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Understanding a Ph balance chart:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s   http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

review of  aPh balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart:

When we do any chemical service on the hair be it colour, perming, relaxing, we have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss,

the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour the formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, is key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

 

Three layers of the hair structure.  

 

 

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle the same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products, all serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph the stronger the  product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

it is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention , or retaining moisture after the perming process.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth, I will link this to the Habia site.

want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful MikeB2MR

 

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Keratin based hair relaxing conditioning


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

Keratin the key component if the structure of human hair it gives the hair strength shine along with the 19 Amino found in hair moisture playing a hugely important role in the overall condition along with the Ph .

So lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products:

Ideal for treatment for control and smooth hair:

They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in a effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations.

blown out and ironed.

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons.

Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product and how and why it works explanation of the process.

The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin.

So how do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application.

I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions:

http://www.short-hair-style.com/formaldehydefree-keratin-products-are-carcinogens.html

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

https://mikeb2mr.wordpress.com/2010/08/24/nano-keratin-a-hair-break-through/

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a

Curl interrupted smoothing system.

So how does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde,

The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application

Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5.

This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes

The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray.
The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle?

The keratin is manufactured.

pre any treatment

So my questions yet to be answered
So the Ammonium Bisulphite is the alkaline certainly sounds like it could be a alkaline but if naturally produced  source it may be called natural! used to open the cuticle so to what level of Ph?  Your Keratin what is it’s source given that hydrolised human hair keratin has the smallest molecular weight of all the naturally sourced keratin’s? or is your manufactured ie nano?
Once you add the heat to the Keratin and it hardens giving the hair a shine not unlike a coat of varnish.
Does the colour last longer due to the flat cuticle? when applying colour having already changed the Ph with the Ammonium Bisulphite does this overly effect the fact that most professional colours already have an alkaline in them so to some it might seem we are over processing by opening the cuticle to much given the effects on the Ph of the hair!  Many questions sorry but when educating products or writing about then i like to have as much information as is possible, i used a keratin based  product some 12 years ago so have some understanding of the technology.

In closing

It sounds like a product that works but really has not been around long enough to know what the effects long term are to hair and health or how well it will be received by stylist and the pay client.

New innovative products that can give us tools to improve the daily lives of our clients are always so exciting and bring with them hype expectation motivation these keratin based products are all that new and exciting.
Mike

 

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