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Low lights and multi tonal shades


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

Low light colour: A technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades with going unduly light:

How can one create these looks?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look. It’s back to that need for in depth consultation both parties if using a professional stylist or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project.

Their are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required. The target colour and then tones and shades being used. Again this is so dependant on starting point previous history.

We will use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde.

One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured or never processed hair. The Look tends to to work well on a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair. In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots. For the sake of this lets not go to complicated. We will presume grown out Highlights and low lights.This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is. Creating a lighter brighter look, lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very light or bright bright ends. Known as ‘Ombre technique’

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colourwould be to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer. I might suggest on our pre-coloured hair using three different levels of ‘Bleach decolouriser’ fading them into each other. How? You may ask. Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions

.2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to. You may had have to use a toner to blend.

1*Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

2*Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade desired or required. If going darker you will not require a formulation to lift this will only introduce unwanted warmth! For tone on tone or darker hair deposit only use a Demi formulation.

If wanting to go lighter or richer  or for more vibrant colours some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history and choice of shades and tones. Again play with both colour or shade choice and level of peroxide. Just remember as you increase the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment or warmth you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! Yes a balancing act. Caution: Over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour! 10 volume would bring out the required pigment with out over lifting.

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair. I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice. Here is my choice and suggestion.Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play. How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

My choice would be 8A or 9A Why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time, think through both. Timing, application, formulation. Use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique. You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation. Remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area.Two different formulation on each weave. Have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results.

Mike B2MR

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Natural darker hair to sun kissed natural tones .


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Low Lights: The most natural form of High – Low Lights:

Whilst chatting with the Coffee barrister recently about her hair, she informed me that she does like to lighten her hair but like so many has an issues with lifting beyond that orange brown hue. She is of Asian decent, naturally very dark shade and tone hence the pigment issues. In a perfect world she would like caramel sun kissed shades beige maybe even golden blonde . Is this possible? lets see.

Issues around lifting naturally dark hair shades:

The shade you get when using a lighter shade on darker hair comes from lift generated by the peroxide in the product a apart of the formulation. Very little colour change takes place and in most cases these products do not have enough pigment to control the pigment you have exposed leaving an unwanted tone. This would be the case if we were dealing with Natural or virgin hair of a natural level of 5 and darker.However if the hair has been previously coloured remember you cannot lift colour with colour!

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind. Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine a really natural look. 

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that  give a few shades of lift for a natural look. However on so many occasions.They can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift. Why can this occur?  How does this happen. Poor consultation. Sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural hair level 1,2,3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. {We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

To create Low lights: That sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair. We have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it! During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.  This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come. You cannot lift colour with colour!! So if a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using  a high lift blonde formulation will not work.

                        Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

                            { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

                          High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  DOES THE PRODUCT? Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

                                 Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process} It can cause bleeds due to product expansion. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will  create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light. The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!.

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

                                           Multi shades very natural looking:

Low lights: Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.
                 Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing! Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour! have fun let me know how you get on!

Mike B2MR

 

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Highlights and low lights techniques.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience. and most importantly sharing.

The art of hair colouring is a passion to me. As it is with so many hair colour technician’s. True professionals know that having both the technical and practical skills are key to being successful. Maintaining standards and being current is also key.

I would like to try and cover some points that relate to high lighting, with the various products available to us! when we think High lights we are naturally drawn to thinking Blonde. Consider adding more natural tone sand shades . Mixing low lights and high lights.

It seems as I monitor key search words that the most searched topic’s that come up are always relating to issues around blonde hair highlights bleach and tone.The other key search being searches on all topic’s related to the colour wheel the law’s of colour controlling pigment shade and tone.

I hope that although a topic written on many times this is of help and pushes some buttons regarding process and techniques skill and understanding.

In am fortunate that I get to meet so many salons and so to meet some very talent stylist and colour technicians. I like to watch techniques hang out with technician chatting about techniques and products. Always trying to discover a stylist’s favourite. what is the current chosen product. Many use foils some use easy mesh. I use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding as much as some other products might during the process time and as the product expands. A thing that can happen with foil easy mesh or many of the products available to us, especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced.

One of the biggest thing I observe with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken attention to detail. Those being foil placement formulation application. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired. But we also have to consider the evenness of the weave desired thick fine ect. The cleanness of section.The application of product. oh and formulation.

We have to remember that when taking section we are not working on a flat surface it’s curved so we have to structure out sectioning pattern to accommodate this plain.

However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to! consider all the curves as indicated below.

Lets take some time to reflect and review on sectioning and placement :

My question is on sectioning it’s hard to write about i wish i had a way to draw on screen any way here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections!

when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! so it follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section  the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! if we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curve.

The same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.

The below although for cutting indicates well the sections and angles discussed.

How do we get round this? By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots.

take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you!

Look at those roots that re-growth consider formulation how you are going to run your colour to deal with root issue. Try not to over lap any bleach! decide on your weave pattern. Discuss with your client the look .Highlights thick streaks fine weave high light and low lights final goal!

How do your Highlights stack up ! maybe you should take a little more time with placement sectioning foil placement!

I speak from experience I used to book highlights back to back i could weave full head in just over half an hour.  Would I do this now ‘No’ it’s not the way to work to do things or get the best results.

Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections it all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

If you are interested in the waxed high light papers here is some contact information for you.

Also a useful link for the papers:          http://www.sparenity.com/

Hope these tip helps to some degree. Feed back and comments are always welcome on content and or future topic’s it helps keep things current.

Mike B2MR

 

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Highlights and Blonde hair


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I have chosen this topic because I’m sure that so many have either had experience of it or thought on it as a subject. keeping on top of those roots that regrowth issue. That cycle of the more you colour the more you need to the eventual out come over processing.

Firstly Lets look a Highlights. Originally a form of colour that should work in conjunction with ones natural base shade . As we know over time and because of a love for that Blonde Highlight look. If the process is over done then roots on a regular bases can become an issue. The art is the balance between natural level and desired colour and tone. I would always suggest when doing highlights to try and keep a natural look one should always ask for a balance of high lights and low lights. ie. more than one tone maybe three shade plus natural bases shade.

Sometime when highlights are done on a regular bases or over lapped the look starts to become more solid. If this is the case talk with you stylist start to introduce low lights to regain a balance.

The art is also the sections we take. The weave we make how and where we apply the product. We have to only apply the colour and the formulation where it’s needed. our choice of sectioning is key to getting as close to the roots as possible.We should never forget we are working on a curved surface and have to section accordingly for the best possible results.

This situation sadly arises when a stylist does not advise on over doing or over processing. The nightmare can start when the advise given is. Oh you have so much colour now. Why don’t we just do all over colour!

So many things to consider take into account. So lets take a look at our options.

Firstly when going from Highlights to all over we are going from a weave to solid. So on first application one has to consider. Not just root application, but also the previous re growth so not to have banding issues.not to over lap and to try and mix colours and shades that work and blend in.

Then there is the issue of lifting the roots and them being lifted to much or not enough. either to yellow or to bright then having to tone.

Colour balancing shade and tone. Not just the newly lifted roots. but all of the hair root to tip not easy.

If going to all over colour you will get a solid root starting to show within three weeks. Normally it will need attention every six weeks.

I know some one who just went through this process from Highlights to all over sadly as soon as it was done she hated it .

The stylist Tried to put low lights in these went copper orange, a night mare. How could this happen?

Well when putting low lights back into lifted hair one should use a Demi formulation colour pigment deposit only! Not a permanent formulation with peroxide in it. Lift is not required.

The reason the low lights went orange in the above case was using a permanent formulation on already lifted hair . Not considering the fact that the hair is lacking pigment no lift. The requirement here was natural or neutral shades to be reintroduced. As you can see it is possible to put a mixture of formulations into the hair to get both lift and deposit Blonde with shade and tone.

So unless you feel really comfortable with your stylist both the advise given and skill level be very careful before switching from a highlight technique to all over colour.

MikeB2MR

 

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Blonde hair colour reviews 2011


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR;

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

Blonde hair colour reviews:

As my re-search into hair colour blogs and new places to read reviews find helpful information I’m amazed at the content the misinformation or lack of content.

I really enjoy the sights that allow you post comments and share thoughts ones that don’t edit you response.

Below are some highlights from an article its ok but it rather lacking in informative content it does not give any real information it strokes the surface but then leaves you hanging lets take a look.

I will put the article in question in small bold print!

Good Colours to Dye Blonde hair:

Choosing a flattering shade or colour depends on a couple of different factors ideally you want to choose a shade that is flattering to your skin tone and eye colour. so the colour that is best for one may not be right for another. even if they both have blonde hair, luckily there are ways to decide on a colour to get the best possible results, read on to tips to help you choose.

So far so good sounds interesting agree on considering skin tone eye colour they contribute to how a colour looks.

Warm and cool

Skin tone is probably the single biggest factor in determining what colour will look good on a person  followed by eye colour, to make a decision based on these factors determines whether you are warm or cool type. The majority of natural blondes will be cool with fair skin that burns before tanning, blue or green eyes. if you have olive or golden skin that tans easily and brown eyes , you are warm.

ok this is where i loose the plot it’s way to sweeping my wife has green eyes tans easily and bright red hair! I have dark brown hair green eyes and burn inside on a sunny day! it’s just not helpful it’s to sweeping as a statement it confuses.

Hum so i disagree this infers or suggest what? nothing if you have olive or golden skin forget going blonde! that’s going to upset a few people like half of Hollywood!

Moving on:

For cool Blondes, cool brown to ash tones will typically be the most flattering, coppery should be avoided as they bring out the red in  your skin tone.

For warm blondes look for gold and bronze tones that are darker than your skin. very light shades with brassiness can be harsh on a warm skin tone, avoid black as it will wash you skin tone out!

Model below natural level 7 blue eyes i think the red works?

So if you have Mediterranean skin colour forget blonde. if you suntan! again far to sweeping. and what about all those amazing Italian Blondes!

Shades

A good rule of thumb is to only go two shade lighter or darker than your own skin colour,to dramatic a change can look very awkward if you are not going for a bold statement colour.

For example many people who go from very light colour to Black complain it makes their skin look very purple.this is likely because someone with naturally blonde hair would not have the right skin tone to support such a dark colour.

Well on this bases if you Dark Blonde natural level 6 guess what  if you want to go lighter you will never be blonde  two shades lighter giver you an under tone of orange! now that will not work with your skin colour will it!

Blonde to Black their are people with blue eyes and black hair! again does not go far enough to inform correctly.

Don’t trust the Box:

If your going to do a home dye job,be careful not to completely trust the picture on the box!

{go figure best advise in this article so far} the picture may be misleading if the model has a different

skin, eye, colour underlying hair colour from yours. most boxes have a colour swatch on the top of the box.{always a big help} that you can hold up to your face in front of a mirror also look for key words like Ash and caramel to help you work out if it will compliment your natural warm or cool tones.

You can also do a strand test to see if the colour will work for you before you dye the entire head.

To the right dark blonde natural level 6 blonde it works!

OMG! so you can tell if it’s going to look good by holding the box to your face! Ash Caramel do what? do you know? are you any clearer. [think not}

Ash is designed to neutralize Orange. Caramel is what you might end up with if you neutralize orange!

Ash is not the answer to all you prayers.

My past blogs explain all the issues of tone lift colours  this was an exercise in misinformation.

Knowledge is power  A little knowledge is dangerous get informed.

If in doubt go and have a consultation with a professional stylist to get real colour advise! don’t rely on half cocked info such as this. moving on lets take a look at Blondes

Blonde lets get to the bottom of it!

A good example of why we some times struggle to attain a really nice natural level of Blonde   is there are so many factors that have to be considered, first and foremost hair natural level target level the colour we want colour.

Unfortunately the over the counter box can be misleading in the way they are presented don’t be taken in by packaging or the shade on the box

Some stylist just don’t fully comprehend the lifting process,

Choice of product is key be it professional or a store purchase.

Any natural level darker than level 6 this would be a [Dark Blonde] will not lift to natural Blonde level 9 it will always have a tendency to be to warm orange or yellow.

Why because of the underlying pigment exposed. With a natural level 6 expecting more than a level 9 from a permanent tint colour is still pushing things in most cases you will always be fighting warmth.

Even using a 40 volume peroxide and a high lift Tint level 9 is max although many colour companies claim 4levels of lift with 40 volume that only takes you to a 9 why?

We have to lift through level 6 then level 7 then level 8 finally 9 so it does not go 4 levels so 6 to level 10 is an unlikely target colour

So we have to see through what some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp, to make application easier are all part of this process portraying that oils protect add shine.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

Consider this would a hair colour with a low volume of Ammonia be less harmful than products posted as being herbal natural but don’t fully disclose what they have in the them or where they are sourced from i find the idea of colour that works miracles in 10 minutes should be seriously wondered about!

It is also key to have a consultation with a stylist ask questions  i try on this site to inform both hairdressers  and the client be clear about what you want be clear about your expectation be clear about the upkeep maintenance.

I read so many articles that give misleading information or partial information on colouring,

yes skin type eye colour they are all things to consider in the consultation phase ask for swatches to be held against you face does it bring out your eyes? do the pop! home colour a part from researching the product maybe try on a wig see if it works for you!

We have products claiming to be organic all natural deep condition and so on but really think what we are asking these products to do then decide if they can be really that wonderfully healthy and natural recently i was reading about an all natural product but in its description stated a blend of all natural flowers, vegetables, with added hair dye!da it’s all in the print. get informed. then go Blonde with the knowledge of what your doing or having done.

Thanks Mike

 

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