Tag Archives: home hair colour

powerful stuff Home hair colour

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR


 Home hair colour night mare !!  well worth a look. Mike B2MR


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Posted by on March 13, 2012 in Beauty hair salon


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Our love affair with home hair colour

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR


Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS.
Why is home hair colour such big business? Why is it in such demand? cost ? time? ease of use? yes of course. Consider advertising promotion celebrity endorsement products branded by brand name professional stylists. Daily bombardment of beautiful natural style you can create at home from this box of wonder.Hard to ignore right!

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject . Offer some advise and share some experiences gained from so many great years in our industry.  It’s very cool.

I will try and cover some subjects from the every day challenges to the creative over the top looks oh and some of the hair nightmares we get to fix and advise on! We all need to do understand how things happen and why ! 

Misuse of products. Miss information. Inpatients and not following guide lines and instructions. We can all be guilty of these things at some point in our career! I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching. Lift deposit.Toning. Damage. Condition. I have decided that as topic’s they can always be re visited.  Reviewed in depth see most recent topic’s on all subjects.  In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

                           A list of topic’s that may well be added to:

Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe: 

Bleaching Root application.

I also think at this juncture. That it is worth mentioning that.  Not all home colours be they permanent tints or fun fashion shade are what they claim to be. It’s buyer beware. If  your wondering should I colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test.

Take a strand test. Remove a small amount of your processed hair and drop it into a glass of water. If it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. If you have a history of colouring and bleaching it on a regular bases. It may feel slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted! will not hold colour.

Many Products:  Claiming to be. Ammonia free have something else doing the same Job an Alkaline. MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives. Other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.[see past posting on subject] They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts. This is why it’s essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat. 

                    In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

I hope that this information is helpful and that the topic’s  covered do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair. Without knowledge of the products chemistry or formulation the risks of a chemical reaction or poor results or indeed allergic reaction can be a risk.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:


Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hairthey can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                        1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10 Extra light Blonde   10/0


Colored and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade.

Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair.

Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style & shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material.

please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Although I offer sound advise. Every head is different the  history on any given head is different so information and advise offered is only guidance. Although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

If in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment. 

All of the topic’s and articles posted are designed and share knowledge and experience Hoping to inspire and raise standards.

Mike B2MR            


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Home hair colour:

When it comes to home hair colour how do we choose:

We open a fashion magazine, We are bombarded on Tv with stunning models, shinning healthy hair, with all natural Ammonia free, conditioning colour all within 10 minutes:

As a professional stylist we all have an opinion on home hair colour the damage that can be done the mistakes that can be made the disaster we get to fix.

Their are so many things to consider when choosing over the counter colour:

For the consumer the things to consider who do they ask for advise? { The person in the isle re stocking?}

How qualified are they to advise. They are not just look at their hair!

Things you need to consider:

1* your natural hair colour,  2* do you have colour on your hair now? if so you need to consider if your new choice will work.  Dark to light will not work . Dark to lighter shade of Red will not work!

3* What is the Condition of your hair? 4* Have you been colouring your hair for a long time?5* how does it feel when it’s wet? does it mat together an indication of over processing.

That Healthy Image: Does Avocado or Avocado oil really help hair condition: the answer is no! nor do products that smell of natural perfume from flowers extract  from fruit.

Lets look at a young lady who decides to brighten her hair she seen the adds just wants that gloss that extra healthy shinny look.

So she goes into the shop chooses a shade close to her own  take sit home its a tad messy but when done loves the look.

Her hair feels fuller it’s shinny she look and feels great, Six weeks later the colour has faded the hair seems to lack luster maybe a slight regrowth depending on choice of product.

So it’s back to the shop but the same shade again back home re applies once again happy but notes that the hair does not seem so soft harder to comb through.

Well this goes on but after maybe three or four application a root is now appearing after 4 to 6 weeks the ends as they fade seem lighter slightly orange or gold.{ do we get an ash shade}

So now do we choose a different colour if we carry on applying the same colour roots to ends the mid length’s and ends will be over process.

Think about it the new-growth re-growth is hair that has never been coloured before the mid length’s and ends have now been coloured a number of times.

This over time over processing builds up on the hair it can and will cause damage the roots need a different formulation from the hair that has been coloured a number of times.

Symptoms of this build up and over processing are:

1* Hair will feel limp. look dull as it fades.

2* colour retention gets less and less.

3* When wet washed it will mat together have a rough or caustic feel .

It’s time to take a break seek professional advise,  conditioning to get moisture back into your hair is key.

from a professional view it’s get moisture back into the hair get the Ph back to normal, with many over the counter colours deposit of the colour pigment can be through changing the Ph of the hair to open the cuticle allowing the colour to stain and deposit into the cortex.

Working with clients with the above issue is a journey  to share together i don’t consider these colour issues as corrective , more of sharing knowledge with clients educating them how to move forward helping them to get the colour and condition they want.

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