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Hair Industry. The salon stylist client.

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR




.                                      Hair colour and the hair Industry.

I thought it might be of interest to post some thoughts on. The hair industry and training in the hope of getting some feed back.

To start a conversation I wonder . How people feel about their salon experience? Also views on store brought over the counter home hair colours and relaxers. With such a wealth of new products hitting the stores constantly. Foam hair colours . Keratin relaxers. How safe are they to use at home ? Do they do the job you want? Are you well informed? if not why not?

It amazes me just how much bad over processed hair wanders the streets. Questions  that come to mind. Did that person pay for that? Did they request it? Did the stylist think that’s acceptable? What was going through the mind of the person, giving that service, creating that look.

In some cases home colour that is so bad, dull colour or hot red roots, muddy brown ends. Grey hair  that has been coloured but is either mauve, bright orange, no depth, no natural base shade.

It goes on. Blondes who try and go dark. After a short time the colour starts to fade out . Dark shades trying to go blonde ending up orange! A never ending list that goes on and on.

Hair that you cannot get a comb through. When wet it appears to feel rough and caustic until you apply handfuls of conditioner. Could this be you?

Have you got good and bad stories to share. It might be time to bring this whole colour business out in the open. Together we can all explore the good. The bad and the ugly side of the hair colour business. Those products that promise the earth but never come up to expectation.

Some of the questions that come up oh so often with hair colour are:

The market for hair colour is huge. Ask yourself this question.

Why would the formula for your roots or new growth. Be the same as hair that has been colouered before?  Or a Grey formula being used on none Grey hair?  it happens all the time.

the TV the  Magazine adverts all suggest it’s fine apply all over switch colour with ease! Not the case.

What good does avocado oil? Fruit of the loom leang leang oil do for your hair? Does it really help with colour retention? The answer is No.

You are just being sold the idea of natural and healthy. Why is herbal natural colour so much better than one with Ammonia?  One being sold with all natural MEA  but do you know what MEA is? what it does? How it works? Your thoughts.

Questions to think about. Why does my hair fade to a dull orange brown colour? The mid length and ends don’t hold the colour? Why can’t you get the shade of blonde you want. It’s always to yellow sometimes Orange just never right.


Again I post these as questions looking for feed back. I would be happy to share. Thoughts and views on these issues, or any other hair related topic’s.

One has to wonder these days. How many salon’s and schools educate these issues in enough depth the standards being taught vary so much. I have some really interesting conversation with passionate focused motivated  school and academy owners sadly the standard of commitment can vary from college to college.

Consider the standard of what is being taught. The amount of real education being given both hands on practical and theory. The length of time the training period is for and the standard achieved the qualification gained. student have to leave training fully equipped to face the real world converse in every aspect of the industry .

Remember this students. Look into the fee being charged, against the qualification being given.

How qualified and current are the teachers!! how up to date is the collages.  Meet the teachers get a feel for creativity make sure there is a real passion to educate and share.

I think with so many young people looking into the exciting world of the hair industry. Honesty about the industry. Future earning potential. Success  through hard work and commitment should be discussed.

Targets should be made. Commitment to on going education throughout one’s career should be considered.

Many salon’s and schools could consider. The whole topic of. Building up a solid client base. Client retention. Service and consultation skills.


This is a huge topic and one that really needs to be addressed. Many salon’s and indeed salon owners never take the time to be honest about. There policy’s regarding all aspects of caring for clients.

It goes far beyond just doing hair. At the end of the day. Hairdressing is a service industry and if you don’t like people, giving service. Then you might want to consider if hairdressing is for you.

Consider this.

Knowledge is power, honesty is power, great service is power, all these are key to success.

Hair cutting and Styling.

We teach young stylist to make, clean sections, lift these section up and cut a clean line, re check make sure it’s clean an even. In many cases we teach them. To start by taking a clean section from the crown! What ever happened to build up a shape having a foundation? Understand weight distribution, angles of sections. How will the hair fall. What weigh and shape might it create.


We see so many short cut with. Clean straight lines along the hair line, it’s been cut or shaved to look clean and tidy. In reality the hair line is not straight, so it will not lye in a straight line, lye flat. In some cases within a short space of time a man’s hair cut can look loop sided why?

Because the growth of the hair line is not considered.

The understanding of. Shape, weight distribution.The shape of the head, growth of the hair and finally the real kicker.


So why teach the way we do?  The head has so many different angles, all these must be considered. It is not just picking up a section and snipping it off. Making the section clean and straight.

The same can be said with thinning shears. Understanding when removing bulk to create less volume thin the hair. Understand the effect that it will have on the desired shape. Consider the type of hair. If you remove bulk. Will it create unwanted volume? Because of less weight? will it control curly hair and volume issues ? So much to consider

My passion is razor cutting and using my claws. Freestyle cutting. Allowing the hair to form a shape and  working with it.

Working in this fashion. One has to have a a vision, understand shape, hair growth, patterns, weight distribution.

So much to learn and a life time to learn it in. One does not have to know everything. We just need a willingness to learn. To improve, to share and gain knowledge. To constantly look to improve and challenge your self. To step out side of the box that safe area your own personal comfort zone.

Fear is what holds so many of us back. Fear of failure. Fear of exposing ourselves, being out of our depth. Everyone has these fears. It’s normal but we have to face them. A fear faced is no longer a fear.

We have so much to learn, so many paths to take, embrace this as a challenge to exceed you own personal expectations, what ever they may be.

The Hairdressing industry. Needs to be much more transparent. Open to sharing, from salon staff, to salon owners, to colour companies, schools, colleges. Be it education, knowledge or formulation and techniques.

We have to be aware of new products as they come to to the market and the salon, The formulation. The chemistry.The results one can expect. The indeed health safety issues if any.

What are the greatest challenges to stylist and salon owners and managers?Building up and retaining clients, having that trusting relationship built on skill honesty creative talent! Oh and Service.

As stylists we can so easily get caught up in being busy staying busy slightly over booking that we forget what is really important. The client. The service. The consultation. The after care advice and so sales.

Over the years I have come to realize that all of the above points are key to success. They are also the main things we as stylist’s forget, take for granted, they are the things we need to stay on top of, make part of our daily routine when working with our clients.

Challenging our selves to make changes into how we work, how we interact with our clients is not as an easy thing, to take a long hard look in the mirror and being honest about what needs maybe a little help some adjustment.

To share is to grow!

To strive to be better to make a real difference!

 Mike B2MR:

Comments Off on Hair Industry. The salon stylist client.

Posted by on July 25, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair


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Metallic salts and compounds in hair colour:


Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending

Do we really know what we are getting

In that wonder box of home hair colour!

It is my intention to shed some light and expose some truth around some of the nasty things found in hair colour chemicals that go unmentioned causing effects that can be dangerous!

Over view of products available:

THERE are many ways to color hair and many products which are used for coloring. The most widely used products fall into two classifica­tions—permanent hair colorings and temporary or demi- semi. It is essen­tial that the professional colour technician understand how the products in each group work and their effects on the hair.


Permanent colorings remain in the hair until they are removed by chemical means or until the hair grows out. The coloring cannot be washed out with soap and water. However, it can be changed if another shade is desired by using a colour remover or bleach and re-tinting the hair.

Permanent colorings are used to cover gray hair, to give decided changes in hair color, or to brighten or deepen an already existing shade.

There are two types of permanent hair colorings—those that penetrate in the hair shaft and the coating tints which develop on the cuticle.

The Penetrating Tints

Almost all permanent hair coloring is done with oxidation or penetrat­ing tints. These tints penetrate through the cuticle layer of the hair into the cortex and are there oxidized or developed by the peroxide to in­ soluble pigments deposited on the same place where the natural pigments occur. The distribution of the produced pigments inside the hair shaft in the same pattern as the natural pigment creates a natural-looking shade.

The tinting action of the permanent hair coloring stops as soon as the hair is rinsed and excess coloring is washed away so that the hair does not darken after the application.

Hair is not overly damaged if the penetrating tint is properly applied.Sometimes the penetrating tints  can even  seem to improve hair condition.

All oxidation or penetrating tints require a patch test to be given 24 hours before each application.

The coating tints develop on the outside of the shaft on the cuticle layer, obliterating light and producing unnatural colors. There are many kinds of coating tints stains, vegetable extracts and the metallic dyes.

Vegetable Extracts

In the past, many plants and plant extracts such as indigo, sage, camomile and henna were used for hair dyeing. However, today only henna finds continued use. Among its many disadvantages are the length of application time, uncertain results, and the unnatural red shades it produces. Over a period of time, henna coats the hair and suffocates the cuticle, making other chemical services inadvisable, It is impossible to remove henna from the hair.

So-called white henna is not henna at all but is magnesium carbonate application of white henna, with its strong alkaline reaction, tends to damage the hair.

Metal Salt Dyes and Metal Compounds

Metal salt dyes are usually composed of a solution of metal salt with thiosulfate. The metal salt dyes are called progressive dyes or color restorers, because each subsequent application increases the coating on the hair and it becomes progressively darker. These metallic dyes have a tendency to fade into peculiar colors. Those that contain lead turn purple. The dyes containing silver turn green, and those containing copper turn red.

There are some disadvantages of metallic salt dyes. There are relatively few shades of metallic hair dyes available limited by the properties of metal salts. However, the degree of color can be regulated by the frequency of application.

The more frequent the application, correspondingly the stronger the color. These dyes tend to produce quite dark and intense colors with frequent use. Metallic salt dyes can interfere with permanent waving they can and will cause a chemical reaction this can result in a heat reaction in some cases hair can dissolve or melt, so there are restrictions on using these dyes along with other forms of hair processing.{back to the stand test not done enough in salons seldom by the home hair artists.}

The advantages of metallic salt dyes if their are any! include their ease of use at home. The gradual change in color with repeated use is subtle so friends and associates may not actually realize you have started using hair dye. These dyes are relatively safe to use. Although made from metals, the modern formulas are not absorbed through the skin. There is usually no need for a patch test as it is extremely rare to become sensitized to metallic salts.


To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

Henna Compound Dyes

The henna compound dyes are mixtures of metallic salts with organic intermediates such as pyrogallol. The colors achieved with these com­pounds are more natural looking than those obtained with the metal salts alone, but no lightening of the hair is possible and they fade easily. They are discolored by cold wave permanents, and hair treated with these compounds cannot be bleached or dyed until the metallic salts have been removed. [removing metallic salts] good luck with that!

Red Henna comes from the Dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.

Natural henna comes from the crushed root.

Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with Metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products including Hydrogen Peroxide.

Warning :

If unsure do a strand test,[ Strong discoloration,an unpleasant smell. no colour change, uneven results down hair shaft, in some case applying permanent colour over    the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!]

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level!

Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna.

{Again before attempting any new colour strand testis essential!}


Temporary colorings deposit color on the outside of the hair shaft. They are generally removed by washing with soap and water, but some of the temporary types are resistant to one or two shampoos.

Temporary hair colorings are used to darken or to add highlights to normal hair, to impart color to gray hair and to eliminate yellowish shades from white and gray hair.

There are three kinds of temporary hair colorings:


For women who want only to highlight the color of their hair or add beauty to gray hair, rinses are the most satisfactory answer. Concen­trated rinses like the Clairol Come Alive series, while they wash out with soap and water, remain color true from shampoo to shampoo. The Come Alive series consists of Come Alive Gray, Come Alive Red, Come Alive Brown and Come Alive Blonde. They highlight mousy hair, and Come Alive Gray makes gray hair look more beautiful without unnatural blue and purple tones. The Come Alive rinses condition as well as color the hair. These rinses are easily and quickly applied and are valuable as an introduction to hair coloring.

Highlighting Shampoos

Some shampoos combine the action of a rinse with that of a shampoo to give highlights and slight color tones to hair. These shampoos gen­erally contain certified colors.{ some of these contain elements that build up in the hair}

Other highlighting shampoos do not contain coloring matter, but do contain a bleaching agent to achieve this effect. Their action is due to solid peroxide compounds present in a soap or detergent base.

Powders, Crayons, Mascaras, and Hair color Cremes

Powders are practically extinct today with the exception of the metallic powders which have returned to fashion for use in applying temporary hair streaks. again we are back with the metallic issues it builds up in the hair it causes chemical reactions.

Hair crayons are used to retouch newly grown gray hair in between tint treatments so that it blends with the tinted hair. The results are not comparable to regular retouching.

Read hair color instructions carefully

when in doubt, always do a test on a small strand first. But if you’ve made a mistake, don’t hide under a hat for months. Salons have color removers and their are some good over the counter removers B4 sold at Boots the Chemist. they will in most case take you right back to where you started, where hopefully, history won’t repeat itself.

I hope that this has and is helpful good luck with your next hair adventure:  


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