 30.9% 40.12%Volume  Hydrogen Peroxide comes in levels up to 100% nothing more than 40% is recommended for hair application.

[At this point i think things will get to technical if i out line how this process works contact me to discuss}

Problems to watch out for:

Colour fade  this is generally due to the cuticle being raised or damaged. allowing the colour wash out and fade.  This can be result of over processing porosity and Ph of the hair. 

Another huge mistake many make when doing permanent colour is a root-regrowth application and then combing through that same formulation after a period of time to the mid-lenghts and ends. this leads to muddy colour and over processing one should always colour balance.{ topic for future discussion}.


                                                          Rich reds are possible.


 

Hair resistant to colour:

Strong white or Grey or cause thick  hair the cuticle scales packed close together. In this instance we might need to pre-soften one school of thought is to run 10 vol 3%through the hair leave for 20 mins rinse cool water prior to applying colour.

I think That given that 10 Vol 3% alone could still give some lift and given that Grey hair still holds pigment I might suggest an alternative.

Having chosen you desired natural target level mix as a pre-soften solution 1 part N series{target level} with 1.5 or 1 1/2 times water leave for 20 mins. after this apply your target colour directly  over this  application. {proceed as normal root application colour balance.}

 

Natural Blonde looks with highlights

Advantages :

permanently changes hair colour,

Can lighten and tone at the same time,

100%Grey coverage,

wide choice colour, versatility,

Disadvantages:

requires Client commitment to regular process,

Colour fade especially if hair is or becomes over processed.

Risk of skin allergy irritation : {always do skin test}

In my next blog I will talk about peroxide hair Lift, exposing different pigment in the hair, becoming part of the colour equation,

 

 

Many colours can be added to create texture and dimension,

Cool red, natural blonde, beige, we just need to consider the head of hair we are working on.

Finally in these days of hot straitening irons, craving for the sun, Chlorine build up we have to be super careful.

Condition protect cover up ! have fun Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Our love of hair colour. All things natural.

Posted by on August 2, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Hair Colour: Brief history and facts


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s,a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

 

Brief history and some sound information on the chemistry and development of all hair be it professional or home.

Ammonia  PPD Free Hair Colour Ingredients:

 

PPD Free Hair Colour ingredients-

Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?} As does the newest colour  delivery system  MEA based from ethanol-Ammonia see a pattern.

 

 

Ammonia Friend or foe!

 

The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:

Ammonia – This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide.

Like all alkaline products ammonia tends to separate or open the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair changes the Ph from our desired 5 to 5.5 to 7 and beyond.

Detergent are also an Alkaline when we mix detergent and small amount ammonia we can create a very basic foaming semi permanent or a shampoo rinse!

 

Hydrogen Peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color.

Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction] for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.

 

 

Alternatives to industrial  professional tints:

These would be known as natural hair colour derived from plants and root extract, not to be confused with some of the herbal ammonia free hair colour marketed today. 

It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.

Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colors.

 

These PPD.free products are said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based .These products are available in a variety of different formats those being. Temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options.

However, these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain alcohol known as Denatured alcohol for example Silicone and oils.

 

So it makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour!

Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation.

 

Types Of Products:
Hair colourDyes are available today in all forms. Liquid, powder, oil, cream and gel, etc. Mascaras, crayons and sprays are used as temporary and semi-permanent dying, whereas gel and other forms are used for permanent styling.

Once again the products all have a different edge hook oil, silicone, metallic salt. wax. the list goes on!

We are  all unique! and no one else has exactly the same hue as you!

You might look black, brown, red or blonde, but there are subtle differences.Amazingly nature creates a different dye for everyone using only two types of the natural pigments “melanin”: umelanin (black pigment) and pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment).

In most case the skin colour and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.

It is all of these pigments that we encounter when deciding to embark on hair colouring. It is this pigment and levels natural shade that we consider when making decisions on a new colour formulations. Knowing what products are how they work the chemistry of any given products is key to being successful and making the correct colour choice and formulation decision.

 

I hope this has helped you a little please leave comments views and thoughts Mike B2MR

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Hair colour Herbal Organic natural or …..


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

Looking At Hair colour products!

 

 

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.

I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See past Blog for information on MEA

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/2010/08/new-ammonia-free-mea-hair-colour.html

 

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release pack. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

 

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote:

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

 

 

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as possible start with 10vol 3%.

 

So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

 

So in preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

 

So as quick review our options are.

 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

 

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

 

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

In closing instead of marketing as ammonia free suggesting hair colour technology break through why not be professional and just market as an alternative alkaline!

 

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

Tags: , , , , ,

 
%d bloggers like this: