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Hair stylists personal career development


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is personal development do you give it any thought? Do you take any time to plan your career once qualified? Have you ever considered the many options available to you in the hair industry and thought about how best to improve your skills and knowledge?

Work on thinking about a plan of action for your career making some clear choices and taking action. Maybe this is not you and our happy just working as a creative stylist in a salon. Experience over the years has shown me that eventually this is not enough for most stylist they want more responsibility they want more control.To get this you have to have a plan a vision and some goals. What are yours? Are you ready to trust yourself take control of your future?

Investing in one self and ones future:

To succeed in at any level in Cosmetology demands quality.professional skill. Creativity talent and technical knowledge and ability. In the Hairdressing profession many individuals have great artistic skills.But they fail or let them sleeves down by not having or acquiring the technical knowledge to make those skills truly great. 

Would you like to gain more experience in other aspects of the hairdressing industry. Are your ready to challenge your self? Maybe your goal is to own your own salon. Have a freelance business. Maybe become an educator for an international hair colour company. A platform artist.Artistic team member. College tutor.Climb the ladder to salon management. All very worth while. Deciding on what path to take,where your true vocation lies is not easy so should not be rushed. Reaping the rewards from hard work and commitment is very satisfying but is it enough? Constantly pushing your self striving to be the very best you can is very challenging but so very worth while could this be you?

The Hurdles and obstacles can seem immense one has to stay committed and focused embrace the challenges. Be prepared to face rejection over come obstacles deal with the emotional challenges of an unchartered journey and adventure stick with it however daunting however demanding it is. Sounds like a great deal of hard work. It is but nothing is easy and it would not be a challenge or so rewarding at the end if it were handed on plate!

The big thing the key is you don’t have to do it alone unaided there are many in this industry here to help and advise you you only have to search them out connect and ask for advise for help and you will get it. With so many talented, focused, driven, motivated stylists and industry professionals help is always available. As an industry professional how can you create that edge how can you keep it? Become a specialist in your field the one people turn to for advise and guidance become a business success. What ever your choice be it.

To be a top stylist. Own your own business. Be platform artist.There are no short cuts but having a clear vision and an understanding of how things work.What path to take this can really help you over the hurdles and obstacles you may face while making this vision a reality.

Apart from having the right up to date qualifications .You must have a full and extensive record of your journey your training your education your soil level qualification and certification. Show a history of having attended education updates, prove creativity, demonstrate skills in service and consultation. Have an interest in business management staff management and training. Show a willingness to learn and commitment earn trust show loyalty gain respect.

Websters defines the word skill as ‘ The ability to use one;s skills effectively’ Todays hairdressers must have a strong working knowledge of the hair, chemistry, the hair structure, the products available, trusting manufactures is no longer enough or safe! know this before you can effectively show your artistic and creative skills through colouring and handling chemicals and products. Again there are no short cuts to knowledge the more you understand who hair colour works and reacts on human hair the better prepared you will be to face the challenges that can and do arise.

What does investing in one self man? Is it costly? Is it worth while? let me tell you,Investing in oneself does not have to be financial- It can and could be a simple as time well spent! We must all look in the mirror and be honest about what needs  attention what needs some adjustment. The real key is knowing from the bottom of your heart.What you truly want where you want your career to go what lengths your are prepared to go to to make. Your dream. your vision. Your quest a reality.

Sadly this does not mean that financial expense is not apart of this, sometimes parting with hard earned cash is the driver and motivator. Seek help. Do the work. Reap the rewards. Self investment. How many people sign up for gym membership to get healthy drop a few pounds ? They go a few time then always find an excuse not to go eventually  the membership runs out or gets cancelled the Gym gets blamed oh it was costly it did not work for me!! when you pay the membership you still have to do the work someone else is not going to ride that bike and get fit or lose weight for you! Same deal with investing in education skill training knowledge you have to commit to the work the program.

Help can and does come in many forms It could be useful books or downloads. Seminars. Courses. Presentations. Demonstrations. Webinar. Video links. what works best for you how do you learn what keeps you motivated stimulated your choice. The key is to have that vision of what you want where you want your career to go.  Research  your choices!

Think of your career as a bus journey.There are lots of people on the bus with you,some getting on and off others staying on for the ride.But hey your the driver take your eyes off the road and pops! your in control drive your career take your path.We are all in charge of our own destiny we have to make choices and live with the consequences challenging our selves and those around us for we are all linked through our industry our passion our commitment to development and change.


There are many professional bodies and groups ready to help and offer advise should you need any help please contact me and we can discuss a path a journey plan for you. I have many contacts and access to some really wonderful supportive material.

Mike B2MR

For links and information check out about B2MR http://back2myroots.co.uk/

for salon support and much more                        http://www.karendavidintl.com/


 


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Salon support staff.Young workers your trainee’s apprentices.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

The salon would not function without assistance without that team who work so hard to support the stylist from. Shampooing to mixing hair dye or colour to sweeping the floor. making coffee helping clients.

Working behind the scene to maintain.

Every salon has and needs these the young enthusiastic trainee and assistants often underpaid over worked and in some case taken advantage of. Not every assistant is training or doing an apprenticeship. For some the role they have is just to keep the salon running support the stylist and team. They work relentlessly shampooing, doing towels,washing and drying. sweeping, making coffee, filling up and replacing products.

They are the unsung heroes in the salon. Often taken for gratitude sometimes ignored. A salon could not work with out them. Stylist and salon owners should not treat these young people or indeed ask or expect them to do anything they would not be willing to do themselves. Respect  your fellow work mates team members. Never forget we were once just like them! did you ever resent a stylist? I did.

In many cases it’s the apprentice that is used for these roles doing many of the salon support chores. This can only be acceptable if the salon has in place a proper structured training programs of both in salon training, model nights and day release for college to attain the necessary level of qualification. Sadly in to many cases young trainee’s and brought into the salon paid minimum wage promised a good training that never materialises.

Both salon owners and indeed stylists who benefit for all the help and support these young people give.  You owe it to them to give time to make sure that get full and proper training. You should embrace this it can be so rewarding don’t look at it as chore  think of it as a challenge with huge rewards. Remember the day will come when you will need some help or wish the trainee was better trained!  Any stylist however busy cannot expect to use these these young trainees and not give back of their time and knowledge, skill to not mentor and train will only lead to the apprentice trainee getting disillusioned  and eventually leaving. the drop out rate in out industry is so high.

We all need to think back to our own journey and training was it a good experience? What would you like to have had more of? Make your apprentices experience better! This raises standards and encourage them to carry this on into their career. Think about the many aspects and skills one has to learn! As an owner be part of this encourage it. lead by example.

We can all make a difference sharing and giving off ourselves and our time is one such way.What is the point of having skill and knowledge and not sharing it? Look for the best in these young people an help them to develop into amazing creative salon team members. Also make them accountable for their actions and attitude for this is a two way street of giving sharing mutual respect commitment and trust.

Invest in your team and your salon will flourish. Collaborate, encourage creativity, investing both time and money into training is investing in your business now and in the future to abuse and neglect staff training issues is to fail in the long run it’s leads to decent and can be very disruptive to business.

Invest your time get to know these young trainee’s and apprentices share with then your communication skills your people skills your passion. What you will get back is far more support loyalty trust respect. In the salon and in life we have to unconditionally give out to get back sharing mentoring those skills that wisdom and knowledge are no different. Support your trainee’s and apprentices. Invest in your self by investing time in others!

Mike B2MR

 

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A hair colour disaster and fix.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Here we are looking at a colour correction scenario:

*What is the best way to share with you? To look at real issues!

*How do we put all of this new found information into practice. By solving issues.

*How do we apply this knowledge in a practical sense? Does it really work. By thinking through the issue panning!

By sharing some real life salon colour stories with you.

We can cover many of the issues that you can expect and do come across daily with your clients. [ please note names of clients and stylists changed events situation are based on real events] Permission to publish and relay these cases have been sought and given.

In all my years as an educator I have been fortunate and have had the pleasure to be invited into many salons. These are some cases that arose whilst spending time in any given salon or in my own career as a stylist none are made up. In most cases of salon colour mistakes the error are caused buy the stylist making poor choice for applications.

Lets get on our colour case:

Alison came into the salon. She had long hair mid way down her back. Her goal going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights. She had solid colour built up with a number of applications over number of visits.

Sounds easy Right?

Firstly Alison needed to have a consultation with Paul her stylist. Discuss her goal and optimum colour target. Both need to be honest about past colour history. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour that had been used for previous colours was a rich dark brown around level 4. In this instance Demi colour formulation for tone on tone deposit only! Long term build up would be a issues. This came out in the consultation process.

Lots of pigment would have built up over time and application this needs to be lifted and  underlying pigment exposed. With the build up of darker shade in the mid lengths and ends  the lifting process would take some time. Staring from the ends and working towards the scalp. It was discussed that the root will lift Blonde very quickly. So the approach would be to use a bleach formulation with be applied to the ends and mid section first. The roots would be left until a desired level was attained as they would lift very quickly. The Prolonged use of the dark brown colour over a long term would cause build up of colour mid length’s and ends.

Alison should have been given a strand test. She did ask for strand test Paul her stylist said’  That will not be required [first mistake and short cut] . Is this that hard?  Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured or lifted prior to full head application. It’s lazy .It’s un professional it’s taking short cuts!

This would have required especially as. Bleaching out old pigment and applying the formulation from the ends up through mid length and finally to the root would create colour bars of pigment also taking into consideration the weave of the highlights.Once lifted evenly to a desired workable tone. Apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.

Why so work end sot roots you may ask? The ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. This pigment exposed in the lifting process will tend to be very warm copper or orange. This will need toning to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

After her consultation with Paul. Alison is ready to get her new caramel low lights done

                    pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Above: Is picture of the hair prior to the colouring.

As stated this colour was always done as deposit only. No lift when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide. Any build up of colour is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. Many salons over book they don’t allow the time or put in the effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It’s how it was supposed to look. But it’s the client who has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.

They have trusted us.Sat in the chair patiently.They asked all the right questions. They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

                                     After low lights

Why does this happen? What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think? Why do you think it went wrong! Paul had done the consultation asked all the right questions. But took short cuts starting with refusing the need for a strand test. By not thinking the process through working in from the ends to the mid length finally to the roots. He rushed and failed. He did not allow enough time for the different levels of lift to be addressed.

Remember the request was for low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation .Remember if he had lifted the hair from ends in. Allowing for the fact that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly. All would have been well, time consuming but it’s never race!

Lets review. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job. Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.

The mid lengths did not lift as much as required or expected they formed a colour bar. A very bright copper orange as the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths into the ends lifted such a little that they still look solid and dark very little lift. There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!! use the tools we have consult charts .work within the rules.

The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. Paul let his client down. He let the salon down. He let himself down! Oh how does this look to the staff what message does it send Paul is the owner!!

Can this be fixed: Yes or course it can. As stylist’s when things go wrong we have to drop any attitude and put right a wrong.even more so when it in no way the fault of the client,who now has to return find more time and we have to regain that trust! drop the ego! 

To review:  The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

                               poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided client Alison. But as you can see it really was a poor job. When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job. First though was how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.

My suggestion would be get rid of it ASAP! Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.

How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance. My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation. Once pre filled apply target shade over the top apply liberally leave to process.

Alison waited a week to get back into see Paul. This is not acceptable it should have been corrected on the day. In some cases this may not be possible in this instance it would have been. As mentioned with the issues created a pre-fill to replace the pigment removed would give the hair depth of tone and solves any issues of fading.

Alison asked if it might be a good idea to put some pigment back in the overly blonde roots. { How did she know to ask for this? yes i advised her.} Sadly Paul still in a hurry still taking short cuts indicated this would not be required one application would be enough. Well one would be enough and look fine as she left but long term in the days and weeks ahead? It will fade.Paul applied the 4N Demi formulation directly over the top and the colour was restored to a rich solid all over Chocolate Brown.

However Paul has taken short cuts. This colour will fade he may well lose a client through what lack of service! The colour did start to fade within a week. Sheila went to a different salon Carl lost a good client.

Here is my thinking on the Fix:

In this instance if our goal is  to achieve a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, to prevent fading and give depth of tone. However i will also need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

              look for location of orange section blue green section.

Lets look at the chemistry of a formulation.

4N has a Blue green base.

Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.

So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange

The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green

The out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.

Finally the after shot again provided by Alison I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her at various stages throughout the process in return she allowed me to share the experience.

Out come

The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift. Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it’s a very easy way to repair poor colour issues. As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit. it will last and stay rich and deep and healthy looking. Alison now has a new Stylist and is happy to be a rich dark brunette shade again. Sadly the experience has put her off trying again for a new multi tonal look.lets hope over time her new stylist gains her trust.


 

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Hair cuts techniques styles


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I’m often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it’s quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic’s don’t change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree’s of layering. Simple it’s not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don’t know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It’s really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don’t do this are we really doing our job to it’s fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

                      ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

                                       well quite the change

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it’s life, guess what it’s raining it’s Grey it’s damp what it’s going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It’s all about honest it’s all about that consultation it’s all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

                   Razor cut side view lots of movement and texture

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 


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Chair or booth rental Mobile freelance.The challenges


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Salon ownership Chair rental mobile freelance.

Do you own a salon? Do you employ your staff? Maybe have chair renters are you the manager of such an establishment? Are you an employee? Do you rent a chair. So many question so many options!  I raise this topic as platform to discussion.

Still focusing on service the salon experience but looking at it from a different angle I would like to do this in the order as above.

As a salon owner and employer how do you set a good example? How do you employ the right staff? How do you create the environment that projects ambiance,one that looks amazing yet has the right level of efficient offering professional service. A place that is welcoming creative filled with highly skilled passionate caring stylists. The only way this is possible is to be  hands on with your team leading managing running your salon. From a point of view of having retaining and attracting the right staff in this instance the only way forward for you is to have Salon control.

This includes employing staff paying commission rewarding those who succeed.

As an owner you have very little control over the stylist hours. How they operate if you choose the chair rental route then the stylist renting space from you  running a mini business within  your salon. This can cause issues over pricing hours worked commitment to the salon the greater good!

Some times short term gain is long term agony.Commission creates motivation employing and rewarding staff creates team spirt and friendly competition with in the salon. Greater staff incentive to succeed be the best you can and reap the rewards.

So like so many aspects of business it’s about choices making a decision and making it work the instant knowledge of regular rent or the challenges and rewards of truly running and building a successful business with loyal staff and clients.

So moving on. Do you have a manager?

If so this has to be a partnership that works give and take listen support each other. As a manager you get to not only over see many aspects of the running of the salon but you are also directly responsible for staff employment moral and most importantly service standards knowledge and education.

You get to help to creating the atmosphere the image. you get to grow the salon help it watch it succeed and grow and should be rewarded accordingly. Salon owners that take advantage of hard working managers will lose them along with clients and staff if they don’t respect the role they play and what they contribute.

If you allow Chair rental. How do you control theses stylists when they are paying you rent? How many do you want on a rental agreement. how do you attract them? What hours will be covered by them? How do you manage this when they are in business of running a mini business within your business? Do you provide the receptionist ?

Who keeps the books and takes care of the financial side of things from. Taking clients payment to invoices? Ordering managing stock. Dealing with all tax records and making payment of said taxes?

What support service do you offer them? How do you have an influence on the standard the service they offer? To have a business totally reliant on Chair rental especially if you are not active as a stylist in your own salon or have an understanding of our industry the salon dynamics is quite a risk.

As someone renting a chair. What do you get for your monthly fee? What are your expectations? you and you alone are your business, no owner or manger to blame if things are not going well! if your clients switch to a different stylist or move salon. how to you cope when wanting holidays?

Most stylist who go into a chair rental situation are well established in many cases resent the salon owner who they feel are making a mint out of their work! From you and your client’s Chair renters are not typically team players nor do they want to start their own business. They are not always the best organised in many cases don’t think the what being self employed means or what the ramification might be.

As a renter you still need to be able to have a relationship with the salon owner  you are also responsible for retaining maintaining and bringing in new business providing your working stock, being on time, offering that personal service

Then the things that cross over come to mind does salon owner provide any services in the form of help assistance? Do they keep a level of retail products? Do they provide a receptionist to book greet clients? Do they offer any help with regard to book keeping your personal business management! a repeat from the salon owners point of view but as i said it’s a to way street many aspects will cross over eacht other.

These are all things to consider things that cut into that i just want to do hair and keep 100% of the take it can be quite complex.

Insurance both personal third party liability who is responsible for this? It would be my  suggestion both parties are responsible why? One as owner  providing the salon a place for clients to come to the stylist as the one performing the tasks applying the products taking a fee, both should be covered how is this dealt with?much to consider.

With all these different examples of in salon situations one thing is inherent the need to communicate the need to work together the need to create the best environment and standard of service to retain clients. a  healthy codependent relationship built on trust understanding and striving for a common goal stability and business success.

In my book it’s a no brainer the challenge and having the control being master of my own ship and destiny wins every time. Find and work with the right team the success and reward will follow.Nothing good in life is ever free or easy. If it is if it seem’s to good to be true if it’s a business plan that offer’s instant gratification.

Whilst Chair rental works for many on both sides think about what as a salon owner or some one about to start a salon it is you really want.Don’t lose sight of your dream your vision your goal. How do you want the service’s you offer delivered.

I do not suggest that stylist renting chairs are all unprofessional i know from experience this is not the case. However for both side it is a union that should not be entered into lightly.

Maybe as a stylist your the owner of your own small freelance business maybe your home based or make house calls, maybe your a booth renter and freelance.

 In many ways some of the above does and will relate to you. the main thing here is you often work alone,yes you are very busy,but how often do you really interact with other stylist’s and industry professional? how current are you really be honest? How often do you take the time find the time and say ,Time for a tune up ! I need to step things up? I need a refresher i’m feeling a little stale ! well? it happens to the best of us. My bet would be not very often if ever? your either to busy or convince your self that it’s not important! ego talking you know it all!!!

Be warned not addressing this visiting it can in the long term effect your business and so be something you will regret!

We all need to look in the mirror from time to time a little one on one, so often the demands on day to day life make this impossible. Make that time find that time to reflect on your goals be honest about how current you are is your vision still on track! How up to date are your skills, techniques, even product knowledge.

However much the rewards are working alone is very isolating even if your booth or chair renting unless you make  a point of having interaction with others. We need to share and interact with other like minded professional it’s how we grow and learn and develop.

WHY IS THIS?

The skill the techniques the standard of service should not change or be effected because we work alone or in a small team, yet in so many cases the need the want to stay updated and current gets pushed aside priorities !!

The key contributors to this is ourselves our own ‘EGO’ and fears we can so easily convince our selves that we know everything,We did our training got qualified we know it all.HUM to that! talking with others asking or seeking help or advise form others,indeed just sharing thoughts can give a whole new focus and out look on things. Remember it’s about you your vision of what really is success.

These days we have so many ways to connect with others,through internet groups and forums,get informed read reviews on shows and education events, no more excuses!

hang out for  awhile at your local distributor ,It’s a great way to meet stylist just like your self,chat about colour lines and products.With so many products available to us and so many coming to the market all the time it’s no wonder we could do with a little refresher form time to time. i know i do !

Be it technical work,cutting techniques, salon service and consultation skills. aspects of running a small or independent business. communicating with other industry professional .it’s all these things that we need to address keep up to date with and be honest about.

We need to put ‘EGO’ aside seek out the right source of help and be prepared to take constructive advise,Critical comments on how to improve.work with some one you respect who can work with you on the key investment in self.

Are you ready to walk a new path? invest in your won future,Market that product that is you? no matter what your current situation is be it Mobile,freelance booth or chair renter, Be and stay current take those steps to shine and excel.Be in demand fully booked successful and happy all possible.

lots to consider what are your thoughts and views?

Mike B2MR

looking for some business support then check out http://www.karendavidintl.com/  a great place for help and support.

 

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Natural Herbal organic hair colour.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do however try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products I come across. Or that seem new and exciting

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

If MEA has bee around for so long how is it such a new innovation? Is it just a re hash of another type of alkaline? We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many ‘Ammonia free products’ without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don’t we question why do we trust!

This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional? just because it’s say’s ‘Herbal’ and has a natural plant extract photo on the box does not make it healthier than anything else.

Lets be clear it’s marketing.It’s selling you what you are being conditioned to ask for!

The question I ask is simple. Is it really a new innovation? Is it really any less harmful than Ammonia? Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  Also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ?

Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive.

This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released. 

(Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.}

Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

There is no proof that Ammonia washes off the hair fully or that MEA is any better or indeed washes out it is suggested the Silicon oil does remain in the hair ! whats in that oil?

Breakage, fading, damaged, over-processed hair will occur when using chemical based color. Try Organic Color Systems for the best, most gentle, natural, organic results. Good luck! Don’t give up on your desired hair color, just take a different approach.

In many cases Ammonia becomes more damaging depending on its strength higher levels certainly open the cuticle more! but in low levels and controlled  0.4% 1.2% found in some professional colour is in my opinion safe to use and can be trusted to attain good colour results.

Below is a link and article found posted through twitter both very interesting i think this company really is trying to make a difference have some integrity:

                                                 See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no replyI have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?


Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.quote:

Mike, I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

Months later product never arrived so cannot give any up date.I still await an organic hair colour company to provide some product to try and education material that is open and transparent in both chemistry use and expectation/final results.

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour. Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

An example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends! The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Now, just a few months later, Some salons are coming to a rude awakening – that the chosen product line is not ammonia freeand is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.

What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredient labels of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for I certain post shampoo recommended for post-color shampoo with  “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label. always read directions always read formulation never trust the sales rep! do your own research ask questions? Keep asking question until you get the right answers.

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

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Hair colouring and techniques idea’s


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

 Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                             sharing thoughts

Over the years hair coloring techniques have changed with the times with the demands. From. Fashion trends. The constant demands for new looks for individual looks requiring new techniques and skills, that allow us to create new looks to correct and possible camouflage poorly or badly done hair colour.

In some cases colour that is so badly done or damaged. That the last resort calls for radical action maybe a perky cut or as a last resort a wig. Yes this can and does happen. but it should not it need not! how ever extreme a look it can still have a eye stopping edge and look great!

Formerly lightening/lifting jet-black hair would mean hours of bleaching.This would leave hair in. Poor condition. Unhealthy and over processed. Often with orange red mid-lengths and ends. With yellow roots more straw like than anything close to blonde. In some cases those looking for strawberry blond commonly end up with some shade of red or copper.

We now have some colour removing products on the market. These are worth considering when wanting to go from light to dark but always do a strand test. Get professional advise or a consultation.For those wanting to try a darker shade. Without care thought and attention to the process a Gothic look caused from going to dark can happen. Bad hair, Bad High lights is quite common place!

Modern hair coloring techniques and liberation of colour and appearance have made fire-engine red a fashion trend for some. Instead of a hair coloring catastrophe this can be a acceptable life saver now days when the removal of dark hair fails and a red hue takes over. It’s is possible over time working with your client to change both look and colour. [ above shot and below same model]

Modern hair coloring techniques can when done correctly add true dimension and tone working with the  natural movement and swing of your hair cut and style.

Highlights and low lights are just a few of the choices that enhance both your hair your face style and appearance.  In addition hair coloring techniques include paneling and chunks, semi permanent and Demi permanent colour to refresh and brighten colour as it fades.

Types of Hair Coloring Techniques


Highlights:

Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brighten and add shine. Highlights work best on blonde to warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied with permanent hair color, but after time should be carried out colour balancing by addressing root issues and refreshing the previous colour with a gentle formulation

Problems can and will arise when continued permanent colour is continuously laid over previously coloured hair.

Low lights:

A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color.  low lights add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a dramatic, trendy look. this process can be applied with various shades can also be very effective when wanting to add darker shades of colour putting darker low lights can add as much dimension and tone as introducing lighter shade.

It is worth noting. That when going tone on tone and darker that a Demi formulation is sufficient when going darker we do not have to lift hair as part of the process. a common mistake made! if you go darker with a permanent colour you will introduce warmth to the chosen shade!

Refreshing: 

Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a richer tone over a permanent shade.

Paneling /Chunks: 

Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. or dramatic Blonde it is a hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding vibrant shades and bright  trendy colors to natural hair color.

Hair Coloring Technique Processes
 that are used most often are highlighting and low lights. Many different methods are used to achieve this effect. It’s my opinion the one that needs the least skill, is when your stylist pulls small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances your basic hair color the cap tends to not get as close to the root as other techniques and the holes dictate where the highlight goes with a cap only one shade can be applied at a time.

Foiling: 

Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root. many different techniques and products for this method papers foil it is favored by professionals and colour technicians.

freehand painting:

A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific areas and hand paints them with color. working with the wave and the way the hair naturally falls this  technique creates a dramatic implementation of a hair coloring technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance!

It’s important to note that although kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques. Professional stylists have the skill that comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like Grey, platinum, and black hair. It would be recommended to consult a professional if you intend to try a new hair color technique at home!  products designed for home use do not perform in the same manner as professional colour and techniques and application come with training and experience.

For many blog topic’s and to leave comment join and follow oh have fun but be professional. thanks Mike B2MR

 

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