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New style new look cut colour reds and coppers


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

When we think of red hair colours tones and shades there are just so many shades to choose from. Hot reds, Warm controlled reds. Copper shades all the way through to cool blue mauve reds.

The red shades are the hardest to get to last the hardest to keep that rich true colour. why? because of the size of the colour molecule. Either we have to open the cuticle to much or the colour acts like a stain on the outer surface of the hair and it washes out. Finally the hair is over processed before we start. wrong formulation. many issues.

The rule is hardest to get into the hair last to come out!

Choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide the correct formulation are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients hair to give depth and longevity to colour. If we use to higher volume of peroxide we can lift the hair to much lifting out any red or orange and giving us a yellow orange pigment base. Always consider target colour and what will be exposed in the lifting process.

                      Faded dull with Grey root issue

All food for thought? We also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance on mid lengths and ends. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem. Then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage how much of our N series might be required.

Hot roots are normally caused by lack of N natural series or formulation incorrect the volume of peroxide and lift required high the volume the more lift, so more warmth exposed. Whats required? A controlling green or blue base if to bright.With these examples of red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model. oh and no hot roots! even colour rot to tip balanced.

                        Rich vibrant even colour root to end

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages. Work up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone. To go Darker to lighter the key is to use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise.

A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.

Consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

Take into account any issues during the consultation Grey issues can be resolved so you don’t have a thin deposit or  hot roots . Remember Grey issues will require some amount of the N natural series in the root formulation the level of peroxide you choose is the other deciding factor.

The model above to the right  has a Grey issue but as you can see a rich vibrant even colour is possible

As you can see from these last shots. all new same model new  deeper richer red almost brunette shade.  Why? Well as we are dealing with a little more Grey a to vibrant  copper could cause it to  look thin and with a possible bright roots issue. A razor cut to create texture and movement no scissors used also added more texture with my claw finger razor’s.

I hope that is article is helpful and that it creates thought about lift deposit and target colour. Remember consider the issues and the environment you are working on.

 It is possible over time to take reds and indeed solid brunette lighter it’s best done with patient and a clear vision and understanding of process and final look or goal. above is on the way to the shade we are trying to reach.

Goal a light copper honey shade that will enable us to highlight and get away from a solid colour and the issue of roots because of the amount of grey hair.

The final look and colour we worked together for it’s a journey but well worth while I hope that this has been helpful and instructive as always comments views thoughts

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour cut shape form


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

The hair Cut, a hair creation, a style, a look, a fashion setting trend, a statement of individuality.

So if all of these are the case why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone with any thought to some very basic points, or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create!

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Will is suite this person do they have the right hair type features can they carry it off?

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don’t do this are we really doing our job to it’s fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? we live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts?

answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few,.

I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it’s life, guess what it’s raining it’s Grey it’s damp what it’s going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention?

It’s all about honest it’s all about that consultation it’s all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

So my question is Can you be honest does any of this apply to you!

We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices, we have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference!

DO YOU!

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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