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Blonde issues and thoughts


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Time to move on lets look at Blonde hair colouring issues :

Lets start with a case study of Highlights and low lights  [lift and deposit] This in it self can create many issues both from a technical stance and from a client stylist relationship point of view. Many years of experience have shown me that when a client is unhappy with her blonde hair the maintenance required and yes the cost things can start to go down hill on the communication front.

Let me introduce to you our client Emily and our Stylist Ted.

Emily has long hair and is a natural level 6 [mouse/rat] she loves being blonde but over time feels that she has lost the highlighted look that she so loved and that the maintenance and cost is starting to become an issue an condition is starting to be a worry!

The consultation: Ted sit down with Emily and off the bat say’s you have no idea how many young women like your self i have this conversation with. Just how common place this issue is. But don’t worry it’s fixable today and maintainable for the future. Oh really says Emily that is so good to hear I was worried that was future was turning very dark! Does this look ring any bells with you as a stylist? Back with. Ted he begins to explain that over time sadly the highlighted look can get lost it’s a mixture of a few factors, some responsibility for this falls with you the client some with us stylist’s. Yes he say’s not perfect just trying to be! They both laugh another good sign.

Firstly says Ted. I agree that Blonde works well for you you have the perfect natural base shade the problem is over time you and your stylist have allowed your hair to get to blonde. It has lost any any depth and tone and just become a bleached highlighted look.You see say’s Ted the lighter we allow you hair to the quicker the roots will appear. It’s not intentionally done it creeps up. But it’s my opinion that we as stylist’s owe it you as our clients to be honest and some times draw the line when it comes to letting you go blonder and blonder!  Ted goes on to say. We have to explain to you what we think is best.You may not always listen or like what you hear, but hey you are paying me for my professional advise as well as my skill. Wow say’s Emily that’s a first no one have ever told me all that.

Well here is what we are going to do.

Firstly only Highlight the top half of your head and this will be some highlights to keep you blonde and we will re introduce two other shades.One shade at your natural level and a nice Beige to pull it all together. we will then fill in all the under section of your hair taking it back to your own colour. Ted explains that the darker under section will look more natural and look way better when Emily put her hair up. Emily says sounds great lets do it!

A Formulation for this: 

Roots 1oz [30 grams ] Bleach powder with 2oz [60 grams] 2o Volume peroxide.This will be used on the weaved highlights but only on the roots and with a slight over lap to prevent banding.

Second formulation is two mixtures:

8N with 30 Volume. Why more lift but the pigmentation of the 8N will control the yellow orange we will expose making it a nice beige.1oz 8N  11/2 oz 30 volume peroxide roots only Mid lengths and ends 8B Demi lotion formulation mixing ration 1oz 8B to 2oz Demi lotion developer for mid lengths and ends so we are in effect lifting and depositing at the same time.[ mark your bowls so you don’t mix them up] Final Formulation 6B as a Demi formulation  for deposit only this is also the shade we will run through the under section again no lift just deposit. 2oz 6B 4oz Demi lotion developer enough to do both the low light and go straight in to the under section application. Making full use of your time and not wasting product.

Once all the formulations mixed up Ted sets to work. Oh says Emily you don’t use foil no say’s Ted I like these waxed papers they stay much closer to the roots they don’t slip less pain when i take them out! Oh i like the sound of that says Emily, it’s always painful.Not today says Ted! Once all done the process time will be dependent on the last few Highlights we have put in says Ted. But don’t worry I stared at the front so they will be a little blonder and we will not lift the crown as much. the Darker shade is none progressive so stops once it reached desired colour. So all good be patient no heat but will not be to long. they wait the out come.

Ted checks the progress a couple of times and after 30 Minutes it ready to come off he takes all the papers out and then rinses very quickly holding the highlighted hair away from the darker underneath once it’s all rinsed of colour it’s a normal shampoo and conditioning process.

Remember those dark roots that line of demarcation? All gone and blended in. Now we have a very natural looking Blonde with highlights and low lights to tone it down and control the root issue. Emily say’s she is so happy it’s the best it’s been is such a long time. Ted says leave it as long as possible our goal is to get you coming back every three months. Why are not all hairdresser like you most say 6 weeks are says Ted. Here is the deal you like your hair you tell your friends you and your friends and their friends keep me busy  to the point that i can only see you every three months!Oh says Emily i see  me and my friends keep you busy I hope so says Ted.

Oh and as for the under section check this out! As a form of re colouring and depositing pigment I cannot express enough what a wonderful gentle formulation a Demi application is. It will give even depth and tone without the need for and lift. Its a satin finish that loos so natural. give it a try. I think that as stylists we have so many options choices of technique and products at our disposal, we are truly very lucky. Oh and having great clients helps. We have so many issues that can arise when working with our clients to create that natural blonde look to maintain it.The key is communication and honesty. Our clients will always push to be that little bit blonder it’s up to us as professional to some times to pull the reins in to prevent future issues.

What are these issues, They normal arise from over processing, poor condition, colour fading. longevity of colour lasting, leading to cost issues. Always keep your client on track be open about maintenance issues cost of up keep. Remember your the professional your in control.

As promised some extra views and thoughts on some Blonde hair issues 

I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair,  badly done highlights and streaks examples of this can come in many forms. Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone. In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair.

Patchy streaks dull blonde caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer, then  selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice. All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head. Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base. If your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

                             blonde high lights low lights

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots! Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is    it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation look touch question. but remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

Herbal, Ammonia free, no lift, no peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!! get all the information you can be the best you can understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider.  The above is a perfect balance of high lights and low lights a very natural multi-tonal look.

Well we are having a very varied day and lets be honest the time needed to deal with all these issues is quite considerable. But with all the knowledge we had and all the new knowledge we have we should be coping very well.

enjoy Mike B2MR

 

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Highlights and low lights techniques.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience. and most importantly sharing.

The art of hair colouring is a passion to me. As it is with so many hair colour technician’s. True professionals know that having both the technical and practical skills are key to being successful. Maintaining standards and being current is also key.

I would like to try and cover some points that relate to high lighting, with the various products available to us! when we think High lights we are naturally drawn to thinking Blonde. Consider adding more natural tone sand shades . Mixing low lights and high lights.

It seems as I monitor key search words that the most searched topic’s that come up are always relating to issues around blonde hair highlights bleach and tone.The other key search being searches on all topic’s related to the colour wheel the law’s of colour controlling pigment shade and tone.

I hope that although a topic written on many times this is of help and pushes some buttons regarding process and techniques skill and understanding.

In am fortunate that I get to meet so many salons and so to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. I like to watch techniques hang out with technician chatting about techniques and products. Always trying to discover a stylist’s favourite. what is the current chosen product. Many use foils some use easy mesh. I use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding as much as some other products might during the process time and as the product expands. A thing that can happen with foil easy mesh or many of the products available to us, especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced.

One of the biggest thing I observe with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken attention to detail. Those being foil placement formulation application. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired. But we also have to consider the evenness of the weave desired thick fine ect. The cleanness of section.The application of product. oh and formulation.

We have to remember that when taking section we are not working on a flat surface it’s curved so we have to structure out sectioning pattern to accommodate this plain.

However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to! consider all the curves as indicated below.

Lets take some time to reflect and review on sectioning and placement :

My question is on sectioning it’s hard to write about i wish i had a way to draw on screen any way here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!

when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.

The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.

The below although for cutting indicates well the sections and angles discussed.

How do we get round this? By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.

take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Look at those roots that re-growth consider formulation how you are going to run your colour to deal with root issue. Try not to over lap any bleach! decide on your weave pattern. Discuss with your client the look .Highlights thick streaks fine weave high light and low lights final goal!

How do your Highlights stack up ! maybe you should take a little more time with placement sectioning foil placement!

I speak from experience I used to book highlights back to back i could weave full head in just over half an hour.  Would I do this now ‘No’ it’s not the way to work to do things or get the best results.

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections it all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

If you are interested in the waxed high light papers here is some contact information for you.

Also a useful link for the papers:          http://www.sparenity.com/

Hope these tip helps to some degree. Feed back and comments are always welcome on content and or future topic’s it helps keep things current.

Mike B2MR

 

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Elegant evening and cocktail hair!


                                 Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR 

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

We like nothing more than a reason to celebrate and party  for women dressing up is a full package make up clothes style and of course hair. Some times down and styled

but for evening party and theatre or just to feel special putting hair up is very special

Working with our clients to find and create that perfect hair Up-do that special look  for an evening out or event and of course that very special day the wedding day making her feel princess for a day.

becoming good and indeed comfortable with putting hair up does not come easy to all stylists in-fact some never master the art or feel comfortable doing it. Sad it is such a creative part of what we do and is a service we should be able to offer our clients.

It’s a fear we should face and get over. A skill we should like all others master.

In these out takes session or practice sessions we can work towards the look we are trying to create Practice is not a right or wrong .Its taking time to get used to the hair the way it feels how it sit and likes to fall. You might as i did decided  a look such as this to busy and disjointed and no braids! moving on:

We decided both these looks we liked the swirl but not big enough and just a little to much going on again we agreed on this whilst look at digital shots on the comp of each look. takes time but well worth it

The look below we dismissed as being a little to much like a french pleat! as classic but not in this case the look or feel we are trying for discuss with your client how they feel about any look you create this is how you can establish that your working together .

As you can see quite a few looks can be explored. Patients on both sides is key to this process and so very key to the crating and finding the final look. A look that show off colour texture. Some looks I like  but others just missed a little something  until one just pooed out! It is my opinion that some of these up do looks area mess but i had to post them to show the journey one take sand how this evolves it does not just happen. even top stylist practice a look so it looks easy and it works!

these last two were the end of day one and i think show quite the journey of how things evolve shapes form ideas come to life

These last two shots show off a look but they also show texture and show off the highlights oh and the beauty of the bride to be. Whilst doing this exercise we had i deal i would not see the dress but would find a look that would do it justice.

We discovered on the day the the pleat and the texture created  worked the same way as the fabric of the back of the dress

Master the art be creative have confidence enjoy creating remember it’s not always about money the rewards can be so much greater!!

Be inspired don’t be put off with or by client request master your art always be confident remember practice makes perfect But also relives the unwanted stress of the up /do request.

Mike B2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Solid hair colour to highlights.final look.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

I am re posting this but with an update on the final look having worked together over the past year to grow length and change colour form the solid  first seen to a honey copper with some blonde tones. please re read article and see final results.

It will show that will patients and communication any thing is possible.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Well this past week end was crunch time.

When we have been working with a client for a long time building up trust and mutual respect  Some times we have to take a step back especially as issues change. Maybe those percentage of Grey hair, overall look and style.

You may well have played with shades and tones and formulations. As we all know a colour can and will look different just by using a different level of developer.

Well sadly as the Grey is creeps in as re growth is appearing quicker and the depth of deposit and so longevity of vibrancy was getting lost.

Time to think a little lighter. Time to think high lights and low lights a mixture of shades. being the long term goal.

As you can see below: When first done this colour looks rich warm healthy looking:

Well I knew and know from experience this is not a quick or easy task, nor can one take short cuts!  No not because it’s my wife although that plays a part! But because this colour and so degree of deposit has built up over time so to get an even lift  down the full shaft of  hair i would have to start lifting from the ends in running a couple of different formulation.

I like to use papers for high lighting and find the best ones that don’t slip and will stay right up to the root without bleeding are Hi Lit Wraps By W.R Rayson. They come in various sizes are waxed paper so bio degrade with time. I will post a link at the end of Article.

Although an older shot from my archive: This shot below gives a very good example of the issues being faced. Roots and faded washed out colour.

I decided on my course of action my goal was to lift to a golden blonde at this time so that in the future we can high light and low light still adding some warm shades. But for now it’s breaking up a solid colour but with even lift. Fine highlights and low lights.

I would run 20 vol bleach decolouriser from end to mid lengths and 10 vol decolouriser mid lengths for now no root application for they will lift and go to light to quickly.

Once applied i left them on with visual timing as the correct shade was reached so i took them out a rinsed with water. Once this was complete and I was happy with the shade the full head was rinsed really well and then dried off.

Now a root assessment  to blend them in the lift achieved i Decided on two formulations her natural level is 7 but around 7G  so i used a 9N with 20 vol for the roots 1 part colour 1 1/2 developer  knowing the violet under tone would control anything to yellow This was applied only to the roots / regrowth.

Formulation.

I also used a Demi formulation of 9B for deposit only just to add a burnt honey tone through the newly lightened hair. so yes i put in a second set of high lights over the first but ended up with target shade and colour no banding and even lift. Taking us on the road to a lighter all over effect without it look yellow dull or drab.

The 9B has a green base at a level 9. So when applied over the existing copper it will neutralise to some degree thus creating a burnt honey tone. controlling the copper.

The process:

From now on it will be some lift with a low volume bleach decolouriser and some low lights of different shades depending on time of year . Less root issue and multi tonal shades for life and texture.

As promised here is some contact for the Hi Lite wraps.I am in the Uk and have found them very helpful with regard to service.

                       hi lite wraps at work right to root

This collection of shots is to show the advantages of the Hi lite wraps the model in shot was having blonde high lights this is not part of the discussed above colour process. These wraps are so easy to use very light and fold over very easily. They are easy to manage when sliding them in to the roots clean neat section’s is the key working off of sections working with the shape and curve of the head and always taking into account the hair line and growth patterns.

When removing they pull out with ease with out snagging or any discomfort to the client.

                   many papers very neat to work with.
For any one interested in the Hi-Lite wraps. Contact me  for information

Finally the look we set out to create low maintenance colour that could be achieved with highlights and low lights without going to blonde or using to much bleach decolouriser. As you have read to start with we had to use a bleach to lift out colour and give an even light tone  as per shots above.

Now we are able to use level 9 tones to create a honey gold and also copper warm tones as a low light. Using 20 vol peroxide and colour balancing utilising the hair’s natural pigment. 

We are now only having to colour every 8 to 10 weeks instead of every 4 to 5, better condition of the hair softer look gained client through recommendation. It’s a win win the client is in less but her friends are keeping me just as busy and guess what ? they also have friends.

I supply this information on this colour journey i hope you agree that the colour change and added length are a great example of stylist and client working together trusting each other mutual respect communication.

 

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Blonde hair Winter management.


Natural looking Highlights

                              Blonde winter Management:

Blondes 

Women and indeed some men have a love affair with being Blonde that Healthy, Natural, Sexy.

Trying to recapture that healthy sun kissed look once summer has ended can be difficult some times a disaster but done well following some advise and guide lines can help avoid mistakes.

In these challenging economic times some clients resort to home hair colour always looks so amazing in the commercial the reality is that one has to decide on so many factors when choosing a hair colour and blondes can be very challenging.

The hardest part is choosing the right product and shade so you get the desired lift shade or tone

Working with the over the counter colour creates many issues for you. The shade fades into either a nice shade of yellow or brassy mess with an orange hue or a nice green tinge.The condition can feel compromised.

In so many cases Highlights and other techniques start off a boost to enhance a natural look but over time  it’s very easy to get to that point of needing the roots re touched every 6 weeks more so after a summer of colouring and the ravages from the sun for a more natural blonde look it’s time for some low lights the introduction of some tone and texture to those blonde locks!

More so as we enter into the autumn and winter months less tan less sun shine the darker those roots look.  Time to introduce some low lights Tone on tone dimensional shades to add depth and shine and reduce those roots or that regrowth!

Lets be honest here! this issue of going overly blonde is caused by both client and stylist the client wants  to be that little bit blonder a pick me up, we as stylist thinks hey fine at the end of the day it’s another colour job bigger bill higher commission trust me i have been their I don’t write this from some place of Judgment just fact and experience.

I am going to post a few different shots in the blog and talk about them for me being successful is of course being busy having good client retention and getting recommendations new clients. over the years i have learned that being honest with clients setting targets goals works really well it earns respect trust and you keep your clients.

It is my firm Belief that good highlights can last 3 months sometimes longer is this bad for business? well  consider this a good job that last longer gets you new recommended clients keeps you busy and yet you are not over colouring its working with the client its working with the base colour think of the head and hair as your canvas remember your the artist.

                        This is a 4 month re growth.needs some help but still looks sort of ok!

This client when i first started working with her was colouring her hair with Highlights every six weeks when first done looked nice but roots started showing within weeks the highlights were done with just Bleach/ decolourizer yes makes Blonde but the hair was very over processed due to over lap of the coloring had no shine and the condition was poor she also wanted to grow her hair but found she could not!  she enjoyed being blonde in the summer but was open to the suggestion of low lights over the winter months

The not growing is caused by breakage as fast as it grows it breaks off through brushing combing ect. we talked through all the issue i explained options and a goal of going longer in between services made sense why had it never been suggested before? 

So we started on this new journey together our Goal Long healthy natural looking Blonde hair for my part i asked for a 1 year commitment to see this through here are the results. 



For those interested in the colors used! Natural level 6

A 20 volume Bleach roots only no overlap,

8N with 20 Volume roots only [I know the 8n has a Blue Violet under tone so using it on a natural level six will expose orange in the hair but the Blue Violet will Neutralize it to a beige Blonde!]

Finally a level 6RB beige red, roots to ends but with Demi deposit no lift when going tone on tone or darker lift is not required.

As the season change so the degree or ratio of light to dark can change a constantly evolving colour we only ever coloured from just below the crown forward not a full head this creates natural dimension in the under section depth and makes putting hair up much easier know lines from growing out streaks.

As tip the natural shade of the un-coloured under section is a good guide line for the depth of the low lights if for example a level 6 then choose level 6 low lights they can be warm gold cool but they are in the right shade family.

This formulation does have a very low level of peroxide to activate the colour with out lift. [in this instance a low Ammonia based colour 0.4%.]

:

Blonde hair colour reviews

As my re-search into hair colour blogs and new places to read reviews find helpful information I’m amazed at the content the misinformation or lack of content.

I really enjoy the sights that allow you post comments and share thoughts ones that don’t edit you response.

Below are some highlights from an article its ok but it rather lacking in informative content it does not give any real information it strokes the surface but then leaves you hanging lets take a look.

I will put the article in question in small bold print!

Good Colours to Dye Blonde hair:

Choosing a flattering shade or colour depends on a couple of different factors ideally you want to choose a shade that is flattering to your skin tone and eye colour. so the colour that is best for one may not be right for another. even if they both have blonde hair, luckily there are ways to decide on a colour to get the best possible results, read on to tips to help you choose.

So far so good sounds interesting agree on considering skin tone eye colour they contribute to how a colour looks. How it shows off the  the final look.


 

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The love of being Blonde.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.


Blonde hair colour reviews:

As my re-search into hair colour blogs and new places to read reviews find helpful information I’m amazed at the content the misinformation or lack of content.

I really enjoy the sights that allow you post comments and share thoughts ones that don’t edit you response.

Below are some highlights from an article its ok but it rather lacking in informative content it does not give any real information it strokes the surface but then leaves you hanging lets take a look.

I will put the article in question in small bold print!

Good Colours to Dye Blonde hair:

Choosing a flattering shade or colour depends on a couple of different factors ideally you want to choose a shade that is flattering to your skin tone and eye colour. so the colour that is best for one may not be right for another. even if they both have blonde hair, luckily there are ways to decide on a colour to get the best possible results, read on to tips to help you choose.

So far so good sounds interesting agree on considering skin tone eye colour they contribute to how a colour looks.

Warm and cool

Skin tone is probably the single biggest factor in determining what colour will look good on a person  followed by eye colour, to make a decision based on these factors determines whether you are warm or cool type. The majority of natural blondes will be cool with fair skin that burns before tanning, blue or green eyes. if you have olive or golden skin that tans easily and brown eyes , you are warm.

 

Ok this is where i loose the plot it’s way to sweeping my wife has green eyes tans easily and bright red hair! I have dark brown hair green eyes and burn inside on a sunny day! it’s just not helpful it’s to sweeping as a statement it confuses.

Hum so i disagree this infers or suggest what? nothing if you have olive or golden skin forget going blonde! that’s going to upset a few people like half of  Hollywood!

Moving on:

For cool Blondes, cool brown to ash tones will typically be the most flattering, coppery should be avoided as they bring out the red in  your skin tone.

For warm blondes look for gold and bronze tones that are darker than your skin. very light shades with brassiness can be harsh on a warm skin tone, avoid black as it will wash you skin tone out!

Model below natural level 7 blue eyes i think the red works?

 

 

So if you have Mediterranean skin colour forget blonde. if you suntan! again far to sweeping. and what about all those amazing Italian Blondes!

Shades

A good rule of thumb is to only go two shade lighter or darker than your own skin colour,to dramatic a change can look very awkward if you are not going for a bold statement colour.

For example many people who go from very light colour to Black complain it makes their skin look very purple.this is likely because someone with naturally blonde hair would not have the right skin tone to support such a dark colour.

 

Well on this bases if you Dark Blonde natural level 6 guess what  if you want to go lighter you will never be blonde  two shades lighter giver you an under tone of orange! now that will not work with your skin colour will it!

Blonde to Black their are people with blue eyes and black hair! again does not go far enough to inform correctly.

Don’t trust the Box:

If your going to do a home dye job,be careful not to completely trust the picture on the box!

{go figure best advise in this article so far} the picture may be misleading if the model has a different

skin, eye, colour underlying hair colour from yours. most boxes have a colour swatch on the top of the box.{always a big help} that you can hold up to your face in front of a mirror also look for key words like Ash and caramel to help you work out if it will compliment your natural warm or cool tones.

You can also do a strand test to see if the colour will work for you before you dye the entire head.

 

                                    To the right dark blonde natural level 6 blonde it works!

OMG! so you can tell if it’s going to look good by holding the box to your face! Ash Caramel do what? do you know? are you any clearer. [think not}

Ash is designed to neutralize Orange. Caramel is what you might end up with if you neutralize orange!

Ash is not the answer to all you prayers.

My past blogs explain all the issues of tone lift colours  this was an exercise in misinformation.

Knowledge is power  A little knowledge is dangerous get informed.

If in doubt go and have a consultation with a professional stylist to get real colour advise! don’t rely on half cocked info such as this. moving on lets take a look at Blondes

                                   Blonde lets get to the bottom of it!

 

A good example of why we some times struggle to attain a really nice natural level of Blonde   is there are so many factors that have to be considered, first and foremost hair natural level target level the colour we want colour.

Unfortunately the over the counter box can be misleading in the way they are presented don’t be taken in by packaging or the shade on the box

Some stylist just don’t fully comprehend the lifting process,

Choice of product is key be it professional or a store purchase.

Any natural level darker than level 6 this would be a [Dark Blonde] will not lift to natural Blonde level 9 it will always have a tendency to be to warm orange or yellow.

Why because of the underlying pigment exposed. With a natural level 6 expecting more than a level 9 from a permanent tint colour is still pushing things in most cases you will always be fighting warmth.

Even using a 40 volume peroxide and a high lift Tint level 9 is max although many colour companies claim 4levels of lift with 40 volume that only takes you to a 9 why?

We have to lift through level 6 then level 7 then level 8 finally 9 so it does not go 4 levels so 6 to level 10 is an unlikely target colour

We have to see through what some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp, to make application easier are all part of this process portraying that oils protect add shine.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

 

Consider this would a hair colour with a low volume of Ammonia be less harmful than products posted as being herbal natural but don’t fully disclose what they have in the them or where they are sourced from i find the idea of colour that works miracles in 10 minutes should be seriously wondered about!

It is also key to have a consultation with a stylist ask questions  i try on this site to inform both hairdressers  and the client be clear about what you want be clear about your expectation be clear about the upkeep maintenance.

I read so many articles that give misleading information or partial information on colouring,

yes skin type eye colour they are all things to consider in the consultation phase ask for swatches to be held against you face does it bring out your eyes? do the pop! home colour a part from researching the product maybe try on a wig see if it works for you!

We have products claiming to be organic all natural deep condition and so on but really think what we are asking these products to do then decide if they can be really that wonderfully healthy and natural recently i was reading about an all natural product but in its description stated a blend of all natural flowers, vegetables, with added hair dye!da it’s all in the print. get informed. then go Blonde with the knowledge of what your doing or having done.

Thanks Mike

 
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Posted by on September 13, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Summer time Blonde.Autumn tone down.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Summer perfect time to be Blonde: But?

 

 

Last weeks of summer. The perfect time to consider that blonde look. That sun kissed look we have loved over the summer months whilst enjoying  those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan.

If you have had the need. Have had the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun blonde look?

now we have to consider the autumn and maybe introducing some low lights so those roots don’t get out of hand!

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.

Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style. Focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will maintain you on the road to staying blonde with out over processing and leaving you with some texture and tones in your hair caramel. burnt honey. beige. These can all be added with a Demi formulation so deposit only very little chemistry zero lift on hair that has already been lifted.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

 

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards. consider tones that will work for you over the coming months as the tan fades and the sun gets lower. Think of the trees and the colours of the leaf as autumn takes it’s hold.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

 

 

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it. Try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.

Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

                              A series of different looks and different styles on blonde hair

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

Shades of Blonde with texture:

In the Fall or Autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.

You can still be Blonde with a touch of controlled tone down less root issue more dimension and texture. Have fun

Mike B2MR

 

 

 
Comments Off on Summer time Blonde.Autumn tone down.

Posted by on August 24, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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