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The colour wheel lift deposit pigment tone,


Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

Having re posted a slightly changed version on bleach lift and tone yesterday I have decided to follow it with on eon the colour wheel lift and deposit for they all work together well. We all need reminder of the importance of understanding and trusting the laws of colour and the colour wheel. Be it for lift and deposit bleaching and or toning.

As a stylist do you  understand the ‘Law of Color’ ?  As they relate to hair colouring?Yes Laws? Oh your one of those! Hands on stylist who are fortunate enough to know everything. who don’t need to know or understand the law’s of colour. Your a free spirited artist!  Your just someone with a huge Ego who muddles along getting bye with hit and miss colouring mishaps! A stylist who when things go wrong blames the product! How and why understanding and indeed trusting the colour wheel is so important to succeed.

Hair color is an art.  it is also a chemistry it’s a process. The natural laws as they relate to hair colour  apply to everybody everywhere. They work off of a Natural scale of hair depth and tone one to ten. The  higher the number lighter the shade or level. Laws are simple they are  beyond one’s control they never require a second guess or questioning. Never the less we still insist on the odd experiment to verify them. When you come to accept the law of  colour cannot be broken then you learn to trust it, you always know the outcome. The laws of hair color  are important and often very neglected. It’s imperative that all professional hair stylists know why we do what we do. Why do you choose the color you do to use on your client?

When you as a stylist take the time to learn the universal laws of hair color. You will be better equipped to work with and advise your client on the best course of action and an ideal formulation for them.

What is colour?

Colour is light and pigment. When we color someone’s hair with the right choice of colour, we can emphasize their skin tone and eye color. When we understand these laws and trust them we can grow and improve. understanding is one thing trust is much more! We will never have to guess the outcome of our  results will always feel in control confident and professional.

Essentials of Color

There are three essential traits of color.  Working from a natural level. The any given natural level will always have a hue: a leaning towards one of the primary colours found in the hair example. red, yellow, blue. The percentage of the hue is called saturation. Gold or copper is a good example of a low percentage (saturation) of red. Tone is the lightness or darkness of a color. For example, Copper is a tone of Red with a percentage of Yellow and indeed in some case a tinge of Blue. Balance always

The Color Wheel

There are three primary colors: Blue, Red, Yellow.

They are called primary because all other colors are made from them. 

The secondary colors:

Blue + Red = Violet, Red + Yellow = Orange,  and Yellow + Blue = Green

Tertiary colors are made by mixing the primary and secondary colors together. There are six possible combination’s. They are yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, and yellow-green.

Two colors are called complimentary colors if when mixed together they produce a neutral color.  They are located opposite from each other on the color wheel. When you mix any color with their complimentary color:

You will produce a neutral or browned-out color. sometimes Mud is created.

A colorist should not only always consult and understand the color wheel.

It is a tool that will be used almost every time you color a client’s hair. It will help you create colors with a better understanding of utilising and neutralising pigment and tone.  contrasting colors are placed directly across from their opposite.  This is very important since it is necessary to know which colors can be used to “neutralise” or “brown-out” undesired tones.

A good example of this and indeed a common issue for stylists is neutralising unwanted orange and yellow tones in the hair. When you know and understand the color wheel and can see that violet is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, you can then choose a violet pigment in order to neutralize the yellow.  Violet being a even mix of red and blue. these will restore balance to unwanted yellow  creating a natural tone. If the unwanted color is orange, you can see that blue is the color to use to neutralize the unwanted tone. Orange being made up or Yellow and Red so blue is required to restore balance.See it;s easy common sense and understanding.

The color wheel is also separated into warm and cool colors. Blue (one of our three primary colors) is the coolest cool color and is also the darkest. It generally lives at a level three, masking out both gold and warm red tones or Hue!  The more blue that is added to your hair color the more it will produce a darker, cooler tone. Red or yellow (our other primary colours) are warm colors. Adding red to your hair color formula will create a warmer tone. Just as blue is the darkest cool toned color, yellow is the lightest warm toned color. Adding yellow to your color formula will always produce a lighter, brighter color. depending on the level you are working at Yellow normally comes out to play between the natural level 7 to 10 any level darker than this the yellow will be over powered by either the Red or Blue Pigment.

This is such a huge topic that one can expand on when introducing the effects of lift from chosen formulation and level strength of hydrogen peroxide or developer. These lifting agents will expose pigment as they lift the hair in the colour process adding warmth from the hair to your formulation.

So again understanding the colour wheel really is key.

Good luck Mike B2MR


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Keratin treatment relaxers and more


Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some of this is a re post on the Keratin topic

I feel that these products have now had a good amount of time and exposure enough time has passed so that salons and stylists have had time to use these products.Clients have had them applied and in many cases loved the effects.

The flip side of this is health warnings. Some negative client reviews. Some misleading manufacturer claim’s.

I have spoken to stylists who think the health warnings are a waste of time for the clients want the products. The stylists like the process and the fee they can charge.

I have spoken with a stylist who spent a week in hospital in an oxygen tent having had breathing issues related to breathing in the toxic fumes created when some products are heated to high levels.

So lets review .

This is a long article so please be patient.

I had the good fortune recently to have a discussion with some one from Nano keratin systems who was kind enough to reply to my E-mail asking question about the product and it’s hair straightening properties.

The new trend name for this process is the Brazilian Blow Dry: I find this a tad generic.

Nano technology has been an engineering break through in the hair industry for a while reducing the molecular size of colour pigment to now reducing the keratin Molecule thus making it possible to perform services without having to overly open the cuticle.

Having a basic understanding of keratin and the role it plays in the hair’s structure proved to be most helpful in understanding the Nano keratin System product.

The Nano keratin system is an innovative development at the forefront of technology that utilizes Nano-molecular keratin. The name Nano keratin means. Nano-molecules of keratin. A substance that successfully repairs the core of damaged hair. The Nano-molecules of Nano keratin penetrate hair follicles and repair each strand. Nano keratin system is a microscopic substance and each Nano-molecule is 1/1000 of 1/1,000,000 the size of an original keratin molecule particles are so minute that millions of them can be gathered onto a pin head!

Minute traces of  product and vapor with extraordinary penetration capabilities enter and completely fill damaged hair with Nano-molecular keratin particles. During the next step those Nano-molecules are locked into the hair as additional vapor is infused, thus creating permanent, non-soluble keratin, just like natural keratin!

Regular conditioners and hair treatments sometimes contain protein molecules, but these are too large to penetrate the core of your hair or to be precise. They naturally over the course of time are rinsed out each time you shampoo.  Anything with a larger molecular weight cannot be readily absorbed through the cuticle in to the hair many products try to attain this by changing the pH of the hair in an effort to open the cuticle more! even keratin derived from natural sources such as animal, vegetable or mineral will only lie on or coat the outer shaft of the hair they are to large to be absorbed.

Professional hair care products have always relied on the process of opening up the hair shaft chemically, facilitating the color or perm process then “neutralizing” or stopping the chemical process thus halting the action.

The chemical process has always had the downside of “blossoming the hair shaft – causing what we see as frizz conditioners smoothing products, and moisturizers help to smooth the cuticle layer, but never fully return it to it’s previous pre-chemical luster.

As the world of professional hair care products evolves, we will see nanotechnology play an ever increasing role. Minimizing chemical damage while maximizing health and shine. feeling healthier and easier to style

The process:

Keratin  is the basis of the innovative hair straightening method called keratin relaxing. This method utilizes keratin. Which penetrates hair follicles and completely coats your hair. Hair stylists perform the process using an innovative hair straightening device. This tool allows the keratin dry it becomes like a film of varnish. It penetrates and coats helps make damaged hair seem repaired. ultimately straightens the hair strand.

In our discussion i equated this process to having a slice of Swiss cheese and spreading cream cheese over the top thus filling all the holes I then equated the heat and flat iron process as smoothing down the cuticle whilst hardening the keratin i presume the dissolving substance to be an agent that also closes the cuticle and restores the ph to the hair?

Once the hair strand is coated with a layer of keratin formulation, a dissolving substance is vaporized through an additional process. At the end of this process a reaction called polymerization occurs, filling the hair fissures and making the hair both durable and flexible. Who is suitable for  it is suggested any one as I understand more I will share and inform you with more.

I really can’t imagine any manufacturer of professional hair care products not embracing this technology in the near future. Molecules that measure a mere billionth of a meter will result in products that are infinitely more capable of doing the job intended.

Nanotechnology will undoubtedly bring better and broader lines. The marketplace will fill every niche we could possibly imagine as the world of professional hair care products moves from the world of pH balanced formulations that we all came to know and love.

Over view

Well we have introduced the keratin products and the technology behind them but now to be fair we must look at how they work the good the bad the pro’s and Con’s oh and some of the health warnings that have been associated with some these product’s the full spectrum.

Keratin the key component if the structure of human hair it gives the hair strength shine along with the 19 Amino found in hair moisture playing a hugely important role in the overall condition along with the Ph .

             So lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products:

Ideal for treatment for control and smooth hair:

They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in a effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations.

                                        blown out and ironed.

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons.

Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product  and how and why it works explanation of the process.

Recently I had the good fortune to exchange some discussion with the help people at Kerapure the provided some very interesting information I will share with you. Whilst i don’t have any financial incentive pushing me to mention products this one did seem to have integrity and honest information disclosing many facts. I will put a link at the end to there web site. 


Some facts: 

How does KERAPURE™ differ from other Brazilian Keratin type Treatments (BKT)? Why do all other BKT contain Formaldehyde or Formaldehyde donors?

In Brazilian Keratin treatments, the formaldehyde is the active ingredient that straightens the hair. Although many Keratin Treatments claim that their products are formaldehyde-free, they actually contain formaldehyde-donor ingredients that when exposed to heat, emit toxic levels of formaldehyde gases. These vapors are not only irritating, but inhalation of these levels of formaldehyde poses a known carcinogenic risk.

Most Brazilian Keratin Treatments contain anywhere from 2% to 12% formaldehyde – and all of these treatments exceed the OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Association) and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) limits for release of formaldehyde vapors by 5 to 10 times the 

The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin.

Charts and tables:

allowable limit.  Health Canada tested multiple hair smoothing products for formaldehyde and published the following results on December 10, 2010:

Brazilian Blowout Smoothing Solution by Brazilian Blowout


Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Teixeira


Advanced Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Teixeira


Chocolate Extreme De-Frizzing Treatment by Marcia Teixeira


Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy Treatment by Copomon (Coppola)


Global Keratin Taming System Strawberry by Global Keratin


Global Keratin Taming System with Juvexin Strawberry Resistant by Global Keratin


Global Keratin Taming System with Juvexin Strawberry Light Wave by Global Keratin


Pro-Collagen RX Keratin Treatment


IStraight Keratin (Advanced Keratin Treatment) by IBS Beauty


Brazilian Thermal Reconstruction by Cadiveu



The following table provides the names of the products and the levels of formaldehyde found in Health Canada’s recent round of testing that concluded in March 2011:

Keratin Complex Express Blowout by Copomon (Coppola)


Brazilian Keratin Treatment (Mint) – Royal Keratin Professional Line by Keratin Connection (This product is also available in Chocolate and Strawberry)


Veloce by La Brasiliana


Zero(Apple) by La Brasiliana (This product is also available in Clear and Mocha)


Moroccan Hair Treatment by Inoar



The following table provides the names of the products which contain unacceptable levels of formaldehyde based on data submitted to Health Canada. Health Canada has not tested these products but based on the information submitted, they are not permitted for sale in Canada.

Original by La Brasiliana (This product is also available in Original Chocolate)
Domani by La Brasiliana
Spruzzi by La Brasiliana
Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Pro Skin Solutions
Marcia Teixeira Chocolate Extreme De-Frizzing Treatment EU by M&M International
Marcia Teixeira Brazilian Keratin Treatment EU by M&M International

Lastly what is Formaldehyde:

What is Formaldehyde? What are the risks?

Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable gas at room temperature. It has a pungent, distinct odor and may cause a burning sensation to the eyes, nose, and lungs at high concentrations. You are exposed to small amounts of formaldehyde in the air. It occurs from both natural and man made sources although combustion is the largest source. There is usually more formaldehyde present indoors than outdoors and is often used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is irritating to tissues when it comes into direct contact with them. Some people are more sensitive to the effects of formaldehyde than others. The most common symptoms include irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, along with increased tearing, which occurs at air concentrations of about 0.4–3 parts per million (ppm). The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) states that formaldehyde is immediately dangerous to life and health at 20 ppm. The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that formaldehyde may reasonably be anticipated to be a human carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen.  Given its known health risks, it is important to limit exposure to formaldehyde especially in high and repeated concentrations.

What are other names for Formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is also known as methanal, methylene oxide, oxymethylene, methylaldehyde, oxomethane, formalin, aldehyde, formic aldehyde, formol, biformyl, glutaraldehyde, ethyl alcohol, methylene glycol, glyoxal



So how do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application.

I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions:

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a

Curl interrupted smoothing system.

So how does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde,  

The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application 

Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5.

This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes

The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray.
The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle?

The keratin is manufactured.  

pre any treatment

So my questions yet to be answered 
So the Ammonium Bisulphite is the alkaline certainly sounds like it could be a alkaline but if naturally produced  source it may be called natural! used to open the cuticle so to what level of Ph?  Your Keratin  what is it’s source given that hydrolised human hair keratin has the smallest molecular weight of all the naturally sourced keratin’s? or is your manufactured ie Nano?
Once you add the heat to the Keratin and it hardens giving the hair a shine not unlike a coat of varnish.
Does the colour last longer due to the flat cuticle? when applying colour having already changed the Ph with the Ammonium Bisulphite does this overly effect the fact that most professional colours already have an alkaline in them so to some it might seem we are over processing by opening the cuticle to much given the effects on the Ph of the hair!  Many questions sorry but when educating products or writing about then i like to have as much information as is possible, i used a keratin based  product some 12 years ago so have some understanding of the technology.

In closing 

It sounds like a product that works but really has not been around long enough to know what the effects long term are to hair and health or how well it will be received by stylist and the pay client. 

New innovative products that can give us tools to improve the daily lives of our clients are always so exciting and bring with them hype expectation motivation these keratin based products are all that new and exciting.

As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light.Mike B2MR

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Posted by on August 17, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair


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