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If your hair colour goes badly wrong. what to do!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges between myself and a client.

This is such a contentious subject:

A never ending issue for so many women. I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange.

Below have posted the question raised in dark solid type. and have tried to respond to the question raised this.This was a real situation and exchange of idea’s with someone who contacted me on line via this blog.

                         lets look at this issue together

Text from Initial article:

Question:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your! Was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair. Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it or some other Alkaline. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia.It just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way. If you are mixing two products together  then the chances are you are still using peroxide in your formulation and so permanent hair colour.

                                        over processed dull lifeless

Client Reply:

Wow! Thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

My Reply:

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth into account,the question becomes? Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.

Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue that being. Roots or re growth that have never been previously coloured and mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. In this case different formulation will be required,one to lift and deposit on the root area. One just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade Isuggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

The above shot is a god example of going lighter over time from an all over permanent solid shade. It also allows for the issue of Grey hair,In this instance by introducing over time different shades of lowlights with out the need for bleaching.We are embracing the grey issue working with it.Over time the hair is in better condition and the time between needing colour service is extended.

You might think odd why would you want to see a client less often? Good point but because she is so happy this client recommends more of her friends they keep my busy .In real terms i am growing my business by being honest and giving great service.

Try it It’s not always about the 4 or 6 week ticket it is about re booking in a time frame that works for each and every client be it 4 weeks 6 weeks or 8weeks!

                                    Healthy natural looking colour

The above model was having highlights every 5 to 6 weeks .It was to Blonde damaged over processed.Now with low lighting and highlighting she has her roots done only on the top a big T section every 3 months the rest is natural .She is very happy!

hope this helps you.

Mike B2MR

Thanks 🙂
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

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Darker side of life! trying a darker hair colour or shade!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 LIGHT TO DARK shades and tone:

Can you go from blonde hair to Darker shade. Can it look good? Will it work ? yes yes yes! In many cases it can make your own natural colouring come alive. Your eyes look brighter . Your skin tone takes on a whole new look. When you want to go lighter with a little patients  it can be done without to much effort.

[See posting on going from solid to lighter tones].

If you’re are  like so many. Not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Another key advantage is how easy it is to lift out when you want to start going lighter or brighter.

                          The big question Should I go Darker?  Why not ?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour. Even with multiple shades as below if you wanted to go darker could you? The answer is yes .A Demi formulation of a level 5 or darker would give you depth and tone but with multiple shades due to the starting tonal base shades.

                                    Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:  Transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker do some research maybe try on a darker wig hold some darker shades up to your face see how it works with eye colour and skin tone.

In many case a Demi colour application will last longer than a permanent hair colour due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to. the above is a perfect example of grown out lighter shade that could so easily go darker with a Demi application.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. As soon as you use a formulation to lift the hair warmth will come into play!!!

The above looks in some ways far to dark and solid but when going from light to dark the hair will tend to take the colour as a very solid look but within a couple of washes tone will start to shine through! remember hair that has been previously pre lightened will not hold colour as much as no lifted hair!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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Natural Herbal organic hair colour.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do however try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products I come across. Or that seem new and exciting

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

If MEA has bee around for so long how is it such a new innovation? Is it just a re hash of another type of alkaline? We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many ‘Ammonia free products’ without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don’t we question why do we trust!

This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional? just because it’s say’s ‘Herbal’ and has a natural plant extract photo on the box does not make it healthier than anything else.

Lets be clear it’s marketing.It’s selling you what you are being conditioned to ask for!

The question I ask is simple. Is it really a new innovation? Is it really any less harmful than Ammonia? Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  Also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ?

Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive.

This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released. 

(Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.}

Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

There is no proof that Ammonia washes off the hair fully or that MEA is any better or indeed washes out it is suggested the Silicon oil does remain in the hair ! whats in that oil?

Breakage, fading, damaged, over-processed hair will occur when using chemical based color. Try Organic Color Systems for the best, most gentle, natural, organic results. Good luck! Don’t give up on your desired hair color, just take a different approach.

In many cases Ammonia becomes more damaging depending on its strength higher levels certainly open the cuticle more! but in low levels and controlled  0.4% 1.2% found in some professional colour is in my opinion safe to use and can be trusted to attain good colour results.

Below is a link and article found posted through twitter both very interesting i think this company really is trying to make a difference have some integrity:

                                                 See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no replyI have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?


Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.quote:

Mike, I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

Months later product never arrived so cannot give any up date.I still await an organic hair colour company to provide some product to try and education material that is open and transparent in both chemistry use and expectation/final results.

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour. Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

An example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends! The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Now, just a few months later, Some salons are coming to a rude awakening – that the chosen product line is not ammonia freeand is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.

What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredient labels of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for I certain post shampoo recommended for post-color shampoo with  “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label. always read directions always read formulation never trust the sales rep! do your own research ask questions? Keep asking question until you get the right answers.

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

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Permanent hair colour The N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some colourist say “rules are made for breaking” Hum! Ego! is alive and well.

I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !

  

When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Be it to refer to or in some cases,do we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! Do we understand what we can learn how to use the chart correctly? Have we read the technical manual with it? Do we understand it !

[ you may be smiling it happens]

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. over use of the n series in a colour formulation can and will drab out your colour! Under use in a formulation can result in hot roots!

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.

Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. Back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it? The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. what do we need?

Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural.  We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.

Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose how do i control it! it’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!

Please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you.

A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control

the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!

have fun. But be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour wrong choice bad result !


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges.

It’s a never ending issue for so many women. What hair colour to have.Then should you pay for a salon professional or go cheap do it at home? . I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange. There is so much to colouring ones hair stylists and technicians train for years and never stop learning as new products come to market.

How much harder for the consumer who wants to for many reasons go the do it at home route! I was in the local chemist /drug store the other day.I watched a young lady looking at row of colour she picked up a box held it up to her head and decided that would do!!! walked away box in hand how she possible know they out come of her choice!!

                                          let’s talk colour

Below is the question that arose from a topic i posted and my reply this is typical of so many issues it’s why i put so much into putting useful material together.

Text from Initial article:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair, Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way If two products mixed together still using peroxide so permanent.

                                               over processed dull lifeless

Reply:

Wow, thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth in to account. Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue. Roots that have never been coloured mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. So different formulation required,on eto lift and depsoit one just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade  suggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

every thing is possible if in doubt seek professional help even if it’s only a consultation to best find out your options!

                                              Healthy natural looking colour

hope this helps you. both the client consumer and also the stylists to think and understand the issues and what motivates someone to have to resort to none professional colour? For the stylist the challenge is to win the client back for the client it’s to have an open mind .Remember you get what you pay for!!! in both hair colour and in life!

Mike B2MR

Thanks 🙂
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/

 

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Semi permanent hair colour. or ?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Semi Permanent Hair Colour:

Mousse, gels. Demi, permanent,

When we think about semi permanent colour we naturally assume slow wash out or fade maybe 6 to 8 washes up to 6 weeks.

In reality we have to consider so many things be it in the salon or at home? What we expect from this colour .What is my hair condition is it advisable?

Are we going tone on tone? Are we  considering putting a darker shade than our natural level not a great deal is achieved putting lighter over darker!

If putting a cool Red {blue red} over say Blonde as it fades a pinkish, purple, hue could be left. bright true Red could fade leaving {red orange} hue.

The porosity of your own hair plays a part in how these colours may deposit. How long they last and how they fade. As well as the chemical make up of the product.

Buyer beware!

A product that is promoted as semi permanent can still have ingredients in the formulation to open the cuticle and help with the deposit of the said colour.

In some cases they can leave behind trace chemical residue the same can be so of the mousse colour refreshing products Reds. Blondes.  They can leave behind trace elements that build up and can effect professional colour applications.

In some cases they can effect the deposit of professional colour creating banding issues or poor deposit. see article on shampoo with colour pigments added.

So as stylists as always consultation is key:

How many of you have cried their eyes out! after a colour has gone wrong? Been close to shaving your head after unfortunate choice of hair colour? Hands up! Yes ? With hair the colour of scrambled eggs…Dying your hair is not as easy as the adverts make it out to be.  I am not talking about the technique! Just the many things to take into account when considering hair colour both product and desired effect! 

It’s product choice.  It’s hair condition. It’s history of the hair previous colour. It’s application. It’s formulation. It’s timing. Oh did i mention skill and knowledge training?

So the question arises:

I have coloured my hair it’s the wrong shade what can i do?

Was it one tube or bottle or a mix pack?

When you applied the color did you mix 2 things together?  Was it a twist the top asking that you shake 2 suspended liquids together or were you able to apply it straight from the bottle with out mixing anything?

If you mixed 2 things you used a long lasting semi permanent, or what the pro’s call a Demi permanent. They usually contain a very low volume of peroxide and little or no ammonia, they use a different chemical to cause the oxidation instead of ammonia. such a detergent,  {in the form alkaline solution} some have a grain alcohol derivative in them maybe even metallic salts!

If it came straight from the bottle to your hair it was a direct dye or preformed dye molecule in an alkaline solution. The alkaline liquid causes the hair shaft to swell so that the large molecules of color will penetrate slightly into the cortex sticking to the cuticle. This is the principle that the washes out in 15 – 20 shampoos works, the cuticle can’t lie completely flat again because the colored molecules are in the way so each time we shampoo or wet our hair the cuticle raises or swells slightly and the rubbing action of our hands while we lather pulls a few of them off eventually we have none left and our hair is back to nearly its original state.

Having said this continued use or applying to damaged hair you can and will get build up! porosity of hair it’s natural moisture level it’s Ph can be compromised.

DEMI PERMANENT COLOUR:

Two products mixed together much deeper deposit!

Demi  permanent colours use either low levels of ammonia or MEA {methylethylalamine}  in place of the ammonia, to oxidize  the colour molecule low level of  hydrogen peroxide less than 5vol this cause the indirect dye molecules to mature and develop into desired color. While this is considered Demi permanent because it does not lighten natural pigment with continued use it will slowly lighten the hairs natural level so could create regrowth issues and indeed over time fading issues!

The key here is not to over use and always assess the hair before any application:

                                Demi colour rich brown tone on tone deposit

The above model is a rich Brown tone on tone colour with a short textured razor cut.

Final option the one that covers fully but can create the most issues of effecting condition, deposit, banding, health and shine.

Permanent colour:

Normally mixing from a tube but in some form liquid or gel, mixing colour pigment with a peroxide mix this is a process of lift and deposit. The colour may have ammonia or be advertised as being ammonia free. MEA grain alcohol derivative in all cases the action is to change the ph of the hair open the cuticle, These products have hydrogen peroxide in them this serves to purposes it lifts your natural hair level , it also reacts with the colour molecule to help it mature or to develop it.

This is a process of lift and deposit and is permanent, many issues can arise in this choice of product from over processing to poor deposit to not attaining the correct or desired colour.

It is my personal opinion that any one want permanent colour should at least seek professional advise before embarking on this journey!

Finally a home colour correction tool:

Whilst doing research On line I came across a colour remover Product for home use not a thing I would normally promote. sold in most branches of Boot’s chemist B4 Colour remover.

The key to using any product is to follow the instruction to the latter.  Don’t take short cuts make sure you allow enough time to do this process correctly. This colour removing product is everything it claims to be I was very impressed. But remember it only removes artificial pigment if you have coloured your hair a number of times do not expect your natural colour to appear. If you have over time lifted your natural level with each colour application using permanent colour.you may be able to remove the unwanted pigment but your hair’s natural level will be lighter and in some cases very light if hair has been coloured over a long period. Remember none of these products  are a miracle quick fix. So do your re search become informed if in doubt have a professional consultation.

So before using or applying think about your choices and options: Then make a decision and live with the consequences. good luck hope this has been helpful.

MikeB2MR

 

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Highlights or all over colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

regular postings of fresh new topic’slets talk colour http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

I have chosen this topic because I’m sure that so many have either had experience of it or thought on it as a subject.

Firstly Lets look a Highlights.Originally a form of colour that should work in conjunction with ones natural base shade . As we know over time and because of a love for that Blonde Highlight look. If the process is over done then roots on a regular bases can become an issue. The art is the balance between natural level and desired colour and tone. I would always suggest when doing highlights to try and keep a natural look one should always ask for a balance of high lights and low lights. ie more than one tone maybe three shade plus natural bases shade.

 

Sometime when highlights are done on a regular bases or over lapped the look starts to become more solid. If this is the case talk with you stylist start to introduce low lights to regain a balance.

This situation sadly arises when a stylist does not advise on over doing or over processing. The nightmare can start when the advise given is. Oh you have so much colour now. Why don’t we just do all over colour!

So many things to consider take into account. So lets take a look at our options.

Firstly when going from Highlights to all over we are going from a weave to solid. So on first application one has to consider. Not just root application, but also the previous re growth so not to have banding issues.

Highlights or all over colour

Then there is the issue of lifting the roots and them being lifted to much or not enough. either to yellow or to bright then having to tone.

Colour balance shade and tone. Not just the newly lifted roots. But all of the hair root to tip not easy.

If going to all over colour you will get a solid root staring to show within three weeks. Normally it will need attention every six weeks.

I know some one who just went through this process from Highlights to all over sadly as soon as it was done she hated it .

The stylist Tried to put low lights in these went copper orange, a night mare. How could this happen?

Well when putting low lights back into lifted hair one should use a Demi formulation colour pigment deposit only! Not a permanent formulation with peroxide in it. Lift is not required.

The reason the low lights went orange in the above case was using a permanent formulation on already lifted hair . Not considering the fact that the hair is lacking pigment no lift. The requirement here was natural or neutral shades to be reintroduced.

So unless you feel really comfortable with your stylist both the advise given and skill level be very careful before switching from a highlight technique to all over colour.

MikeB2MR

 

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