Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR
I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject . Offer some advise and share some experiences gained from so many great years in our industry. It’s very cool.
I will try and cover some subjects from the every day challenges to the creative over the top looks oh and some of the hair nightmares we get to fix and advise on! We all need to do understand how things happen and why !
Misuse of products. Miss information. Inpatients and not following guide lines and instructions. We can all be guilty of these things at some point in our career! I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching. Lift deposit.Toning. Damage. Condition. I have decided that as topic’s they can always be re visited. Reviewed in depth see most recent topic’s on all subjects. In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.
Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.
Metallic salts in hair colour.
Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.
Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.
Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe:
Bleaching Root application.
I also think at this juncture. That it is worth mentioning that. Not all home colours be they permanent tints or fun fashion shade are what they claim to be. It’s buyer beware. If your wondering should I colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test.
Take a strand test. Remove a small amount of your processed hair and drop it into a glass of water. If it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. If you have a history of colouring and bleaching it on a regular bases. It may feel slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted! will not hold colour.
In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair
I hope that this information is helpful and that the topic’s covered do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair. Without knowledge of the products chemistry or formulation the risks of a chemical reaction or poor results or indeed allergic reaction can be a risk.
How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!
lets take a look:
I have written my response in heavy print:
TYPES OF HAIR COLOR
Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.
Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.
Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.
Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.
Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.
Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.
Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent
These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.
A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.
Temporary/ Color Rinse:
Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.
As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues
Levels of Hair Color:
1=Black 2= Dark Brown 3=Dark Brown 4=Brown 5=Medium Brown 6=Light Brown 7=Dark Blonde 8=Light Blonde 9=Very Light Blonde 10=Light Platium Blond:
A standard International colour shade chart:
3Dark Brown 3/0
4 Medium Brown 4/0
5 light Brown 5/0
6 Dark Blonde 6/0
7 Medium Blonde 7/0
8 Light Blonde 8/0
9 Clear Blonde 9/0
10 Extra light Blonde 10/0
COLORED HAIR CARE TIPS
Colored and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.
Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.
Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade.
Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair.
Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.
Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.
Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :
Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.
Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.
Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.
Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style & shape Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!
Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.
Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry
Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.
personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp
Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.
Yippee one to agree with
Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.
Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:
What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material.
please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.
Although I offer sound advise. Every head is different the history on any given head is different so information and advise offered is only guidance. Although I am a qualified professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.
If in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment.
All of the topic’s and articles posted are designed and share knowledge and experience Hoping to inspire and raise standards.
Mike B2MR http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/