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Red Copper hair dye and colours maintaining them.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                        Hot Reds, fiery Copper, cool Red!

Be it home hair dye.professional colour good reds and copper hair colours are possible work with a stylist who understands colour the issues hair chart and will work with you on your hair dye issues.

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop, look like swimming pools. Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone. The more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play, we achieve this with the correct choice of peroxide the lifting agent that exposes the pigment we want to use. But even this is a balance to much lift will remove the red and orange, so depending on the vibrancy required we choose the strength of peroxide to expose the pigment we want. unless we are going tone on tone as the swatch is to the right the no lift is required just deposit.

Lets Introduce Dawn our client and Russell her stylist.

Dawn loves to play around with levels of and tones of red and coppers. I many cases this does not always turn out with good results it can sometimes fade quite quickly. Dawn again in their consultation explains to Russell that she has enjoyed being a lighter more copper shade over the summer but wants to know if she can go darker over the winter months. she also want a change of style.

Russell explains that this is possible and that it will not restrict going lighter in the future. He goes on to explain that although the roots would need a permanent colour formulation the rest can be done with a Demi permanent colour formulation. This allows for better colour retention and will allow for a switch back to a lighter or more vibrant colour in the future.

During the consultation with Russell. Dawn mentions that the Grey seems to be getting progressively worse. Russell explains that when natural red or copper hair starts to go Grey or lose it’s pigment it tends to look more salt and pepper this can make it look dull. However the up side is that although not as vibrant in it’s appearance it still has a great deal of gold pigment so receives colour more readily and is still quite easy to get target colour. Dawn has about 25% Grey hair per 2 inch section. This would require that 25% of the root formulation be on the N series at the desired level. Finally Dawn also say’s that although she wants to go darker and more solid it must still work with her skin tone and eye colour. Russell say’s that he totally agrees and that so long as we keep the colour warm and don’t go to dark it will not be problem.

As a note once you go darker than a level 5 you are getting more into brown shades due to the amount of blue pigment found in the colour. Russell brings over a few chosen swatches from the shade chart holding then against her face showing Dawn how the colours work with her skin tone and eye colour. They agree on a level 5 shade with a red almost brunette tone. Dawn say’s she is ready for a change and says thank you for all the explanations.

Down to the colour choice.

Although the target is a level five to use a level 5 formulation would be to dark. Given the percentage of Grey of 25% 5N will provide the pigment for the Grey issue and give the colour depth. The rest of the roots formulation 6RB {red beige} 75% , plus 20 volume peroxide

Mixing ratio 1 part colour to 11/2  times peroxide or mixing 7.5 grams 5N+ 22.5 grams 6RB or 1oz. to 45 grams 20 volume peroxide or1 1/2 oz [30 grams =1 oz]

A little technical i hope not!

The reason behind this would be the 5N provide the pigment and controls the warmth exposed by the peroxide [no hot roots] the 6RB gives depth and tone. To colour balance once the root application has been applied the colour application mid lengths to ends,  just 6RB with a Demi formulation deposit only left on for 20 minutes. After full processing time again off to the back wash fro shampoo and conditioning

.

Remember this was a colour request to address both Grey issues and take the colour darker with an even colour healthy colour, no hot roots or line of demarcation.

Russell sits with Dawn and explains that to colour her roots is a fine balance of using the N series to colour the Grey. But not wanting it to be drab or dulled down warmth has to be kept. One of the dangers Russell explains this is something known as Hot roots! we see them all the time. Sadly done by professionals as well as the at home when using home hair dye applications. It’s caused by to much lift at the roots this brings out to much natural red/orange pigment and lifts the roots to much creating a very bright line. Known as hot roots. In reality it’s a formulation lacking blue pigment.

Above first shots a before shot showing hot root issue dark ends. Below new colour showing rich dark vibrant even colour with textured razor cut.

Remember the Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker.Careful regular maintenance is essential.use of good shampoo and condition at home is also highly recommended. stylist should recommend home hair care retail advise. Finally a happy smiling clients says it all. job well done

Some tips on hot and cool reds,vibrant coppers:

Is it seasonable reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours. When we think of reds their are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.

Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour

choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients Hair. All food for thought? but we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on  tone, to go Darker to lighter the key is to A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain  what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun. use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race.

Using this  method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. Consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job! Discuss with your client a long term plan and vision that allows for change and creativity.

All shots below and above the same model so change is possible so is long term client retention and relationships!

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High fashion Reds.Vibrant Coppers.


                               Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:



                                  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

Hot reds, rich coppers always lurking just waiting to jump back into the pages of fashion magazines vibrant alive. Yet as a colour and shade it scares so many. So when celebrity suddenly comes out with a new look heads turn trends are set.

Is it  a seasonable trend? Reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours.

As we discuss this topic. The model in all cases below is the same model I have showed this to prove that change is possible.

 

When we think of reds there are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.

Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour choosing the correct shade is just the start of the colour equation. To achieve a real rich vibrant colour three main things have to be considered. the clients Natural hair level Ideal shades N5 to N7 the correct level of peroxide and right choice of shade.

Why levels 4N to 7N because these are the best levels to retain red and orange pigment after lift.Level 4 through 6 ideal for reds 6N THROUGH 8N as we lift the copper shades will be more advised.  all good food for thought and consideration.

We also need to consider the formulation for root application. This will also take some consideration namely the percentage of Grey? The amount of Grey dictates the amount of N series required in the formulation . As well as target colour and desired level of peroxide.  the way to assess this is take a section and 2inches long a see what percentage is Grey! if 25% then that would normally be the amount of N series required.  Without N series you may end up with hot roots! After root application colour balance with desired target colour formulation .

Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem so please do consider your formulation when dealing with Grey coverage.

The two shots above below are pre root application and then colour balanced final colour.

With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair.

 

As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same colour family. Red. Red Copper,  Copper Red. Red brown.  They all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

 

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone.

 

To go darker to lighter the key is to use the natural pigment  in the hair you are lifting. Don’t try for to many levels at once. Remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. As you can see from the model shots same model different shades.

 

 

A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.

Always consider the environment you are working on. This includes all history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

 

 

Have some fun enjoying some warmth for the summer months. Reds can and will tend to fade as can the copper shades . By retaining and working with the natural pigment. Choosing the correct formulation  then recommend good products  and care routine. Good products and sound advise will  keep that rich colour alive and healthy.

Reds fun Vibrant never dull but always a challenge! Mike B2MR

 

 
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Posted by on July 13, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Darker hair shades wanting to go lighter:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I don’t quite remember when the penny really dropped about understanding hair colour. I don’t just mean the application of it . I refer to understanding. Lift. Deposit. Pigment achieving that desired perfect colour and shade.

The process of lift both naturally red and warm shades as well as the naturally darker shades wishing to go lighter. Both have the same issues dealing with the warm pigment exposed. Orange and Yellow Orange.

A challenge in it self but some natural colours are harder to cope with than others. Depending on what the desired shade is.

So lets take a look at our warm shades Reds, Coppers, Rich brunette.

Lets use a scenario of wanting to go lighter. By that I suggest a Blonde shade. Most people who want blonde do not want to see. Orange or Yellow. The same will apply to Asian hair or any one with natural dark pigment as it’s lifted Orange will be the issue.

This create many issues for our natural reds and coppers heads, so lets take a look at what may arise and some option of how to address them.

In so many cases the main thing to consider are? How light to go? What shade of blonde is achievable? The consultation process is key here before making any application of colour, bleach/decolouriser. or using a high lift Blonde formulation as above

With Red pigment being the hardest to lift and control a realistic vision and a game plan are the key to success.

With a natural bright copper colour [sometimes know as ginger]. A bright copper natural base shade would normally be around a level 7 on any shade chart. So quite light and yet full of those pigment tones red and red orange, yellow. To get to any shade of Blonde we have to lift up to and beyond level 9 and infact 10 and beyond and be able to control pigment exposed.

The issue being. As you manage to lift the red and orange pigment out you then hit the yellow pigment bar. Because of the strong pigment in this hair the yellow pigment will be really intense so mistakes can be made when controlling it with a toner.

I have seen so many natural Bright copper heads with attempts at highlights that can look. Green, dull metallic, drab.

The main reason is choice of toner. In many cases we reach as stylists for a toner with an ash base, but lets think about this ash is blue base toner,  blue and yellow make? Green hence the dull drab tone

Consider using a violet base.Why? Well we have lifted the hair removing all the red pigment. There was hardly any blue to start with. So to find a balance of shade we have to replace the missing pigment red and blue, this equals Violet in some cases maybe a blue violet base could be required.

Its all about considering the pigment you have exposed and what your target is. Its also worth mentioning that one needs to consider skin tone and eye colour when taking a natural copper level into blonde shades will it look good!

The same consideration should be applied to rich brunettes although a little blue pigment on the surface you with be lifting from around a natural level 5 into reds then copper orange, my suggested goal here would be a caramel shade not to blonde it will look dull yellow slightly dirty!

Lift to a pale orange yellow shade. Then tone with a blue violet toner. This will re balance the pigment exposed leaving a really rich caramel highlight.

Again when lifting the hair consider skin tone eye colour. A natural brunette will normally have brown or hazel eye colour so to light will wash out the skin and the eyes will not pop!

The main considerations as stated are. Natural hair level, skin tone, eye colour. A realistic vision of lifted goal level. Will the desired look be flattering? It’s not our goal to dictate but is is to advise,honestly in the consultation process.

Consider the pigment you will be encountering make sure you have thought through what you are doing and what look you want. It’s all about pigment control. Understanding the colour wheel trusting the colour wheel. Yes trusting the laws of colour. Do this and you will not have unwanted tone.

Know your products that is the colours you use know how they work what you can expect from them. know that when lifting red hair however light you go Yellow will be the issue Violet will be you tool.

When lifting level 4 and darker Orange will be the issue Ash will be your tool

If you are lifting hair that has been previously coloured I would suggest consultation strand test. I would suggest working from the ends into the roots when lifting?

Many more issues can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.

In closing I know i bang on about the colour wheel understanding tone  making the right tone choice but it’s the key to successful colouring . Knowledge is power.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hot reds, rich copper, Hair colours:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

copy right pending.

 

Hot Reds, fiery Copper, Brunettes.

 

 

 

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.

Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop look like swimming pools.

 

 

Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone the more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play But even this is a balance to much lift  re remove the red and orange to little and we control that vibrancy.

 

 

The Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker. finally once in the hair it can prove quite difficult to remove.

 

When we have a natural level 7 it can be Blonde with a undertone slightly gold its very easy to go Copper. When going tone on tone or darker it is not necessary to use permanent colour.

In fact when going Red or copper level 7 and above the more or higher volume of peroxide the more copper the colour, you are adding orange to the hair with the lift.

 

For level 6 dark Blonde and level 5 light Brown again consider whether you need to lift and expose more pigment in the hair at level 5 and 6 10 volume will be enough to bring out extra red pigment.

 

Green eyes works with red hair as can cool skin tone it’s a question of getting the shade right so it compliments skin and eye tone.

 

Different shades can be played with to create tone and dimension, it is possible to go from copper to red to brunette and back it you think the process through!

I have intentionally shown the same model for most of the shots in an effort to show that change of colour and style is possible. with out over processing the hair.

As you can see it is easy to move between shades from quite dark brunette through to warm tones, they do effect skin tone and eye colour but not in an adverse

way.

 

All of these colour have been done with  10vol for root lift and Demi Deposit the darker shades Demi only remember tone on tone or darker does not require lift.

A choice of high volume of peroxide will warm up your chosen colour.

 

Above this rich copper colour is sectioned out into Zulu knots and four different shades of red and copper have been applied.

 

Above this Level 5 natural level 10 vol peroxide enough to bring out the red pigment but not enough for more lift to bring out orange would make this cool red more brown.

Enjoy have fun experiment: So many shades of reds and copper to experiment with.

looking forward to thoughts and comments Mike B2MR

 

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Hot reds coppers switching hair colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

 

When we think of reds there are just so many shades to choose from. Hot reds Warm controlled reds. Copper shades all the way through to cool blue mauve reds.

The red shades are the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour.

The rule is hardest to get into the hair last to come out!

Choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients hair to give depth and longevity to colour. If we use to higher volume of peroxide we can lift the hair to much lifting out any red or orange and giving us a yellow orange pigment base. Always consider target colour and what will be exposed in the lifting process.

 

Faded dull with Grey root issue

All food for thought? But we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance on mid lengths and ends.

Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.

Hot roots are normally caused by lack of N natural series or a controlling green or blue base if to bright.

 

 

 

 

 

With these examples of red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair.

As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

 

 

Rich vibrant even colour root to end

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages. Work up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone. To go Darker to lighter the key is to use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise.

A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.

 

 

But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

Take into account any issues during the consultation Grey issues can be resolved so you don’t have a thin deposit or  hot roots . Remember Grey issues will require some amount of the N natural series in the root formulation the level of peroxide you choose is the other deciding factor.

The model above to the right  has a Grey issue but as you can see a rich vibrant even colour is possible

 

 

As you can see from these last three shots. new shots same model new  deeper richer red almost brunette shade.  Why? Well as we are dealing with a little more Grey a to vibrant  copper could cause it to  look thin and with a possible bright roots issue.

A razor cut to create texture and movement no scissors used also added more texture with my claw finger razor’s.

 

I hope that is article is helpful and that it creates thought about lift deposit and target colour. Remember consider the issues and the environment you are working on.

Mike B2MR

 

 

 

 

 

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Natural red heads wanting to go Blonde, The issues


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

I don’t quite remember when the penny really dropped about understanding hair colour. I don’t just mean the application of it . I refer to understanding. Lift. Deposit. Pigment achieving that desired perfect colour and shade.

A challenge in it self but some natural colours are harder to cope with than others. Depending on what the desired shade is.

So lets take a look at our warm shades Reds, Coppers, Rich brunette.

Lets use a scenario of wanting to go lighter. By that  i suggest a Blonde shade. Most people who want blonde do not want to see. Orange or Yellow.

This create many issues for our natural reds and coppers heads, so lets take a look at what may arise and some option of how to address them.

 

In so many cases the main thing to consider are? How light  to go? What shade of blonde is achievable? The consultation process is key here before making any application of colour, bleach/decolouriser.

With Red pigment being the hardest to lift and control a realistic vision and a game plan are the key to success.

With a natural bright copper colour [sometimes know as ginger]. A bright copper natural base shade would normally be around a level 7 on any shade chart. So quite light and yet full of those pigment tones red and red orange, yellow. To get to any shade of Blonde we have to lift up to and beyond level 9 and infact 10 and beyond and be able to control pigment exposed.

The issue being. As you manage to lift the red and orange pigment out you then hit the yellow pigment bar. Because of the strong pigment in this hair the yellow pigment will be really intense so mistakes can be made when controlling it with a toner.

I have seen so many natural Bright copper heads with attempts at highlights that can look. Green, dull metallic, drab.

The main reason is choice of toner. In many cases we reach as stylists for a toner with an ash base, but lets think about this ash is blue base toner,  blue and yellow make? Green hence the dull drab tone

Consider using a violet base.Why? Well we have lifted the hair removing all the red pigment. There was hardly any blue to start with. So to find a balance of shade we have to replace the missing pigment red and blue, this equals Violet in some cases maybe a blue violet base could be required.

Its all about considering the pigment you have exposed and what your target is. Its also worth mentioning that one needs to consider skin tone and eye colour when taking a natural copper level into blonde shades will it look good!

The same consideration should be applied to rich brunettes although a little blue pigment on the surface you with be lifting from around a natural level 5 into reds then copper orange, my suggested goal here would be a caramel shade not to blonde it will look dull yellow slightly dirty!

Lift to a pale orange yellow shade. Then tone with a blue violet toner. This will re balance the pigment exposed leaving a really rich caramel highlight.

Again when lifting the hair consider skin tone eye colour. A natural brunette will normally have brown or hazel eye colour so to light will wash out the skin and the eyes will not pop!

 

The main considerations as stated are. Natural hair level, skin tone, eye colour. A realistic vision of lifted goal level. Will the desired look be flattering? It’s not our goal to dictate but is is to advise,honestly in the consultation process.

Consider the pigment you will be encountering make sure you have thought through what you are doing and what look you want. It’s all about pigment control. Understanding the colour wheel trusting the colour wheel. Yes trusting the laws of colour. Do this and you will not have unwanted tone.

 

Know your products that is the colours you use know how they work what you can expect from them.

 

 

 

If you are lifting hair that has been previously coloured I would suggest consultation strand test. I would suggest working from the ends into the roots when lifting?

the laws of colour

Many more issues can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.

 

Mike B2MR

 

 

 

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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