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The dark side of hair colouring


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

If you’re are  like so many not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour.  This form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Leaving the hair full of life and shine,The amount of shade and tone created depends on choice of shades and number of different colour tones added. I would normally suggest add four complementary shades that work with natural base level.

The big question Why?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour.

                                                       Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:

It helps you to transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker.  In many case a Demi  colour application will last longer than a permanent hair color  due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. Remember if you are going dark or if as a stylist your taking someone dark then think formulation Demi formulation is as good for coverage as full blown permanent formulation. It will however over time make going lighter agin an easier transition!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

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Posted by on October 3, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair colour case review: Solid colour to highlights.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s:

Please feel free to post thoughts and comments on the topic’s articles and articles posted. Feed back help’s me to work on up coming topic’s.

Well this past week end was crunch time.

I have been colouring my wife’s hair a solid colour for quite a while. I have played with shades and tones and formulations. As we all know a colour can and will look different just by using a different level of developer.

Well sadly the Grey is creeping in. The re growth is appearing quicker and the depth of deposit and so longevity of vibrancy was getting lost.

Time to think a little lighter. Time to think high lights and low lights a mixture of shades. being the long term goal.

As you can see below: When first done this colour looks rich warm healthy looking:

Well I knew and know from experience this is not a quick or easy task, nor can one take short cuts!  No not because it’s my wife although that plays a part! But because this colour and so degree of deposit has built up over time so to get an even lift  down the full shaft of  hair i would have to start lifting from the ends in running a couple of different formulation.

I like to use papers for high lighting and find the best ones that don’t slip and will stay right up to the root without bleeding are Hi Lit Wraps By W.R Rayson. They come in various sizes are waxed paper so bio degrade with time. I will post a link at the end of Article.

Although an older shot from my archive: This shot below gives a very good example of the issues being faced. Roots and faded washed out colour.

I decided on my course of action my goal was to lift to a golden blonde at this time so that in the future we can high light and low light still adding some warm shades. But for now it’s breaking up a solid colour but with even lift. Fine highlights and low lights.

I would run 20 vol bleach decolouriser from end to mid lengths and 10 vol decolouriser mid lengths for now no root application for they will lift and go to light to quickly.

Once applied i left them on with visual timing as the correct shade was reached so i took them out a rinsed with water. Once this was complete and I was happy with the shade the full head was rinsed really well and then dried off.

Now a root assessment  to blend them in the lift achieved i Decided on two formulations her natural level is 7 but around 7G  so i used a 9N with 20 vol for the roots 1 part colour 1 1/2 developer  knowing the violet under tone would control anything to yellow This was applied only to the roots / regrowth.

Formulation.

I also used a Demi formulation of 9B for deposit only just to add a burnt honey tone through the newly lightened hair. so yes i put in a second set of high lights over the first but ended up with target shade and colour no banding and even lift. Taking us on the road to a lighter all over effect without it look yellow dull or drab.

The 9B has a green base at a level 9. So when applied over the existing copper it will neutralise to some degree thus creating a burnt honey tone. controlling the copper.

The process:

From now on it will be some lift with a low volume bleach decolouriser and some low lights of different shades depending on time of year . Less root issue and multi tonal shades for life and texture.

As promised here is some contact for the Hi Lite wraps.I am in the Uk and have found them very helpful with regard to service.

                                     hi lite wraps at work right to root

This collection of shots is to show the advantages of the Hi lite wraps the model in shot was having blonde high lights this is not part of the discussed above colour process. These wraps are so easy to use very light and fold over very easily. They are easy to manage when sliding them in to the roots clean neat section’s is the key working off of sections working with the shape and curve of the head and always taking into account the hair line and growth patterns.

When removing they pull out with ease with out snagging or any discomfort to the client.

                                many papers very neat to work with.

                                        right to roots no bleedingFor any one interested in the Hi-Lite wraps. I have also found this company so helpful they are based in the United states who knows maybe we can get them into the UK or Global.                                        http://www.sparenity.com/

I supply this information because of the out standing service they have given me not because of financial gain. Mike B2MR

A special note of thanks to Lien Le and Fran Martin.

 
Comments Off on Hair colour case review: Solid colour to highlights.

Posted by on June 16, 2011 in Avantgarde hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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