Tag Archives: thining shears

The art of the creative hair cut.


A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How to do a razor Cut:

When we think Razor cutting i think in most cases ones thought go Directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor a valuable tool indeed, a tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:

Learning how to do a razor cut how to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.

That is not saying don’t try but don’t just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution.

My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.

To get the most out of razor cutting one has to understand weight distribution, hair growth patterns, texture, how to build shape and form. can you do you visualize the shape you want to create in 3D before you start? when finished does it look the way you hoped?

Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on have a firm foundation and technique fully comprehend all aspects of this art you cannot learn this over night it takes years in-fact you will never stop learning.

I was fortunate  to learn from some of the very best icons of today John Frieda, Clifford Stafford. Both top stylist at Leonards in the late 70s early 80’s along with many other top talented hairdressers the training nights the schedule was quite brutal training nights 2 nights a week mandatory  at the time seemed harsh on reflection the very best one could have had Such structure such attention to detail.

I owe them a big thanks

{over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!}

Maybe you don’t agree with me that’s great let share  exchange some thoughts?

I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped

with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.

{This was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley and i gave her an amazing Scissor hair cut}

to this day I still get that buzz when it just works!

So the claw’s or finger razors:                         

I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape.

They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion.

Maybe I’m getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.

their are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor.

A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit.

My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?}  you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this!  cool ha.

The razor i use the most is feather razor:

I use Kashio Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair. { it is by choice the tool of my trade}

It is widely though that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.

What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.

Once you get to this level of understanding there is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting. Understanding the way hair falls the angles required to create shape, weight distribution movement texture all things to learn and consider techniques to challenge your self with. The above Diagram shows the different angles the sections remembering you cannot cut a strait line on a curved suface!

I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director  for L’anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i  did and have never looked back.

I became a platform artist working for L’anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting.

In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece. Imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut. Well that story was needed because i have a jade crystal razor blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:

Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.

When it comes to style creating that new look have fun

Challenge your self push the envelope

Get new skills invest in your self go on course.

learn new techniques watch others share idea’s we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!

I have posted this article with pictures this can also be found

via my web page below. you can also find a

link for the Claws razor on this blog

Mike B2MR


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