Tag Archives: tone deposit

Blonde hair Winter management.

Natural looking Highlights

                              Blonde winter Management:


Women and indeed some men have a love affair with being Blonde that Healthy, Natural, Sexy.

Trying to recapture that healthy sun kissed look once summer has ended can be difficult some times a disaster but done well following some advise and guide lines can help avoid mistakes.

In these challenging economic times some clients resort to home hair colour always looks so amazing in the commercial the reality is that one has to decide on so many factors when choosing a hair colour and blondes can be very challenging.

The hardest part is choosing the right product and shade so you get the desired lift shade or tone

Working with the over the counter colour creates many issues for you. The shade fades into either a nice shade of yellow or brassy mess with an orange hue or a nice green tinge.The condition can feel compromised.

In so many cases Highlights and other techniques start off a boost to enhance a natural look but over time  it’s very easy to get to that point of needing the roots re touched every 6 weeks more so after a summer of colouring and the ravages from the sun for a more natural blonde look it’s time for some low lights the introduction of some tone and texture to those blonde locks!

More so as we enter into the autumn and winter months less tan less sun shine the darker those roots look.  Time to introduce some low lights Tone on tone dimensional shades to add depth and shine and reduce those roots or that regrowth!

Lets be honest here! this issue of going overly blonde is caused by both client and stylist the client wants  to be that little bit blonder a pick me up, we as stylist thinks hey fine at the end of the day it’s another colour job bigger bill higher commission trust me i have been their I don’t write this from some place of Judgment just fact and experience.

I am going to post a few different shots in the blog and talk about them for me being successful is of course being busy having good client retention and getting recommendations new clients. over the years i have learned that being honest with clients setting targets goals works really well it earns respect trust and you keep your clients.

It is my firm Belief that good highlights can last 3 months sometimes longer is this bad for business? well  consider this a good job that last longer gets you new recommended clients keeps you busy and yet you are not over colouring its working with the client its working with the base colour think of the head and hair as your canvas remember your the artist.

                        This is a 4 month re growth.needs some help but still looks sort of ok!

This client when i first started working with her was colouring her hair with Highlights every six weeks when first done looked nice but roots started showing within weeks the highlights were done with just Bleach/ decolourizer yes makes Blonde but the hair was very over processed due to over lap of the coloring had no shine and the condition was poor she also wanted to grow her hair but found she could not!  she enjoyed being blonde in the summer but was open to the suggestion of low lights over the winter months

The not growing is caused by breakage as fast as it grows it breaks off through brushing combing ect. we talked through all the issue i explained options and a goal of going longer in between services made sense why had it never been suggested before? 

So we started on this new journey together our Goal Long healthy natural looking Blonde hair for my part i asked for a 1 year commitment to see this through here are the results. 

For those interested in the colors used! Natural level 6

A 20 volume Bleach roots only no overlap,

8N with 20 Volume roots only [I know the 8n has a Blue Violet under tone so using it on a natural level six will expose orange in the hair but the Blue Violet will Neutralize it to a beige Blonde!]

Finally a level 6RB beige red, roots to ends but with Demi deposit no lift when going tone on tone or darker lift is not required.

As the season change so the degree or ratio of light to dark can change a constantly evolving colour we only ever coloured from just below the crown forward not a full head this creates natural dimension in the under section depth and makes putting hair up much easier know lines from growing out streaks.

As tip the natural shade of the un-coloured under section is a good guide line for the depth of the low lights if for example a level 6 then choose level 6 low lights they can be warm gold cool but they are in the right shade family.

This formulation does have a very low level of peroxide to activate the colour with out lift. [in this instance a low Ammonia based colour 0.4%.]


Blonde hair colour reviews

As my re-search into hair colour blogs and new places to read reviews find helpful information I’m amazed at the content the misinformation or lack of content.

I really enjoy the sights that allow you post comments and share thoughts ones that don’t edit you response.

Below are some highlights from an article its ok but it rather lacking in informative content it does not give any real information it strokes the surface but then leaves you hanging lets take a look.

I will put the article in question in small bold print!

Good Colours to Dye Blonde hair:

Choosing a flattering shade or colour depends on a couple of different factors ideally you want to choose a shade that is flattering to your skin tone and eye colour. so the colour that is best for one may not be right for another. even if they both have blonde hair, luckily there are ways to decide on a colour to get the best possible results, read on to tips to help you choose.

So far so good sounds interesting agree on considering skin tone eye colour they contribute to how a colour looks. How it shows off the  the final look.


Tags: , , , , ,

Using a Professional colour chart.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’:

Another look at the international hair colour chart .A topic worth reposting form time to time in the hopes that many get to read and understand How it works. Why it such a useful tool to have and trust.

The international colour chart is a system used to both asses the natural level of a clients hair and also provide many choices of colour shade and tone. Depending on ones target colour.

Why is all this so key? lets consider colour families shade and tone:

This is how we can start to apply this to our shade chart and so have an understanding of the basic’s of hair colouring.

I have included different versions of the colour wheel because it is my experience that we all digest or process information in different ways.

This diagram shows the break out of primary colours in the center working out through secondary into tertiary.

Quarternary colours are all the other combination’s of colour, including all the colours the eye can see

So onto the Eight colour families: and how they then relate to out colour chart.  We have what is know as an international colour code system. The number denotes lightness and darkness. The letter denotes shade and tone. Using the knowledge we have gained from the colour wheel, we are ready to move forward.

The N series is normally calibrated to control the warmth exposed at any given level working with up to 2 levels of lift. An example of this would be a natural level 6 would have enough Blue/Green to control the Red orange exposed in the under pigment at that level. [colour wheel] think opposite.

Note the N series is neutral a perfect blend of the primary colours at any given level 1-10.


Now we are starting to see how these colour rules/laws work in conjunction with our shade chart.

Lets look for example at Nc natural copper

This would sit on a colour wheel around level 7

It is a perfect balance at that level of our primary colours with secondary colours

red+yellow= orange

So NC or 7NC natural level 7 with copper.

At a level 7 as soon as you lift the hair the first pigment exposed will always be warm and always have an orange undertone.

Finally the last piece of the puzzle.

level refers to how dark or light the shade of hair.

These shades are divided into levels. note were level 7 sits!


Depth                                                Tone

*1 blue black  = blue base               /0 natural

*2 black                                           /1ash

*3 dark brown =violet base             /2 cool ash

*4 medium brown =red violet base /3 honey gold

*5 light brown =red                         /4 red               *6 dark blonde =red orange             / 5 purple         *7 medium blonde =orange             /6 violet

*8 light blonde =yellow orange       /7 brunette

*9 clear blonde = yellow                  /8 pearl ash

*10 extra light blonde = pale yellow / 9 soft ash

Therefore a colour which has a number of 6/1is the depth of dark blonde with ash tones, so it would be a dark ash blonde.

Lets take a look at our N series on our scale of 1 to 10 being as suggested Black 10 being the lightest

the most natural light level is a 9.


examples of the N series

Once we understand the N series we can  the different colour families from. Ash to Gold to Copper and Reds.

As we look at the shade chart we can see the families laid out N for Natural A for ash and so on  so for example a level 6 with Ash would be 6A or 6.1  level 9 with Ash would be 9.I or 9.1 on this bases a Copper Chat level 6 would be  6C or  6. 04 if it was a Copper Red at our level 6 it would be 6CR or 6.45 the first letter or number is always the lead or strongest pigment.

finally the more high fashion shades .the high lift Blonde tones and cool Violet tones in this instance lets look at V shades lesschoice because asthe shade gets lighter it would become to pink .

Less shade choice only at levels 4 and 5 or 5.07 on the number system.

in closing the colour chart is read down the side scale for shade dark to light across the top for tone most from Ash to violet  lead by  either A.G .C R V .

I hope this shaed a little light on the shade chat any question please post i willl as always respond.

Mike B2MR


Tags: , , , ,

%d bloggers like this: