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A hair colour disaster and fix.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Here we are looking at a colour correction scenario:

*What is the best way to share with you? To look at real issues!

*How do we put all of this new found information into practice. By solving issues.

*How do we apply this knowledge in a practical sense? Does it really work. By thinking through the issue panning!

By sharing some real life salon colour stories with you.

We can cover many of the issues that you can expect and do come across daily with your clients. [ please note names of clients and stylists changed events situation are based on real events] Permission to publish and relay these cases have been sought and given.

In all my years as an educator I have been fortunate and have had the pleasure to be invited into many salons. These are some cases that arose whilst spending time in any given salon or in my own career as a stylist none are made up. In most cases of salon colour mistakes the error are caused buy the stylist making poor choice for applications.

Lets get on our colour case:

Alison came into the salon. She had long hair mid way down her back. Her goal going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights. She had solid colour built up with a number of applications over number of visits.

Sounds easy Right?

Firstly Alison needed to have a consultation with Paul her stylist. Discuss her goal and optimum colour target. Both need to be honest about past colour history. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour that had been used for previous colours was a rich dark brown around level 4. In this instance Demi colour formulation for tone on tone deposit only! Long term build up would be a issues. This came out in the consultation process.

Lots of pigment would have built up over time and application this needs to be lifted and  underlying pigment exposed. With the build up of darker shade in the mid lengths and ends  the lifting process would take some time. Staring from the ends and working towards the scalp. It was discussed that the root will lift Blonde very quickly. So the approach would be to use a bleach formulation with be applied to the ends and mid section first. The roots would be left until a desired level was attained as they would lift very quickly. The Prolonged use of the dark brown colour over a long term would cause build up of colour mid length’s and ends.

Alison should have been given a strand test. She did ask for strand test Paul her stylist said’  That will not be required [first mistake and short cut] . Is this that hard?  Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured or lifted prior to full head application. It’s lazy .It’s un professional it’s taking short cuts!

This would have required especially as. Bleaching out old pigment and applying the formulation from the ends up through mid length and finally to the root would create colour bars of pigment also taking into consideration the weave of the highlights.Once lifted evenly to a desired workable tone. Apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.

Why so work end sot roots you may ask? The ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. This pigment exposed in the lifting process will tend to be very warm copper or orange. This will need toning to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

After her consultation with Paul. Alison is ready to get her new caramel low lights done

                    pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Above: Is picture of the hair prior to the colouring.

As stated this colour was always done as deposit only. No lift when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide. Any build up of colour is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. Many salons over book they don’t allow the time or put in the effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It’s how it was supposed to look. But it’s the client who has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.

They have trusted us.Sat in the chair patiently.They asked all the right questions. They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

                                     After low lights

Why does this happen? What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think? Why do you think it went wrong! Paul had done the consultation asked all the right questions. But took short cuts starting with refusing the need for a strand test. By not thinking the process through working in from the ends to the mid length finally to the roots. He rushed and failed. He did not allow enough time for the different levels of lift to be addressed.

Remember the request was for low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation .Remember if he had lifted the hair from ends in. Allowing for the fact that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly. All would have been well, time consuming but it’s never race!

Lets review. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job. Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.

The mid lengths did not lift as much as required or expected they formed a colour bar. A very bright copper orange as the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths into the ends lifted such a little that they still look solid and dark very little lift. There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!! use the tools we have consult charts .work within the rules.

The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. Paul let his client down. He let the salon down. He let himself down! Oh how does this look to the staff what message does it send Paul is the owner!!

Can this be fixed: Yes or course it can. As stylist’s when things go wrong we have to drop any attitude and put right a wrong.even more so when it in no way the fault of the client,who now has to return find more time and we have to regain that trust! drop the ego! 

To review:  The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

                               poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided client Alison. But as you can see it really was a poor job. When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job. First though was how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.

My suggestion would be get rid of it ASAP! Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.

How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance. My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation. Once pre filled apply target shade over the top apply liberally leave to process.

Alison waited a week to get back into see Paul. This is not acceptable it should have been corrected on the day. In some cases this may not be possible in this instance it would have been. As mentioned with the issues created a pre-fill to replace the pigment removed would give the hair depth of tone and solves any issues of fading.

Alison asked if it might be a good idea to put some pigment back in the overly blonde roots. { How did she know to ask for this? yes i advised her.} Sadly Paul still in a hurry still taking short cuts indicated this would not be required one application would be enough. Well one would be enough and look fine as she left but long term in the days and weeks ahead? It will fade.Paul applied the 4N Demi formulation directly over the top and the colour was restored to a rich solid all over Chocolate Brown.

However Paul has taken short cuts. This colour will fade he may well lose a client through what lack of service! The colour did start to fade within a week. Sheila went to a different salon Carl lost a good client.

Here is my thinking on the Fix:

In this instance if our goal is  to achieve a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, to prevent fading and give depth of tone. However i will also need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

              look for location of orange section blue green section.

Lets look at the chemistry of a formulation.

4N has a Blue green base.

Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.

So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange

The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green

The out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.

Finally the after shot again provided by Alison I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her at various stages throughout the process in return she allowed me to share the experience.

Out come

The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift. Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it’s a very easy way to repair poor colour issues. As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit. it will last and stay rich and deep and healthy looking. Alison now has a new Stylist and is happy to be a rich dark brunette shade again. Sadly the experience has put her off trying again for a new multi tonal look.lets hope over time her new stylist gains her trust.


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The up/do. Creative, stylish ,elegant, fun.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

The up/do creative fun and can be a challenge for many.

My hope over the next couple of days is to share with you one look start to finish. Then post a few different looks.

The key to getting the look you want is three fold. Firstly consultation with your client.What type of look she is hoping for what is the event ?What is she wearing? Secondly confidence in your ability to deliver said or requested look. Lastly. Vision and technical ability to create something that will not only look good but will last the evening what ever might transpire!!

Just like all other services we offer. We have to work with order and structure. creating shape and final look is still about structure and foundation building and creating a look that will last look elegant and stylish.

Length of hair type of hair should not be an issue if you know what your doing and work with confidence this comes with practice .

As I post shots of this models hair going up you will see even though it’s really long it’s quite easy to manipulate. Being good at back combing really helps and working neatly be organised.

The look we are creating will be very polished and elegant with height at the crown to achieve this i have started with a high partial pong tail and pulled it through a doughnut to give me a solid base and extra height on the crown. Before starting to wrap the hair around the base i back comb it to give volume smoothing it out with a Mason pearson brush.

With so much hair to work with leaving the brush in the fringe area keep it out of the clients face and will create extra bend or wave for me down the road. When working with such long hair work with it don’t fight it.It tells you were it wants to lie just go with it work with it. play with it to see what looks best

This shot show’s how the shape is coming together the height is forming on the crown we are in control of each section as we place it. It’s starting to be fun! Remembering that we are looking to create a shape with height width and texture.but smooth and elegant.Everything in this look revolves around the central pony tail and doughnut.

Here we are the look is staring to come together we have now incorporated the sides  in the look it shows of both the highlights and movement of the look we have set out to create. We still have some work to do on the crown area and some long hair still to hide and work with.

Almost done now as your can see all that long hair has been used to create a pleated look giving the look lots of dimension and texture .showing off the multi tonal colours. this type of up do will stay up all day and night!

One strand left to play with. We have also added a little with a little blue hair extension just for a little variety.

The last step is to work to put the finishing touches to the look lose any unwanted stray hair’s make sure it tight feels safe and that the client feels confident with the look and how it feels. Does it feel safe and secure and is it comfortable ! Yes no pins sticking in her head!

 Final look soft elegant  and yet think very sophisticated.  total time to do this about 45mins start to finish

not pre curling not hot rollers just blow dried the day before. Back combing and hair spray

I hope that it will encourage you  as a stylist to have some fun and enjoy putting hair up.I hope it helps show you a method and encourages you to play. As a client if you looking for idea’s work with your stylist. Take in pictures of looks like like but be prepared to listen to advise.On how it might look and if your hair is suitable. will it stand the test of time !!! more looks tomorrow

 

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Make over Colour correction and re style


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                            What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?

Firstly and foremost it has to be a situation with really challenging colour correction.

This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction. What might that be? Over processed Mud coloured hair.

This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong.It is cause when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit,Went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time have it looked after professionally.

Result the Salon took on the job they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair  the result speaks for it self. Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:

After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off.The model agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work  as a starting point to hair recovery.

My challenge was what colour could i get this too!!!

Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from.

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base on does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

It may seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

Above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.

The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took.Time and patients. Communication Consultation. That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.

Mike B2MR

 
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Posted by on October 20, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Wedding day hair consultation, service. Are you up for it?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

 

A place to share thoughts.

As Stylist’s having the honour  to work with a client on her wedding day should be seen as an honour.For it is such a special day in the eyes of any bride to be. But this honour should not be taken lightly or seen a away to make some extra cash!!! Are you good enough are you up for the task and all that can and will face you . Emotion stress family pressures. Creating that perfect look.

As stylist’s we all our basic skill and knowledge we then have the things we love that we excel at could be colouring cutting. How often do we think about our weaknesses? How often do we face  the fact that we need to learn new skill or up date what we have?

Wedding hair has to be of those really skilled in the art of dressing hair! Are you?

 

 

How are you at putting up hair? do you have the skill? The patients. The Creativity?

The skill re leave college and any said academy with are for the most part so basic colouring cutting and Up-do’s a safe set to get you bye but i implore you take the time to hone these skills especially if you intend on promoting your self as a wedding up-do specialist and charging accordingly.

I think that as mentioned so many times the initial honest consultation is key to success honest sharing a vision working out a time table for practice sessions colouring if needed a calender to work with.

Stress to your client that the first session is getting a feel for the hair how it moves lies bends folds, yes it does all this , I firmly believe that hair indicates where it wants to lie how the shape forms all we have to do is watch feel.

 

A wedding a day a celebration possible the one of the biggest days in any Womens life For any couple a huge day life changing a huge commitment the start of a new journey a new chapter.

All this aside for a women it’s so much more it’s the event the ceremony. The reception. It’s fancy dress it’s being the center of attention princess for a day!

Taking the social side and relationship side away for a moment to talk about wedding hair, One can not talk about wedding hair without considering the following. Dress. Makeup Headdress. Theme. Size of event,  Location. Number of guests. Budget. Brides expectations.Oh and HAIR!

Being involved in a wedding is very special it can be stressful for a stylist because of all the stress and expectation around the event, so first question can you cope? Do you like doing wedding hair?

If the answer is no! Take my advise. Don’t get involved it’s not fair , it’s about so much more than a big money day!! It’s emotional, It’s charged with stress. As stylist’s we need to be in control cool calm collected.

 

                                         It’s Wedding day:

A day to celebrate if well planned rehearsed short cuts can lead to nightmares!

This is of course written from a hair point of view but the same can follow through planning of this special day.

Planning for hair starts with knowing the date the time frame having a consultation agree some understanding of a look plan a schedule to work towards make sure that you and your stylist are on the same page you feel confident in what they suggest. [don’t feel bullied]


First of all the colour for the big day if hair colour is part of the look these days normally it is to some degree. During the consultation discuss vision goals expectation, how many times will we have to colour   from this first meeting until the day.

For me High-lights should be done to grow out as naturally as possible tones and shades that work with skin tone eye colour the hair’s natural base shade.

If we are talking colour is it all over solid are we thinking highlights?

To the look

Make sure your stylist likes putting hair up, also get a quote for the big day like all aspects of weddings the price suddenly goes £££££££! I don’t agree with this i think as a stylist it’s part of your journey with your client! hey I’ve given them the up do a wedding gift!

So many stylist resort to hot irons curls and those nasty little white flowers! work with what you have consider will it last all day last through all those pictures. weather is also an unknown!

The way the hair is arranged and done on the day of the wedding is an integral part of the perfect look  Remember that all eyes will be upon the bride from the moment she steps from the wedding car and walk to the aisle towards your groom. So it is important that she looks stunning from top to bottom.

As a hairdresser consider how your clients looks! consider the dress, the neck line a look that compliments and makes her look her best!

 

As stylist we have a huge responsibility here we can make or ruin this day no pressure ha!

So much to consider to help make the bride look and feel her best consider bone structure the dress cut high collar or plunging  in some cases we might even have to advise on a look in a tactful manner if weight is an issue. The only goal is to make the bride look great feel great your the professional  honesty consultation practice all key to success.

 

Same thing applies when choosing a hairstyle for you to wear on your wedding day but with an extra factor to consider. Aside from the shape of your face, your wedding hair style and your hair accessories should also be in harmony with your wedding dress for the perfect bride’s look.   

[a great deal of expectation on you the stylist].

So for me I love putting hair up i also like classic looks that stand the test of times! but it’s not for me to do what i like what I feel comfortable with. It’s for me to listen advise maybe do a few different looks until we start to get an idea of the final look, many Brides start off with a preconceived idea born from dreams and in some cases collected from magazines we have to work through this. Practice sessions, honest communication, consultations, commitment to working together to an agreed time frame.

 


We can also advise the bride to be. On places to research looks, there are a lot of hair style pictures which they can collect and review from fashion magazines and online sites.

Online sites may be more preferable as they have special features that allow you to determine your facial  shape. You can choose from model matching your personal facial features and skin tone or you can also upload your photo and try out different hair styles. This may sound extreme but in the end it all helps!

For long hair and a dress with elaborate back details, i would normally try and advise an up do for  it last longer and stands the test of time but again we have to consider the the brides wishes the hair type as well,

The hair may be curled for a more romantic bohemian medieval  look but i would not suggest this on fine hair that takes hours to curl and may well not last the day. It may also be braided with flowers then swept off the neck to be able to move freely and look fresh up to the reception.

For short hair, tiaras would be a wonderful accessory to wear in place of a veil. Other alternative accessories to make short hair stunning for the wedding are dazzling hair pins or a flower clipped to the hair or stuck behind the ear.

So in this instance having decided on an up do, things to practice and consider

First stage build a base so it’s firm and feels comfortable at this point note how the colour works with the look if hair, having prepared the hair we now have to play at this point there is no right or wrong it’s getting a feel for the hair playing finding that look!

 

First attempt above ok but not quite the look I am hoping for a little saggy a little tight but loving the high-lights and low lights they work very well together blending really well with the un-coloured area underneath, after a third attempt you should start to get the look soft yet sleek with lots texture shows off the colour and it works with the client our Bride to be! so it’s a process your involved in it’s not just taking a booking for a wedding without being involved. it not fair to you or the Bride.

 

So finally how does our bride to be feel this is key are they HAPPY? if not take it down start again or agree to call it a day but book another session.

 

As a stylist or client if you cannot get the look you want or don’t fell comfortable find some one else or try another stylist.

As a stylist or client if the chemistry is not their pull out Wedding days are full of stress do you like that can you cope with it!

As a foot note the above has been fun to put down as an exercise but think on this.

 

 

How much more pressure can be on any stylist? Well consider being father to the bride and Stylist and my ex-wife is attending! No pressure!!!!!

We did find the final look but i will post that in the coming days as this is wedding hair week.

After all that practice take it down relax oh and your left with all that volume! and a smile .

One hopes it’s a good day all round.

Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on Wedding day hair consultation, service. Are you up for it?

Posted by on September 29, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Home hair colour Pitfalls:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS,

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject, In my search to find information I came across this wonderful sight a place for alternative hair colour  people go to with real hair issues.

A place people offer advise and share their experiences with each other shame stylist don’t do this! it’s very cool.

http://www.hairdyeforum.com/

I am going to try and cover some subjects to try and save some hair nightmares, I do understand how things happen and why !

Misuse of products, miss information, inpatients, and not following guide lines and instructions,

Another sight to see some funky coloured heads           http://haircrazy.info/gallery/red/

I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching, Lift  deposit toning, damage , condition  but have decided that it is such a huge topic so that i think to cover all issues in depth so will post more individual topics over the coming days.

In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

A list of topic’s that may well be added to:

Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe:

Bleaching Root application.



I also think at this juncture that it is worth mentioning that not all home colours be the permanent Tints or fun fashion shade are what they proclaim to be it’s buyer beware if wondering should i colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test .

Take a strand test and drop it into a glass of water if it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. if you have coloured it or bleached it a great deal if slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted!

Many Products claiming no Ammonia have something else doing the same Job MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives, other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.

They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts, this is why it’s essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat.

In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

I hope that this introduction page is helpful and that the topic’s i cover do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair.

Although i can offer sound advise every head every history of an given head is different so information and advise offered although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

if in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/



On a bad day you could end up like this! anyone guess how this

was done or why?

I would love to hear comments feed back .

Enjoy anything really is possible if you put your mind to it take your time and be patient!!

Mike B2MR

 

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Wedding day Practice session:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

For the last year i have been working with my daughter to find and create that perfect wedding hair Up-do that special look making her feel princess for a day.

I have tried to keep a record of this journey we tool together as a stylist in some ways more pressure in others a very special unique position to be in, my parting gift to my daughter an Up do forged from love a look worthy of our journey up to this special moment,

As i write this i also reflect on what an important day this truly is and we as stylist should not take this

The out takes session one we decided to busy and disjointed and no braids! moving on:

we decided both these looks we liked the swirl  but not big enough and just a little to much going on again we agreed on this whilst look at digital shots on the comp of each look. takes time but well worth it

below the last look we dismissed as being a little to much like a french pleat! as classic but not for this look.

As you can see quite a few looks explored patients on both sides but well worth it all the looks show off colour texture but just missed a little something  until one just pooed out! It is my opinion that some of these up do looks area mess but i had to post them to show the journey one take sand how this evolves it does not just happen. even top stylist practice a look so it looks easy and it works!

these last two were the end of day one and i think show quite the journey of how things evolve shapes form ideas come to life

these last two shots show off a look but they also show texture and show off the highlights oh and the beauty of the bride to be. Whilst doing this exercise we had i deal i would not see the dress but would find a look that would do it justice.

We discovered on the day the the pleat and the texture created  worked the same way as the fabric of the back of the dress

Master the art be creative have confidence enjoy creating remember it’s not always about money the rewards can be so much greater!! Mike B2MR

 

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Wedding day hair, Service, creativity.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR,

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

As I try and decide if I’m brave enough to see if i have enough content for a book of life wisdom and experience,

I have decided to take some time to share technique and experience but whilst reflecting on true salon experience with real clients and situations; I will however change the names:

This is inspired by karen Lynch after such an interesting conversation on so many idea’s thought’s and reflections on our industry.

If this format works I may well go back to the very start of my career but for now lets talk weddings and up do’s.

With My daughter’s wedding being a week away she arrives to day for that final colour touch up that final up do run through, as a stylist and as her dad no pressure right! think again this is one up do more than any that has to look amazing not that they all don’t.

But i digress this will take a few blogs and i hope be followed, lets start by going back to the late 70’syes it’s been that long, My initial training was although an apprenticeship not good my training for cutting was excellent taught by some of the very best even by today’s standards, having finished my training thinking the sky is the limit knowing everything and yet knowing nothing, i was on the salon floor doing clients i was always good with consultation i a people person that came easy so did building up a clientele but on reflection at the time i was so un-skilled. we will re visit this!!

Wedding hair as you build up a clientele you tend to attract clients a following of in my case young women around my age you get to know them they recommend you so it start’s, the big problem is we are all growing up maturing at the same time, so it follows wedding season that taking a relationship to the next level all happens at once,

I had never been taught showed how to put hair up backcombing went out the window as i started Vidal changed all that!

So here i was being asked to do weddings plans dates being set for me this was days out of London huge events big on the social calender Marquee in the garden jobs, I was clue less i was scared why?I had no idea how to play with and enjoy putting hair up i did not have the skill,

To get around this i would suggest hair to have any look but up, i would say oh i will be on holiday then, Fear fear fear! I could blame poor training to some degree true but the bottom line is i owed it to my self and my clients to get over this.

It started with asking for help some basic up do techniques at the time that roll was always a life saver

soft sweeping role bung on some flower’s or a tiara off you go, this worked but was very unsatisfying for me, As you might have guest it’s all about me!

In the Following blogs i am going to talk describe specific weddings and looks share a story of an event, but for now although i muddled through may weddings some of them huge events i never really enjoyed any of them  that’s sad and i feel i missed out on a great deal i had some amazing clients who shared their day with me invited me to the wedding brought me right into the center of the day the event and yet i blew it through fear. I missed out and although they don’t know it i let them down because i did not gain the knowledge and the training the tools i needed. don’t be like that don’t miss out on or diminish an experience because your own ego holds you back,

For me now i have taught up do classes put hair up for hundreds on stage head set huge screen i have encouraged, how through learning admitting to my self that i need to do this to face this to get over this,

How can one not hair is a medium to play with to explore shape and texture like cutting their is no right and wrong just shape and form that works get over this get over your self and it’s half the battle won.

So now as i write this i reflect on the main stage shows the standing ovation’s the looks created the questions asked about technique at an Avantgarde show and wonder why did i not get this earlier!

maybe i was i unwilling unable not ready.

Embrace the up do it’s an art it’s takes you to creative levels it’s another way to express you skill and talent,

Next blog will tell our first up do story, Mike B2MR

 

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