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A hair colour disaster and fix.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Here we are looking at a colour correction scenario:

*What is the best way to share with you? To look at real issues!

*How do we put all of this new found information into practice. By solving issues.

*How do we apply this knowledge in a practical sense? Does it really work. By thinking through the issue panning!

By sharing some real life salon colour stories with you.

We can cover many of the issues that you can expect and do come across daily with your clients. [ please note names of clients and stylists changed events situation are based on real events] Permission to publish and relay these cases have been sought and given.

In all my years as an educator I have been fortunate and have had the pleasure to be invited into many salons. These are some cases that arose whilst spending time in any given salon or in my own career as a stylist none are made up. In most cases of salon colour mistakes the error are caused buy the stylist making poor choice for applications.

Lets get on our colour case:

Alison came into the salon. She had long hair mid way down her back. Her goal going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights. She had solid colour built up with a number of applications over number of visits.

Sounds easy Right?

Firstly Alison needed to have a consultation with Paul her stylist. Discuss her goal and optimum colour target. Both need to be honest about past colour history. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour that had been used for previous colours was a rich dark brown around level 4. In this instance Demi colour formulation for tone on tone deposit only! Long term build up would be a issues. This came out in the consultation process.

Lots of pigment would have built up over time and application this needs to be lifted and  underlying pigment exposed. With the build up of darker shade in the mid lengths and ends  the lifting process would take some time. Staring from the ends and working towards the scalp. It was discussed that the root will lift Blonde very quickly. So the approach would be to use a bleach formulation with be applied to the ends and mid section first. The roots would be left until a desired level was attained as they would lift very quickly. The Prolonged use of the dark brown colour over a long term would cause build up of colour mid length’s and ends.

Alison should have been given a strand test. She did ask for strand test Paul her stylist said’  That will not be required [first mistake and short cut] . Is this that hard?  Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured or lifted prior to full head application. It’s lazy .It’s un professional it’s taking short cuts!

This would have required especially as. Bleaching out old pigment and applying the formulation from the ends up through mid length and finally to the root would create colour bars of pigment also taking into consideration the weave of the highlights.Once lifted evenly to a desired workable tone. Apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.

Why so work end sot roots you may ask? The ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. This pigment exposed in the lifting process will tend to be very warm copper or orange. This will need toning to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

After her consultation with Paul. Alison is ready to get her new caramel low lights done

                    pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Above: Is picture of the hair prior to the colouring.

As stated this colour was always done as deposit only. No lift when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide. Any build up of colour is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. Many salons over book they don’t allow the time or put in the effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It’s how it was supposed to look. But it’s the client who has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.

They have trusted us.Sat in the chair patiently.They asked all the right questions. They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

                                     After low lights

Why does this happen? What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think? Why do you think it went wrong! Paul had done the consultation asked all the right questions. But took short cuts starting with refusing the need for a strand test. By not thinking the process through working in from the ends to the mid length finally to the roots. He rushed and failed. He did not allow enough time for the different levels of lift to be addressed.

Remember the request was for low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation .Remember if he had lifted the hair from ends in. Allowing for the fact that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly. All would have been well, time consuming but it’s never race!

Lets review. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job. Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.

The mid lengths did not lift as much as required or expected they formed a colour bar. A very bright copper orange as the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths into the ends lifted such a little that they still look solid and dark very little lift. There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!! use the tools we have consult charts .work within the rules.

The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. Paul let his client down. He let the salon down. He let himself down! Oh how does this look to the staff what message does it send Paul is the owner!!

Can this be fixed: Yes or course it can. As stylist’s when things go wrong we have to drop any attitude and put right a wrong.even more so when it in no way the fault of the client,who now has to return find more time and we have to regain that trust! drop the ego! 

To review:  The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

                               poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided client Alison. But as you can see it really was a poor job. When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job. First though was how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.

My suggestion would be get rid of it ASAP! Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.

How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance. My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation. Once pre filled apply target shade over the top apply liberally leave to process.

Alison waited a week to get back into see Paul. This is not acceptable it should have been corrected on the day. In some cases this may not be possible in this instance it would have been. As mentioned with the issues created a pre-fill to replace the pigment removed would give the hair depth of tone and solves any issues of fading.

Alison asked if it might be a good idea to put some pigment back in the overly blonde roots. { How did she know to ask for this? yes i advised her.} Sadly Paul still in a hurry still taking short cuts indicated this would not be required one application would be enough. Well one would be enough and look fine as she left but long term in the days and weeks ahead? It will fade.Paul applied the 4N Demi formulation directly over the top and the colour was restored to a rich solid all over Chocolate Brown.

However Paul has taken short cuts. This colour will fade he may well lose a client through what lack of service! The colour did start to fade within a week. Sheila went to a different salon Carl lost a good client.

Here is my thinking on the Fix:

In this instance if our goal is  to achieve a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, to prevent fading and give depth of tone. However i will also need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

              look for location of orange section blue green section.

Lets look at the chemistry of a formulation.

4N has a Blue green base.

Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.

So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange

The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green

The out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.

Finally the after shot again provided by Alison I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her at various stages throughout the process in return she allowed me to share the experience.

Out come

The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift. Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it’s a very easy way to repair poor colour issues. As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit. it will last and stay rich and deep and healthy looking. Alison now has a new Stylist and is happy to be a rich dark brunette shade again. Sadly the experience has put her off trying again for a new multi tonal look.lets hope over time her new stylist gains her trust.


 

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Natural darker hair to sun kissed natural tones .


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Low Lights: The most natural form of High – Low Lights:

Whilst chatting with the Coffee barrister recently about her hair, she informed me that she does like to lighten her hair but like so many has an issues with lifting beyond that orange brown hue. She is of Asian decent, naturally very dark shade and tone hence the pigment issues. In a perfect world she would like caramel sun kissed shades beige maybe even golden blonde . Is this possible? lets see.

Issues around lifting naturally dark hair shades:

The shade you get when using a lighter shade on darker hair comes from lift generated by the peroxide in the product a apart of the formulation. Very little colour change takes place and in most cases these products do not have enough pigment to control the pigment you have exposed leaving an unwanted tone. This would be the case if we were dealing with Natural or virgin hair of a natural level of 5 and darker.However if the hair has been previously coloured remember you cannot lift colour with colour!

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind. Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine a really natural look. 

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that  give a few shades of lift for a natural look. However on so many occasions.They can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift. Why can this occur?  How does this happen. Poor consultation. Sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural hair level 1,2,3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. {We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

To create Low lights: That sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair. We have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it! During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.  This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come. You cannot lift colour with colour!! So if a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using  a high lift blonde formulation will not work.

                        Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

                            { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

                          High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  DOES THE PRODUCT? Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

                                 Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process} It can cause bleeds due to product expansion. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will  create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light. The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!.

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

                                           Multi shades very natural looking:

Low lights: Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.
                 Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing! Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour! have fun let me know how you get on!

Mike B2MR

 

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Bleaching lift,tone Condition


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

An up dated review on bleaching lifting and tone always worth re visiting and promoting.

                        lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

Hair Lighteners  and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it or lifts it.exposing the pigment left at any given level from degree for red shade through orange into yellow.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:             

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

                             High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  Deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want! if in doubt consult your colour wheel .toning is a re balancing or early corrective colour.

All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange   


To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?

To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

    

                                            http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!

Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon  one cannot be to careful.

Quote from site:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.

Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon

Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

Mike B2MR

 

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The role of Peroxide and developers in HAIR COLOUR.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As a follow on from the previous topic I hope that this topic answers some questions and fils in any gaps about the hair colouring process

The Ph scale tells us the working environment of the hair and helps us determine the ideal product for any given hair type. and allows us to assess the health and condition of the hair.

We also have to know the ph of the products we are using trusting that a product with no ammonia is safe not always the way forward. For all these products are an alkaline and so open the or lift the cuticle to some degree.

Please note:

Take time  to look at the chart and see where the various applications we apply sit . A demi application developer will sit at the same level as hydrogen peroxide on this chart.

Understanding the Ph environment

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle the same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products, all serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph the stronger the  product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

it is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Ok the Colour bus had a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour.

At this juncture it’s time for the bus to stop. So we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

I hope this proves helpful to some .Mike B2MR

 

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Blonde hair bleaching. Lift deposit toning issues.


How to Bleach your hair:

A huge topic with so many different answers options variables.

                                                   how not to bleach!

On the right i found this information for bleaching a head maybe it was put up in jest if that was the case it’s in bad taste and dangerous in content or lack there of.

If not in jest then very dangerous if taken seriously by some one.

So lets look at it in a little depth:

Step one suggested supplies.

I would suggest for an on scalp bleach an oil bleach rather than a powder. {why} powder bleach is harsh on the scalp, has a tendency to dry out creating patchy lift.

Oil bleach mixed with booster will give even lift and will not dry out. { Do not mix with any higher volume of peroxide than 20vol} Skin test and possible stand test is advisable.

*If a virgin application start at the ends  work up to roots, the roots will always lift the fastest.

*If a re-application try not to over lap re-growth application over hair already bleached.

*If trying to lift out one fashion shade to apply another go carefully don’t just slap bleach all over remember this hair has already been lifted so is fragile.

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Got side tracked as is aid huge topic, foil is not advisable for an all over application some schools of thought advocate heat, i do not!

The biggest heat loss in the body is through the head so why not use this if heat is required a plastic bag over the application with suffice. { heat only seems to speed up the process but given that the formulation for lift is dependent on the volume of peroxide chosen why rush it’s a process} 

Lets Touch on second stage mix powder bleach until creamy!

How informative is that!  normally direction and mixing instruction come with products they need to be followed, the goal is to get the correct mix of lifting agent to peroxide.

With powder bleach normally 1-part Bleach decolourizer powder to 2-parts peroxide but follow each products instructions:

No Mention of Gloves!!

                                                                       [as stated on scalp no more than 20 vol}

example of colour home kit  contents on right oil base with boosters:

natural level on lift attained

 I recommended oil bleach this comes with a bottle of liquid+sachets of powder you can mix one or two sachets or boosters with the correct amount of liquid. mix together until a gel then add the recommended    amount of peroxide mix thoroughly.

Another option for removing  some of the fashion shades is Colour remover it works very well but i must state that some of the fashion shades really stain  heavy build up of staining can cause problems.

Although not intended as a fashion colour remover

Colour B4 to remove build up of fashion colours (it isn’t supposed to do this) however I am finding it does.  I think much of this is to do with the whole process more than the hydrosulphite reducing the pigment size (which it cannot do on non oxidative pigment).  By the time they get to the buffer stage it seems to wipe the hair clear of the fashion colour.  Of course some colours can really stain bleached hair, but this seems to happen more with permanent colours rather than temporary ones. 

So colour remover B4 available over the counter at Boots could help with build up of shades and be more gentle or another option for you.

So having removed all this old colour build up and got an even level of lift  without frying the hair to bits it’s time for re application of the new shade: How not to do it on the right any colour running onto the Blonde bleached hair will grab the colour,

Any Multi colour running bleeding into each other will create a mess so be patient  

Oh Finally Gloves at all times!!!!!

                                                   Share your thought with me on this site:

Natural looking Highlights

               

Blonde Management.

Blondes 

Women and indeed some men have a love affair with being Blonde that Healthy, Natural, Sexy.

Trying to recapture that healthy sun kissed look once summer has ended can be difficult some times a disaster but done well following some advise and guide lines can help avoid mistakes.

In these challenging economic times some clients resort to home hair colour always looks so amazing in the commercial the reality is that one has to decide on so many factors when choosing a hair colour and blondes can be very challenging.

The hardest part is choosing the right product and shade so you get the desired lift shade or tone

Working with the  over the counter colour creates many issues for you, the shade fades into either a nice shade of yellow or brassy mess with an orange hue or a nice green tinge

In so many cases Highlights and other techniques start off a boost to enhance a natural look but over time  it’s very easy to get to that point of needing the roots re touched every 6 weeks more so after a summer of colouring and the ravages from the sun for a more natural blonde look it’s time for some low lights the introduction of some tone and texture to those blonde locks!

Lets be honest here! this issue of going overly blonde is caused by both client and stylist the client wants  to be that little bit blonder a pick me up, we as stylist thinks hey fine at the end of the day it’s another colour job bigger bill higher commission trust me i have been their I don’t write this from some place of Judgment just fact and experience.

I am going to post a few different shots in the blog and talk about them for me being successful is of course being busy having good client retention and getting recommendations new clients. over the years i have learned that being honest with clients setting targets goals works really well it earns respect trust and you keep your clients.

It is my firm Belief that good highlights can last 3 months sometimes longer is this bad for business? well  consider this a good job that last longer gets you new recommended clients keeps you busy and yet you are not over colouring its working with the client its working with the base colour think of the head and hair as your canvas remember your the artist.

                                  This is a 4 month re growth.needs some help but still looks sort of ok!

This client when i first started working with her was colouring her hair with Highlights every six weeks when first done looked nice but roots started showing within weeks the highlights were done with just Bleach/ decolourizer yes makes Blonde but the hair was very over processed due to over lap of the coloring had no shine and the condition was poor she also wanted to grow her hair but found she could not!  she enjoyed being blonde in the summer but was open to the suggestion of low lights over the winter months

The not growing is caused by breakage as fast as it grows it breaks off through brushing combing ect. we talked through all the issue i explained options and a goal of going longer in between services made sense why had it never been suggested before? 

So we started on this new journey together our Goal Long healthy natural looking Blonde hair for my part i asked for a 1 year commitment to see this through here are the results. 




For those interested in the colors used! Natural level 6

A 20 volume Bleach roots only no overlap,

8N with 20 Volume roots only [I know the 8n has a Blue Violet under tone so using it on a natural level six will expose orange in the hair but the Blue Violet will Neutralize it to a beige Blonde!]

Finally a level 6RB beige red, roots to ends but with Demi deposit no lift when going tone on tone or darker lift is not required.

As the season change so the degree or ratio of light to dark can change a constantly evolving colour we only ever coloured from just below the crown forward not a full head this creates natural dimension in the under section depth and makes putting hair up much easier know lines from growing out streaks.

As tip the natural shade of the un-coloured under section is a good guide line for the depth of the low lights if for example a level 6 then choose level 6 low lights they can be warm gold cool but they are in the right shade family.

This formulation does have a very low level of peroxide to activate the colour with out lift.

[in this instance a low Ammonia based colour 0.4%.]

The Short hair shot is the same model -client a few years ago so with patients anything is possible.

This big Blonde look as you can see is the same hair as above volume was left over having put the hair up with back combing and hair spray.

No hot irons. rollers. or styling tools! so anything is possible just play!



Two Examples of a short Funky look Blonde with Highlights, over rich base beige base under section demi deposit. [tone on tone] level 6 finished off with a razor cut.using a feather razor and Clawzs:

Two different looks both Blonde but very different!

Blonde hair colour reviews:

As my re-search into hair colour blogs and new places to read reviews find helpful information I’m amazed at the content the misinformation or lack of content.

I really enjoy the sights that allow you post comments and share thoughts ones that don’t edit you response.

 
1 Comment

Posted by on August 13, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hot reds coppers switching hair colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

 

When we think of reds there are just so many shades to choose from. Hot reds Warm controlled reds. Copper shades all the way through to cool blue mauve reds.

The red shades are the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour.

The rule is hardest to get into the hair last to come out!

Choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients hair to give depth and longevity to colour. If we use to higher volume of peroxide we can lift the hair to much lifting out any red or orange and giving us a yellow orange pigment base. Always consider target colour and what will be exposed in the lifting process.

 

Faded dull with Grey root issue

All food for thought? But we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance on mid lengths and ends.

Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.

Hot roots are normally caused by lack of N natural series or a controlling green or blue base if to bright.

 

 

 

 

 

With these examples of red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair.

As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

 

 

Rich vibrant even colour root to end

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages. Work up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone. To go Darker to lighter the key is to use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise.

A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.

 

 

But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

Take into account any issues during the consultation Grey issues can be resolved so you don’t have a thin deposit or  hot roots . Remember Grey issues will require some amount of the N natural series in the root formulation the level of peroxide you choose is the other deciding factor.

The model above to the right  has a Grey issue but as you can see a rich vibrant even colour is possible

 

 

As you can see from these last three shots. new shots same model new  deeper richer red almost brunette shade.  Why? Well as we are dealing with a little more Grey a to vibrant  copper could cause it to  look thin and with a possible bright roots issue.

A razor cut to create texture and movement no scissors used also added more texture with my claw finger razor’s.

 

I hope that is article is helpful and that it creates thought about lift deposit and target colour. Remember consider the issues and the environment you are working on.

Mike B2MR

 

 

 

 

 

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Creating low lights with high lift hair colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

 

Low Lights: The  most natural from of High- Low Lights:

 

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind.

Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine a really natural look.

 

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that  give a few shades of lift for a natural look. However on so many occasions.They can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift. Why can this occur?  How does this happen. Poor consultation. sadly lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

 

A Different approach:

Consider this. A natural hair level 1, 2, 3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair}

 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process.

{We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

 

To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.  This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.

You cannot lift colour with colour!! So if a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using  a high lift blonde formulation will not work.

 

Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

{ some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

 

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

 

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range                    DOES THE PRODUCT

Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

 

 

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process} It can cause bleeds due to product expansion.

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment.

 

Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from

High lift blonde what can we expect?

Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!

 

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base.

Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success.

You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.

Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing!   Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour!

have fun let me know how you get on!

Mike B2MR

 

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