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Make over Colour correction and re style


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?

Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.

This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.

This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.

Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:

After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.

My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!

Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

It may seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.

The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took.Time and patients. Communication Consultation. That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.

Mike B2MR

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Comments Off on Make over Colour correction and re style

Posted by on October 20, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair cut make over.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

A make over can make such a difference to a client.

It can change how they look and feel about them selves It can change how they act and relate to others.

Our role as a stylist is to offer sound advise offer solutions be creative. But we must always consider what we have to work with and on. 

Remember it’s scissors or a razor it’s not a wand! consider the clients features hair type life style.

Its called the consultation. It’s when we communicate  we listen we use our professional skills.Our time to shine. 



This model young women came into the salon she was very heavily pregnant and stressed. She asked could would any one cut her hair off . Well i stood back and watched as things played out in the salon.

As follows:

The receptionist was concerned that the women was asking for a hair cut on impulse being so pregnant.

She asked members of staff who were free if they would like to cut this ladies hair both looked her up and down and said No saying she should not be doing this she cannot have thought it through.

Well think I make over time seeing this woman who said she had tried 3 other salons and been turned away .A challenge I would be happy to work with you on a new look.When is your baby due it’s late she says I’m having it tomorrow!!! Ok then lets sit you down and have a chat!!

During the consultation it was agreed  that half measures was not going to work.She had long hair but leaving it long enough to tie back would just create more work and be boring. She agreed to trust me.I explained that i don’t use scissors only a razor and off we went.


  

Now remember 39 weeks pregnant  oh and this shot taken with an old polaroid camera that i still keep handy .So lots of hair and a fringe or as bangs to work around. let the make over begin!!


                     Same day same model same clothes! just a touch of lip stick and a new look !! what do you think?



I was very happy with the look! New Mum to be cried she was so happy. Other clients in the salon Gob smacked at the change!! Easy to manage dry with her fingers .She had the baby the next day a little girl.

She called me some weeks later to thank me again for the change and the look. What we do is just so worth while we can change lives.We can make a difference. One client at a time.

Mike B2MR   

 
Comments Off on Hair cut make over.

Posted by on October 15, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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The hair Salon The stylist who to trust.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

change can happen

                                           long drab very unflattering !

In Colour we trust:  In stylist we trust! do we deserve this trust?

Quite a Topic and one that both hairdressers and clients.The public we serve can think on. A topic we can review and chat about!

Above and below before make over below  after shot, Two days later this client had her baby! feeling much better about herself.She had been to three salons wanting a change but none of them wanted to risk upsetting a 9 month pregnant women ! why they did not talk the time to listen!

Quite the change

                                  Razor cut no scissors used!

As a client who has decided to go into a salon for a technical colour  service your hope your thinking has brought you to this place because you have decided to pay for the service knowledge expertise of a professional hairdresser colour expert technician.

You have made this choice rather than enter into the world of home hair colour, 

Quite frankly another area that needs so much more attention spent on it, for the consumer with regard to knowledge and honesty about the products how and why they work, what they do, realistic and true expectations transparency with home hair colour.

As a stylist working in a salon offering your skill and service just by being in the salon environment you are making the statement that you are a true professional educated and knowledgeable, or at least one would hope so.

Bored unprofessional what does this say?

Then my question is why do so many women turn to Home hair colour? lets be honest it’s not all about saving money, and if it is about money then we as stylist have that challenge to prove that you get what you pay for to justify the salon experience.

The Experience starts with image first impressions of both the salon and the staff appearance you only ever get one chance for a first impression. secondly its the time you have for consultation your time to shine sell you self your skill knowledge, listen advise be honest ask question your in control or you should be, by being in control the client should feel comfortable she is in good hands.

Things like this still happen

Easy ha!

Then why so many disillusioned clients why do we still see over processed hair drab dull colours, why so many articles from women unhappy with their hair, why so many reviews written about a bad experience.

That’s not me i hear you say, who does this guy think he is! great that’s the reaction i  want,

But oh so much of the time it’s seems all about the money get them in get them out, under skilled under qualified people colouring hair lacking in knowledge and skill but with a Ego the size of a salon.

Why where does it come from?

Is it something instilled at college at the academy fake it till you make it. an attitude that once you have qualified you have made it you know all their is to know. you can go into a salon or go mobile calling your self a true professional.

When we have some many young people in college doing hairdressing and 14 year old students doing basic hairdressing as part of their school lessons, who decides on standards NVQ what does that mean when so many have it and yet are un-skilled! over half the students in one college i had experience with were wasting their time and that of the tutors, of the 14 year old students it was a way of getting out of other subjects but getting a qualification or accreditation upon leaving school what does this say!

Understanding your colour line:

understand shade, tone, pigment,deposit.

When it comes to professional hair colour salons and stylist it’s a fact that salon change colour lines because the one they have does not work for them. it does not lift, the reds don’t hold, the ash shades to green, the pigment cannot control the lift! sound familiar, then why?

Professional colour companies know that hairdressers salons change colour lines through dissatisfaction this is why they constantly bring out new repackaged lines. there are differences between in quality but with the top names they pretty much work the same way pigments vary but quality and chemistry quite standard so why change?

Here it is!  IT’S EASIER TO BLAME THE PRODUCT THAN ADMIT LACK OF KNOWLEDGE!

As a former educator for a colour company i have seen so many salon owners bow to pressure from staff to change a colour line through dissatisfaction lack of skill and knowledge.

Different formulation different effects.

It is so hard for a manager or owner to suggest the issues lies in the mirror! If we take the time to read the education material in a manual part of a shade chart {yes the black stuff next to the pictures}To go on the education up dates to do in salon training model fun nights to play experiment, get to understand your colour line.

Simple things: this is all true when toning at the basin on pre lightened hair that is still tad yellow using ash toner! then blaming the product because it’s sludge green ha ha you laugh it happens.

natural level 6 Demi application level 6 no lift required

or mixing a colour up but because you have chosen possible to higher volume of peroxide to counter act this you squeeze in a little ash then oh maybe that was to much so in goes some gold! yipee green again! guys this goes on!

So for the client who has been part of one of these salon situations these case of poor quality of work how are they supposed to respond? having wanted that salon experience, having wanted to feel pampered and a million dollars..but having left feeling nothing but resentful of the whole experience!

They want to trust know they are in good hands, as stylist we have to go so much further with the service we offer, but we owe it to our selves and the client to invest in our skill get the knowledge get the education learn our trade.

become experts in every aspect of our field this does not happen over night i don’t think we ever know everything thing but the goal the motivation should be to know as much as possible keep pushing your self to be better and share this this knowledge with Clients and work mates

blondes with multi shades and formulations.

For the client who has had a bad experience i say do not give up on a professional service just research find the good ones do not settle for second best.

Build a relationship built on trust and understanding and honesty about goal and expectations solving problems finding solutions

At the end of the day you should be able to put more trust in the salon the experience than you can that small box on the shelf at the supermarket that covers Grey makes you look younger healthier all in 10 minutes and for under a fiver!!!!!

I have written this to push buttons ask questions get reaction!

here is my web site this also links into my blog comments can be left good or bad.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair cut make over shape form texture


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s:

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products

An account of a real make over

sharing cutting techniques
Discussing shape and form

 

The hair Cut, a hair creation, a style, a look, a fashion setting trend, a statement of individuality.

So if all of these are the case why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone with any thought to some very basic points, or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create!

,

Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don’t do this are we really doing our job to it’s fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

In  need of a make over
ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? we live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

 

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts?

answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few,.

anything is possible
well quite the change

I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

 

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it’s life, guess what it’s raining it’s Grey it’s damp what it’s going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention?

It’s all about honest it’s all about that consultation it’s all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

the rewards of a make over
closer look razor cut make over

So my question is Can you be honest does any of this apply to you!

 

We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices, we have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference!

DO YOU!

These shots are of a young Mum to be, she was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will.

she said really. AS you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

 

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