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Highlights and Blonde hair


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I have chosen this topic because I’m sure that so many have either had experience of it or thought on it as a subject. keeping on top of those roots that regrowth issue. That cycle of the more you colour the more you need to the eventual out come over processing.

Firstly Lets look a Highlights. Originally a form of colour that should work in conjunction with ones natural base shade . As we know over time and because of a love for that Blonde Highlight look. If the process is over done then roots on a regular bases can become an issue. The art is the balance between natural level and desired colour and tone. I would always suggest when doing highlights to try and keep a natural look one should always ask for a balance of high lights and low lights. ie. more than one tone maybe three shade plus natural bases shade.

Sometime when highlights are done on a regular bases or over lapped the look starts to become more solid. If this is the case talk with you stylist start to introduce low lights to regain a balance.

The art is also the sections we take. The weave we make how and where we apply the product. We have to only apply the colour and the formulation where it’s needed. our choice of sectioning is key to getting as close to the roots as possible.We should never forget we are working on a curved surface and have to section accordingly for the best possible results.

This situation sadly arises when a stylist does not advise on over doing or over processing. The nightmare can start when the advise given is. Oh you have so much colour now. Why don’t we just do all over colour!

So many things to consider take into account. So lets take a look at our options.

Firstly when going from Highlights to all over we are going from a weave to solid. So on first application one has to consider. Not just root application, but also the previous re growth so not to have banding issues.not to over lap and to try and mix colours and shades that work and blend in.

Then there is the issue of lifting the roots and them being lifted to much or not enough. either to yellow or to bright then having to tone.

Colour balancing shade and tone. Not just the newly lifted roots. but all of the hair root to tip not easy.

If going to all over colour you will get a solid root starting to show within three weeks. Normally it will need attention every six weeks.

I know some one who just went through this process from Highlights to all over sadly as soon as it was done she hated it .

The stylist Tried to put low lights in these went copper orange, a night mare. How could this happen?

Well when putting low lights back into lifted hair one should use a Demi formulation colour pigment deposit only! Not a permanent formulation with peroxide in it. Lift is not required.

The reason the low lights went orange in the above case was using a permanent formulation on already lifted hair . Not considering the fact that the hair is lacking pigment no lift. The requirement here was natural or neutral shades to be reintroduced. As you can see it is possible to put a mixture of formulations into the hair to get both lift and deposit Blonde with shade and tone.

So unless you feel really comfortable with your stylist both the advise given and skill level be very careful before switching from a highlight technique to all over colour.

MikeB2MR

 

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Hairdressing salon business model


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

                                      Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I think that it might be time to share a journey taken by myself into building and establishing a home based hairdressing business. Without any advertising fully booked successful in one year lets call it 0 to 50 that was the turn over year one.

At the time I was working as an educator and platform artist for a large North American hair product and hair colour company. Whilst really enjoying the shows. The travel. The events it had it’s down time and just doing salon hair colour education update was not challenging enough. So i decided to set up a salon at home.

This would be a small one man business built using my skills creativity and knowledge. My mandate would be to offer the highest standard of. Hair colouring. Colour correction, and razor cutting.

I would be using the skills and knowledge that educations had provided me with. My mandate was build up a strong clientele with a loyal following. Built up on recommendation word of mouth. No advertising very defined boundaries and work ethics and working hours.

I will cover boundaries, working hours and indeed charges as we move on.

This business model was not conceived on a whim it was modeled on experience gained over many years in the Hairdressing industry.

Ask your selves this question.  Why do we spend so much.Time. Money and energy looking for. New clients.Promoting the salon generally searching for that quick fix of success and big fully booked pay out days? When all the success we could ever want is right at our fingers tips.

What is this secret. Here are some easy tips that work and we will re visit and cover in some depth.

*High Standard of service.

*Honest consultation.

*Friendly but professional attitude.

*Skilled and knowledgeable.

*Affordable pricing.

*Regular hours.

*No waiting.

*Trust and defined Boundaries-house /salon rules.

*Very personal one on one service. keeping up to date client records history formulations.

*Product knowledge

See not a huge list but the keys to being very successful with a business that builds and maintains it self. keep it simple so lets go thorough the list in some depth.

To start this business I had to draw on my past experience with hair salons. Having managed a hair salon in Central London experienced ownership I had a good idea about business set up.

Experience of working with salons in Ontario, Vancouver and on Vancouver Island also helped me set up this small business. Contacts and relationships made with sales representatives also helps. Yes reps can be your friend.

When staring a business it is very important to get some advise from certain bodies.

*Bank business account

*Accountant

* Distributor

* check into Licenses, registration that me be required.

* keep clear records,invoices and receipts.

So lets take a look High standards of service. specialisation.Create your Target market.

What does this mean to me. It’s being attentive. It’s being welcoming. Its the atmosphere. The scene you set and create . This was me projecting me. Who I am. How I work. I would think of my salon as my space, as my play room, my sand box.

Service. This is being. Attentive. Caring. Willingness to listen. To be honest. Ask the right question. Make your client feel at easy comfortable. This is so important it sets the scene for open and honest discussion that all important consultation.

I would also take this time whilst getting them settled to explain how I work and why. Give a brief history of my self and career my belief and mandate.

This is a good time to show how knowledgeable you are and also show a little authority on the subject matter. That being hair and colouring. Of course answer any general questions that may arise. It is also a good time and way to assess the client. To get a feel for who they are. What their expectation might be and so how demanding they may be. We will touch more on this.

This moves nicely on to Honest Consultation.

This is such an important time to have the art of conversation and use and asses so much. The key is to be frank and honest about  the clients goals expectation. It is this time that you get to ask questions get a history of past services.

It is your time to assess the condition the look . You start to get an idea of what might or might not be possible. Remember the art of the consultation is to get your client to open up not just about past hair colour and style. But  you can also lead the conversation asking the questions to get the client to open up. Instead of. What do you want? How do you feel about? What would you like to see? In a perfect world. How do you see you style and colour? Remember. Honesty on your part as the stylist is the key.

Normally when the color mistakes are apparent the truth is impossible to ignore. The poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic.  So much so, that one really wants to help and fix this problem if at all possible.This would in some cases be correction.

The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.

Usually they have learned from the mistake  after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation.

Then there are the liars.  I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie.  As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service. This is not possible when a client make a choices not to give all the information or answer question honestly.

Here is an example of a normal client consultation:

A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change. let’s say going lighter.  We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair.  It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history.  whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage. If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair.  It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month.  If there is a any sort of line of demarcation. We know there was something “done” to the hair,  and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp.  When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason.  When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything.  To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue.  In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. stale mate helps no one!

The main thing not to forget is why the client is sitting in front of you.What can you do for her! The client, service, consultation, listening, honesty, humility, staff training and continued Education updates for all staff.

In some cases after a consultation it is ok to suggest that giving the hair a break from chemical service is the only way forward. If they will not commit to this. Then take my advise stop!

If a clients has hair that is really badly done. Over processed damaged beyond help. Unless they want to listen to you take your advise. If you don’t feel that you can improve on this. If it will not be an advert for you.Then why would you get involved it’s ok to say No!

If it’s is not going to be a good advert for you. Not going to be representative of your talent and ability.

Why get involved?

Consider this. Badly done over processed hair. As soon as you agree to fix it you are taking responsibility for all that has been done in the past! Consider is it worth it! If you decide to take this on them make them sign a client waive release form.

As a stylist consider are you fixing this. Because you can or do you have something to prove is this. I can do! Or EGO driven.

For me having boundaries being able to say No is Ok it’s honest it’s real it’s professional!

Friendly welcoming but professional

Is this possible you may ask your self ye sit did and it’s key to success. For it makes your client feel special wanted important. Now you don’t have to be all gushy nor false. It’s more about keeping a conversation real and about them.

That being said sharing some of your own life is also ok just not that did you  have a nice week end are you going on Holiday stuff!!!

It’s all about three things to remember about your clients people places things. listen to what they tell you take it in remember key things work life family it show you care and do listen.

Keeping it professional that is giving sound advise not bowing to silly demands those boundaries established are still key. So for example when they re approach the subject of cutting their husbands hair by stroking your ego saying how good you are . Thank them remind them that you don’t do guys hair. but say nice try though! I would always say i don’t enjoy male company however nice they are!

Remember key points about last hair do ultimate goal. If in doubt keep notes review before they arrive.

Its ok still shows you care. you are building trust a relationship key to client retention recommendation and ones sanity!

I hope that this will inspire some to take that leap to control your own future! standards and professional approach to hair dressing Mike B2MR

 

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Shades of Blonde for summer:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

 

Natural looking Highlights

Blonde For Spring and summer:



Blondes

Women and indeed some men have a love affair with being Blonde that Healthy, Natural, Sexy.

Trying to recapture that healthy sun kissed look once summer has ended can be difficult some times a disaster but done well following some advise and guide lines can help avoid mistakes.

 

In these challenging economic times some clients resort to home hair colour always looks so amazing in the commercial the reality is that one has to decide on so many factors when choosing a hair colour and blondes can be very challenging.

The hardest part is choosing the right product and shade so you get the desired lift shade or tone

Working with the  over the counter colour creates many issues for you, the shade fades into either a nice shade of yellow or brassy mess with an orange hue or a nice green tinge

 

In so many cases Highlights and other techniques start off a boost to enhance a natural look but over time it’s very easy to get to that point of needing the roots re touched every 6 weeks more so after a summer of colouring and the ravages from the sun for a more natural blonde look it’s time for some low lights the introduction of some tone and texture to those blonde locks!

 

Lets be honest here! this issue of going overly blonde is caused by both client and stylist the client wants to be that little bit blonder a pick me up, we as stylist thinks hey fine at the end of the day it’s another colour job bigger bill higher commission trust me i have been their I don’t write this from some place of Judgment just fact and experience.

 

I am going to post a few different shots in the blog and talk about them for me being successful is of course being busy having good client retention and getting recommendations new clients. over the years i have learned that being honest with clients setting targets goals works really well it earns respect trust and you keep your clients.

It is my firm Belief that good highlights can last 3 months sometimes longer is this bad for business? well consider this a good job that last longer gets you new recommended clients keeps you busy and yet you are not over colouring its working with the client its working with the base colour think of the head and hair as your canvas remember your the artist.

 

 

This is a 4 month re growth.needs some help but still looks sort of ok!

This client when i first started working with her was colouring her hair with Highlights every six weeks when first done looked nice but roots started showing within weeks the highlights were done with just Bleach/ decolourizer yes makes Blonde but the hair was very over processed due to over lap of the coloring had no shine and the condition was poor she also wanted to grow her hair but found she could not!  she enjoyed being blonde in the summer but was open to the suggestion of low lights over the winter months

The not growing is caused by breakage as fast as it grows it breaks off through brushing combing ect. we talked through all the issue i explained options and a goal of going longer in between services made sense why had it never been suggested before?

So we started on this new journey together our Goal Long healthy natural looking Blonde hair for my part i asked for a 1 year commitment to see this through here are the results.



 


 

 

 

For those interested in the colors used! Natural level 6

A 20 volume Bleach roots only no overlap,

8N with 20 Volume roots only [I know the 8n has a Blue Violet under tone so using it on a natural level six will expose orange in the hair but the Blue Violet will Neutralize it to a beige Blonde!]

 

Finally a level 6RB beige red, roots to ends but with Demi deposit no lift when going tone on tone or darker lift is not required.

As the season change so the degree or ratio of light to dark can change a constantly evolving colour we only ever coloured from just below the crown forward not a full head this creates natural dimension in the under section depth and makes putting hair up much easier know lines from growing out streaks.

As tip the natural shade of the un-coloured under section is a good guide line for the depth of the low lights if for example a level 6 then choose level 6 low lights they can be warm gold cool but they are in the right shade family.

This formulation does have a very low level of peroxide to activate the colour with out lift.

[in this instance a low Ammonia based colour 0.4%.]

The Short hair shot is the same model -client a few years ago so with patients anything is possible.

 



This big Blonde look as you can see is the same hair as above volume was left over having put the hair up with back combing and hair spray.

No hot irons. rollers. or styling tools! so anything is possible just play!




Two Examples of a short Funky look Blonde with Highlights, over rich base beige base under section demi deposit. [tone on tone] level 6 finished off with a razor cut.using a feather razor and Clawzs:

 

 

Two different looks both Blonde but very different!

Do you need help advise want to spend some time just talking and playing with hair  contact me via my web site for a chat. classes and event can be structured to suit all needs.

Thanks Mike

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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