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Hair colouring: Lift, shade, deposit and tone:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following on from previous postings on.the following topic’s:

The colour wheel .The law of color as it relates to hair colouring. The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.

It’s now time to look developers lift tone deposit and how they work:

                permanent colour requires cream colour 20 vol

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

The Colour it’s self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi    application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift. It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} so to bring balance to a correct level 7 we would look for a shade with a blue pigmentation or tone.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify:

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex. The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours:

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level. We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.Problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue]. Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine. Wrong formulation. Excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.Wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

                  low vol developer ideal for colour balancing

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally: Herbal or Organic Colour: These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative. Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline. Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour. We are now flooded with adds marketing HERBAL, NATURAL, ORGANIC, Ammonia free products without being given any idea of what the replacement chemistry might be.How it works or what it does. Why don’t we ask questions? seek answers? Why are we so trusting? This colour chemistry revolution is already in home colour hair kits.They promote safety healthy hair. Quick fix ammonia free colour. Is this really professional? The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA: As engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

Some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly.The MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

My hope is that some find this useful and that it makes you question. What your use and why! Is it really so natural organic and healthy!!!!!!

Mike B2MR


 

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Hair colour wrong choice bad result !


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges.

It’s a never ending issue for so many women. What hair colour to have.Then should you pay for a salon professional or go cheap do it at home? . I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange. There is so much to colouring ones hair stylists and technicians train for years and never stop learning as new products come to market.

How much harder for the consumer who wants to for many reasons go the do it at home route! I was in the local chemist /drug store the other day.I watched a young lady looking at row of colour she picked up a box held it up to her head and decided that would do!!! walked away box in hand how she possible know they out come of her choice!!

                                          let’s talk colour

Below is the question that arose from a topic i posted and my reply this is typical of so many issues it’s why i put so much into putting useful material together.

Text from Initial article:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair, Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way If two products mixed together still using peroxide so permanent.

                                               over processed dull lifeless

Reply:

Wow, thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth in to account. Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue. Roots that have never been coloured mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. So different formulation required,on eto lift and depsoit one just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade  suggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

every thing is possible if in doubt seek professional help even if it’s only a consultation to best find out your options!

                                              Healthy natural looking colour

hope this helps you. both the client consumer and also the stylists to think and understand the issues and what motivates someone to have to resort to none professional colour? For the stylist the challenge is to win the client back for the client it’s to have an open mind .Remember you get what you pay for!!! in both hair colour and in life!

Mike B2MR

Thanks 🙂
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/

 

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violet/blue pastel in hair powder bleach.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion of pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec’s on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust ‘ie’ Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don’t breath it in! health and safety at it’s best.It’s designed not to smell . It’s designed to appeal and suggest it’s gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair’s natural pigment.

All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it’s various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process.

Some bleaches even have

Examples:

mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs.


Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. 

Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it’s role !!!!! 

Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions.

Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Be aware that when searching product information a great deal comes up but some of it is very poor information an din some cases could cause unwanted issues.

Mike B2MR

 

For toning information see  http://back2myroots.co.uk/2011/10/10/violet-shade-or-tone-in-hair-colour/

 
Comments Off on violet/blue pastel in hair powder bleach.

Posted by on October 12, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Home hair colour. Facts information advsie:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

HOME HAIR COLOUR

                                              EXPOSED – UNPLUGGED!

I have decided to post this Article my hope to cover all topic’s

                                                                                                                                                                                             Challenges:

One of the biggest dangers that the home consumer face when heading down to the chemist or supermarket for that perfect shade of hair colour is impulsiveness yes the powers of advertising.

Celebrities, models, fashion magazines, marketing, advertising gurus have heavily promoted the idea that if you change your hair colour.You can instantly transform your life making you look and feel better.

While that concept may potentially be true in some cases .Any home hair colouring projects undertaken in haste could result in months of growing out regrets not to mention in some cases long lasting damage

Is it possible to create very successful looks from a home hair colour tones and hues with reasonable success?  Although more complicated coloring projects should be outsourced to a professional colour technician,

With some careful planning. A list of realistic expectations with a little patience and knowledge, new shades of blonde, radiant red and chocolate brown can all be possible.

As can the funky bright fashion shades the key is as much as possible not to over process your hair with over bleaching, take the time to consider the colours you want and your expectation not just short term!

Un-Tangling the world of Home Hair Colouring:

The following tips and advise will hopefully help you navigate through a vast array of hair colours with ravishing results:

                                 over processed home hair colouring above

Before Shot.

Plan your hair color strategy well. 

Prospective home hairdressers carefully evaluate your colour goals before they even consider making a product purchase maybe have a consultation with a professional colour technician.

Every one experimenting with home hair colour especially newbies should study all of the current hair colour formula options. ask advice seek information.

Home hair color products fall into the following ranges:

 Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia.  Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing colour. this includes the bright high fashion shades. some of these colours can build up of they can some times result in staining that can stay behind as colour washes out especially on porous hair.

Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos.  Coats outside of the cuticle and sometimes deeper deposit can be created depending on the ph of the product opening the cuticle layer.  Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia.  May be more permanent in some situations.

Continued use can result in pigment build up/staining especially on very porous hair sometimes have alkaline base to open cuticle this can create build up and staining.

Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos.  Deposits colour between cuticle and cortex. normally contain low level of peroxide and/or ammonia. or something that does the same job change the Ph open the cuticle to enable deposit.

Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex. Contains peroxide and ammonia.  or something else to deliver the colour molecule [eg MEA} Colour lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is recolored.

Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia. volume of peroxide dictates lift  timing essential.

                                            Below make over shot from above 

The colour was done with Highlights and panels using only Demi formulation tore pigment hair!

Double Process Colour – Cuticle is first opened and hair is lightened 4-6 levels with peroxide, ammonia and bleach.  New colour is then deposited via a toner into the cortex through the cuticle. some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. explanation also applies to the high fashion bright colours.

While Temporary, Semi and Demi- Permanent hues are generally considered safe it is fair to point out there are always exceptions to every hair rule, For example in some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. What does this mean exactly?

That if you apply a temporary colour to strands that are damaged and thus porous or more absorbent than normal the colour will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain.  Thus repeated attempts to wash out the colour will be ineffective. Again this explanation is true of the bright fashion shades. Build up and staining can create issues when trying to switch into new colours!

 Note:  If you are unsure how your  hair will adopt to hair colour, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair colour kits or skip the home colour exercise and contact a professional colourist. or you can at a stretch take a small sample strand from the nape area and apply some colour a strand test.

If you have a good working relationship with your stylist, consider discussing your home hair color plans in advance with them.  
Many hairdressers will be supportive of your goals if you are honest with them.

As stylists we should be professional if in this situation and give good sound advise it will come back to you in positive ways.

 Skin Tone, eye colour, Features, Age:

After you have decided on the right colour process, evaluate the best shade for your age, skin tones and other facial features. It is important that you also take into consideration your lifestyle and how much maintenance you are able to handle to keep your colour fresh and root free.

 Things to consider tips to follow:

Keep in mind that hair colour can lift and lighten, match existing colours and brighten or provide depth through darker, richer hues.

Focus on colors that are soft, natural and classy.  Consider choosing shades that will slightly lighten, brighten or deepen your current  tone.

Select a shade that blends well with your current hair colour that is no more than a maximum of two shades lighter or darker than your own.  It is important to stay in close colour range to avoid a stark color demarcation line.

Consider your age when selecting colours.  Select products and colours that are designed for your age group.  


Keep in mind that colors marketed to much younger consumers are not designed to handle Grey and may be too bright for your skin and eye tones.

Remember that after certain ages skin may take on a slight yellow tint.  Soften this look with shades that have a golden base

If you wish to cover Grey, be sure to buy a product that is specifically formulated to deal with the  Grey issue.

Some of the darker shades may intensify wrinkles or other aging signs.  To instantly peel off some years, go one or two shades lighter

Consider buying an extra hair color kit in case of unforeseen problems or if your hair is extremely long or thick you may wish to use two kits to guarantee complete coverage.

With the bright Colour fashion shades you are normally looking for shock value not something subtle having said this the rules still apply some colours will look better on you than others.

                         Above extension pieces added and pre dyed sculptured with strong gel.

                                       Pic Avantgarde artistic Team  Vancouver Canada

The steps to Success!

Guide lines advice:

Once you have selected the hair color product and hue for you, complete the following steps:

Check the expiration date while still at the store to make sure the product is still viable.

                                                  Below before shot over processed hair:

                                                                                        

Once home, immediately examine all the contents in the box.  make sure you have everything stated on the packaging Read the instructions carefully. If anything missing, immediately return the product to where it was purchased.

As always I would suggest a skin patch test at least 48 hours before you colour.

Although you may have used hair colour products in the past, it is very important to do a patch test to protect against an unexpected allergic reaction.  products can change formulation change!
Even if you have been colouring for years, allergies can develop out of the blue and cause serious health risks if not treated immediately.

Do a strand test at least 24 hours before you take the final colour step. Although this process postpones the coloring tasks, it is important to get a good preview of how your hair will look with the selected colour. If you don’t like the results,you can abandon  the project before applying the product to your entire head. Better safe than sorry when it comes to living with unexpected colour results.

Assemble your hair colour tool kit. Gather together a plastic pick or comb, timer, an old shirt and two dark towels that you don’t mind staining. Consider adding a protective covering for the floor since some hair colors can splatter and be messy.

Make sure you have a good pair of rubber gloves. most kit supply gloves but of poor quality may not fit as well as desired also when getting gloves check out if you want latex or not!

If you plan on repeat colouring, a box of disposable good  quality gloves is a sound investment. staining can be an issue barrier cream on  hand is a good idea. some products supply application bottles but a bowl and brush give very good coverage,

                                        { Above make over hair look rich natural happy!}

Applying The Colour:

Once you are ready to actually apply the colour consider the following tips:

It is best to apply colour to hair that has not been washed for at least 24-48 hours to take advantage of the buildup of natural hair oils. these help to protect your scalp.


 If a lot of styling products are used on a regular basis, consider using a shampoo with a clarifying shampoo at least one week before using home hair colour, this will help remove any excess products layered onto the cuticle. do not use clarifying shampoo as a regular product it will lighten and fade you colour!

Pick a time when you are relaxed and will not be disturbed. Once you mix the colour, use it right away. Play some soothing or fun music that helps you stay focused on the task at hand.

Before you start, re read the instructions from beginning to end.  Make sure that you have everything required in the kit.

Follow all the instructions completely! in the order in which they are suggested.

Dispose of any leftover colour as soon as you are finished.{safely}  Once the colours have been mixed, any unused amounts should not be reused at a later date.

To avoid forehead or hairline stains, apply a light layer of Vaseline or similar product right below where the colour will be applied to contain drips or stains.  If you do see drips, wipe them up immediately with an old wet washcloth.

You start applying colour at the back of your head and work forward to make sure that the product is applied evenly and does not smear”.  Tip bad stains on skin can indicate that the ph of the colour in high [skin has a Ph 7 so bad stains suggest the colour must be very high Ph ]  tip bad stains windex on cotton wool,

Jaw clamps or salon clips are not usually provided.  If you feel you need to clip off sections that are newly coloured or hair that is waiting to be colored, invest in some metal clips to help colour in a more organized process.

First timers:

If you’ve never coloured before, carefully apply product from roots to the ends. If you have Virgin hair i would suggest applying colour to the mid lengths and ends first roots last they will lift and take the colour the quickest! if in doubt seek professional advise.

For previously coloured hair, be careful to only apply colour to new hair growth. It is important not to overlap colour be patient to allow the full development time watching the colour develop in a mirror from time to time.  It is impossible to know what the results are until the process has finished and the hair is washed and dried.know that you are changing colour and it will go through different stages as the colour develops.

If this is your first time coloring at home or you are nervous about the results, ask a friend to colour sit with you in case you miss some spots or are unsure how the colour is developing.

When the colour is finished processing shampoo out as described in the instructions.  Allowing colour to stay on longer than recommended will not achieve better results.  Hair colour is designed to stop processing at a set point and no matter how long you leave it in your hair, it will not alter the fact that the processing has finished.

If toning it will carry on depositing on porous or bleached hair if left on for prolonged period.

When to seek professional advise Hair colour:

If considering home hair colour and you fit into one of the following groups:

This type of colour change can be very tricky and  maybe a good time for consultation and  advice of a professional to be fully aware of all of your options an choices.

If you are going from Blonde / Darker or very Dark to light Blonde

If your tresses tend to pick up lots of reds or other unwanted tones.

Your hair has been chemically treated (straightened, waved) in the last 30 days.

You desire a complicated technique such as block or strap colours or multi-dimensional highlights and low-lights.

You have previously experienced allergic reactions to hair colour products.

After you have successfully walked through all the steps and have achieved the new color of your dreams, consider the fact that proper post-maintenance will help keep your strands soft and extend the life of the colour.

thanks Mike B2MR

                                      http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Understanding hair colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

lets talk colour
lets talk colour.

 

Hair Colour pigment lift deposit

 

The Relationship between. Natural hair colour, Hydrogen peroxide, and Permanent colour is a complex one.

 

This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour, their are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost the consultation, a time to gain as much information and history as possible, a time for some honest and frank questions.

Before we can consider away forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of this head, assess amount of Grey if any, discuss goals and targets .Are they realistic? Are they achievable?

It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

 

Permanent colour. This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.

 

The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results.

We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

 

So what makes it challenging

 

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

 

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

 

Natural level shade chart

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

 

 

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

 

This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.

 

10 volume or 3% Peroxide:

In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

 

 

key tool colour wheel

Note:

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

10=yellow

9=yellow orange

8= orange

7=red orange

6= Red

 

 

 

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

 

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

 

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

 

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

 

shade tone chart

 

 

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system,

Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

 

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

colour pigment guide

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

 

 

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

 

 

Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

 

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

 

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

 

FACT: Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction, with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

 

 

colour shade tone

 

Natures Colour is around us all the time we just have to take the time to take it in!

 

 

 

Take the time to understand and trust the colour wheel, make choices and decision based on. skill, knowledge, not on guess work and ego.

Note:  Not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

 

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Highlights using highlift Colour:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Low Lights: The  most natural from of High- Low Lights:

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind.

Those tones shades that natural lightening of the hair pigment create. those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that few shades of lift for a natural look they can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift.

A Different approach:

Consider this a natural hair level 1, 2, 3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair}

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process.

{We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind, we need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose.

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history  this plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? if all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter!

Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

{ some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit, that you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range       DOES THE PRODUCT

have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process}

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear with some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade. but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free so any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment.

So given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from

High lift blonde what can we expect?

Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking: Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base.

Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success.

You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.

Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

have fun let me know how you get on! Mike B2MR

 

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